Does anyone know how to turn "safe mode" off on a 13 zx14r ? I got my ecu flashed by AF1 racing, and my bike is running on three cylinders between 1k-6k rpms . My check engine light doesn't not come on nor throw a code. It bogs extremely bad and runs on three cylinders until it hits 6k and then it runs perfectly fine, and what AF1 support is telling me is that my bikes "safe mode" is still on and that's why my bike is acting the way it's acting. Does anyone know what the hell they are talking about ? Or none the less does anyone know how the heck to turn it off ?

You just pissed your money down your leg. Go with Brocks/Gual. Or do what I did and hit up Cblast here on the forum for the best flash known to mankind and these dudes will remove the safety mode.

Safety mode keeps you from flipping over when the KTRC is off. It robs power. Tell AF1 to fuck off and fix it or give you your money back.

The safe mode was not removed when they flashed ur bike. It is not a difficult fix. And it does not take long to turn the ecu around after it's been flashed correctly. Once the full power map is completed with all the details, that map is simply copied directly over ur safety map. Then your bike is allowed to switch over naturally, it simply switches to the copied F power map in less time than one piston stroke. Seemless with ZERO loss of power. Safe map will be gone. This is just one of the details that sets a quality flash apart. Gimme a shout if there is anything I can do to help, or if ya have any questions.

If it's the owner of that aprilia site and dealershit, I cornered the guy to walk the theory to map 1 to map 2 on these ape bikes and he could not explain it. I bring up a factory document and shove it in his face. I got booted off. Checkoff one more site that does not have the computer savvy to touch one of these binary bikes. Not that I have the savvy, I'm just saying.

Do this. Let them ride it so they know watt they did. Have them return it back to stock and get your money back. If this driveability is still there, they ruined the ECU if it still has the same loss of spark. Then they eat the ECU. You were not there to see the process and how many cells they corrupted to cause it. Not that I'd know which cells, I'm just saying.

So it's now a throwing the shit against the wall game and see where it sticks:

Ape guy goes... Not me! I just cut and pasted. Blame the flash unit.

You go... Yeah, but you said you knew what you were doing is why you charged me the big bucks.

Ape begins the monkey dance... Well, you go after mods, you get what comes. We charge you again to fix it.

You say... Yeah, if there was a tuner in the house we wouldn't have this probe blame YO!

Ape starts sweating... Look, I'm going to go back and fix this. Customer is always write (me a code), I wouldn't want to have my riders on this and have an ape run like Dis.

You say... Just put it back to stock so it's rideable or fix your fukcup so the other cylinder comes back from lunch.

I got my ecu flashed by AF1 racing,

Hemi, Not sure who AF1 Racing is but this may not be there fault. And Yes of course it could be ??? There are some things going on behind the scenes currently so maybe give them the benefit of the doubt and let them reflash. If they can not fix it lots more I can add to this story. Talk for later.

It bogs extremely bad and runs on three cylinders until it hits 6k and then it runs perfectly fine, and what AF1 support is telling me is that my bikes "safe mode" is still on and that's why my bike is acting the way it's acting. Does anyone know what the hell they are talking about ?

Hemi What your describing is Not Safe Mode.

"Hemi What your describing is Not Safe Mode".

That's what I thought Romes.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 4/6/2014 @ 11:58 AM *

So why are some people saying it is safe mode and some aren't ?

My bike has a 1000 miles on it and of course I have a warranty ( with the extended warranty plan) . I just bought this bike 2 weeks from a guy in san Antonio ( I live in Oklahoma City ) . It is immaculate and when I received the bike and I started it I realized something wasn't right. The bike Boggs extremely bad at idle and when riding the bike anytime the needle is between 1-6k it Boggs extremely bad . But when I run it wide open it runs like a beast. So I took my bike to Ajax Kawasaki ( a Kawasaki dealership ) and the mechanic says that it's not throwing any code . He says it's running on three cylinders at idle and when I'm just putting around until I run it wide open then it's running on all 4.

