By hand, greenie, take each link and angle one link at a time until you feel one that is tight. I'm going to guess that is the problem.

1. The wheel 360's so it should tap at each 360 point. It does not.
2. The noise is pronounced at the chain side. Not right side brake or wheel bearing as you walked to that side.
3. The strange part that may not be so strange is look at how the noise goes over the back sprocket, heads down that top rung, over the smaller sprocket, hears the bang, comes back under the sprocket, bangs the rear sprocket again.
4. The other part about no noise spinning backwards is that [upon lift], the sprocket, I mean the chain is being pulled by the lesser worn side of the tooth, meaning, you are rolling on the higher, less forced upon, less worn tooth curled side.
5. The other thing I forgot to mention is look at how the back wheel goes quiet. If that was a bad bearing, that would be a bad bearing rolling backwards too. That's how I hear it/see it. I could be wrong with the parts elimination.

* Last updated by: Hub on 8/7/2013 @ 3:13 PM *

Ya...thanks...I tried to google 'bad bearings'...all they had was on autos...and the bearing noise was continuous and grinding/whining sound.

So you think it's the chain then?That's new sprocket on there...maybe 1500 miles on it.When I removed the other sprocket...the wheel hub part came out as well...having to crank on those bolts to get em off.I mean...seriously crank on that last one...it wasn't budging.Had to grind the nut side apart to get the thing to
unlock from the bolt.The cush drive unit and all came out...it went back in okay...Everything looked okay.I'm almost positive this was happening before that sprocket change though.Yes...I'm sure of it.

None of my other bikes ever did this(zx14's).You don't suppose it's got something to do with the ABS system do you?Probably wouldn't affect anything without the key on...right?

"The wheel 360's so it should tap at each 360 point. It does not"...I think it is isn't it?It seemed that way when I rotated the wheel today....at the same point in the spin each time.It sounds to me like it's corresponding to that friction sound I was saying in regards to the rotor there...yet not on the rotor side.

Okay...after sitting all afternoon...after I lubed the chain...it has gone away again...but I was able to get it to clunk like one time...I ran the wheel by hand as before,yet this time I stopped every several rungs and felt the chain slack...it felt even all the way along the chain(pushing up underneath the swingarm to check.The teeth look fine.The chain appears fine.IDK what the heck it is...apparently not something critical...but probably as you say...chain related.Somehow.I don't think it's in the bearing now....I think that's fine.If something was really wrong...it would continue to do this no matter what,right?I'm leaning towards the chain and roller(s) somewhere along that run.They all seemed okay however...they moved freely pushing up underneath.I don't think the brakes have anything to do with this deal.It should have done it again just a little bit ago when I checked it.It only clunked once...and that was it...couldn't get to do it again.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/7/2013 @ 9:10 PM *

Couple of more things to check. Shoulda mentioned this but didn't think of it. When the chain comes around to make the noise, this is where you check the link that hit the sprocket. So you can more narrow down a few links, not the whole rung.

Next is to remove the chain off the back wheel, torque the back wheel back to spec and now spin the wheel with the chain off it. This should knock around and around without chain. No noise, not the bearings. Back to the chain and sprockets.

Hub you can download and install the software onto 3 computers with the one WRT account so you should be right to install it onto both of your computers. It will work on XP, Windows 7 and Windows 8

Sounds like a link, grn. When you rolled the chain, heard the noise at 2 o'clock, let it come around, it now bangs on 12 o'clock, then you rolled the wheel back and it banged back on the 2 o'clock, that says link. The link came around, landed on another tooth, but it is walking that ratio. So yeah, you are going to see that knock go around the sprocket at those intervals maybe? That's the ratio happening you watch one link and one tooth go round = "Linkink"

Take the chain off for piece of mind and chase that bearing. Elimination is the game.

* Last updated by: Hub on 8/8/2013 @ 7:57 AM *

I'm getting conflicting stories or am not understanding what the Woolrich unit is limited to or capable of?

