.
" There are a lot of myths about engines...
easy break-in is one of the biggest "

KNOWLEDGE = POWER !!

Tecleo aquí para la versión
Español !!

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Warning:
This is a very controversial topic !!

I wrote "Break-In Secrets" after successfully applying this method
to approximately 300 new engines, all without any problems whatsoever.

Links to this article now appear on hundreds of motorsports discussion forums from all over the world. The reason is that over time, large numbers of people have done a direct comparison between my method and the owner's manual method, and the news of their success is spreading rapidly.

The results are always the same... a dramatic increase in power at all RPMs. In addition, many professional mechanics have disassembled engines that have used this method, to find that the condition of the engine is much better than when the owner's manual break-in method has been used.

The thing that makes this page so controversial is that there have been many other break-in articles
written in the past which will contradict what has been written here.

Several factors make the older information on break-in obsolete.

The biggest factor is that engine manufacturers now use a much finer honing pattern in the cylinders than they once did. This in turn changes the break-in requirements, because as you're about to learn, the window of opportunity for achieving an exceptional ring seal is much smaller with
newer engines than it was with the older "rough honed" engines.

In addition, there is a lot less heat build up in the cylinders from ring friction
due to the finer honing pattern used in modern engines.

The other factors that have changed are the vastly improved metal casting and machining
technologies which are now used. This means that the "wearing in" of the new parts
involves significantly less friction and actual wear than it did in the distant past.

With that in mind ...

Welcome to one of the most controversial motorsports pages on the internet !!

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How To break in Your Engine For
More Power & Less Wear !

One of the most critical parts of the engine building process is the break in !!
No matter how well an engine is assembled, it's final power output is all up to you !!

Although the examples shown here are motorcycle engines,
these principles apply to all 4 stroke engines:

Street or Race Motorcycles, Cars, Snowmobiles, Airplanes & yes ...
even Lawn Mowers !!
( regardless of brand, cooling type, or number of cylinders. )

These same break in techniques apply to both steel cylinders and Nikasil, as well as the ceramic
composite cylinders that Yamaha uses in it's motorcycles and snowmobiles.

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What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

Why ??
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.

How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??

From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.

The Problem With "Easy break in" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!

If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

Fortunately, most new sportbike owners can't resist the urge to "open it up" once or twice,
which is why more engines don't have this problem !!

An additional factor that you may not have realized, is that the person at the dealership who set up your bike probably blasted your brand new bike pretty hard on the "test run". So, without realizing it, that adrenaline crazed set - up mechanic actually did you a huge favor !!

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Here's How To Do It:
There are 3 ways you can break in an engine:

1) on a dyno
2) on the street, or off road (Motocross or Snowmobile.)
3) on the racetrack

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
On a Dyno:
Warm the engine up
completely !!

Then, using 4th gear:

Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 60% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 80% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from
30% - 100% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes
Go For It !!
Frequently asked Question:

What's a dyno ??

A dyno is a machine in which the bike is strapped on and power is measured.

It can also be used to break in an engine.

NOTE: If you use a dyno with a brake, it's critical during break - in that you allow the engine to decelerate fully on it's own. (Don't use the dyno brake.) The engine vacuum created during closed throttle deceleration sucks the excess oil and metal off the cylinder walls.

The point of this is to remove the very small (micro) particles of ring and cylinder material which are part of the normal wear during this process. During deceleration, the particles suspended in the oil blow out the exhaust, rather than accumulating in the ring grooves between
the piston and rings. This keeps the rings from wearing too much.

You'll notice that at first the engine "smokes" on decel, this is normal, as the rings haven't sealed yet. When you're doing it right, you'll notice that the smoke goes away after about 7-8 runs.

Important Note:
Many readers have e-mailed to ask about the cool down, and if it
means "heat cycling" the engine.

No, the above "cool down" instructions only apply if you are using a dyno machine to break in your engine. The reason for cool down on a dyno has nothing to do with
"Heat Cycles" !!!

Cool Down on a dyno is important since the cooling fans used at most dyno facilities are too small to equal the amount of air coming into the radiator at actual riding speeds. On a dyno, the water temperature will become high enough to cause it to boil out of the radiator after
about 4 dyno runs. This will happen to a brand new engine just as it will
happen to a very old engine.

(Always allow the engine to cool down after 3 runs whenever you use a dyno.)

If you're breaking your engine in on the street or racetrack, the high speed incoming air will keep the engine temperature in the normal range.
(In other words, you don't have to stop by the side of the road to let your bike cool down.)

What about "heat cycling" the engine ??
There is no need to "heat cycle" a new engine. The term "heat cycle" comes from the idea that the new engine components are being "heat treated" as the engine is run. Heat treating the metal parts is a very different process, and it's already done at the factory before the engines are assembled. The temperatures required for heat treating are much higher than an engine will ever reach during operation.

The idea of breaking the engine in using "heat cycles" is a myth that came from the misunderstanding of the concept of "heat treating".

On the Street:
Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.

Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want
anyone to get hit from behind !!

