I've read enough of the "stuck bolt" threads to know the answers: penetrating oil, impact driver, blow torch in that order and if neither works, do all three.

Can't get the top tie rod nut to turn. I think it moves just a hair if I reef on it but I'm sure that is just the bolt sliding inside the joint. I have soaked it with a rag saturated with penetrating oil and now gave it a shot of DeeCreep. Next is the impact if I can get my hands on one.

Any other tips on how to get this thing off ?

I have not tried the lower tie rod bolt. Would removing the tie rod bolt from the bottom joint work just as well as the top one if I am taking off the rear shock?

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/21/2014 @ 4:00 PM *

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I don't see why not....Just be careful when ya pop that lower one out....that shock 'may' want to expand a bit...

"I think it moves just a hair if I reef on it"....sounds more like the wrench is starting to round off those edges....just sayin.Good luck Rookster....you'll get er...it WILL come out.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 9/21/2014 @ 5:15 PM *

Move the farthest wrench so when it moves, it hits into the tire or use a block so as to stop it. Yeah-yeah, the wrench in hand is pretty, but now you take a big rubber mallet and whack the wrench as you hold it in place and the other wrench stays put as you whack it. Yeah-yeah, then take a steel hammer and whack the shaft so as not to cave in the wrench box end. If it's open end then whack the end. ONE good one!

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Just be careful when ya pop that lower one out....that shock 'may' want to expand a bit...

Na, I have the bike on a swingarm stand. The rear suspension is at 0 load. You see I removed the bottom shock absorber bolt already and it didn't move a bit. I have the rear wheel supported on some books but I actually had to lift up on the swingarm with one hand to get the bottom bolt to slide out easy.

"I think it moves just a hair if I reef on it"....sounds more like the wrench is starting to round off those edges...

Think you were right, Grn. prolly didn't have the wrench on there square that time + it was a 12 point, not a 6. I think I could use the nut again but the book says replace it. I see why. Mine is looking kinda chewed up.

Move the farthest wrench so when it moves, it hits into the tire or use a block so as to stop it.

proud to say I ended up thinking just the same way as you, Hub. I was going to prop the wrench against the tire with a chunk of wood in between but then I thought of a different way...my old handy-dandy Craftsman floor jack! I held the wrench on the bolt square and jacked up to the bottom end of the wrench. Then I got my trusty 24" breaker bar, extension and 6 point 19mm socket. I heard a couple scary CRACKs as the nut broke loose but it worked perfectly.

You know, we talked about the twist in the axis of a wrench when you turn on a bolt and that the twist increases with the extra leverage of a socket or even more with an extension. This is true but the opposite also applies. With that long lever you have sticking out, there is a fulcrumm to hold your free hand against to keep the socket square on the nut. You don't have that with a box end and I notice even those twist a little when you are pulling hard. The only wrench that won't twist at all would be a perfectly straight handled wrench without an offset head.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/21/2014 @ 7:05 PM *

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The nut change in the book is to cover their corporate ass. Does it spin on and off but hangs up on the steel thread where that spring washer like locker loader begins to lock up the threads? Then torque to spec with a 6-point and spend that nut money on a socket/wrench with the same numbers so that goes back to torque spec or are we 3 chest hairs short of a gorilla grab you can sense a torque by hand? Blue locker for insurance.

Good call on the 12-point, Grn.

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or are we 3 chest hairs short of a gorilla grab you can sense a torque by hand?

Funny you should ask. There's me cracking that nut loose. As a matter of fact, I am quite the anthropoid. The not quite so naked ape wrench jocky, if you will.

Then torque to spec with a 6-point and spend that nut money on a socket/wrench with the same numbers so that goes back to torque spec

I thought you might say that, Hub. Already equipped with the 6 point socket and I'm sure I can get it to fit an appropriate torque wrench. Think I'll pass on the loktite. That sucker was on there and if it comes off as hard the next time, LokTite might make it a nightmare. I'll say this though, the nuts that came off hard the first time (even when the bike was new) never seem to be as hard to remove after I've torqued them to spec. I think Kaw over-torques some of them. Like that rear axle nut...and the sprocket nuts. ...or maybe it's just those nuts with the lock blade on them bite REAL hard the first time..like this tie rod nut and shock mounting nut I just took off.

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