The guy I bought the bike from is extremely cooperative . He says he just figured that was normal with the ecu flash, Brock's , and PC5. He even said he would be willing to buy me a new ecu. I respect the fact that he is staying in touch with me and wanting to make this right . Since some people would just screw you over and never talk to the person who got sold the item again.

So the guy I bought the bike from sent an email to AF1 racing about the ecu issue he is having with the flash . Here is what he wrote and what AF1 responded with: I want to know everyone's input on what to do , cause at this point I'm fed up with getting the run around.

AF1 racings response to the problem we are having with the bike.

We recently received information from our Authorized Tuning Center, AF1 Racing, in regards to the technical issues you are experiencing on your 2013 ZX-14. They have forwarded us your emails describing the details of the situation and we will do our best to assist you in locating the issue(s) and direction toward finding the solution. This is considerably outside of our technical warranty period, however it is still very important to us that your motorcycle is performing at the level it should be performing.
(1) The Performance Re-flash -
We use the same tested & proven performance tune file for each ZX-14R we service. Occasionally we will have to implement adjustments in the the mapping parameters, but this is only necessary when working with more complex engine applications/modifications. In the case of your motorcycle, the same exact performance file was used. This eliminates the ECU software (performance file) as a probable cause.
(2) "The bike was running ruff down low below 6000 rpm (did not do that prior to flash) and I took it to Kawasaki Dealership. They ran a test and it showed a check engine light and the bike was only running on three cylinders"
These are clear signs of the ECU putting the bike into a "Safe Mode" and can be caused by any number of issues, most often resulting from basic issues caused when vehicles sit for extended periods of time without being ridden (low voltage delivery from the battery, old gas or sediment in the fuel tank and system). There are many many things that can result in the ecu putting the vehicle into safe mode. So the running condition of the motorcycle at this point is not in anyway demonstrating the performance or quality of the performance re-flash. You are simply experiencing the bike in safe mode. So we can evaluate the re-flash the issue causing the safe mode needs to identified and addressed, eliminating the code/safe mode and allowing the engine and vehicle to perform in its optimum state.
(3) "I took it to Kawasaki Dealership.......After almost two weeks of trying to figure out the problem, they ordered a new ECU, plugged it in and the bike ran fine"
What was inspected, tested or replaced over the course of these 2 weeks?.. and how did they come to the conclusion that it was the ecu? The fact that the bike was starting, running and delivering/receiving information well enough to determine there was a need for Safe Mode are all all good signs that the ecu itself is functioning correctly. If the issue is directly related to the ecu itself then in most cases the diag/error codes would represent this and the bike would not start or run. A faulty ecu delivers a specific error code and will not allow the bike to start.
Replacing the ecu with a brand new ecu also does not identify the problem it will only clear the error code and safe mode, There are a number of reasons why this is not effective evaluation or confirmed solution.
Many of these issues that cause safe mode are intermittent and may only happen under certain circumstance. Although a new ecu will in most cases eliminate the codes/safe mode it is only until conditions are right for the issue to occur again... this may be 2 days or 2 months later to only find that the error code/safe mode have returned. This exact scenario is discussed and shown all over the forums. The dealer cannot locate the problem or cannot re-enact the problem during their inspection, so they replace the ecu, the codes go away and the customer goes on his way only to find the problem has returned a few days later.
There is a problem with the vehicle however with the stock ecu mapping characteristics, the problem is not significant enough for the ecu to recognize as a legit danger to the vehicle - HOWEVER the more aggressive mapping characteristics in the re-flash will intensify the problem to a point the ecu now recognizes it as an issue. For example....the vehicle has a battery or coil on its way out and beginning to produce lower voltages. They are delivering enough voltage to adequately supply the electronics in their stock condition, however due to the additional voltage needed to accommodate for the more agressive tuning in the reflash the sensors and ecu will now receive a low voltage signal causing the error code/safe mode. The dealer puts a new ecu (with stock mapping) into the bike and fixes the problem. This was not cured because of the new ECU but instead because the stock
mapping/performance was returned to the bike.
Again there are so many issues that can cause this error code and safe mode and in this case it may take some additional investigating or a more experienced dealer technician to find the solution. Here are a couple of very good links in which they discuss this exact issue occurring in various applications and for various reasons ..... ZX-10R, ZX-14, ZX6 ....some with reflash, some with power commanders, some completely stock.... but all with the same results you are experiencing..... and none of them related to the reflash. We put one of the better links below that offer really good info on this. Again you will find many of these thread discussions all over the forums.
http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/archive/index.php?t-110166.html
Our optimum goal here is to help you in finding a solution for this problem ....and with our knowldege and experience in this area, we can confidently & honestly tell you that this issue is not directly related to the performance file itself.
However before we take anything off of the table as a possibility, please checkout the link above and throughout the internet. We also suggest the possibility of getting another opinion from a qualified factory mechanic (through a different dealer).
Keep us informed and either way, we will continue to help with what we can until a solution has been found.