The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more
and run it through the gears !

Be Safe On The Street !
Watch your speed ! When you're not used to the handling of a new vehicle, you should accelerate only on the straightaways, then slow down extra early for the turns. Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process.

On the Racetrack:
Warm the engine up completely:
Do one easy lap to warm up your tires. Pit, turn off the bike & check for leaks or
any safety problems. Take a normal 15 minute practice session
and check the water temperature occasionally. The racetrack is the perfect environment to break in an engine !! The combination of acceleration and deceleration is just the ticket for sealing the rings.
Go For It !!


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Yeah - But ...
the owner's manual says to break it in easy ...

Notice that this technique isn't "beating" on the engine, but rather taking a purposeful, methodical approach to sealing the rings. The logic to this method is sound. However, some will have a hard time with this approach, since it seems to "go against the grain".

The argument for an easy break-in is usually: "that's what the manual says" ....

Or more specifically: "there are tight parts in the engine and you might do damage or even seize it if you run it hard."

Consider this:
Due to the vastly improved metal casting and machining technologies which are now used, tight parts in new engines are not normal. A manufacturing mistake causing a tight clearance is an extremely rare occurrence these days. But, if there is something wrong with the engine clearances from the factory, no amount of gentle running will fix the problem.

The real reason ???
So why do all the owner's manuals say to take it easy for the first
thousand miles ???

This is a good question ...

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Q: What is the most common cause of engine problems ???
A: Failure to:
Warm the engine up completely before running it hard !!!

Q: What is the second most common cause of engine problems ???
A: An easy break in !!!

Because, when the rings don't seal well, the blow-by gasses contaminate the oil with acids and other harmful combustion by-products !!

Ironically, an "easy break in" is not at all what it seems. By trying to "protect" the engine, the exact opposite happens, as leaky rings continue to contaminate your engine oil for the rest of the life of your engine !!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What about running it in the garage ???

Maybe you have a new snowmobile and it's not quite winter yet, or a new bike and it's snowing...

The temptation to fire up a new vehicle in the garage just to "hear"
the new engine run can be very strong.

This is the worst thing for a new engine, in fact, my advice is:
don't even start it up until you're ready to warm it up for the first ride.

The reason is that brand-new rings don't seat all the way around the 360 degrees of their circumference. The gas pressure from hard acceleration forces the rings to contact the cylinder around their entire circumference, which is the only way the rings can properly wear into the exact shape of the cylinder to seal the combustion pressure.

Now, imagine if the engine is run in the garage. There is no load on the engine, so the rings are just going up and down "along for the ride". Only a small portion of their surface is actually contacting the cylinder wall. The ring area that does contact the cylinder wears down the roughness of the honing pattern on the cylinder walls. Once the roughness of the cylinder is gone, the rings stop wearing into the cylinder. If this happens before the entire ring has worn into the cylinder and sealed, you will have a slow engine no matter how hard it gets ridden after that point.

The difference between what happens in an engine running in the garage, versus one being ridden is a hard concept to put into written words, so if I may use the sounds that we all can relate to: it's the difference between "zing-zing-zing" and "bwaaaaaaaaaAAAAAA"

During "zing-zing-zing" the rings don't get loaded for more than a split second, whereas during "bwaaaaaAAAAAA", the engine is in 100% ring sealing mode.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Recent Snowmobile Info:

Yamaha's break-in recommendation for the RX1 has been to idle the engine for 15 minutes.
Some owners found that the heat build up from doing this was so extreme,
that their taillight had begun melting (!!!)

Yamaha has since changed the recommendation to three 5 minute idle periods.

Why would Yamaha recommend a break in method which will prevent the rings
from sealing as well as possible ??

This is a good question ...

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A Picture's Worth A Thousand Words:

The piston on the right was broken in as
per MotoMan's instructions.

After a full season of hard racing:

- Perfect Ring Seal ...
- No Scuffing ...
- Lots of Trophies !!!

These Honda F3 pistons show
the difference.

Although these pistons came out of engines which were raced for a full season, they weren't set-up with any special clearances or other preparation.

These engines were never worked on prior to being raced. They were totally stock as built by Honda.

The only difference was the break in method they used...

The one on the right was broken in as per MotoMan's instructions.

The one on the left was broken in exactly according to the owner's manual. The resulting leaky rings have allowed pressure to "blow by" down into the crankcase on acceleration, and oil to "suck-up" into the combustion chamber on deceleration.
Needless to say, this bike was slow !!

It's up to you:
The loss in power from an easy break-in and the resulting poor ring seal can be
anywhere from 2% - 10% !!

In other words:
The gain in power from using this break-in method can be anywhere from 2% - 10% !!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Update -
Some have felt that the piston which was broken in hard in the above photo is too clean to be true !!
"That piston is impossible, there must be some trick going on."

So, here I present: "The Impossible Piston Museum"

Here are 14 pistons from 14 different bikes, with several manufacturers represented. Some are from streetbikes and some from racebikes.

