The finished product. Strip and go. I bring you Mule 4-02(closed loop)...

http://s149.photobucket.com/user/wazfst1tyme/media/DSCN0244_zpsgz2qsquj.jpg.html

* Last updated by: Hub on 9/1/2017 @ 10:08 PM *

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Link does not work for me.

Go to photobucket, write in my user name,'wazfst1tyme' w/out parentheses and see what goes? Tried to set the clock but a code is set [tip over sensor] and stops me from scrolling to the clock from language. Then, held the upper button down for awhile and the dash screen changed color. Held the button again and the screen darkened back. Read the o'manual and showed that option. Maybe they did address the sun's glare. Still haven't ridden the bike yet to test.

Soon, I'll chase the ECU and see if the non-02 ECU plugs in and works. I'm in no rush with this heat going on for weeks now. It's finally cooling off.

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So I turn the key on without the tip over sensor attached. I now have a code. I threw some miles on it this weekend. I could not scroll to language to chase the clock set. I then took another computer to see if it would start and no it wouldn't. But I could scroll to language and could set the clock.

Heads Up:
Conclusion? Seems you need to have the code cleared to enter the other modes. This sucks just like I found out about a drone company that can turn your drone off at the company location. They control your bike (drone) and you need to deal with the dealer to clear the code. So now I'll try a loophole and let you know if it works.

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Well, I couldn't test my idea. I've been killing the bike(s) at traffic lights since I can remember. When I worked on cars decades ago I knew about cycling the key to clear codes. It just took about 14 fobs give or take to clear the codes this way. Needless to say, I met my quota and the code cleared itself today. Don't ask me to count how many times, but I turned the key on and the CEL (check engine light) logo finally turned off. So while I was waiting for a light, I played with the mode switch and could now toggle into 'language' and chase the clock. I also noticed the cornball taillight happy face is now back.

So say code wise I now see the sequence. Because I had the tip over disconnected, the code set, the dash came on immediately and didn't cycle thru the taillight screen. This now tells me the dash bypasses the startup happy face: Huston, you have a code.

And to see if you have a code behind the dash, just hold the top toggle at the mode switch. It will cycle to a display, then pull finger away and hold down again to retrieve the code number. I'm sure it works for this last gen ('16-'17). Don't recall the other way on my '13, but most likely it may be the same sequence for the top switch. First gen is hold both trip and mode down simultaneously.

Okay, hit about 200 miles on the clock today. It never saw 4k once and probably never will; until the book calls for the 6k rpm limit at the 600 mile mark. I'm running F1 and this baby has a slight lag and then stutters. Don't know if I'm this side of a quick hard hammer away from the light or I'm sensing the subthrottle calling the shots. I have to come up with a new [sub] transfer shaft. The meguyveer mod didn't survive the crash. I sure hope it's not the closed loop that is messing with the driveability or mother tea has a 'field fix.' Once I lock the subs open I'll know the diff. Then I'm back to some other code being set and here we go again... maybe.

We have any 2016-2017 owners noticing a stumble upon takeoff from a dead stop? And that means any euro bike with a second gen engine. I'm sure you're closed loop way before they closed the gate on the US models these last 2 years.

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stumble as in, "dip in power" or stumble as in "momentary abrupt loss of power." I have noticed the latter on my 08 at very small TPS only--just taking off low rpm. I believe I've always had it. Last test rides, I did not notice it at all so it comes and goes I guess. Last year at the end of the season, it came on worse as the engine got hotter but this year, few rides I did, not a thing out of the ordinary. I thought it was fueling related perhaps but now I'm thinking clogged fuel filter since it sat in the tank soaked in Seafoam gas all winter and that would have cleaned things out. Surely you would not have fuel filter cloggage at this early stage.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/15/2017 @ 5:50 PM *

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No, Rook, it's more like the hidden k-skid computer DTT sequence. I locked open the subs and it still does it. Not as abrupt but I understand it better now and it's the triggering there of. It might be the compression change between a new bike and the old, but damn, this bike feels quicker and smoother on accel.

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Changes may be subtle.They're always doing something.

