Calling all 2nd gen masters! I have a 2014 zx14r and I had a buddy of mine pull the motor because of a suspect shift fork issue. No builders here will touch it without hearing the motor run so I was forced to put motor back in. The engine is in and snug and everything is seemingly connected but... it wont idle and its running extremely rich? How rich? So rich the exhaust caught fire... And of the course the eye burn and heavy fuel smell in the clothes. Id like to think that I'm fairly savvy when it comes to automotive but I'm a noob when it comes to bikes. The bike will start and run on its own for maybe 3-5 seconds then cut off and wont start again like that until it sits. it will run crappy as long as I'm holding the throttle. Seems as though the bike is doing a check or looking for some sort of reference and its not seeing it so its defaulting to rich considering it starting and running perfect for a few secs then shutting down. All fluids are full, every thing is connected and tight. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

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Gen2 no longer uses an idle adjust cable. Gen2 uses vacuum tubes and the ECU for idle control. I'd check the tubes used for the idle>> off the injector body. Doubt it's crossed tubes, but am not familiar with the system [yet]. So say tube timing, and I'm going to assume you did not move the cam timing when the engine was out.

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And... I assume there is no code on the dash, because it would blink at certain areas, or lose the dash with the code as the default screen, until the code is repaired, etc.

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There are a few 14Rs in your area. One test you could try is to swap the ECU for a know good module. Its a used bike, maybe the ECU map is corrupted or maybe there is a power commander hiding somewhere with a bad map in it. Have you tried the easy stuff first?

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@HUB, No DTC's. The engine was not disassembled when it was out of the bike. Only taken out and put back in. There is a possibility that a vacuum line came undone when it was out or when it was being reinstalled I suppose but its super tough to diag that considering where they are and no rich or lean codes. I downloaded the manual but honestly the diagrams are a bit cumbersome to see.

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@Cruderudy, all of the fairings are off so i am pretty sure there is no PC on the bike. It literally ran fine before the motor was pulled aside for the faint noise from the transmission/clutch. Engine wise it was perfect. It has 19,xxx miles on it. Not a terrible amount but not 54,000 like my buddies. Ill have to reach out and see if the computer is the issues and maybe I could swap mine to see, i just know it hasn't been tampered with as long as Iv'e had it. I have checked and rechecked what Ive checked as far are electrical connections but I just cant see all of the vacuum lines so I need to go back there and see of I can locate a bad connection on a vacuum line under the airbox. all of the ones I can see are connected properly per the manual.

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You figure it starts and no codes = Not the ECU. How about a well charged battery and then try starting it again. Can't be a computer learn-process, because once you install the battery it lights right off. So you really can't wipe the ROM's maps.

Got booted off a website the other day. Bike wouldn't start as well when new. Seems the guy let the bike sit for a few weeks. It started and I said it couldn't be the battery because it started the bike. He charged the battery and it lit off like new again. Who knew? Thus the suggestion for a shot in the dark since the bike's been sitting.

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Well, that clears it up a bit. It ran OK before removal except for whatever the issue is and now it runs like shit. So it was put back together wrong ... As Hub says, bet some sucker hose is off or on wrong. Maybe see if a local can let you check a know good setup to help u find the mistake??

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As far as the shift fork issue, what is going on? Missed shifts or no engagement ? A bit of noise from the clutch basket is pretty normal. Mine growls quite a bit in neutral unless the clutch is pulled in.

Mad

* Last updated by: Maddevill on 3/30/2018 @ 7:34 AM *

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Are the hoses going underneath into the air box correct. On the gen 1 the Pair house was on the right hand side but on gen two it swopped around and is on the left. If you don’t connect the right hand side or it’s blocked with something that will affect your idle.

* Last updated by: untamed on 3/30/2018 @ 8:01 AM *

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A bit of noise from the clutch basket is pretty normal. Mine growls quite a bit in neutral unless the clutch is pulled in.

I think the main noise of my stock bike was the whine of the water pump. I did notice the clutch make a low moaning noise like air flowing in a pipe. Pull the clutch and it slowed to a stop. That was just the clutch turning.

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