All of the engines had the correct jetting, the reason some have black carbon deposits is because they were run on "pump gas", which burns dark regardless of the jetting. Whereas the lighter ones were run on oxygenated race fuel, which gives a very light tan to gray color. (Many of the black-carboned pistons were from racebikes.)

Disclaimer:
Absolutely no photo altering or physical cleaning of the pistons is allowed in the museum !!
We run a legit exhibit, and all the artifacts on display are 100% genuine.

Note:
The controversial piston in the above picture is the last one in the middle row,
and it's indicated by the arrows.

You can take a closer look by clicking on the photos to see the full sized versions:

.
.
<<

It looks like there are more than 14 pistons, because the area in the 3 photos overlap.
It's 3 segments of a panorama photo to give you multiple views of this extraordinarily rare collection.

The pistons have been stacked for display purposes only, they aren't going back into engines. Always be super careful when handling pistons, as the aluminum is soft and very easily dented, causing combustion leakage, and friction ... neither of which is good for power.

As in any museum, some of the specimens are better examples than others, but the point is that none have any leakage past the top ring, because they were all broken in by the method described here !
The only impossible thing about these pistons ... is that it's impossible to achieve this result with an easy break-in.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

What about street bikes ???

This piston is from a 650 Honda Hawk. The brown discoloration that extends up into the piston pin bore is burnt oil from the extreme heat leaking past all 3 rings !!

The uneven heat leakage was so bad, that it caused the cylinder to distort and become out of round, causing piston to cylinder scuffing in the tight part of the "oval" cylinder.

When I showed the customer his
pistons, he said:

" I don't understand how that happened, I followed the owner's manual break-in instructions 100% !! "

Why would Honda recommend a break in method which will prevent the
rings from sealing as well as possible ??

This is a good question ...

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q: What's the third most common cause of engine problems ???
A: Not changing the oil soon enough after the engine is first run !!

Change Your Oil Right Away !!
The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc...

Why do the manufacturers recommend waiting until 600 miles to
flush out all the loose metal ???

This is a good question ...

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

3 more words on break- in:
NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!

Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least
2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding / driving.
After that use your favorite brand of oil.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Viewer Questions:

Q: If break- in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles ??

A: Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine,
the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may
not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot
of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.

Q: My bike comes with synthetic oil from the factory, what should I do ??

A: I recommend changing the factory installed synthetic oil back to petroleum for the break-in period.

Q: What about the main and rod bearings, don't they break - in ??

A: Actually, the operation of plain bearings doesn't involve metal to metal contact !! The shiny spots on used
bearings are caused from their contact with the crankshaft journals during start up after the engine has been sitting a while,
and the excess oil has drained off. This is the main reason for not revving up the engine when it's first started.

The subject of plain bearings is one of the most mysterious aspects of engines, and will be covered in a future issue
of Power News. In it, I'll reveal more information that fully explains the non-contact phenomenon.

Q: Why change the oil at 20 miles ?? Doesn't the oil pick up
screen catch the aluminum bits ???

A: It's true that the screen stops the big pieces, but many areas of the engine aren't within the oil filtration system. The oil that is splashed around will circulate metal debris to the lubricated bearing surfaces. For example, transmission gears and their ball bearings are unprotected by the filtration system, and even the cam chain makes a perfect "conveyer belt" to
bring metal debris up into the cylinder head !!

A close examination of a new engine will reveal lots of aluminum deposits on steel parts. This aluminum coats and tightens
up the clearances of the parts, which creates a loss of power. Most of the time I spend "blueprinting"
an engine is actually inspecting every part and "de-aluminizing" them !!

I prefer to remove the oil pan and clean the aluminum bits out of a new engine out that way, but a $20 oil change
is an easy and inexpensive way to flush the initial particles that come loose in the first miles.

Q: What about motorcycle V.S. car oils ???

A: This is a topic all by itself !! It will be covered in a future issue of Power News.

Q: Will this break - in method cause my engine to wear out faster ???

A: No, in fact, a poor ring seal will allow an increase in the by products of combustion to contaminate the oil.
Acid contamination and oil consumption are the 2 reliability problems which are the result of an
"owner's manual" or "magazine tech article" style easy break-in.

By following the instructions on this page, you'll find that your oil is cleaner and the engine will rev quicker.
Plus, you'll have much better torque and power across the power range from the vastly improved ring seal.

Reliability and Power are 100% connected !!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

What are some of the other common myths about engines ??

Here are some popular engine tuning concepts in which the truth is
quite the opposite of what is commonly thought:

- Bigger Ports

- Polishing The Ports

- Ignition Advancers

- Flatslide Carburetors

- Fuel Injection Tuning

- Cam Timing

- Jetting
Intake Porting !!

Smaller Intake Ports Gain 7 % More Power !!
Never Before Seen in Magazines
.
Learn How to Do it Yourself !!

If you've found the break in Secrets article interesting, please sign up for Power News Magazine.

Find out why the manufacturers recommend an easy break in,
and the revealing evidence which provides answers to those good questions
we've all wondered about.