I locked open the subs and it still does it. Not as abrupt but I understand it better now and it's the triggering there of.

My Gen1 reacted exactly the same with subs removed as it did with subs in. I bet you'd smooth that right out with a fueling correction. I almost can't tell the flies open lag is there anymore. There could also be a timing retard to go along with the flies. That's on the list for next season. Unfortunately, they don't make a gauge to tell you when you're running dangerously advanced like they do for AFR. All you got is the word of the guy you trust the most.

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So yesterday morning I changed things back to stock. First gen you could pull a sensor, set the code on the dash, plug it back in and within seconds you see the dash clears the code. This one keeps flashing a code and the only way to remove it is to head to the dealer or key fob so many times to clear the code. Oh well...

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guess Kawi doesn't want someone 'clearing codes' till it's 'fixed'.That's kind of a hassel.

I think it's more like the cars but not a full learn. Sure enough, the code cleared after so many key fobs. Full learn is that which has a relay in between the ECU and battery. I think Triumph has that type system. So I'm assuming 2016 and on have this type key cycle interval. Don't get paranoid if say you unplugged something, ran the bike and it spit a code.

So at 666 miles I dropped the OEM oil and added a blend of break-in and full syn. Might be a fresh engine and/or the closed loop system, but damn, this baby is smoother and quicker than my '013.

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Yup.It's odd how a new bike can feel so damn good.Compared to something 'earlier'.The 14's are very well setup from the factory.Almost deters someone from doing ANYTHING different to em.After the ECU flashing and adding a more breatheable exhaust,and PCv,my 13 wasn't as smooth as my friend's 14 that was stock.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/3/2017 @ 9:04 PM *

So yesterday I cut the filter open. Hard break-in I could see large chunks of metal/brass between the pleats. This time around the metal was smaller than say the size of table salt.

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Sounds good Hub.I've always gone the 'almost book' route.Never had any issues.Few 'open her up' runs,but not like to redline or anything.After the 500 mile mark,then a few into say 8-9k briefly.Until that final 500 is done.I don't think you can go wrong following the mfg's procedure.
'Ride it like you stole it'(which I wouldn't know anything about)to me just seems asking for problems down the road.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/8/2017 @ 10:45 AM *

No problems with the busa at 11000 miles and I redlined it 3 times in a row after it ran for 5 minutes with about 1.5 miles on the clock.

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I took it easy for the first 150 miles, but since then I have ran the living hell out of the bike with no problems--knock on wood.

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Few 'open her up' runs,but not like to redline or anything.

During the break-in I let her rip but never past 4k for under 400 miles and under 6k... after the 600 break-in. I have to run this rpm until 1000 miles are met. Here's where I'm going with this. So within this 666 mile window I ran the OE window level or wherever they leveled it. Also, I inspect the level [cold] with the OE's center stand, not the 'hold upright on both wheels' suggestion.

At the 666 mile interval I had that seat of the pants feel with the bike. I could feel the difference between years as stated. Now, I changed the oil with said mix. I ran the bike and when I topped it off, I leveled it off [warmed]. Then I take it for a ride a few times and the last time I felt sporty, the bike didn't.

I'm perplexed thinking, 'what is with this change in accel?' I'm riding it again, and it just was not there as before. Here's where I mentioned me feeling a loss in power with the '08, the hard break-in oil eater. I had no codes, the bike ran flawless, the only change was no oomph. Call it instinct but I take a look in the window and find no level. I top off the '08's crankcase and low and behold... More OOMPH comes back! Who knew?

Segway to this scenario and I now overfilled the '017's crankcase. Are you taking notice I have this assfactor of both low and high levels = No OOmph? Who knew? So I lower the level [cold] and find the factory's 'sweet spot' level. Now my mind thinks, 'where is this exact sweet spot?'

Only your dyno knows for sure. Imagine, run after run, a few ounces here, a 1/2 a quart there... There is your bike's sweet spot. Since you don't have money to tweak oil levels, the 'ballpark level' is between the window or a smidgen below, but above the lower boss in the cover... Now you know.

