Two more questions:
Q1. Is it okay to use the bikes tach?
A. Yes. Turn up ears too. Too low an idle pounds the crank. Too high an idle keeps you pushing into the turns.
Q2. Is Engine vacuum sync for idle and small throttle openings?
A. Yes, Flow through a bypass port is from idle to WOT. There is no closing the screws when running, right? So you get this smoothing effect no matter if the screws are closed or slightly open, but in balance with each other. This is not a full turn out kind of carb setting. This is who enters faster to fill the void, so you are better off on the closed needle to 1/4 open. It's not about the ride, it's more about the 'harmonic induced out-of-sync' you want to keep away from the crank. It's not that you don't want a smooth idle or fine control of very small throttle openings, you see that as a given. A good sync IS really what you are trying to accomplish since you took all that time to setup, then struggle at the settings. It's going to make a big diff. Make that strive for perfection.. even smoother still.
Q3. We don't have a master T-body on the 14. They're all adjustable. Which T-body should I use to calibrate the mano?
A. None. The 2-stage uses either 1-4 and sync each other or 2-3, or 1-3, or 2-4. No matter how you look at it, the main plates will dial-in with the center screw; using any two opposed cylinders. The non-adj-mano is auto-adj by its own vacuum pull. In other words, with the tiny restrictor inserts into the hose and each vacuum is non-adjust, the cheaper mano does not have that preset like the one in the video he's using. That video had the new style mano with the pre-setup for the liquid tubes to dial-in on the one cylinder. That's why you take compression to find out how much vac the one has over the other(s), and now you compensate for the lower compression cylinder.
So by leveling the low and high compression main plates, this [off compression between cylinders] will hang the idle up and it slowly comes down. That's with 4 individual slides, but get the idea about too much compression on the one cylinder? With even compression, the throttle is more snappy-crisp, more responsive, if all cylinders are close to the same compression. So see how the one screw or one shaft would have to twist more to let the air move in faster than the other [to compensate]?
Book wise, that says to just move the needles and not the main plates, right?
See my loophole vs book? They one stage you and I double your pleasure, double your fun.