(The questions the manufacturers wish you wouldn't ask ...)

Plus, find out how much more power the readers of this page have gained, as well as
photos and analysis of other engine parts in long term tests of this process.

Whether you're into motorcycles, cars or snowmobiles, Power News Magazine contains
the most provocative engine tech articles in the world ...

... you'll never think about engines in the same way again !!

Over 12,000 Subscribers !!
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http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Where do you want me to start?

Exhaust port needs to be smaller and choke the speed down 7%?
Cam timing means nothing about opening and closing the speed checks and balance is a bunch of weed whacking is like I said, I just pulled up a few weeds is limp my mode load.

Low rpm and that ring is not under as hard a load as WOT did he say?

---

Hub I have been waiting for your post,.....TEE HEEE .. I have broke in my last three bikes this way. But not the 14 simply because I shit my pants trying . To answer your Question where do you want me to start is...... 1-100 . But please make it easy to read . I have saved this article and have been following it to the letter .The only reason I posted it,is because I see alot of guys showing up with new bikes and I thought they might like this article as I did. At the bottom I posted a link. This guy has some good outside the box thinking. Now let me have it but please make it easy for all to read. I have got a cute little sixer that is going to 16,500 in about one hour. I have lowered it and have filter and oil to go in after 20 miles.

Let me pick out what I do not agree with. See, we have everyone like BnB giving comment so you can understand what I just said is repeat BnB.

What I might question is why he did not think out of the box this way? Either way, you will not ruin the bike being you followed the same pattern as if I were to take the next race bike out to break it in on the street. Not with number plates and not tail light hooked up is how long before they tow that thing back if I can show a title written in closed course registration as in not street legal.

Lets try to make this run a few pages so we can lock it up top. Cross the T's and know your 3V's... It is not going to be easy I put you to sleep this way and not the other way.

* Last updated by: Hub on 4/12/2009 @ 1:38 PM *

---

.. I have broke in my last three bikes this way. But not the 14 simply because I shit my pants trying .

Same here x2. The 14 was my first sport bike and the first vehicle I ever tried to do anything fast on/in. Anyone who is like me might as well forget about hitting the rev limiter when they take their first ride. If you feel strongly about this method, let someone experienced who you trust break it in for the first twenty minutes.

I've put over 6000 miles on the 14. I have wondered what would it have been like to do a peak rpm break in. Last week I had it out on Holy Hill Road which is about 3 miles of straight, flat, relatively new paved, asphalt. No traffic, no cops, just miles of farmland. I had it up to 9K rpm in 1st gear openning the throttle slow and smooth. The bike is a forking savage when it gets wound up like that and you are moving fast enough to get a huge ticket anywhere. The imense power of a big bore motor spinning that incredibley fast is way more than I could have stomached on my first ride, not to mention the high speed (didn't look at speedo but I think 9K rpm in first gear is ~80 mph). Even the stock exhaust is screaming violently at that point. That's just 1st gear.

I have no complaints about the power of my bike after a manufacturere's recomended break in. Maybe it is missing a few ponies up top, I don't know - but I have yet to be disapointed. I have it on good authority that bigbore pistons don't fit as tight as smaller engines so ring seating isn't so much of an issue for bigbore engines. Next bike, I'll do a much harder break in and if I ever have the need to rebore the 14, I'll definitely rebreak it as recomended in the article above. Only once have I heard anyone complain that stuff went wrong after a high rpm break in so why not do it and feel secure you are getting all you can out of the motor?

Whenever this topic comes up, someone inevitabley brings up the warranty issue. Anything other than a Kawi recomended brake in will void your warranty. It's been suggested in a few posts I've read that the break in rpms are digitally encoded in the bikes ECU.

Rook

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/12/2009 @ 8:38 PM *

---

I remember someone on the old site put a link up to a "How It's Made" type show on our 14's. In the video they put every bike on a dyno and rev'ed them to red-line through all the gears just before they rolled them out the door.

I've always been a firm believer in break them in as your going to ride them. Never had any problems.

---

so many opinions i just dont know whats right. i am new to this site and new to the zx14, but i have had other bikes. maybe i am breaking my bike in wrong. im just breakin it in as i ride it. i dont mind hittin 11,000. it just happens so freakin fast.

---

1. "In addition, there is a lot less heat build up in the cylinders from ring friction
due to the finer honing pattern used in modern engines." Rings became thinner which brought down the friction. Crosshatch has oil to absorb heat and that is very little. Smooth cylinder honing was done way back in the 1960/70's where there was so much smooth cylinder wall and the rest were any smoother were no improvement or advantage to anything smoother in wall surface. So, a ring could seal as well then as today if not slightly better due to the new bore and finish process to match the thinner ring design.