* Last updated by: Hub on 10/21/2017 @ 4:32 PM *

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I've read that some people fill above the top line to the top of the glass for racing. I believe this is to help ensure there will always be oil at the pickup during high rpm operation. I fill to top line on my 08. Never noticed a change in power and I used to need to add fairly often. I experienced bottom line to top line back to back many times. Higher oil should eat hp but low oil obviously risks starvation.

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I run mine(both)just a bit above the centerline.Manual says...'in between' upper and lower level lines.That could mean a few things.Only your ass knows for sure;)

LOL ....or that could be because they know nobody knows how to read the oil level perfectly!

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... people fill above the top line to the top of the glass for racing.

You need to keep this to yourself. Promise?
If you think about it, what if you fill the oil and the crank throws are partially submerged in oil. And don't think of the oil flinging off the throws at speed, just look at the static part of the theory. Why would you want to add oil so as to drag more parts at some limit line?

I believe this is to help ensure there will always be oil at the pickup during high rpm operation.

Ahhh, no. Look at how the engine case evolved. The sump now hangs down deeper and away from the crank throws so there is less drag {more HP} away from the 'partially submerged.' And so too is the pickup tube to the oil pump. More oil won't help being that deep and having lots of oil there [sitting static].

I fill to top line on my 08. Never noticed a change in power and I used to need to add fairly often.

'Fairly often' seems to be a hard break-in event when new. Yes or no, did you beat it from day one? The change in power comes from decades of customer bike test rides. First rule of thumb before racking the bike... "Duplicate customer's complaint.' Slow test ride before and after test ride; sort of speeds up the curve from the average rider. Especially having someone sit on the same bike year after year, where this kind of 'grows an assfactorashithe fuck just happened?'

I experienced bottom line to top line back to back many times. Higher oil should eat hp but low oil obviously risks starvation.

Yes, the higher the more drag, and no, low is the HP gain with less parts moving in the oil is more air in the mist of the windmilling effect inside that small space.

Make sense?

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'Fairly often' seems to be a hard break-in event when new. Yes or no, did you beat it from day one?

Nope the 14 was ridden like a cruiser for the first 500 miles. I was too scared of it to ride even remotely hard. I didn't run it hard until maybe 3000 miles. That first tire lasted me 11,000 miles, remember? The oil adds were mostly from a head cover gasket leak. I started noticing that around 5000 miles.

Yes, the higher the more drag, and no, low is the HP gain with less parts moving in the oil is more air in the mist of the windmilling effect inside that small space.
Make sense?

Yeah, windage. That's what I always thought but who knows what these race people are thinking? I'd love to see what happens inside the oil pan through a window.

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I own a Vicycle. This thing wheelies without effort. Toggled to F1, I was off on the side of the road, reentered the lane and a car was right next to me. I grabbed a handful and the front wheel hovered off the ground, bars slightly cocked and straightened out on touchdown. Finally, the kind of bike I'm after. The ktm 1290 will do this all day (tested one), but not as brutal as the 14.

How do I like my torque? More-More-More... (Cash waiting)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=85&v=RlJGrIyt-X8

Lettuce sea: if mother tea is listening.
Trip A: I use this for chain lube intervals.
Trip B: I use this for oil changes.
How about a toggle program for this? This returns the trip setting I also use on occasion.

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Man, time flies. I noticed the last posted date and had to chase this thread on the next page. The place seems busy even if the posts seemed to slow down. I guess I haven't been riding so much lately, but the 02 (code-33) CEL finally turned off. On the earlier models I could plug a sensor back in and watch the code turn off within seconds. Then again, it didn't have k-skid or ABS. Also, I had a dash display and could change just about everything but could not enter 'Language.' So these are the negatives to this toggling vs. codes.

I sort of knew I threw a phantom code that day and knew this thing is too bulletproof to chase a warranty claim for some failed part. So you late modelers need not panic when the code remains after so many key fobs. Eventually the light will turn off and no need to panic... that's if you can decipher a phantom from a hard code... i.e., it did fail!

I'm guessing that memory chip is waiting for so many on/off's, and then it finally flipflops off.

Trivia learned via instinct.

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