Hi guys. Can anyone recommend the best chain for the ZX14R?

I run EK 530ZZZ...

Did the research. EK ZZZ. Same weight as OEM but a lot stronger. I have only adjusted mine once in about 4 years. Make sure you get the proper pitch which is 530. Get the one with the lightening holes--not the one with the fancy side plates---the holy one is lighter---we're talking an ounce or two but it's rotating mass.

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/5/2016 @ 7:22 PM *

Thanks Rook and Arek

Where is the best place to purchase one of these?

I would just do a search online and grab one wherever you find it cheapest. Be aware that they may come in a few colors--gold for sure, chrome, maybe. IDK if you would find any other color. Also, be sure to order one that is long enough. Count the pins on your stock chain and that's what you need for stock wheelbase/stock gearing. It's okay to get one that's longer because you can remove links but you can't use one that's shorter--unless you added some links to it which I would avoid doing. The link I posted was for the Gen1 so the info regarding chain length may not apply to the gen2.

Also a chain tool if you're doing this yourself. Don't get a cheapie or it may break--these chains are tough. I think my chain tool was like $400 You can probably get a good one for less but don't go for the little one or it won't handle the force required for a big chain.

Also, have a look at your sprockets. If your chain is worn, sprockets probably are too. The front is likely to be worse than the rear. If you go with a good chain, might as well go with new sprockets. On the other hand, I'm sure I will be changing sprockets with my EK a second time pretty soon. This chain will easily outlast one set of sprockets so your call if you want to squeeze the last few miles out of your old sprockets. You will need to change the sprockets a couple more times with this chain anyway.. if you own the bike long enough. Also consider that a new chain will accellerate ware on any sprockets for a period until they ware in together.

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/6/2016 @ 4:19 AM *

Good morning Rook,
Man I sure appreciate your tutorials.
Do the EK chains come with the master links or do you need to order them separately? What is the difference between the ZZZ chain and the ZVX2 or ZVX3 chain?

Always appreciated.
Dave

Top o' the mornin to ya.

What I was told about master link chains is this: For dirt bikes, only. These need the clip type master link so the chain can be removed and cleaned easily and often.. sport bikes that are a lot heavier and often move a lot faster do not usually use clip master links. The chance of them coming unclipped on a sport bike is a risk that probably has more serious consequences than an off road chain fly-off. So the the kins of masterlink like I used to see on my bicycle was out when I picked chains.

The EK chains do not have a master link per se. All links are the same but the spot where you join the ends has special hollow pins that mushrooms into a rivet when you squeeze it in a chain tool. It is easy to find it because all the other pins have a solid head. There's pics of this in the tutorial. Other chains like DID have similar joining methods.

You can buy a special joining link that has pins that are held in by a nut you tighten against the side plate instead of riveting the pin. This makes chain removal easy and you could use this system to add or reduce length if you were going from stock wheelbase to swingarm extensions or different sprocket size or something like that. It seems more risky than a clip masterlink to me because how tight do you think you're going to torque those nuts? Not too tight or you have a kink in the chain where the master link is. So you go with nuts snug and hope they don't come off/ This is for drag racing where you use non-oring chains that require frequent removal and thorough cleaning and the bike only runs a quarter mile before you check everything over. I would avoid these screw on master links unless your bike is a dedicated race bike (and most of them don't bother with the non-oring chain cuz the tiny reduction in friction isn't worth the extra maintenance).

I can't tell you if there is much difference between the ZZZ and the ZVX2 or ZVX3. One ad I see claims the ZVX2 has lightening holes but the picture shows side plates without lightening holes. I'm sure what sets the SVX3 apart is that it comes in a wide color selection. I don't know how it compares to the ZZZ for strength. Chains are rated by tensile strength so you might search that out for the various chains. I can tell you, I was very interested in getting a blue ZVX3 but for some reason, I decided against it and went with a chrome ZZZ. Probably I had found that the tensile strength was lower with the ZVX3 or maybe I just decided not to chance it. I find it's often the best to just follow the crowd on choosing mods/parts. Others have already gone through the research. BTW, the color of the ZVX3 is paint. Probably pretty high quality baked on. Gold chains are painted and they seem to look good for the life of the chain.

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/6/2016 @ 11:16 AM *

I've used EK ZZZ chains on a good number of bikes and they hold up real well, even with turbo's.
I believe the old ZZZ has been superseded by the new 3d.
I've used one of them and it too is a great chain.
Rook.....it's even lighter...:)

Thanks for the info Rook.
I was looking around for info on some of the sites and it seems the ZZZ is discontinued and being replaced by the ZVX3 with a tinsel of 11,100. I didn't see anything on the 3D. I was looking at a ZVX3 in metallic green for $139 on amazon. Amazon has a RK chain service tool kit for $100 that says it does the 40,50 and 60 series chains with rivet tool.

If you want a 3d, look harder and be prepared to spend in excess of $200.00.

the ZVX3 with a tinsel of 11,100. I didn't see anything on the 3D.