2. From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible. When I would tear down old 70/80/90's era bikes, I would see the first layer of break-in ring. They used that silver to copper quarter layer to make the rings. You could still see the green on the top or bottom is I forget. But that ring has to buckle under that intense pressure and just wrinkle a little ring seal on the wall. To have a lot of that green material left after thousands of miles shows how much the ring flexes and seals in a twisted way cause but pressure, ring flutter on the build up of pressure and think like that to wonder why all of it is not gone from the ring is how much is break-in he talking about? I sure saw a lot of material left around the rings. Parts of that ring were worn away, other areas still had the finish on it. Show me the same thin ring, it might have the same pattern. I am just guessing as in ring proportion has not changed that warp ride down the wall. It is semi-sealed meaning.
Here is what might be some of the controversy... He is not thinking about that 360° fire off is the exact same bore, same distance covered in stroke, same fuel entry if not sooner to speed up the event following the 360° cycle. Was the power of the fire off at idle the same pressure as WOT speed of the higher RPM's?

For this part of the non-controversy for me is that the same pressure was had on the bike at idle as it was running. I am looking at the air cleaner change and all the filter changed was to speed the air [sooner] into the cylinder chamber. It was the same event, only [a time change] happened which caused less resistance. Here at the fiber pleats being open more so the air is less restricted.

Would you agree that pretty much the carb is going to suck what it needs in proportion to idle? If you ran idle till it stalled where you would have less gas going in, or say more gas going in; would you agree you would have the same amount removed/added at red line also? You are going to have to prove to me there is no loss at higher rpm because the piston has to draw in the same fuel as if the engine was stopped dead and had to suck in fuel all over again as if it was key off> Dead engine [gotta restart me].

I watch air as an ocean wave coming to shore. It just does not jump over the low speed jet and suck the main out only. It had to walk and suck over the low speed first is suck from that tiny intake hole the moment the intake valve leaves the seat. That [air] wave begins to pull from where? The valve to the low to the main to the air cleaner. Or is the controversy from the air cleaner to the main is skip the low is the flow moves in that direction? Does the wave begin from the beach first is move from the beach to the ocean or reverse order?

Ask yourself if electricity jumps over the air or moves through the air as if the air jumps over the low speed jet so as not to pull fuel? You can believe it pulls out of the main only if you like. Electricity finds the fastest path and I think the air sucking out any hole like a wave coming at you fill speed is coming to suck out anything as fast as possible is that valve is going to close at 14.7psi each and every time.

So, ask yourself if at idle the same fuel is in proportion at WOT. There is so much fuel out of the carb as the same out of WOT. FI has no jet(s) to suck fuel(s) from. If you shut off from WOT, what fuel is being sucked out of what main or low speed is just one jet hole on lift? < For every action there is an equal and opposite suck out both jet holes? Make sense?

I wish I could find that photo when I pounded heads with Sonic over at CB1100F. We were going at it with the fuel out of the main at any rpm and there is a bubble of a drop of fuel from the main way before 1/4 throttle is open. There it is you can see the slide position and just measure it out and I started to take the place for a lap it was there to see and they argued with me. That's your spider guy there, Kruz. Go ask spider about that blade he has now. They threw me out of some Honda blade bike site too. I think he is there is find that photo over at the 1100F site if he still hangs there.

I'm going to stop here to see if we are up to his ring pressure theory. We are not out on the street, hooked to a dyno or on a race track. If you want to jump to something quick and do not want to wait, speak up. We have plenty of 4-Strokers here to correct each others steps.

If you want the simple to the complex, you need to stop right here so we are on the same page where it reads above:

1. I should be up to knowing no matter the cylinder close, it is 14.7psi.
2. I should know that the FI has to follow a carb in so many steps.
3. I should be aware of a single pressure, a single fuel fill, a single BTU to make that pressure.
4. Did I need more fuel if I still stayed at 14.7psi on the close is...
5. I should be up to the page is what Hub just tried to explain is bottom line basic 4-Stroke theory.
6. Yes, lets go on.
7. No, WTF did you just say?
8. Well, it is a mute point we go any further you do not see the dare I say....
9. SAY IT!
10. DATA "1Atmo" signal? Dare, I said it!

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Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber

Hub=

Smooth cylinder honing was done way back in the 1960/70's where there was so much smooth cylinder wall and the rest were any smoother were no improvement or advantage to anything smoother in wall surface. So, a ring could seal as well then as today if not slightly better due to the new bore and finish process to match the thinner ring design.

Hub=

I should be aware of a single pressure, a single fuel fill, a single BTU to make that pressure.

What has capture my attention .

One of the most critical parts of the engine building process is the break in !!
No matter how well an engine is assembled, it's final power output is all up to you !!

How To break in Your Engine For
More Power & Less Wear !

What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

Now here is what is unrealistic.

[img][/img]
[img][/img]

How can any one follow this to the letter. In the case of the new ZX6-R . How do you ride for a 500 miles and stay below 4000 Rpm. This bike with it's high(16,500)redline, revs at 5700rpm when traveling at 60mph. So........I guess the bike stays in town??????(OK).Then a 1000 miles at or below 6000 RPM. So now we can go 60mph. I guess what I am saying here I do not believe that a person with their new pride and joy could even attempt to follow the book . They may try.....But won't. Hub whatcha think ? The short answer Run It the way you are going to ride.