Let me know what you guys think. I forwarded this to the mechanic at Ajax Kawasaki and I will show what he replied with to AF1 .

And for the record the mechanic at Ajax Kawasaki put a STOCK ECU in the bike and it runs perfectly fine with no issue. So it's definitely the ecu is it not ?

Yup...sounds like it to me....simple swap...problem solved...no issue that I see.Someone flashed it incorrectly.Right now you have no PC on there?And a stock ECU?and it's running fine?Okay...that's your starting point.Now you can flash without that Powercommander if you choose....you don't actually NEED that PC on there with a correct flash.Less is better;)

Safe mode is a program that kicks in in the midrange and is very hard to detect just riding....what you're describing is NOT 'safe mode'.Although that explanation does make sense.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 4/6/2014 @ 1:44 PM *

Replacing the ecu with a brand new ecu also does not identify the problem it will only clear the error code...

WATT was the last thing I did to the bike? A flash.

What causes the bike to run on all 4 again? An unflashed, brand new ECU.

WATT are the 3wV's?

1. Wire not in the connector = Nope. New ECU shows no codes and runs on all 4's.
2. Short to ground = Nope. New ECU shows no codes and all systems are go, i.e., running on all 4's.
3. Signal not within spec = Yep. And does the troubletree say replace the ecu as a signal is not good inside? Bingo! We have a 3-wire-Variable SOLVED... WINNER! Wattelse could it be if not the 3wV covering your ass in such a simple way. It only works one way are the electrics as is the cam to crank = A Balance.

Fuck'INN bet me... Make my day 1A wants to play.

Why? Because of what Cblast said about that one stroke transition is the 24 or 8 ping count off [pick a tone wheel tooth arrangement] the crank sensor puts out and that just got the correct pinged signal with a good (new) known part. It just took [a few seconds] to turn the light off fandango at the dash.

There are 2 perps and 1 victim in all this. Fist perp was the flasher. Next perp was the seller knowing something was up and now should pay for that ECU that AJax ordered. Second perp sends the check to the shop and do not start the bike until all is settled either way. The original owner collects from the first perp or the, 'backyard backender' kind of flashing we will go, a flushing of a cylinder down chew know. Flip to flop HA Dairy YO, a ___ da-ta-da HA we will go... Finish it. It's the truth tables a tumbling we will go, a tumbling we will go...Hi/Low...

Sing it wit me

A tumbling we will go, a truth table don't chew know, hi/low the dairy YO, you fuked with the Bi. A bye-bye we will go, HI BLOW my scenario right thru my________ Make it rhyme wit

hemi,

You paid for a bike and the owner should have mentioned it. Let him cut you a check for the ecu. I'd eat the labor at Ajax because oh well, buyer beware. But at least you found the problem. Owner should have mentioned something like that [so you could have walked away from it] paying for a 600cc running bike. He knew there was a glitch and kept quiet? So the only fix is to have someone pay for a flash back to stock?

