There are two lead connectors that normally are bracketed on the LH side of the mudflap bracket. The bracket that would hold these connectors is removed from my bike. The SM identifies the smaller connector as the alternator lead connector and the larger one you see in my hand in this pic is simply called "connector." All it is is a male connector with three hot wires and one ground with a female that has a plug in each of the four pin sockets. Could I pull the plugs out of the female connector and put contacts in them with wires to use this as a power source for aftermarket electronics?

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/17/2018 @ 7:05 AM *

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Rook, pardon my ignorance, as i am probably about to say something stupid... but isn't this connector meant for plugging in the diagnostic computer?

isn't this connector meant for plugging in the diagnostic computer?

The same question crossed my mind a few years ago when I repositioned these connectors from the mudflap bracket to the frame. It sure does look like the diagnostic connector. It might be the exact same kind of lead connector but if it's a diagnostic connector, that's news to me.

The diagnostic connector on the Gen1 is the plug that is held in the small block of foam on the RH side of the ECU. The SM calls that one, "Immobilizer/Kawasaki Diagnostic System Connector." The connector shown in the OP is on the LH side of the mudflap bracket and the SM just calls it, "connector."

Are there two diagnostic connectors?

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Are there two diagnostic connectors?

I think the smaller connector in the foam cutout is the diagnostic reader. This one in hand: has to follow the wire colors in the book and see where they lead. If one wire heads to the dash panel/ECU... make sense?

I would leave it alone just for resale reasons. You look the squid with the novice touch and confidence goes out the window wondering about the rest of the bike. First, what are the volts out of each wire? If they run 12v, why not then? Find the corresponding male/female end rather than snip OE wire ends off. You run a dab of goop between fitted prongs so they do not bend and touch. If say they show 5v, they are useless for aftmkt units needing 12v. The other thing is bleeding off the bike's fuse box as to what OE wires you use. Why not run a hot wire off the battery+ side, run a toggle/fuse (not in that order) and a panel block. The panel block has a hot side and ground side. The rest of the screw blocks are hot/ground from there... If mem serves. You forget to toggle off the accessory block... low/dead battery. You could run a light across the block to show if it's on or not.

1. One fuse for the whole block.
2. One flip of the switch.
3. One never tampers with the OE wire harness... especially a computer type.
4. One goops the glue on the block so no drilling or hardware is needed.
5. One suggests this setup. http://i01.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v1/949967883_1/10PCS-TB-2503-600V-25A-Dual-Row-3-Position-Barrier-Screw-Terminal-Block.jpg

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I think the smaller connector in the foam cutout is the diagnostic reader.

I think you are correct on that. The larger plug up by the ECU is the ABS diagnostic connector and my bike doesn't have that one. The Immobilizer/Kawasaki Diagnostic System Connector by the ECU is a 4 prong connector and I believe it looks just like the one on the mudflap.

I would leave it alone just for resale reasons.

...I can't quite break the habit of avoiding irreversible mods but the 08 is probably worth about what it has cost me to store it the last two years. I intend to keep it til I die or else wreck it and drag it to the junk yard.

3. One never tampers with the OE wire harness... especially a computer type.

Yeah, if it is a diagnostic connector, I wouldn't want to hook up anything to that.

5. One suggests this setup. http://i01.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v1/949967883_1/10PCS-TB-2503-600V-25A-Dual-Row-3-Position-Barrier-Screw-Terminal-Block.jpg

Yep, I've seen those and probably will have at least one on the bike someday. If the OEM electronic is removed, I like the idea of using its circuit to power an aftermarket item though. ...but we don't even know what this one is!

If it was just an extra connector they put in to hook up an aftermarket accessory, I would think it would be just one negative and one positive. I will have a look at the wiring diagrams. Thanks, Hub.

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/17/2018 @ 10:03 AM *

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It appears to be a second diagnostic connector. My Hayabusa has one in this location also and I used it to display an FI code by jumping two prongs. I've never heard of doin that with a ZX-14 but it worked for the busa.

The wiring diagram does not label whatever the connector I have highlighted in red is. It does not specifically identify the connector on the mudflap in the SM either. The mudflap connector has the wire colors indicated for the unlabeled connector in the wiring diagram. The wire colors of the mudflap connector seem to correspond at least partially to the colors of the sponge diagnostic connector by the ECU which I have highlighted in purple. Both purple diagnostic connector and red connector go to joint block 2 highlighted in green. All other wires on both the red and the purple connectors go to the ECU. It seems pretty conclusive that the connector highlighted red is the mudflap connector I asked about in the OP. If this is the case, its wiring has too many similarities to the diagnostic connector highlighted in purple for it to not be another diagnostic connector.

It's diagnostic connector #2 from here on out. Only reason I can think that they don't label it as such is to avoid confusion. Perhaps it is not normally required to use it. It might be interesting to have a look at what the ECU pins these connectors go to are for but all I need to know is they are both diagnostic connectors.

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islandninja got this one!

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Thank you both for the help!

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