At 76K miles, BW II is in need of some winter maintenance.

The plastic is stripped off and the chassis is slung to the rafters to unweight the front wheel.

Today the front end comes off. Fork oil change, new steering head bearings and new brake pads await installation.

Once it's back on both wheels, valve and TB check. Might even try to pretty up the road-weary bodywork etc. It sure is filthy under the panels.

100,000 miles, here I come. If not this year, then next. Have a few rides planned already. Big one is a week in Colorado in August.

Trying to get most of it done before I leave for Daytona in a couple weeks. It's my racer buddy's final Daytona 200 and I'm on the team again. Should be a helluva party.

If anyone here is in the Daytona area during Bike Week let me know. I'll have the laptop, so you can shoot em a pm and we can meet up for a beverage. I personally would not go anywhere near the 24/7 slow noise parade at that time if I wasn't at the racetrack.

Look for my tutorial on T bodies balance. Mine was quite out of balance and ran no better after it was balanced. It's a real PITA to get a pilot screw driver in all the needle valves (#4 requires some extra steps not mentioned in the SM). Try a plastic tube over the center screw to guide the pilot screwdriver bit in. Use a set of inexpensive vacuum gauges, don't use a SyncPro. If you can find the manometer (made in Britain I think) with mercury in the tubes, that seems like the best of both worlds. I have not seen it online in years though. Carbtune. Sync-Pro 90° screwdriver is a good tool.

http://www.bwringer.com/gs/carbsync.html

This will be the third time for me on this bike and I've done others. I have two 90-degree extended screwdrivers and a set of vacuum gauges. Toughest part is not losing the little caps that cover the vacuum fittings.

New All Ballx tapered needle roller steering bearings are in, fork oil is changed and brake pads go today. Then I can put the front fork and wheel back on so I can at least roll it around the garage.

I have a friend's '66 YDS3c in the garage. Fixed the stuck clutch and now I'm elbow deep in a fuel system redo. The tank, which has already been repainted, has a failed liner that will need to be dissolved and removed, then the tank can be properly cleaned, de-rusted and relined.

Everyone needs to have to cope with old bike issues to really appreciate how reliable and trouble-free modern bikes are.

* Last updated by: Danno on 2/25/2018 @ 6:00 AM *

Toughest part is not losing the little caps that cover the vacuum fittings.