Hi
Are there any greasing points on the rear suspension of the zx14, if so where and what grease?
Just finding things to do while waiting for the spring

Nope. No grease fittings anywhere. I don't recall the SM even recommending lubing the pivot or the tie rod bolts. I'm sure it wouldnt hurt but I would not disassemble just for that.

A good thing to do is to clean and lube your lever pivots and push rods in the MCs. Also the pivot between the rear brake pedal and rear MC.

Wick up the fluid in the reservoirs if it looks discolored enough. I would not bother to bleed it all out. Crack the bleeders only if necessary. You can get most of the old fluid out just wicking it up in some paper towels. Don't try to sop it up lower than the hole at the bottom of the reservoir or then you might need to bleed.

I can think of more jobs for you if you want.

Check brake pads lately?

Chain wear?...sprockets?

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Rubber parts in brake and clutch hydraulics....wheel, sprocket and brake disk runout...there's a good one.

LOL I think most of the routine maintenance items will be fine if not attended to right on schedule. Timely oil changes and air filter changes are pretty important and I think spark plugs are better off not being let go either.

Rook stop!your making me feel guilty

I need to do all of the aforementioned on both bikes so don't feel bad. I catch the runnout every other tire change which I also need to do on both bikes. Too much time spent on more exotic wrenching....oh well.

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Rook, in one of my previous lives i had an ER-6F a.k.a. Ninja 650
the bike's swing arm axle used to get easily corroded
as such, an important maintenance step was to pull out the axle and coat it with grease
does the ZX14 have a similar issue?

I've never hears of that one. The steering head bearings should be removed and greased as such. There's another one I need to do. If the bike doesn't have too many miles, I'd do the steering play test and if it's smooth, don't worry about it for a while.

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Hi
Thanks for the info guys, do you think if I spray wd40 around the linkages it will eventually dissolve the grease, Im just trying to hold back corrosion, on my dirt bike I used to spray wd40 everywhere!
Are the pivot bolts or whatever they are called going through bushes or bearings?

Thanks

* Last updated by: dave350v8 on 2/27/2018 @ 11:03 AM *

If there is grease in there, I imagine spraying WD on it would tend to dissolve it away. I guess it's a judgement call. What is more important, to keep the grease that might be in there THERE or maybe it's mostly gone anyway and cleaning some dirt away and allowing a lighter oil to penetrate is better. I'd say if it's the latter, you probably are do for disassembly and relube. Light oil penetrates but it's not good for long term lubrication. You'd be spraying WD in there every other time you ride if you rely on that for lubrication. ...or do you have corrosion concerns? That might be a reason to give it a shot. If you ride in a salty environment, it could be more of a priority.

I think I do see a smudge of grease around the bolt head of the bottom pivot. It was a while ago but I believe I did give those a coat of white lithium before installing. Couldn't hurt. The SM doesn't call for maintenance lube or installation lube.

Like any torqued bolt, turn it when you need to. If you don't need to, usually it's best to leave it alone unless you think it might be freezing up and benefit from an occasional breaking loose. I've heard of people doing that with header bolts. Crack it once in a great while and tighten back up. So its your call again. Is it worth the wear on the bolts to take them out? You are supposed to replace each time you remove them. You don'y have to every time but I'd probably definitely replace the second time since the SM calls for it every time. Is it worth it? Is it necessary? Your call.

You could always lube throttle cables. There's a job always worth doing.

Are the pivot bolts or whatever they are called going through bushes or bearings?

Bushings. The part with all three of the lower pivot points (shock, dog bones, frame) has bushings in it. The top pivots (dog bones and shock) are just holes. No bushings or bearings.

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Thanks Rook
Yea good info, think I will use it sparingly around the bolts, not drown it in wd40, using the wd40 to clean it as well, cant see much harm really!

Thanks again

Simple Spray:
Use white lithium grease type in a spray can. Gravity is your friend is to spray one way only.
1. Foot peg pivots.
2. Pass peg pivots.
3. Side stand pivot.
4. Brake lever pivot.
5. Clutch lever pivot.
6. Rear brake pivot.
7. Rear brake pivot rod.

Grease:
8. Front axle shaft. Why?
9. Rear axle shaft. Because there is condensation-electrolysis of the wheel center collar seizing the axle to the collar's tube. More heated bearings/brake discs warming up (rather than rain), which then cools off, and now that air tunnel in the center collars looks like stalactites dripping off the ceiling of the collar.

High Maintenance = Longevity:
Remove the pivoted parts listed above.
Use copper color type anti-seize and coat the pivot bolts.
Clean up with paper towels (aka PITA) once assembled and tightened.

Grease/Lube Option:
10. Drive chain calls for gear oil/chain lube/grease.
a. 90w is distributed with a pump type-long tubed snout oil can. Magic mark one link, then lube between links, and both sides of the roller. That's over 100 pin pivot points and so many rollers before the magic mark comes around.
b. Chain lube is hard to distribute when its under pressure. But a few spins of the wheel can saturate the links/pins a lot faster.
c. Grease has the chain full of distribution. The hand can pressure the grease into the rollers than would heavy gear oil moving that far in, or fast dripping lube dropping faster to the floor than moving horizontally.

Wadie miss?

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Cleaning off the rear rim after riding lol.And up under that left side rear indicator panel;)May as well clean off the left sidewall while one's at it...

Great info again, I could write a book tonight on it, much appreciated!!