I want to wrap it from the head until it connects with the mufflers, because the exhaust gas insulation inside the collector will increase exhaust obstruction under the engine. Which of the railways can result in more powerful heating of the oil pan. I already have a bad clutch on a warm engine. I will also modify the power supply for the fans so that the keys can work.
You will wrap from the engine to the muffler. The wrap dissipates heat more readily than a bare pipe does but the wrap will increase the outer diameter of the pipe. This will cause heat to dissipate closer to the oil pan which might counteract the heat reduction you are seeking to some degree.
Not sure about that last line. You want to modify the fan wiring so that the fans can operate with the key turned OFF? That will help only a very tiny amount IMHO. The fans cool the radiator. If the engine is OFF, the coolant does not circulate therefore you only cool the radiator and not the engine with the engine OFF and the fans running. Most people who flash ECUs make the fans come on at a lower engine coolant temp and that seems to help.
In general, I have the impression that a lot needs to be improved in this model after the factory.
If you are comparing to a liter bike, maybe. Compared to the busa, it is very similar. The busa gives off a lot of heat to but I must say, a lot less than the ZX-14. Mind you, I only have owned a Gen 1 ZX-14 and it probably is a little hotter than the Gen 2.
This winter, I improved the body so far - everything was assembled as if, unmatched, unbalanced - a pity of words.
Of course, I reported my reservations on the website. They said "it's supposed to be" - a bunch of lazy and non-professionals, they should repair tractors.
The bike came to you with body panels installed improperly? The 14 does have some very complicated body panels, doesn't it? The Hayabusa is even worse! You get used to it after about 10 times taking the fairings off.
Write if your clutch works differently on a warm and cold engine - factory oil, then semi-synthetic and full synthetic - all the same badly. Mileage 8000km year 2018
That is only 5000 miles! Was the bike drag raced? The clutch in these bikes is superb. I have had no problems with clutch operation while using Kawasaki conventional oil. I have had no problems using Rotella synthetic 5W-40. The clutch works fine with a hot engine or cold. Of course, the shift quality becomes poor after about 2500 miles but then I just change the oil. A high quality synthetic (which Rotella really is not) should last longer than 2500 but I would rather just get fresh oil in there so I change at 2500. The only time I have ever had an issue with my clutch was when I installed an aftermarket clutch lever and the pusher rod that goes into the clutch master cylinder was not fit properly. The clutch slipped at high rpm. It sounded like the tire was spinning but it was the clutch not holding. I put the OEM lever back on and the clutch has been fine ever since. I have almost 50,000 miles on that clutch and the fiber plates are ready to be replaced. They are still holding even as worn as they are.
If your clutch is slipping, you have worn fiber plates or the clutch lever is installed improperly. Maybe it is the the clutch itself was reassembled incorrectly. If it is just the bike going CLUNK into 1st gear from Neutral, they all do that especially when the engine is cool. I have always had a little feel of roughness shifting from 2nd to third under hard load. It's not perfect but the shifting on my 14 is pretty good. It's a big engine.
* Last updated by: Rook on 2/29/2020 @ 5:06 PM *
08 MIDNIGHT SAPPHIRE BLUE ZX-14 Now Deceased, will be resurected
2024 ZX-14R bran friggin NEW!