Quick question, with the potential answer being the most obvious because yes, I'm an over-thinker.

Regarding the Engine Ice product, I see there are 3 "flavors" to choose from: Motorcycle, ATV, and Snowmobile/Winter. Considering I live in northern Colorado, where it was a balmy -18 F this morning. I wonder if there's any reason AGAINST using the Snowmobile/Winter product for yearly use given my locations proclivity to be stupid cold and equally stupid hot from time to time. I'm only one week in to being a ZX14r owner, and have no idea of the PO maintenance schedule (she does have only 14k miles) and this product seems to be the clear winner for this engines requirements when I do a coolant flush/change shortly.

Thoughts?

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Buy a cheap coolant tester so you can gauge both cold and hot ratios. Brake and coolant flushes are every two years for the standard maintenance intervals.

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Thanks Hub, I appreciate that bit of feedback, but I still have a lingering question about the Engine Ice type I should get for here - if there is any real drawback to the "winter" flavor over the branded specifically for motorcycles.

IME, all fluids and filters are replaced once a new used bike makes its home in my stable. That way I KNOW where the intervals are.

"edit" I think I'll hold on this until I can chat with my Local Kawi shop and see what their take is. I see Rook is a big fan of the Kawi branded stuff, and I respect that stance.

* Last updated by: DTTyson on 1/17/2024 @ 8:59 AM *

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but I still have a lingering question about the Engine Ice type I should get for here

Engine ice makes a blend that meets anti-freeze spec. It's like 40 bucks shipped, where a prestone brand at walmart would be 12 bucks out the door.

Ice is more for closed course racing having it blended with less slippery. I'm in Cali so hot means it never overheats when stopping for lights or heavy traffic using plain coolant. The 14 does not overheat, meaning blows a head gasket kind of heat. That's just using plain coolant. The temp bars may rise, but they come right down when the bike moves again.

If it's a coolant type, not racing, it should work no problem. Either way, I'd still have that 6 dollar tester just to make sure it wont freeze past -18F.

Signed,
Stay Stock Club

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Roger that Hub, and thanks! and since I'm not planning on racing this beast, thats good beta.

Signed,
Sorta Stock Club

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This topic keeps coming up over and over. There are two things to ask...
Is the BIKE running hot, for example blowing coolant out of the overflow ?
Or does everyone THINK the bike is running hot ? I've mentioned before that this was an issue on the
first Ninja 900. Everyone was freaking out about how hot it was. Temp gauge always near the Max line.

Kawasaki fixed it the next year... By adding a resistor to the gauge wire so the temp gauge read lower.

In my opinion, this is a Non Issue.

Mad

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Sorta (ha) goes something like this:

Well, there it is the day I picked it up (December 5, 2023). Drove 2400 miles round trip from Herrin, Il to Alamogordo, NM.

39,000 miles on it and I'm the 3rd owner. The second owner purchased it with around 3400 miles on it.

Has a full service history and anything that needed replacing in those 39,000 miles was replaced (rectifier, radiator, TPS, etc...)

This was a quote taken today [new member] at a Ducati site. Got a bug up my ass about this duc mystique. After a year or two researching how dependable these are, you are not about to hear/read any of those failed parts on the 14. I more washed my hands of the brand.

Close to 30k on my bike and it's been nothing but spark plugs and fluid change outs. Mile per mile on the 14 is why I call this bike bulletproof.

* Last updated by: Hub on 1/17/2024 @ 10:57 PM *

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Madd:
My question is only pertaining to the choice of coolants based on my region, and if there is anyone that had feedback on such.
From what I've read, I see that the ZX14R does not have overheating issues when maintained correctly. I'm more concerned about brand performance as I don't want to ruin this rig inadvertently due to poor research.

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Ill be honest and admit that I tend to get lazy on certain jobs such as changing the coolant. ( I do stay on top of the brakes and oil). I check the overflow bottle every time I ride and, like I said, the bike now has 85,000 miles and is still kicking. In fact I took it on a Track Day last year.