What if this cannot be solved? That's money out of pocket that should go to that new ECU. So either buy the new ECU and take a crap shoot the original owner takes the loss and pays you back or wait for the check from him to be sure. You have no recourse from the flasher. That was the original owner's choice. He has to recoup from the flasher guy.

A dyno is only as good as its operator. A flash is only as good as its operator. And I'll buy that ECU so I can take a peek inside to see what happened? If I get it running, you can have it back. I just want to pay for some tuition, being one more "backyard backender." I'd like that challenge at the tables to have that cylinder come back on line.

I'm more interested in that little package and WATTS inside that puppy that shut down an [alleged] cylinder.

Bike runs fine.
Shop makes mod.
Bike runs like shit.
Shop says it's not our fault.
Different shop removes mod, puts it back to stock.
Bike runs fine.
First shop says it's not our fault and it will soon run like shit again.
Easy to test, just run with the new stock ECU for a while.
Of course, by the time you can prove the first shop was inept and unqualified, the warranty on their work will have run out.

I would send the reflashed ECU to an expert like Don Guhl for examination and possible reflashing. If it can't be repaired, continue to run the stock ECU until there is no doubt the reflash was at fault and not the machine. When all doubt has been removed, you can still send the new ECU to Guhl for a reflash if the old one is knackered.

And then, plaster what incompetent pricks this AF1 are all over every website on the internet.

Bike runs fine.
Shop makes mod.
Bike runs like shit.
Shop says it's not our fault.
Different shop removes mod, puts it back to stock.
Bike runs fine.
First shop says it's not our fault and it will soon run like shit again.
Easy to test, just run with the new stock ECU for a while.
Of course, by the time you can prove the first shop was inept and unqualified, the warranty on their work will have run out.

I would send the reflashed ECU to an expert like Don Guhl for examination and possible reflashing. If it can't be repaired, continue to run the stock ECU until there is no doubt the reflash was at fault and not the machine. When all doubt has been removed, you can still send the new ECU to Guhl for a reflash if the old one is knackered.

And then, plaster what incompetent pricks this AF1 are all over every website on the internet.

Bike runs fine.
Shop makes mod.
Bike runs like shit.
Shop says it's not our fault.
Different shop removes mod, puts it back to stock.
Bike runs fine.
First shop says it's not our fault and it will soon run like shit again.
Easy to test, just run with the new stock ECU for a while.
Of course, by the time you can prove the first shop was inept and unqualified, the warranty on their work will have run out.

I would send the reflashed ECU to an expert like Don Guhl for examination and possible reflashing. If it can't be repaired, continue to run the stock ECU until there is no doubt the reflash was at fault and not the machine. When all doubt has been removed, you can still send the new ECU to Guhl for a reflash if the old one is knackered.

And then, plaster what incompetent pricks this AF1 are all over every website on the internet.

The bike was running ruff down low below 6000 rpm (did not do that prior to flash) and I took it to Kawasaki Dealership. They ran a test and it showed a check engine light

He says he just figured that was normal with the ecu flash, Brock's , and PC5

"I took it to Kawasaki Dealership.......After almost two weeks of trying to figure out the problem, they ordered a new ECU, plugged it in and the bike ran fine"

Let me guess the KDS system Kawi Uses was not able to clear code.

WATT was the last thing I did to the bike? A flash

And for the record the mechanic at Ajax Kawasaki put a STOCK ECU in the bike and it runs perfectly fine with no issue. So it's definitely the ecu is it not ?

Yup...sounds like it to me....simple swap...problem solved...no issue that

Answers are all here.

Someone flashed it incorrectly

Maybe Not. Roll of the Dice came up Snake Eyes. This is cropping up more and more as the flashing of the ECU's becomes more wide spread.

