WHAT'S UP EVERYBODY, HAS ANYONE HEARD OF A SECOND FAN INSTALL, AND IF YOU HAVE, HOW DID YOU WIRE, AND DID IT CAUSE ANY AMPERAGE PROBLEMS, I HEARD WIRING THE SECOND FAN INCORRECTLY COULD BURN OUT THE STATOR, ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED PEACE!

People do it all the time. I and couple others have a thread talking about it on zx14.com if you care to check it out. You basically fab a second fan or the C14 left fan to the radiator and then choose your wiring preference. I would suggest running the switch wire to a relay first and have battery power go straight to the fan. I have never heard of damage as a result nor would I think it's possible unless the installer was a complete electrical idiot. It's pretty cut and dry.

But I would really suggest thinking about whether you need to. A full aftermarket exaust and PC will take care of the problem too. Or a zx10 fender. Pick your poison.

I installed a second fan from Schnitz Racing and wired it into the primary fan in parallel. So the fans still connect with the OEM connector. Didn't bother with a relay or change the fuse.

Everything has worked perfectly for two riding season and its still going strong.

* Last updated by: privateer on 4/14/2011 @ 9:12 PM *

Cooling fan thread at Bikeland

I hate to point you to Bikeland but here is a thread I started which should give some info you might need to save you some time.

* Last updated by: Edgecrusher on 4/15/2011 @ 5:54 AM *

We have discussed secondary fans a lot on this forum, all one has to do is use the search function and you will see it all. Lots of good information.

I'm not a fan of putting it on a manual switch because you have to remember to switch it on, which means you have to pay attention to the heat indicator more. I prefer just to have two fans come on at once, when the temp reaches the factory specified level. Then two fans bring the temp down really fast. Problem solved.

Add Engine Ice, problem becomes non-existant except on 100F+ days, and then it is still significantly better than stock.

Also I cannot see the need for going to the trouble of using a relay when it runs fine just by wiring the secondary into the primary fan parallel (+ to +, - to -). Even though I have a fuse block up under the right ram air tube cover with its own relay and a big fat wire back to battery (+) positive, I'd rather not run a short wire to a fan relay when it isn't necessary. Those fans draw very little amperage.

THANKS, PRIVATEER & EDGE- IM A NEWBIE TO THE FORUM AND 14 BEEN RIDING A WHILE BUT AM JUST NOW STARTING TO DELVE INTO THE PERFORMANCE UPGRADING OF IT ALL. I TOOK SOME TIMME TO SEARCH THE FORUM AND SEEN ALL THE PREVIOUS POSTS ABOUT THIS TOPIC ANYWAY THANKS FOR REITERATING LOL PEACE

caps off

HEY PRIVATEER WHENYOU WIRED THEM IN PARALLEL WHAT KIND OF WIRE DID YOU USE TO CONNECT THEM, IM SURE YOU DID SOME KIND OF SPLICING, WHAT WIRE SHOULD I USE TO CONNECT

Turn your keyboard CAPS lock off please. You are yelling, lol.

What I did is this:

0) Removed the radiator and placed it front-down on my workbench....

1) After marking one wire of the two wire lead with white marker on both sides of my proposed cut, I cut the wire from the fan that connects to the frame side harness (it has a connector on the end) off about 3 inches from the back of the fan, and stripped all 4 cut wires (2 connector side, 2 fan side). Note I still know how to reconnect these because I marked one of the wires with white marker (tank marker, like writing on acetylene or CO2 tank).

2) Assuming the secondary fan is already installed just not wired....

3) Pull the secondary fan lead wire over to the primary fan to gauge the length, and cut it leaving enough to length to strip both leads. Then it gets tricky. I figured out which lead on the primary would turn the blade the correct direction (it pulls air through the radiator, towards the header) using a regulated 12V power supply, and put red tape on the found (+) lead. There are other ways, and the fan you buy may put a stripe on one wire to denote (+) or (-), so read the instructions first, carefully.

4) I spliced (+) and (-) from secondary to (+) and (-) on the primary, (+) to (+), (-) to (-) but did not solder yet.

5) Slipped shrink tube onto the connector lead, pushed it all the way to to the connector, and then I spliced the connector lead back on the combined leads, (+) (marked) to (+) marked, (-) to (-) and did not solder.

6) Hooked the power supply up again, and made sure both fans turned the right direction and the same direction.

7) Soldered the two connections, pushed the shrink tube over them, hit it with the heat gun, and wrapped it all with electrical tape for good measure.

8) Reinstalled the radiator, and plugged the fans into the OEM wiring harness connector.

Mine has run flawlessly now for several seasons. They both come on at the same time, and go off shortly after.

I confirm that no relay needed for fans. Just make a 'Y' pigtail from some 16 AWG or bigger, male spade connectors at the bottom of the 'Y' and four females at the top ends.

Don't DUE it man! Year gonna blow out the stator! Good call!

Hub, you lol

Edge wrote:

Just make a 'Y' pigtail from some 16 AWG or bigger, male spade connectors at the bottom of the 'Y' and four females at the top ends.

If he uses the multi-purpose fan kit from Schnitz Racing, he doesn't need to add any wire.

The Schnitz fan has an attached lead, you just attach it to the OEM fan in parallel, and use your stock connection lead and connector, and its all good.

He can do it my way, soldered, won't ever fail, or use scotchlok connectors, which are not waterproof. He can make them waterproof with careful application of clear silicone adhesive underneath really large shrink tube over the scotchlok.

* Last updated by: privateer on 5/10/2011 @ 11:54 AM *

Sorry Privy but Scotchlocks suck IMO. lol

as a matter of fact I don't think most people think of half the shit you and I worry about on a daily basis.lol

Edge wrote

Sorry Privy but Scotchlocks suck IMO. lol

You are right, Edgecrusher, some people sweat the details, and it shows in the results.

As for scotchloks, dunno, I got them on mine and they have never caused one second of trouble.

Example:

I ran a single negative (-) ground wire from the battery up to the front, and capped the end of it, so its like a wire that ends with no wire exposed anywhere.

I hook things up to my fuseblock, which is (+) only (good thing, fuseblock cannot short), so everything on the fuseblock needs a ground connection. I just ran the the (-) negative lead corresponding to each fuse on the block to the vicinity of the ground wire, and used a scotchlok to tap into it.

This is working perfectly. Of course, its not exposed to rain, which helps. But to inline-strip and solder would have been overkill.

I am absolutely certain after the riding season is gone, everything will still be working perfectly.

Of course, I used the right size scotchloks and wire, which helps. The ground wire can sink more current than the battery will accept, so it will never become overloaded.

And you guys know I'm not interested in doing anything fast, I've put 100s if not 1,000s of hours into this bike, and everything I've done has been well done. The COG guys drool all over it everytime I show up at a COG event.

Heck, the Kawk dealer in town asks me every bike night and open house to please bring my ZX14 so they brag about it.

So for me, scothloks have a use, when properly used, and it always works for me.