Battery.
OP said it cranked right up after 10 seconds. That means the cranking amps had no problem turning the motor over. Not the battery.
The injectors were firing but the battery was too weak for the ECM to trigger the coils.
I don't think so. If one is weak, so is the other.
When you released the starter button the voltage went up just enough to fire the coils...
Nor this one too. Once the cylinder stops so does the spark. This is sequential fire so once there is compression, here comes the spark. There is no voltage drop at the crank sensor per say, no firing of a cylinder when the starter button is released.
igniting the raw fuel in the exhaust. Bang.
Now here we agree. So there was spark all this time, but a liquid began a vapor trail and caught up in the pipe when the exhaust was open. So it lit a little bit and had to travel out of that port as a flame front so as to reignite the raw gas vapor shot out of the port when it was condensed and cold to begin with... not a vapor mist.
A cold battery gets a little bit stronger after being placed under a load (the load creates heat)and given a bit of time to recover, and it was enough to start it the next time.
So chemical reaction being part of the heat, doesn't that say the battery is good and can recover to push the amps? Agreed?
The charging system will keep it hot so it starts again...
The charging system is a linear type exchange rate. The higher the spin, the more E is made. So that slow a cranking event won't make any credible heat per say... especially that slow a crank, that short a time to create any measurable heat.
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After laying on the starter for at least 10 seconds and eventually getting a really loud backfire, I got it to start and rode it home today.
This is FI without a diaphragm type fuel assist so working the throttle does nothing. The trick is no throttle, just tap the starter a few times. Time in between means basic science to understand cold starting. Think: solid/liquid/gas. Frozen gas is ruled out, liquid into gas is what to look at. Cold means condensed molecules in liquid form. It sprays out in droplets not a mist. By waiting for the fuel to vaporize in the chamber, you're doing the same thing holding the button down. It eventually started with the excess moving liquid turned vapor. So the trick is to turn the key off each time you bump the starter motor. Why? The relay just turned the headlight on if you sit and wait with the key on. So that's the sequence... Start/off/wait/on/start/off/etc. You have the kinetic heating up upon compression as a helper to vaporize the liquid.
It idled a bit rough at first, but ran better as the bike warmed up
Notice how it fires droplets not a mist. Notice how rough it runs trying to jump from one flame to the next droplet. Notice how the expansion helps flame travel as it has less distance to jump to the fuel mist. That's the hard starting problem. Firing off drops, not a mist. Make sense?
I didn't have any issues with it after it warmed up and rode home as normal.
Therefore, no battery/charging/fuel problem... just condensed fuel trying to fire in a cold chamber.
Given the backfire, that has to be some sort of fuel delivery issue, right?
No. It was the droplets not being close to the spark so out the chamber it went. It began to vaporize, the kinetic finally warmed up the chamber, the flame began out of the chamber, into the port, and the flame lit the unspent in the pipe {purge} of said cranking.
Probably ice in the tank/lines?
No. Think about it... ice does not light up, be it solid/liquid/or gas. Make sense no water in the tank/system?
but reading that they don't like cold weather has me leaning toward the lead-acid route.
For racing sure. For street, lead-acid for now.
* Last updated by: Hub on 12/8/2017 @ 9:00 PM *
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