One guy says that you can burn these settings so no code shows, but still needs a fuel piggy for mapping.
Or is it a do-all kind of mapping? For example, if Ivan is flashing only a few settings, he is still handcuffed to making a 'smooth' powercomder map. Is it or is it not possible to map the bike with a Woolrich? Or does it just toggle things on and off like the rpm limiter and the other limiters? The Woolrich has the capability to make a map where this turns the bazza/pc obsolete, correct?

My limited understanding is there is this 'learn to burn process' with say the pc5. You make map, this learn is processing [after the map is made] to make the final map: is that unit. I think the bazz is going to learn the burn the instant you click the enter key and the rpm is set at so and so?

So in other words, if you do not get it right, say for argument sake there are burn scales. So from one cell to the next, meaning, we are at said throttle opening (X) and said rpm (Y) and now we have said (Z) fuel cell setting ready to burn. BUT!... If you are in the increment that is out of range, you could burn to learn the next cell increment instead.

I'm thinking that if the pc leans later, the bazz learns at the entry is the burn. This says, you could mess up the bazz tune, where the pc tune corrects your cell, the bazz won't. So if the Wooly is tuneable, we must be what? A bazz type learn system we get a cell out of rpm/tps range?

Are we on the same page with this one type scenario?

Hi Hub, you dont need a piggyback to map the fuel, you have full access to both the IAP and TPS fuel maps in the Woolich Racing Tuned software. Yes it is absolutely possible to make a fuel map in the WRT software. Please see the videos on some of the functions available in the software

Woolich Racing Tuned - Tutorial Videos

I'm getting conflicting stories or am not understanding what the Woolrich unit is limited to or capable of?
One guy says that you can burn these settings so no code shows, but still needs a fuel piggy for mapping.
Or is it a do-all kind of mapping? For example, if Ivan is flashing only a few settings, he is still handcuffed to making a 'smooth' powercomder map. Is it or is it not possible to map the bike with a Woolrich? Or does it just toggle things on and off like the rpm limiter and the other limiters? The Woolrich has the capability to make a map where this turns the bazza/pc obsolete, correct?

I'll take a shot at this one. Hub the woolich is a complete ECU Edit. You can do it all. The ECU edit now allows the Map maker to decide what he or she wants the bike to run like. No boundaries due to emissions, walls are ALL down.

The image you make into Your Maps becomes a reflection of what ever you the builder think the bike should run like. I build the maps based on years of riding the zx14 my likes or dislikes goes into my flash. Basicly, Ivan, Brock And all us other hackers make the bike into what we think it should be based our impression of what we think it should be.

We know Brock works drag side of it. Ivan works the Smooth and top end as well. For me I work the combo of the two. Hub I know from all these years you are going to work the smooooooth.

Ok, where we fall short. As you say we are still handcuffed.

ECU editing has no way of translating your 350 dollar Dyno maps that you may have just spent a fortune on. That being said you if you try and enter the #'s as a guess you may run the risk of

If I had a Dyno, even then I would have to make my runs and guess what #'s to plug in based on my experience. Afterwards run again untill I get it right. Man is still required in this. And as we know he can make mistakes. This is why Dyno-Jet still has a hand on us.

Currently in My case I translate my #'s into the map Of what I think it should be, then make a run, study all the new data I get from SB6 mixed with PCV Auto #'s using my AFR table then combine % numbers's , Enter all info, Run again. objective is to get all power commander fuel cells to Zero's, then we toss the unneeded hardware. Some times I go blind looking at #'s Hurts Me Weee Brain.

This way is Very dangerous and hard as fuck on tires not to mention Countless tanks of fuel.

Problem, This still straps me to 2000 dollars of electronics.

Ok I see some shops now offer Woolich Dyno Tune. Nothing could be better.