In the years I've owned it, literally the only failure has been one coil. That's it.

Mad

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Madd -
I hope to have that kind of longevity from this machine!

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Alright, I'm diving in. New guy here. At 67 blessed years of age, I guess you could say I'm a well seasoned rider. I just finished my last date on my latest and probably last acquisition of a 2019 ZX14. What a rush!! We are just getting acquainted and I suspect will still be at it through the end of this riding season. Naturally, I followed this temperature topic with great interest. Like some who opined, I tend to think there may be nothing wrong and these bikes are operating at the temperatures they were designed for. On the other hand, adding a resistor to the gauge wire seems like a poor answer regardless that it was done by the OEM. In my case with a Gen2 bike, I can at least see an actual digital temperature displayed rather than the bars which are only analogs for hot and hotter. I suspect like other topics in bike and car forums everywhere, this one will continue to live forever similar to the kings of universal questions: "What is the best oil.." or, "What is the best oil/air filter or tire?". Nevertheless, I simply have to ask especially those who hold that there is/may be a hot/overheat problem: Why has no one simply changed the thermostat to a lower temp rated thermostat? Afterall, adding fans (for first gen) and experimenting with different coolants are all straight forward solutions but hasn't seemed to have killed this issue. Aside from lacking info corelating part number & temperature rating, why has changing thermostats not been attempted? I'll step aside now and look forward to the incoming. Cheers!

Mr MB I would put an actual temp gauge on it so you could see what the actual temp is. I think the factory temp gauge is scary and make you believe that the cap is gonna blow off.
I worried all the time looking at the factory gauge that I put a 2nd fan on my 2008 ZX14. All it did was cool down faster after the fans came on and I felt all the heat from the fans. Mine would get 1 empty bar away from the top but never past that.
I quit worrying about it.

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It's not too hard to put an aftermarket water temp gauge on the bike. The trick is to find the best location to place the sensor. I had an aftermarket oil temp gauge on mine and I never saw anything alarming. Then again, my Gen1 never ran hotter than one bar above the middle. I don't remember the actual oil temps I saw on the gauge I ha on the bike.

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Sure thing. I suppose it would be a step forward. However, adding a second, third or 10th gauge would only begin to confirm the SYSTEM INDICATED operating temperature is accurate. But, it changes nothing. Adding gauges only asserts by comparison that the indicating system is working properly. Like Mad was saying, IS the engine running hot, "Or does everyone THINK the bike is running hot?". Here I refer to the Good Book (Service Manual) which specifies that the thermostat is fully closed up to ~131 degrees F and begins to open between 136~144 degrees F. At 167 degrees F, the Tstat should be full open 8mm (or more). The fans kick on at 203 degrees F and turn off at 194 degrees F. So, the range between 194 and 203 was considered "HOT" or, "TOO HOT" where cooling assist by the fans was called for. Based on these criteria, if the indicated coolant temp is consistently below or somewhere between 167 degrees F and 203 degrees F, all is well. If your indicated coolant temp is routinely at or above 203 degrees F or, is above 203 degrees F for long periods, especially with the fans on, it means your coolant temp is above normal operating criteria and you may have a problem. (Unless you're running through Death Valley in the summertime).
Having said all that, I come back to the thermostat. Like all systems, these cooling systems were designed with SOME additional margin in order to enable them to meet the performance criteria above. Beyond that, they also have SOME absolute limit to their capacity to throw off heat (which we never discussed). Adding gauges, better coolant or even more fans will not change any of that. A larger capacity radiator would (for example) but is an unlikely solution for the average rider on a hot running bike given the tight quarters for installing such a thing. These are rabbit trails. Again I ask: If your bike is running hot according to the criteria and, after careful competent inspection, no other causes can be found, why not attempt to utilize the remaining marginal design capacity (whatever it consists of) by simply changing the thermostat to one with a lower specified temperature rating?
One last thing... If you've accomplished the oil pump modification including installation of the new oil pump drive gear, I'd like to know what coolant system effects may have been observed? As I understand it, this mod causes both the oil and water pumps to spin faster producing a higher volume of both coolant and oil for their respective systems. Thoughts?

