Guys I'm starting Holidays on Sunday. This will be in a small fishing town(Yarmouth Nova Scotia)where I'm from. I will be going with All Women and kids. None of these women like to burn Gas, so something tells me I will be spending lots of time on the net. With That being said let's get into this and try to keep it simple for all to understand. And Yes it is simple based on your exposure time promise. So let's play and maybe you guys can help me from losing my mind lol.
Yes, bike runs leaner on fast idle and gets richer as it warms up. I noticed making edits with bike running at idle makes little difference in AFR. ECU is probably adjusting fuel to counteract my adjustments. Will have to put back to 0 at idle and see if that makes any dif in AFR. I don't see any reason to change AFR here anyway. Romans put a 0 at 1000 rpm so bike idles on Stock number anyway.
"ECU is probably adjusting" As time goes on Rook you will quickly see all the promised adjustment from the sensor inputs add up to Zip. Your bike will not fix AFR at 6000 feet nor will it adjust for sea level. Sorry. Which is why cookie cutter maps will "NOT" be perfect. One Flash or one Tune does not fit all bikes, never did.
Which brings up a area for you to study. Once your become use to your software you need to play with the seconds before Auto Tuning is activated. This is In your PCV setting for Auto Tune. Starting the bike begins our fast idle, if bike is cold you do not want AFR slamming Rich/Lean. The setting from the day before is fine. So do not have auto tune activated in two seconds of run time. Make sense ? Unless bike is warm and you're just playing with the software of course.
As I read the above I need to point out you guys have jumped right into the hardest area to tune. Which is the areas that provide the smoothest running and the most rewards, but if done wrong will frustrate you to no end. Tuners skip over this area for a reason. As you're about to learn.
Once you have your No Load area's of the fuel map cells complete. Go into your AFR table and remove those cells. Skip this step and Auto tune will never stop hunting for the perfect AFR that you set.
Important to understand that 02 sensor reading will never correct if your wrist is always cycling the throttle, and this is what is happening if you're riding the bike. So go back to N set that area up to 5000 rpm and then remove those cells from AFR table.
Skip this step and your bottom cells will have values of -35 and plus 40% above and below stock. Now the fuel cells above and below those ones will try and compensate for bad AFR #'s. The process will grow and continue through your fuel map over and over until your bike runs like a polished turd. This is where guys will scream the software and Auto Tune doesn't work,,,,, but it does. The user of the tools just needs to learn to use the tool properly. Proof is in the AFR.
Now I can see from above you're already there. But you need to play here to understand your software and what it's doing. Like I said this can be hard on the head but with help What took me years to learn now should only take you hours. So keep at it.
I'm not sure if you will ever get 0 in all the cells. There are so many different influences here, temperature, humidity etc. I don't sweat the 1s and 2s that pop up, as auto-tune will take care of that as you ride.
I would not be too surprised if some trims I made earlier are now getting trimmed back in the other direction by 1 or 2. When this seems to be stabilized and I get 1s and 2s and a lot of 0s, it's done.
Exactly, and don't think for one second that your AFR numbers will not fluctuate. It's to be expected. All normal.
* Last updated by: Romans on 7/29/2016 @ 10:42 AM *