Hemi I would love to know for sure if the ECU was truly a Brock flashed ECU as it suggests above. AF1 Racing the middle man ?? Does ECU have a Stupid Fast Sticker on it ?

I appreciate everyone's input and help. The original owner who I bought the bike from is taking the ecu back to AF1 racing in New Braunfels,Tx to have them send it on and get it properly flashed . If this dos not work he is going to buy me a new ecu and I will make sure everyone knows AF1 racing is S%#*. Then I will send my new one to Guhls to get flashed, I hear nothing but good things about them.

Obviously a flash issue. They can't 'use the same performance file', and just cram it over everyone's ecu. It doesn't work like that. The locations of the files inside the ecu change locations based on whether ur bike has abs or not etc. When flashing, the actual files have to be flashed over the correct files in the correct locations or an ecu can become corrupted very easily. The numbers don't 'fit' in the wrong spot. All of it then needs to be triple checked and verified. Fuel maps in all cylinders need to be unified, and ALL maps for all separate gears need to be checked. It's really too bad ya had this bad experience. Once ya ride her with a quality flash you won't look back!

I appreciate everyone's input and help. The original owner who I bought the bike from is taking the ecu back to AF1 racing in New Braunfels,Tx to have them send it on and get it properly flashed . If this dos not work he is going to buy me a new ecu

Sound good Hemi, glad to here it's going to work out

johnnycheese wrote:
On Smokehouse ECU it never lost power same torque and HP and was smooth just that the light came on

Smoke wrote:
Mine ran poorly in the shop , it would not idle right and just die without warning ... But I never took it out on the road to see if it ran good or bad . Not saying it was the ECU , just saying that is what happened to me ..

http://zx1441r.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=593&sid=cf1d99e89b9f44595081dd4bbbb7a974&start=300

I jump around to the usual sites, see this. If I just began to understand something, the rug is pulled out from under me, I have to juggle two theories back and forth? WATThefuk!

Where is Jcheeze? Same-same with code set are two ECU's or are we swapping these out back and forth is one with the light on? So, reflash to stock and start all over.
Where is Smoke alarm and now I start it up and it asspuckers and stinks up the shop? Computer bikes light right off and idle. A light comes on fandango and now that says something is up.

At least a code means the Tables are Turned. How can one run fine the other coughs and spits. Both with lights on? This Ajax flashed caused a code. Who's software? This one of JcheezeIS, does he farm out his ECU's? Who's software does he use? And now Smoke has one? Wait a minute. This is a Don/Brock burn, right? Software glitch has Don?

Don's software = His own setup of who knows what converter program is it?
Ivan's software = Where Ivan says he is no longer associated with the Brock/Don deal but burns his own ECU's.
JcheezeISoftware = Who's does he use? Cheeze farm out his ECU's?
Ajax's software = One more converter program that who knows who is uses what software?
Smoke = Is out of the picture. I have no clue who/what/where he sends or even does it in house or farms it out to Don?

Code Issue:

1. What light is on in this OP's dash?
2. What light is on in JcheezeIs dash?
3. What light is on in Smoke's dash?

Table Troubles:

A. I set who's what to cut the paste this shit and now watt?
B. How many tables has Don managed to score in code sets: with his software conversion package?
C. Ajax has someone's converter software to bug into the ECU someway somehow, I have no clue?
D. I'm seeing a driveability problem: how many codes has Ivan lighted off, then Don, now Justin's software?

Ajax Tune = 1 thru 6K the cylinder drops off = Sounds like software compatibility.
Jcheeze Tune = Some code light is on but runs fine? Who's software is this and is it a glitch to the program or who is writing a new cell combo?
Smoke's Tune = I can't even tell what happened so I shut it down. I match the same code? This is Don's flash?

That's 3 software packages I'll assume and make me the ass now, one is either the tuner or software.