* Last updated by: MB1 on 6/23/2024 @ 1:09 AM *

I was told not to do the high volume oil pump gear mod several years ago. I think the reason was that it's not worth the hp it eats up. There are oil pressure relief valves that open at a lower psi and that alone increases oil flow.

If the stock thermostat sends data to the ECU, that would be a possible reason nobody ever changed to an aftermarket thermostat.

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We have a guy on the ZRX board whos son races a ZX14 that goes into the 8's consistantly and his opinion is just keep the oil full.
If it works for them then good enuf for me.

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I have raced my 14 every ear since I bought it new in 2015 . Now .No oil mod, pump or plate. Only problem was my fault and broke the Star Shift . Regular maintenance with extra oil and filter changes . 29887 Miles as of today with several 2000 mile trips in the mix. I would get on it and ride coast to coast without a care.

Speaking of the shift star, stick with the OEM. I had an aftermarket shift star on my 08 and it was no better than the OEM part. I see the attempt to design the aftermarket part so it rolls between gears smoother but it is no different than stock. The aftermarket part might also be more likely to miss a shift because of the rounded peaks and valleys. The aftermarket part is heavier. The abrupt points on the OEM shift star are more reliable. You don't need "roll, clunk." You need "strain, SNAP" into gear and stay there. It's like brakes in a racing platform, you're better to have ON/OFF instant grab and you feel that one or two degrees of lever to control the brake. You don't want 25 degrees of soft/progressive and search for the right spot. Shift star is the same idea, ON/OFF. OEM is best for the 14. I would try the aftermarket shift star for the Hayabusa though. I think it was smaller diameter. Whatever it was, it looked like a possible improvement for the busa. ZX-14, stay with stock.

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Speaking of the shift star, stick with the OEM. I had an aftermarket shift star on my 08 and it was no better than the OEM part. I see the attempt to design the aftermarket part so it rolls between gears smoother but it is no different than stock.

A good heads up and explanation on the aftermarket vs OEM.

I have pics but to describe it in words is probably adequate. The aftermarket shift star has rounded lobes. The OEM one really looks like an actual star with steep pointed lobes. You can just imagine the OEM shift star is going to click over the lobe and hold more securely for less missed shifts. As far as feel, I couldn't tell any difference. The OEM shift star is lighter too. And if you order ceramic bearings for the detent arm with the aftermarket shift star, that's a waste of money. The ordinary steel bearings spin more freely in both the OEM gear selector arm and the aftermarket gear selector arm with steel bearings. I installed the ceramic one and again, felt no difference.

I would get ceramic bearings for wheels or something that actually is supposed to spin or has some weight or drag on it but if it just a little part that turns a bit, there's no need. There's a convo I'm in on at the org and we have a member with a professional background in the area and he says, ceramic bearings are not actually ceramic, they are steel. They have a special coating on them (electronically adhered I imagine) and it does produce a lot less friction. Lots of people say they can feel the bike roll much easier across the garage floor after ceramic bearings were installed. One comment over on the org paints a vivd picture: 'it's like when you lift a gallon milk jug expecting it to be full but it's actually half full,' the milk jug flies up and you have to stop your arm in mid lift.

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/23/2025 @ 9:33 AM *

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I wouldnt worry about any coolant additives. Some do perform well. Others perform great at draining your bank account. These bikes dont seem to have a cooling issue (Gen 2 at least with the dual rad fans). If anything mine has a heating issue. In the colder months my temp gauge will say 140F on the highway. I run regular Autozone Green coolant. Buy the premixed version for a headache-free formulation. Will not freeze unless you are in extreme climates, in which case you can buy the concentrate and the back of the container will tell you how to mix the concentrate with water.

If you're looking for max performance, the Redline SuperCool is the best you can get, but it freezes at 32F. It is not antifreeze, it is just highly effective coolant. I run this in my intercooler. I have a space heater blowing on my bike in my garage as I type this since I didn't want to winterize...