* Last updated by: Romans on 4/13/2009 @ 9:38 AM *

Romans,

When I bought my 14 the dealership said "Ride it like you stole it"! ... right outta the door, and I did.

A lot of friends thought when I had it dyno tuned at 100 miles (hard ridden all the way to 100 miles), I was crazy.

JDC, You and I are the same. Even if I realy wanted to follow the rule ...I just Can't.

NASCAR guys or what I've read is they light a race engine off and sustain the rpm at 2,500rpm for 30 minutes and it is done. No revving up and down BS. Just a flat out roll the parts like and english wheel and compress the surface is press your skin down and that is going to roll the metals more compact like shot peen a part.
So, you see that cam being rolled hard where the parts push against each other is about way less than the finest hair is we are splitting hairs to your lift and a half hour sustain.

Did the valve spring lose any tension on lift or is that a bunch of BS to lift as if the crank and that windmill inside is not a running splash system as soon as that crank throw blasts the oil out of the way.

We are still missing the single throw is 14.7? Did you open the throttle more so as to speed up the same fact filling event as if you changed the filling on your tooth you be chewing on this too give me another number so the engineers can reprogram your chase up the rpm ratio? Notice the sensors need no changing up in elevation as if 14.7 has changed up there is the same filling of the cylinder.

Are we there yet? Do we have the hardest pressure is on the compression ring? Second ring has less air going around the next groove and the next groove or we would blow-by big time. Single ring is so hard as is the cylinder that you are just making the same pressure only more times equals more heat.

How do you discount the hours on the bike/car sitting at a light where you have yet to need a rebuild or the car is smoking at over 130,000 on the same rings and did that really break-in a bike at 20 hard miles? Revving and I love this part is, "Do not stay at one rpm for long is tell me in 15 minutes for long is 130,000 miles is my fill in the blank long.

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Only a small portion of their surface is actually contacting the cylinder wall. The ring area that does contact the cylinder wears down the roughness of the honing pattern on the cylinder walls. Once the roughness of the cylinder is gone, the rings stop wearing into the cylinder. If this happens before the entire ring has worn into the cylinder and sealed, you will have a slow engine no matter how hard it gets ridden after that point.

The difference between what happens in an engine running in the garage, versus one being ridden is a hard concept to put into written words, so if I may use the sounds that we all can relate to: it's the difference between "zing-zing-zing" and "bwaaaaaaaaaAAAAAA"

During "zing-zing-zing" the rings don't get loaded for more than a split second, whereas during "bwaaaaaAAAAAA", the engine is in 100% ring sealing mode

I've seen cylinder wall taper that you can see a ridge at the top where the piston ring stops. I still noticed a crosshatch. 3 rings are touching and the wear as soon as it moves a fraction of an inch or it would last forever. The carbon is left in the chamber every fire off. The engine wears down every degree. It's just a slow process you are not aware of it.

What about all that idle time not WOT-ing the rings on the heat cycles and warm up in general. Are those not minutes lost in that upper pressure? Step on the back brake you can lock the engine at red line. The piston has the same pressure fired. The crank is just keeping the momentum up and that piston moved quicker on the same air cleaner change event is entered the air sooner.

So, throttle apply was one faster event leading up to a faster event is the same fill and the same pressure. Is there going to be a stable heat so the air is more or less pressured at said linear pressure? Remember all that is linear in altitude and air not being stable as in contract and expand. But you sure will fill that cylinder up with either amount is still one basic atmosphere on the valve close.

Is the ring sealed to fire at idle or not? Is that ring sealed in a machined hole that is almost round and so is the ring and is not that about as square as you could get with a drill at X and then hone at Y is Z now square as in a quad seal for a brake caliper? Square sponge bob pants ring a bell?

What about bob's square pants on his skirt? Isn't that cross/dresser slapping some sponge cleaning on the crosshatch is it sure as shit is. Every see those shadow lines? Mighty Micro finished off are those two parts is the wall and her piston wear is a Rosstorespecial bargain hone my 100% cotton briefs he brings UP a percentage is so will I. Rings are air compressed loaded in the static BTDC and pressured AFTC for a lot of degrees even though he thinks it is a split second.

Straighten me up I drift off in hubspeak is to goose his cook inn his square hole bob pants.

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Recent Snowmobile Info:

Yamaha's break-in recommendation for the RX1 has been to idle the engine for 15 minutes.
Some owners found that the heat build up from doing this was so extreme,
that their taillight had begun melting (!!!)

Yamaha has since changed the recommendation to three 5 minute idle periods.

Why would Yamaha recommend a break in method which will prevent the rings
from sealing as well as possible ??

This is a good question ...

