Hey guys....at the risk of showing my true ignorance I must ask......1) been looking at a lot of accessories trying to find green levers for my '12 golden blaze green. Does anyone make them. I've seen red, blue, goldfish....no green. Seen the green rear sets but I've had mine powder coated blk and don't wanna change those. 2) what is the benefit or purpose of the anodized bolt sets as an upgrade, is it only certain bolts and also anyone have green ones?? Have only seen blues and reds and some purple. Any help or direction would be great.

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Ebay has lots. But beware they might cause issues with the clutch staying engaged and resulting in slip. see rooks posts.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xgreen+zx14+levers&_nkw=green+zx14+levers&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Ebay has lots. But beware they might cause issues with the clutch staying engaged and resulting in slip. see rooks posts.

I had a Pazzo on the clutch and the clutch was slipping after one year.

If you need to push the plunger pin to the mastercylinder in to get the pivot bolt holes between the lever and the perch to line up, that's a bad sign. the lever will probably be keeping the plunger pressed in after you get the pivot bolt in, too. If the clutch lever doesn't have a few degrees of soft play before you start to feel the pressure of the mastercylinder, your clutch is slightly disengaged. It's waiting to slip when you hit the gas. The bit of soft play is the Neutral safety switch. You should be able to feel it with the OEM lever.

I tried some Chinese levers and they DID need to be pressed into the perch pretty hard to get the pivot holes to align. The Pazzo was not so bad, I don't think. If you drill the hole in the brass bushing just a touch deeper, I think a Chinese lever will work. With the Pazzo, it may just be a matter of changing the bushing often. The Pazzo might benefit from a little drill befoer installing too but I have not tried it.

Name of the game is, "feel the 5-6 degrees of soft play when you first feel the lever pull." If it's not there, you don't know how much your clutch is disengaged. If the aftermarket lever installs as easiky as the OEM, it is probably going to work fine until the bushing wears out. Check every 3000 miles or less.

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Also a little grease on the plunger might help also ... So far I have had the pazzos on there for
A little over a year, and no problems yet, still has a little bit of "play" like Rook was saying..

I'm not sure why these aftermarket companies (especially like Pazzo) are having a hard time making
Levers, I mean with digital scanning etc ... You can make exact copies of the factory plunger
And feed it right into the CNC or whatever they use .....

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Also a little grease on the plunger might help also ... So far I have had the pazzos on there for
A little over a year, and no problems yet, still has a little bit of "play" like Rook was saying..

I greased mine when I installed and I think one time after but by then, it migta been too late.

Good to know yours are still working good after a year. Mine should be salvageable once I get a new bushing.

I'm not sure why these aftermarket companies (especially like Pazzo) are having a hard time making
Levers, I mean with digital scanning etc ... You can make exact copies of the factory plunger
And feed it right into the CNC or whatever they use .....

I'd like to have a look at a ZX-10 Pazzo or a ZX-6. I have this feeling that they use the same part and sell it as a ZX-14 lever (or maybe the supplier I bought it from sent the wrong lever?). Sure it works but to my line of thinking, there should never be a situation where the plunger wears against the aluminum part of the lever. Not even if the bushing hole wears out. Seems like the busjing should be centered so the plunger will stay in it until the bushing wears straight through (if you let it go that long)..

I'll get around to emailing Pazzo on this soon. Need to post pics too.

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