Now lets stand in the shoes of the Dyno Operator. This fine individual has to manually input the data same as we do in our map runs. To date Woolich has No Auto Tune function for Kawi. That being said Dyno operator can't use info from Dyno Jet to tell him What the new numbers are and he needs to guess to get his desired AFR and hp.

Woolich is ECU Edit only. But it can be so much more. Justin has worked out Auto Tune for Suziki Now, We just have to wait. He will get worked out of that I have no doubt as I'm still seeing updates almost every other day. (Work alcoholic). Until that day comes we are still handcuffed to data loggers and man's best guesses as to inputs.

I highly recommend the purchase to anyone who has some experience with tuning. This is by far the best thing that has ever happened for us. Love it.

If I could ever get my hands on Auto Tune Function Inside our ECU's Now that will be a Happy Happy day.

If I made any wrong statements above please fix.

* Last updated by: Romans on 8/11/2013 @ 8:34 AM *

You summed it all up exactly and more on point than I have ever heard it put in one place. That should be quoted on the woolich site.

Hi Romans, thanks for your comments, you summed it up well. Yes we are working on AutoTune for Kawasaki's but it is still a way off. It requires the datalogging of engine data and wideband o2 data to make it work and this is quite a bit different on the Kawasaki's.

Thanks, Romes/Wooly.

What I want to do is see the screen in real time if at all possible? Start the bike up, watch the numbers change or however the system moves in steps? So say a sensor fails, can we see the backup map in play? Can we see the cells change on the map from the one signal to the next? Can you see the load change if you revved the engine? Something like that?

I should know this already hub but which model bike do you own?

2013 abs/14R

The live engine data for this model is still a little way off, the 2012+ models use a very different protocol to the earlier models.

Thanks, Justin. I wish they would just standardize it like cars. One protocol setting and you are done with 500 different boxes to plug in 500 different cars/bikes/etc.

Yeah i totally agree, bikes are a bit of a nightmare, some (Yamaha) dont have any diagnostics available except on the dash...

wideband o2 data to make it work and this is quite a bit different on the Kawasaki's.

hmmmm, you have me thinking that this would be more of a wide band two hack. New would = Instead of send info from wide band to pcv, the info direct into ECU. From there we record and make changes via bench harness ?

I'm in,,,, ? When lol

The log box for kawasaki is in very early development, it takes time to develop and get to production with complex electronic devices, but this is our number 1 priority at the moment. I can not give a specific release date, it will be months away yet. It will be 100% compatible with our current interfaces and harnesses. We will be doing a discount for people who have purchased a Mitsubishi USB interface already so its an easy upgrade path.

Justin Woolich Type 3B harness. No More Removing ECU. See Pics

Bike to be installed 2012 ZX-14R

Use 1.3 Alan Key To Push Plug Out Of ECU Pins 66 And 67.

Two Wire Install Complete

Diagnostic plug

Reading ECU Complete

Writing Test Flash Now Complete. Love It

* Last updated by: Romans on 8/16/2013 @ 11:45 AM *

http://antigravitybatteries.com/microstartxp1/

Good find there Hub....looks pretty cool for sure;)

My buddy buys the smallest battery. Installs it in his 500cc two stroke yam. You could tell how robust the ignition was when it came on and the spark lit that bike right off in few kicks. I see this as feeding the laptop, gopro, start some lady's car up and get laid looking kind of package?

Well done Romans! I wanted that kit too!!

Hub I put the Antigravity Batt in my bike, it was perfect. Read the long article on AVRider forum about how poor some of the lithium batts (especially Shoria) were, so went with Antigravity.

My work is relocating me from Sydney to San Diego, so I've had to sell my beloved Angel (2009 ZX14). Just when it was perfect!! But new owner didn't want the woolly kit so it is up for sale. PM me with an offer. You will need to buy your own bin file ($100 from website), but harness, Mitsubishi unit are for sale.

@Romans, I eventually killed the pop, and got my PCV to a zero map and Autotune confirmed it was correct - trims of 1/-1 only. Sell your Power Commander shares!