Did I mention I was not to tell you all these race secrets and I will honor his wishes. Like I haven't been playing wit use is longer before he told me this? You have been drilled with basic fundamentals so that path is where I do not need to esplaiknowayno dis way? Like long hand are the complex basis. I am reading sections at a time. Here we return to the fundamental basics that Yamaha is more or less stating the ring is going to fire the same at idle as it is at WOTever the other guy is asking a good question is you are ahead of him on this question is he does not know the fundamentals. And there you can tell is like Yamaha knows it is just the same 14.7 at idle is a red light should answer why Yamaha uses that method is Method 1Atmo.

Do you see how you skirt my questions and it brings back us to the same exact abstract. I have yet for you to recognize the 14.7 at idle break in as the same as WOT DA FUK did he say? Do you see a pattern with the Yamaha style is a fundamental key to tuning and FI [especially] diagnostics?

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Q: My bike comes with synthetic oil from the factory, what should I do ??

A: I recommend changing the factory installed synthetic oil back to petroleum for the break-in period.

Q: What about the main and rod bearings, don't they break - in ??

A: Actually, the operation of plain bearings doesn't involve metal to metal contact !! The shiny spots on used
bearings are caused from their contact with the crankshaft journals during start up after the engine has been sitting a while,
and the excess oil has drained off. This is the main reason for not revving up the engine when it's first started.

Q: What about all the Corvettes way back in the early 90's coming with full Mobil 1 as their break-in oil and are Corvettes smoking down the road? That is a lot of testimonial as to the aluminum block engine and now are not the cars in the same smooth wall finish honing process?

A: What are you asking me for. You answered your own question.

Q WOT about main and Rod Serling bearing having a mystery to them.

A: Actually, the operation of the plain bearing doesn't involve metal to metal to metal contest is here we go. The shiny spots on used bearings are caused from their contact with the crankshaft journals during start-up? After the engine has been sitting? Excess oil has drained off? This is the main reason for not revving up the engine when it is first started?

Q. How was that piston skirt worn by the up and down slapping and oil was between that lifetime. Why are not the crank and rod bearings looking like a cylinder wall. Are not the bearings being wiped on two sides of their strokes? Piston scuff. Bearing scuff 360? How about start up? I would think if no oil, it would score, tear that material right out it is so soft. But no it does not harm that skirt or bearing as long as oil is between it. If oil floats in a pressure and you whip up the throttle, were not the parts growing in proportion somewhat?

A. YOu calling me a liar or are you answering your own questions again?

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Rings are air compressed loaded in the static BTDC and pressured AFTC for a lot of degrees even though he thinks it is a split second.
Straighten me up I drift off in hubspeak is to goose his cook inn his square hole bob pants

Hub are you saying pressure on the ring does not increase on the cyclinder wall with higher revs ?

I remember someone on the old site put a link up to a "How It's Made" type show on our 14's. In the video they put every bike on a dyno and rev'ed them to red-line through all the gears just before they rolled them out the door.

I've always been a firm believer in break them in as your going to ride them. Never had any problems.

BG saved it!:
http://www.zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=81112C1A-1372-66AE-3BE9C3539905A5F4

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BG saved it!

<grin>... -bg

Hub are you saying pressure on the ring does not increase on the cylinder wall with higher revs ? If we eliminate the technical about heat and friction is speed on the rise. Look again as the basic concept. zI use the 'rub both hands together" concept to friction. You did not move from the room is a sauna or a cold walk-in fridge like the Dog's frozen BBQ store house is rub to warm up or rub on the meat is tonight's rub. See the heat build is forget that part. Stick with the basics so do not bring up the technical but that "bwaaaaa" is suck it up 14.7 on the close is no other number will be that closing number. No fuel, no spark, no compression completes that practical concept as does the cylinder fill one number is a constant number as is the 3variables to the engine better be in the Constant-3 is the 4th variable = "14.7 Peas On The Side" with the Dog's BBQ bowl bow wow!

Say you comprehend 1 pound of gas to 14.7 pounds of air. If I blow up a pound at idle, am I not blowing up the same amount of pounds = 17,500BTU at 17,500RPM? times 14.7?

Where was my increase/decrease in pounds at any speed?

The difference between what happens in an engine running in the garage, versus one being ridden is a hard concept to put into written words, so if I may use the sounds that we all can relate to: it's the difference between "zing-zing-zing" and "bwaaaaaaaaaAAAAAA"

During "zing-zing-zing" the rings don't get loaded for more than a split second, whereas during "bwaaaaaAAAAAA", the engine is in 100% ring sealing mode.

We block checking your fundamentals wit the fun of fundamentals is answer those absolute steps so there is no controversy is the math is your guide and I cannot give back proper change from a dollar or a pound sterling.

* Last updated by: Hub on 4/13/2009 @ 5:16 PM *

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So, what is with this warm up if you know the more you rub your hands the hotter the rise in friction from a cold engine. We have to let the engine idle is pounds of pressure on the cylinder. Are you loading a resistance? Did you increase water temp on the friction load? That engine is going to load the first time it feels gears up to the first stop you make.

If the water and head temp are stable. Where is this pressure once the pressure is sustained. Did the wire take the heat as in, absorbs the coefficient? You math the event like electricity. The more you load the same resistance like a rheostat, did not the same amp travel the same speed? Did not the pound blow 360?