Don's package ~ If he has zero fault codes or cylinder tables drop, where are the failures like the other ECU's being flashed?
Ivan's package ~ If Ivan has zero tables doing funny things and no one is complaining about, i.e., a light coming on, back to one more software package that is compatible?
Justin's package ~ If this flashing software is shooting code lights to come on, a new ECU turns off any 3wV, then it was not the 3 wire variables.

So for me to work this shit out of some code making move, is it an alleged software glitch or is it the operator at the dyno, i.e., using [who's] product? So to narrow down a code it has to be an external fault. These are at the telemetry or sensors and it goes back to 3 basic variables:

1. Wires = Are they connected as in continuity? Then it's not the wires.
2. Jobbers = Are the sensors all down or shorted internally so as a wrong signal causes the system to code? No jobber
3. ECU = Are there any other variables to the bike? No. I covered the whole electrical system. The brains of the bunch [of wires] has a cylinder down. That says table. That says cell. What other function is the black box but to compute.

Every last file in that box was written with a function. What has RAM'd that code light on, if not the octal moving out of range? What if I flash back to the original bin files and layer over every matching map you can open, every drilldown change you can make. Something in RAM has this light locked on. Since you can't change ROM... Make sense?

Would y'all like some hints??? Lol. Ya never stacked me in there Hub? :)) I have never flashed any fault codes into my mix. Now here is the hint. Ya know those fancy pin connectors. They carry more than one signal or function code message, ie: one pin can be responsible for a throttle body function AND a pair valve function AND a traction control function. SO LET ME SPELL IT OUT, these things are linked. If you tune a bike, throw a half assed flash on it and a set of block off plates for the pair system, you are gonna start throwing codes. Why? Because the pin that carries the pair valve relay signal ALSO carries signals for other functions. Block the pair, end around the relay? Nope. How? :)))
Many of the pins are multiple, all of the bikes subsystems are designed to work in concert. Not be spliced into and given false signals. :) where have I heard that before?

Ivan's using ecu Unleashed or a ripoff therein, same week they announce fan temp adjust on / off so does he. But unleashed has problems. Rough software to hardware interfacing. No such issues with the Woolich software. Don't try force files where they don't fit, but that's common sense I thought. Lol. And cheeseman had his ups and down with the old tech. He is swimming in deep tech waters now. :)) As for B and D, adding a PCV ain't the way. Oh, we already covered that. It is in the manual too! Lol. So far it's Woolich battin 1000 when it comes to the R.

Cblast,

Watch the move:

1. Kawi dealer installs a NEW ECU. Let me repeat, a NEW ECU = Code Gone.
2. Is why I am looking at a code burned in the ECU that was flashed.
3. No other time does the light come on fandango with a new ECU.
4. But if you reinstall the flashed ECU, where is the bad pin signal with the new ECU...

It's not a pin. It's a binary's final output and it is in backup. Like you/I said, follow the next guy tied in. So spark drop or fuel shutoff is part of what dropdown box? Spark. So, don't you capture all 4 maps and make them run as one? That would drop all 4 cylinders if a code was to drop at 1 thru 6k I would assume.

So if Romes says that's a new one on him, Justin has a video that shows how to crop them as one, it still says, who's software has a glitch or who is not dropdowning enough moves to keep another tie-in from popping up. So if all these dropout codes are cropping up, does Ivan crop? Does Don? I know you do. Does Ajax? Does Jcheeze? Does Smoke delve into map flashing? And do they all crop?

Then, what if Don and Ivan's software does not have the ability to collect all 4 individual maps to make it as one? See that troubleshoot walk?

Multiple signals...single pins.Just an observation here...I'm trying to figure out HOW the KTRC signal is now ALSO linked to....an ABS signal(same fitting,same line).....;)A 2012 non abs will throw an abs code...AFTER about ten minutes of riding....why the wait?I know this isn't pertaining to an engine error code...but...C makes a good point here.....and I think he's right.Multiple signals using the same hardware.

canbus.