Ok guys I dropped my oil to inspect for gold flakes and found nothing but a few tiny silver bits. No worries I say. I thought about changing viscosity as I am utilizing 0w-20 at the moment, but that would skew my increased clutch spring pressure testing that shall commence on this day. The next step involves a new in-tank pump and a compression test while I have the beast dissected. A proper cylinder leak down would be head and shoulders superior but alas I don't have the required equipment. I will keep you updated and your willingness to help is appreciated.

The local 1320 decided to rest on this day of sabbath and I will have to wait until next weekend to test my increased clutch spring pressure.

Yeah!! I spent the day changing my plugs! :) fun stuff. And I wasn't trying to say anything negative. Just thinking out loud. When ur crankin 9.1 sec 1/4 miles, we are kinda being picky! :)))

* Last updated by: Cblast on 9/15/2013 @ 9:08 PM *

Wait... Who is going 9.5s? And yeah I feel you on the plug change. Not a bit fun.

man, I just love workin on this bike though. If ur patient, everything makes sense. I really enjoyed it. That #2 plug is a bi%#!!! But, once all new ones are in, she runs fantastic. The book recommendation on mileage for changing plugs is a must in my humble opinion.

Oh yeah, corrected my #! Was not paying attention but you get my meaning! :)) I do think your bike with that set up should be bustin in to the 8's if not real close. It'll happen. These bikes are beasts!

* Last updated by: Cblast on 9/15/2013 @ 9:10 PM *

I really wanted to go 8s foot shifting with no tune but I don't know if its possible on my bike. My short times are on par with what it should take to go 8s but my bike just isn't pulling like others. A 3.98 through the 330 should translate into better than what I have already gone in my opinion. A bit frustrated but haven't given up. I may ship this ECU back to Don and let him throw a best guess fuel map at it on low power mode so I can compare between factory fueling.

If your racing it do the slipper removal mod at the same time you shim the clutch.
it will slip the clutch with wear.

I didn't think it was possible for the slipper to allow slippage while positive torque is being applied. It was my understanding that slippage upon decel was its only purpose. I always remove the "slack" that the slipper creates by loading the clutch up and creeping into the pre-stage beam.

there will be moments you ease off the clutch and it will creep and then bog on you.
its a simple mod well worth doing if your drag racing more than track riding.

Leak %#'s:
1 ~ 2% leak = Race/Ideal numbers.
6 ~ 8% leak = Race teardown.
9% + leak = See where 10% difference between cylinders is; you're lucky it starts let alone runs and idles well.

And say the valves leak. We lower the compression ratio we grind valve seats deeper, and still be within spec using the thinnest shims, meaning. See if that "Flashurthengine?" Only your air compressor knows for sure.

Hub has it!
Probably a front to rear, top to bottom check required.
Check it all, check everything, compression, plugs, tune, verify until you find the problem.
Just my 2c.

I am in the process of acquiring a leak down tester to perform a proper check.

Looks like their might be 5 MPH on the table from the gas.

Mav, can you get the Shell gas?

Smokin', you get that on 89 octane? Dang!

Are we talking fuel of the non-ethanol type or just blended fuel of the Shell persuasion? Remember that I have been 155 before, but cannot reproduce a 150+ run since the early summer. A problem perhaps exists... Hub mentioned the cylinder leak down test and I do believe that my answer will lie within.

Atmospheric conditions will affect horsepower.
Colder denser winter air will have an engine making more horsepower.
Even more so for charged engines.
I see you refer to (since early summer).
Add a bit of clutch slip to summer air and you could loose horsepower top end no worries.
You seem to race . Do you log your runs.
temps track and ambient. humidity setting per run ect.

mebgardner , Yes I use only 89 shell pump gas and I get it from the same gas station in hopes that I get the same type of blend and it's fresh .. That way I can take some variables out of my testing at the track ..

maverick1441 , see above post .. anyway let me say this , while my ETs don't change much between summer and winter air ( about a tenth or maybe a just a bit less ) My MPH has some very big swings between summer and winter .. I can see 159 MPH in summer heat and 164 MPH in fall .. My ETs goes from 8.50 to 8.43 ..Keep in mind at my track in the summer we have a head wind and in the winter we have a tail wind .. The track runs north to south .. There are times where it's a cross wind ..But mostly north or south ..We do have to figure all this in on our run data..