I cannot climb out of this loop no matter how you want me to make the combo work. I revert back to the single loop 360 = 14.7 PSI.

Now that the metals are all absorbed as coefficient as it gets is lasts for years under any condition you give it on the road does it move 14.7 step after step after 360 after pound of carbon dated is breath in and breath out is what was that number you just took like a cylinder took to the book is work the practical event in your head.

I once again is ask if you can come to a conclusion is that initial concept of the break-in and now as you question what you read, do you have a basic concept to follow the math steps as in 1 plus 4 = .7 is see how I can screw up the math is unravel the numbers and they add up to... 1Atmo. Can't go wrong with that number is keep it a secret is this is a racing secret and do not pass it along. Say nothing or we gonna lose someone gonna get a lane on us and we are an afta-afta. After the fat is fact you just had to tell them didn't you.

YOU!YOU! You have this down yet? As I ask again; are we on the same page is yet?

* Last updated by: Hub on 4/13/2009 @ 5:48 PM *

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So if a pound of fuel gives off the same BTU it also produces the same amount pressure, and speed of the piston has zero to do with it because all numbers are constant and there values remain the same. Got it.

Hub so quotes like this one below you would give thumbs down or list as not true ?

Acid contamination and oil consumption are the 2 reliability problems which are the result of an
"owner's manual" or "magazine tech article" style easy break-in.

By following the instructions on this page, you'll find that your oil is cleaner and the engine will rev quicker.
Plus, you'll have much better torque and power across the power range from the vastly improved ring seal.

Reliability and Power are 100% connected !!

Acid contamination and oil consumption are the 2 reliability problems which are the result of an
"owner's manual" or "magazine tech article" style easy break-in.

I've personally sold a car that had the crankcase and top end with so much sludge from short warm-ups where work was less than 2 miles away. Guy told me it made it to Mexico and did not burn a drop of oil. Not bad for a set of rings in a bath of acid mixed with old acid sludge is reverts back to crude and isn't refined crude a carbon burn in the exhaust tip? I guess rings live and seal if the machining is within spec an the ring floats to press against the back of the ring in the groove. Huston, we have seal. No oil loss. One well broken in car from new is some granny called my mother's car.

You want her to break in your next bike?

By following the instructions on this page, you'll find that your oil is cleaner and the engine will rev quicker.
Plus, you'll have much better torque and power across the power range from the vastly improved ring seal.

Reliability and Power are 100% connected !!

That's my problem. I do not follow guy like this, nor Ivan, nor CheezeManJohnny, nor the other car/bike websites telling me how to walk the talk. Not after I listen is ask them about this very cylinder fill is basic stuff. You do not know this, how you gonna figure out the tune?

I think I can see what they are missing is you tell anyone about this and we are in trouble... I'm tellin ya. MustankModders and their 02 sensor resitore zizz tore them a new asshole is asked basic questions in this type atmosphere. Same 360/14.7 speak and I blow up the BTU = Babble Them UP.

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That's my problem. I do not follow guy like this, nor Ivan, nor CheezeManJohnny, nor the other car/bike websites telling me how to walk the talk. Not after I listen is ask them about this very cylinder fill is basic stuff. You do not know this, how you gonna figure out the tune?

But Hub, you must admit some of these guys do have great results and will back them up. And yes I know you can tongue tie them when you want, but still ..... Do you remember my first post, BACKFIRE.. You schooled me through that one and others, but when I wanted more, I went to Ivan, and I have not looked back. The bike I have sleeping in the garage is not the gentle giant that was missing her saddle bags when I bought her. My point is some of this info these guys put out, has merit and can work. I ride the proof.

I want to know where Ivan's assfactor is on the G/R wire. That is about the worst mod going and you go to Ivan for watt?

I do not know what to tell you. I have run with the best and I sure was not the fastest. I tuned my tune and when it came to having a winning combination, I have my share of wins and championships is where was that factory tuner with his bike and my bike is could not catch me with all that HP is out rode a lot of them. And yes, there are guys/gals that know how to do it better than I.

If I see you with that GPS G/red sig in the face of my ass, I do not want that code on. So, you with that bike sitting in your garage and my bike sitting in my garage w/out the G/R and you want to say that bike is running tits?

There is not an icon I can use to laugh that one up. Red Eye ya do INN Eye Van? G/REally?

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But Hub, you must admit some of these guys do have great results and will back them up. And yes I know you can tongue tie them when you want, but still ..... Do you remember my first post, BACKFIRE.. You schooled me through that one and others, but when I wanted more, I went to Ivan, and I have not looked back. The bike I have sleeping in the garage is not the gentle giant that was missing her saddle bags when I bought her. My point is some of this info these guys put out, has merit and can work. I ride the proof.

Right on Romans, I feel the same way. If some one can show me a better tune for my 14 the way I ride, I'll buy it.....otherwise I don't want to hear about it!

Kruz

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