After two weekends at the drags, the stock clutches finally let go. The steels are black, the fibers are nearly smooth, and there is black dust everywhere. I will be drag racing almost every weekend and also highway riding. I'm looking for a few recommended clutch brands that you guys have tried and liked.

A good friend of mine put brand new APE Trac King clutches in his R1 and got 4 passes out of them. What is yall's opinion on those? Thanks in advance guys :)

Welcome BA, and right out the gate, do not take offense to this.

1. Let me introduce you to, 'The Hand' as I call him. He runs stock OE parts, flips them either way, [we'll get back to that] but here's the, "I could only get 4 passes out of any clutch set from any company"... Buzz? You need left and right hand brain rethink!
a. Explain how you leave.
b. Every rpm sitting there not moving.
c. To every last move you let that left lever out.

2. Buy header gaskets. Buy sump gaskets [or wipe and reuse] same goes with stacking the pack rings be it in a pinch or your wallet is pinchy.
3. Gray matter still floats as you eat that pack, even though it cakes down at the sump pan later on.
4. Every time you wipe that pack, drop the sump and clean the pan.
5. I do not let material float, slice my rings and walls I add up the scuff lines and that's compression gap or loss of air being compressed where needed... Do the work, racer!
6. I bet you 100's of passes on the OE against what others suggest, go ask 'the hand' what he uses?
7. My steels come out as I remove the pressure plate, I see a cut side to the steels.
8. I install my steel cuts facing the pressure plate I follow the pressure plate, be it inside or the outside> is the pressure plate.
9. I find my friction plate cut and round sides and face all my flats toward the pressure plate or [all] the cuts in this bike face me as I assemble the pack.
10. I buy the fattest friction as that stack number means full material so I have more to burn down...
11. ... But in your case... I'd be flushing that case, go find an oil sponsor or buy oil in bulk: go flush at least once after the rebuild so gray matter begins to settle in the sump for next time.
12. Dump the sump or the powder is going to etch every last moving part when it floatsigned,

NOLTT

* Last updated by: Hub on 10/12/2014 @ 8:49 AM *

Scroll Down, I run the 2 Stage Lock Up From MTC Click Here

I have used Barnett clutches on many of my bikes and never a problem. I had a 320hp turbo FJ1200 and the Barnett I put in that bike held up very well. There are a lot of different good clutches available but Barnett is the one I personally have had the most experience with.

If Barnett has a tech line, ask how you break-in certain clutch material? They use a range of friction compounds and some need to be heat-sunk or some type of cooling off procedure.

Installed a certain compound and I'm thinking it was a green friction material? The guy said to watch out about some heat problem with these and they need to be broken in a certain way. Rider goes out comes back and says things are fine. I think he got a good start first round? Second round the clutch crept at the starting grid and almost jumped the start.

So with that kind of break-in with a certain compound, you can understand the 'creep' the Barnett is notorious for. Back to the user, not the product having an issue.