There have been a few questions about this in the past and some relate to 'choke' idling RPM. On my first 14 I could alter idle RPM with the cable under the tank. With later models I read it is either or both the ECU or an air valve that controls idle. At 1100revs mine is as per the book but I don't like the lack of engine braking compared to my earlier model. I have checked for binding cables and all seems OK. is there a way to slow her up to say 950 without an ECU job?

With later models I read it is either or both the ECU or an air valve that controls idle.

is there a way to slow her up to say 950 without an ECU job?

but I don't like the lack of engine braking compared to my earlier model.

I personally can't see what difference 1100 -> 950 would have on engine braking?

Most of my engine braking is in the 5-7,000 rpm range.

Maybe trying down shifting.

2012+ has shorter gearing too, I believe? 17/41 -> 17/42 if you feel diff, must be in the trans ratios?

Or maybe drop your counter shaft a tooth 17 -> 16 that will give you a little better
engine braking. Not sure how it would effect the electronics though.

Blocking PAIR valve no effect on idle.

* Last updated by: piken on 4/26/2018 @ 5:03 PM *

Piken states what I was wondering, engine braking is at high rpms on down shifts. What has idle got to to about it?

idle speed is partial throttle. increase idle, flies open a crack.

...but if you are wanting engine braking below 2000 rpm, you are almost stopped anyway. Who rides the bike lower than 2000 rpm?

flies open a crack.

I have noticed in very cold weather, I need to adjust my idle faster on my Gen1. the idle speed I set then goes up a thousand rpm or so when the bike warms up. I'm sure that is from expansion of the metal in the adjuster cable or the flies or something of that sort. Anyway, when the bike is idling fast, yes, I do notice it wants to keep pulling ahead as I am rolling nice and easy to a stop and before i pull the clutch lever. SO, you might say idle speed has some effect on stopping but engine braking, I would say don't engine brake at that low of an rpm. It's stopping rpm, not slowing down rpm.

Spec is 1100 rpm idle. A thousand is fine. Some have suggested going as low as 900 rpm for idle but I heard that pounds the connecting rod bearings which already might be prone to some problems from inadequate oiling. I go with 1000 to soften the clunk into 1st gear. Engine braking is very strong.

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/27/2018 @ 5:07 PM *

Say you have a cable actuator at the clutch safety switch. Ever notice how you slow down and then pull the clutch lever in and the idle drops to normal? I'm saying it electronically returns, not on its own like and old style adjustable cable. Get it?

Then the problem is: how do you pop the switch back to normal so the idle map is out of the loop and the safety switch works with clutch in and clutch lever out. Get it?

Conclusion? You're fucked sans a flash redo. So say the bike returns to under a 1000 rpm. The bike will still push the bike at that idle. If you want engine braking you'd have to set the idle to 0 rpm like a race bike.

The bike will still push the bike at that idle.

yes but very slowly. Use the normal brakes. If he's engine braking up to that point, his brakes will look brand new after 40 years of service.