The shell 89 I use is listed as up to 10% corn juice .. Meaning it could be 5% one day and 10% the next day ..

Lee

* Last updated by: Smokinzx14 on 9/18/2013 @ 8:09 PM *

Smokin didn't I see you post somewhere before that your using Mobil One 0w-20 car oil? I read so many reviews about guys running this oil without problems that I decided to give it a shot. I know this sounds terribly elementary but my problem may simply be with my oil. If weather permits this weekend I will dump this 0w Mobile One and go back to the Kawasaki molasses that the bike came with. I have some Maxum 0w-20 on the way for testing as well. I'm planning on testing this weekend with the aforementioned molasses and watching my mph. If my mph immediately returns I may stick with that oil for a bit before switching to the Maxum. I suppose the reason that I am so diligently searching for these lost mph is that I have beaten and tied my personal best 1/8 E.T. from my personal best 1/4 ticket on several occasions and simply can't back half hard enough to duplicate it. For instance... On an average ticket of mine I trapped 146.96 on the big end and 123.25 on the short side. That's 23.71 mph! That is horrible horrible back half mph. That sounds like a sick 1000 back half, not a 2012 zx14. I should be back halving damn near 30 or better. Hell you put down a 29 mph back half short shifting. You see what I mean? My paranoia is well founded is it not?

Added: What's your weight and sprocket combo Smokin?

* Last updated by: maverick1441 on 9/19/2013 @ 8:03 PM *

So it wasn't the oil. I switched back to the Kawi non-synthetic. I also installed a PC5 with a Brock's pump gas tune (same as Smokin's), Brock's slipper clutch eliminator with his shimmed clutch springs, pulled my secondary flies, and switched back to my 40t rear sprocket that I ran my previous best with (9.16). The mods I added should have added a few ponies and shaved SOME ET but that was not the case. Tonight's best played out like this

60'- 1.52
330'- 3.99
1/8- 5.99 @ 125.77
1/4- 9.21 @ 149.55

I am beyond frustrated with this bike. It should mph above 150 even if I run a horrible 6.2x @ 120 or anything faster mph through the 660'. WHY WILL THIS BIKE NOT BACKHALF! The above pass netted a 23.78 mph backhalf.... That alone makes me want to vomit. I'm looking my bike over for an anchor that I may have missed. I'm going to swap the drop-in fuel pump for $60 and if that doesn't net any gains I'm going to pull the motor mounts, pivot her down, and yank the head off of Venom. I'm tired of playing games and this bitch is going to backhalf if I have to build her from the ground up.

Have you had ur ecu checked out and what's going on in it verified??? I have seen several flashes done by others that don't even have the safety map correctly flashed out. I know Guhls has a great reputation. Mistakes do happen though. Maybe whomever flashed ur ecu didn't get it right. I bring this up because it seems you have chased down everything else. Except that. Worth checking, might be the 'anchor' you are missing.

This guy still had his top speed limiter in and nothing was actually done. Still stock.

It's an interesting concept. I actually have sent it back once more after the initial flash. Originally I had him(in addition to the full flash) add a fueling map through the ECU for my full system, but after a few weeks of running it that way I decided that I wanted to return to stock fueling. Perhaps when it was flashed back the safety mode was snuck back in instead of only rewriting the fuel tables...... You may be on to something C. Although it does retain its KTRC settings and I can confirm that my limiter is 500 rpm above factory, I can't actually "SEE" what else is going on with timing and such. I'm going to ship it off to Don in the morning. Thanks for the input.

Yeah bud, I was trying to pm ya about it. Ya gotta turn on ur private messages under ur profile bud. I jut being goin over everything in my head about ur bike and I know dang well it should be a little faster. You have run down the mechanical lists of things that needed checkin. That leaves the only other part of ur bike that has been touched by human hands. The ecu. People make mistakes. Only other thing that I could think of bud. And if ya got some sort of a swip swap thing with fuel maps and ur tune etc, she might just need her brain sorted out. Often ya smack a bitch up side the head and she will act right, know what I'm sayin?

* Last updated by: Cblast on 9/29/2013 @ 9:39 AM *

Maverick needs a cblast flash. That WOT's this breaks down to killa!

The drag strip is the best place to compare these flashes.
Then there can be no argument with the results or horsepower claims.
I'm still trying to get mine to make all its horsepower at the track.
There is something going on with it. Back out on the weekend for another shot.
It will only run 108 to 1/8 then 136 1/4.