I had the same conundrum when shopping for my ZZZ. The tensile strength was not listed if I recall...but as mentioned earlier, my rule is follow the crowd blindly. God knows you will spend 6x as much in your personal time used researching what has already been researched by others. I mean, ask questions like you are but no need to reinvent the wheel. So I just bought the ZZZ. Think it was about $180 which was a great deal someone found for me. Probably a leftover because it was chrome.

the ZVX3 with a tinsel of 11,100.

Amazon has a RK chain service tool kit for $100 that says it does the 40,50 and 60 series chains with rivet tool.

You mean the one that looks like a C-clamp in the red box? NOPE. that's the one I told you to watch out for. I've heard of people using them but some reported the tool broke or almost broke or stripped. ...and you want to make sure you get your rivets squashed properly which takes a lot of torque. If you want to go cheap, you might try the one linked right below, maybe. It lacks a handle but you would use a wrench to hold the large flats while closing the jaw with a ratchet on the smaller flats. I think I heard one member here used this and liked it but I do not know if it was a DID chain or what it was he put on the bike.

http://www.amazon.com/D-I-D-Chain-Rivet-Tool-KM500/dp/B00LPUGWFG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1459976021&sr=8-5&keywords=RK+chain++tool

I got the heavy duty EK chain tool and had no problems at all. It is a life time investment at the price it costs...seriously though, it could save your life that you installed your chain without question, exactly as should be. I doubt rivets would come out easy --it's not touch and go-- you have to apply a great deal of pressure just to press them through the plates and then a slight enlargement of the head to keep it from ever pulling through....but it's not a good thing to play the odds on. Wraps around the countershaft and chews a hole in the motor or your wheel locks---almost never flies off harmlessly.

If you like one stop shopping----I don't think you'll find it much cheaper elsewhere.

http://www.amazon.com/EK-PROFESSIONAL-CHAIN-TOOL-69-9935/dp/B00EXFYEHS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1459976468&sr=8-4&keywords=EK+chain+tool

That small RK tool or the Motion Pro or similar ones...those would be ok for dirtbikes with much smaller chains but not ours. I'd avoid it. You might end up busting it and buying a high quality one after all.

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/6/2016 @ 3:25 PM *

Rook,
Thanks for your feedback. I enjoy doing things myself and do understand the importance of quality tools. They are a lifetime investment.

I don't really need a new chain yet but I do want to change up gearing a little like you have done so will need the longer length.

Hank,
Didn't have to look to hard to find the 3d for $161 free shipping. They are coming down in price from the full retail of $270.

It is still gonna hurt with chain, sprockets and tool.

It is still gonna hurt with chain, sprockets and tool.

'Swhat I thought but remember the cost of shop time. I'm sure bringing it in would be a lot more expensive and you wouldn't have the tool. Also, you never know what kind of work you might get + they'd probably keep the bike for a couple weeks or more.

David, you have strong Google...lol
If you can buy that chain for $161.00 delivered, you oughta do it.
IMHO, best chain available for HP streetbikes.

The EK ZZZ has been superceded by the ZVX3. You may find a ZZZ out there somewhere and it's a great chain, but when I looked, the only ZZZ available was by the barrelfull which is more than a person could use in a lifetime.

Damn… who thought getting a new chain would be so interesting! Thanks for all the feedback guys. So the way I understand it I should be looking for an ZVX3 with a pitch of 530 and should have lightening holes. David where did you get that great deal from?

Damn… who thought getting a new chain would be so interesting! Thanks for all the feedback guys. So the way I understand it I should be looking for an ZVX3 with a pitch of 530 and should have lightening holes. David where did you get that great deal from?

I found both the ZVX3 for $138 and the 3D for $161 on Amazon with free shipping. I did some more looking with a Google search and found the 3D for $154 with free shipping.

These chains are longer than stock so you will need a chain tool. Rooks link also goes to Amazon for a good chain tool for $187.

Don't worry about the lightening holes. That is an indication of a lightweight chain but apparently not a defining characteristic. It was commented just a few posts back that the D3 (no lightening holes) is lighter than the ZZZ it superceded. The ZZZ and the D3 are very strong chains and that alone probably makes them more likely to be heavier. The ZZZ was same weight as stock or maybe a hair lighter. I would not be too surprised if a lighter duty chain without lightening holes might be lighter (maybe). There's no published info on weight from the manufacturer so unless you find something on a forum, you're on your own.....just you and your kitchen scale.

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/7/2016 @ 8:04 PM *

Advertisement picks for the 3d show holes in the inner gold plates and the outer black plates with beveling. Sharp looking chain. The ZVX3 shows holes in the inner plates only. Is it marketing?
I don't know.
Chain and sprockets may not be in the cards for me this year. Looked at my rear tire today after a sweet ride and its looking like this year is new rubber and I need a riding suit to do some track days at The Ridge Motorsport Park.
Maybe next year, but the EK 3d looks like the way to go.

I've always used either EK or DID chains. Personally I'm more concerned with strength and longevity than lightening holes or plate colour! I ride in all weathers so I use an auto chain oiler so I can pretty much 'forget' chain maintenance, save for an occasional wipe with a paraffin or diesel soaked rag and tension check. I'd rank chain choice and replacement as important as brake pads. I've seen a nearly new GSXR750 written off with a hole punched in the crank case by a broken chain.

* Last updated by: pegscraper on 4/8/2016 @ 12:48 PM *