I haven't ridden my Gen2 enough to make a determination but so far, I haven't noticed the heat the Gen1 made, even with the stock exhaust on my Gen2. I wouldn't say my Gen2 ran cool though. The indicate temp went over 200 pretty often when in stop and go traffic. That's probably why they went with a bar graph on the Gen1, it got so hot you'd crap yourself if you saw the actual temperature.

I've decided to stay away from stuff like engine ice too. I hear it works but I also hear it lacks sufficient anyi-freeze qualities and we need that here in winter. Also, if you put anything in your cooling system other than the recommended coolant, It's a little tricky to eliminate all of it when you change coolant. You have to drain and flush the system and even that introduces an indeterminant amount of distilled water that needs to be accounted for when adding fresh coolant. That's why I never use premixed coolant. There will be at least a cup of almost pure water in the system no matter how well you try to drain it. That will have an effect on the antifreeze and anti-corrosive strength. I actually did a final flush with premixed antifreeze once. I collected it and richened it up with pure coolant. I still had to adjust it after adding it back to the bike. A lot of that coolant got thrown away. I still have to see 5 balls float or I'm not confident in the coolant.

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You have to drain and flush the system and even that introduces an indeterminant amount of distilled water that needs to be accounted for when adding fresh coolant. That's why I never use premixed coolant. There will be at least a cup of almost pure water in the system no matter how well you try to drain it. That will have an effect on the antifreeze and anti-corrosive strength. I actually did a final flush with premixed antifreeze once. I collected it and richened it up with pure coolant. I still had to adjust it after adding it back to the bike. A lot of that coolant got thrown away. I still have to see 5 balls float or I'm not confident in the coolant.

Interesting points, I also was not aware of a tester, I looked them up and
found one that looks like what you're talking about, so will use one in the spring.
My bike runs pretty hot too (2013 for other readers), the coolant is 12 years old,
looks ok but I should do a flush.
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One item that I became aware of with my gold wind, via forums,
is that for some bikes the coolant needs to be free of certain chemical
additives in coolants that will degrade seals and cause water pump leaks.
I've not traditionally worried much about brands in the past, and
still aren't particularly, but I'll by Kawi or Honda specific speck'd products
these days, and often the OEM product just so I don't have to
dig too deep in the specs.
Similarly, with Oil since our clutch and trans and engine lube are
all one, certain 'slickering' (new word) additives will 'supposedly'
cause premature wear on the clutch, friction plates, so in this
case I've just been getting Kawi oil and filter.
Plus, the oil-filter for some vehicles are supposedly
going to have 'grave' consequences when using
the so-called free-flow filters and conversely the filters with
an even smaller micro-filtering*, filter-element,
which will tend to restrict flow.
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*(clean better, but freeze up the engine)

Interesting points, I also was not aware of a tester, I looked them up and
found one that looks like what you're talking about, so will use one in the spring.
My bike runs pretty hot too (2013 for other readers), the coolant is 12 years old,
looks ok but I should do a flush.

You can pick up the five ball miniature turkey baster thing at any auto parts store. That's what I use. It's nice to the bike to change the coolant every couple years. I've heard of people never changing coolant and the bike runs fine. Same with brake fluid. Some people never change it and it still works.

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I've not traditionally worried much about brands in the past, and
still aren't particularly, but I'll by Kawi or Honda specific speck'd products
these days, and often the OEM product just so I don't have to
dig too deep in the specs.

I do the same. If it's made for motorcycles, it's right. If it's made (sold) bt Kawasaki, it has to be right. I buy Kawasaki Aluma-cool and i buy Suzuki coolant for the Hayabusa. It runs for a long time so you're not saving much by pinching pennies or just going with what's available. On the issue of coolant, there are coolants formulated for aluminum engines. A motorcycle specific coolant makes a lot of sense.

Interesting off topic topic: motorcycle engines are aluminum? Why don't they make exhausts out of aluminum? I always thought the answer to that question was that aluminum gets soft at high temperature. So how are they making engines out of aluminum?

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