Let me start by telling you all will be explained as clearly as I possibly can when I write the tutorial for this. The info I've digested up to this point makes sense to me with some effort but it probably appears a bit gapped if you were not trying to follow very closely.

pp 24-25 of this thread.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=C7E75527-1372-66AE-3B161D1B39C67F71&page=24

I've become relatively well acquainted with the PCV software. Base map's loaded to the PCV and runs good but can it be better? I've tested my O2 sensor and Auto Tune indicates the sensor's working just fine after 7 years of sitting in my pipe. Have the tank cover and laptop velcroed. Will try out the LCD-200, too. Popped in the clean BMC filter. All systems GO! I'm ready to fine tune.

First step will be Auto Tuning the bike from idle up to 10% throttle. I think I understand this enough to not totally rehash what all has been said on thread linked above:

I do have a couple questions about that info though and probably will have a few more before I'm done.

To start, concerning setup of Auto Tune configuration--

Now we set Max Enrichment and Min Enleanment. Make this # 20% in Both. For now,,,, We will come back to this.

20% seems awful high. Doesn’t this increase the chance I will run way lean after accepting trims?

Edit, Rook: No. 20% trims are not +/- 20% of stock fueling, they are +/-20% of the stock fueling +/- whatever the current adjustment is in that cell. If you have a large adjustment already, it would not be alarming to see large trims to correct it. If you are unsure, look at the AFR in the cell that requires the 20% adjustment. If it is pretty lean and autotune is telling you to enrich it 20%, that makes sense.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/15/2016 @ 6:23 PM *

I thought I read somewhere that you only wanted to accept values under 5% when tuning.
And that the best way was to go in and manually edit each cell that has a recommendation of 5% or less. Not to make wholesale changes to the base map all at once.

yes, I'm pretty sure changes at a 20% rate will quickly screw up your map.

I might be talking out my butt, since I haven't played with autotune yet.

* Last updated by: rod442 on 7/26/2016 @ 12:02 AM *

If the throttle is applied properly, I don't believe Auto Tune would suggest an incorrect trim. The problem I see is "what if the throttle was not applied properly?" If some trims are way off because of improper throttle application, that could cause the bike to run lean in some spots after you accept all trims. Bigger percentages would mean a lot lean instead of just a little lean. I was recently told that the AFR gauge of the LCD-200 has a significant lag. I would assume the same is true of the AFR gauge on the PCV software.if you run super lean, you might be doing it for a few seconds.

Edit, Rook: None of this is of concern. If you make one large adjustment, the following will be smaller. that's how Autotune works. It makes larger adjustments and narrows them down smaller and smaller until they zero.

The lag in the LCD-200 is only at startup. Autotune does not start sampling for 20 seconds. This is not a lag, it is just that there is no info coming to the LCD from Autotune. The LCD's AFR gauge is instantaneous and so is the PCV software AFR gauge.

Accepting all trims should be ok if you want to adjust the whole map and you're sure you applied the throttle properly. You might only want to adjust trims for the 20, 40, 60% TP columns if you already had the 0, 2, 5, 10% columns perfect. If so, you would want to input the 20, 40, 60% trims manually. If your trims were all 0s in the 0, 2, 5, 10% columns (which they should be if the throttle was applied correctly), accepting all trims could not screw up the columns that were already perfect.

If there are some trims you don't want to a accept, all you need to do is manually zero them.

I am only tuning the 0-10% TP with the bike on the strand right now. Trims of +/-20 would be nice to get them zeroed in as few runs as possible but is it safe?

Sure. No problem.

(I know anyone with 0 knowledghe reading this has already given up lol--don't worry. It will all be xplained)

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/15/2016 @ 6:34 PM *

The min/max enrichment won't mean you will always run lean, that all depends on your target AFR (ie, if you set your target AFR to something high like 16:1).

The auto-tune will adjust the fuel trims on the fly, the min/max enrichment just gives the autotune limits on how much fuel it can add or remove until you accept the trims.

IE, lets say a particular cell in your fuel map (5,000RPM 10% throttle) is currently at +15% (starting point), but the AFR is actually 10:1 at that point and your target is 14.5:1 the autotune will change the cell upto -20% for a net value of -5% (these numbers are relative to the stock fuel map from the ECU, as in, the PCV will remove 5% of the fuel at that particular RPM and throttle position that the ECU is sending to the injectors).

In my example, lets say the new AFR is now sitting at 14:1 that's a lot closer to your target but not quite there yet. So AFTER you accept the trims, -5% now becomes the starting point for the autotune, you go riding around and the autotune will continue to adjust the fuel until it reaches the target AFR by subtracting another -7% fuel in that cell. So now the AFR at 5,000RPM/10% throttle is the target 14.5:1 and AFTER you accept the trims, the FUEL MAP will show -12% for that particular cell.

Couple of important notes here: #1 the FUEL MAP will only show the starting point for the fuel adjustments until you accept the trims from the autotune. Look at the trim table to see what adjustments the autotune has made before you accept them.

I like to check the fuel table after accepting the trims to look out for cells that are out of line, ie: 10% throttle, from RPM: 4000, 4250, 4500, etc if the fuel is 5%, 39%, 10% i'm pretty sure the 39% is WAAAAY out of line, so I will manually adjust it down to lets say 15%. Of course without knowing what the ECU is sending for fueling this is more of a blind guess.

Lastly, the only time I have ever seen the autotune lean the mix out too far is at low speed cruising throttle (1,500-2,500 RPM 2-5% throttle for me), after I got the fuel right at this range I set the target AFR to 0 to tell the autotune to not adjust these areas. As Hub mentioned a while ago, fuel trims and AFR is really just a different way of stating engine load. The higher the load, the more fuel you need, a low speed cruising, there's a very low load so I needed very low fuel to meet that target AFR. However the issue was that when accelerating (high load) the amount of fuel I needed was a lot more so my bike would bog through that range. Using the LCD I adjust those cells to get the best of both and she purrs through to the power band.

Hey Rook,

Looks like we were typing at the same time, IMO, running the bike on stands (safety aspect had been debated in another thread :) will give you a good starting point as there is virtually no load on the engine while doing this.

You are correct about proper throttle position affecting the fuel trims. In my experience as I mentioned just above, you could see improper fuel trims during low load low RPM riding that isn't good for high load low RPM. Also, things like trying to run your bike at 100% throttle at low RPM (ie 1,500RPM) just isn't a good idea so those cells will probably never be adjusted by the autotune but that's probably irrelevant since the engine shouldn't be bogged like that.

The autotune does suffer from the O2 sensor lag, but with your LCD and senses you can sometimes see and feel that lag. As mentioned above if you see a cell that seems out of line (ie more than 5% different then the adjacent cells) you will want to manually adjust it as this is more likely off due to the sensor lag.

I also found using the autotune to tune the higher RPM (5,000+RPM) and higher throttle position (40%+) to work quite well. The RPMs climb so fast at those throttle positions that I can't safely watch the LCD nor would I be able reliable comprehend the numbers if I could watch it. Sure I could log the data and then review it after the fact but unless I want to look at each cell the software shows you an average of the data from the log file which is essentially what the auto tune is already doing for me.

the min/max enrichment just gives the autotune limits on how much fuel it can add or remove until you accept the trims.

EDIT: 07/29/16 Wrong...but not too far off. The trim number is the percentage or fuel units that get added/subtracted from the total fueling. The total fueling is the number of fuel units encoded in the ECU +/- whatever the PCV fuel table is adjusting those units. min and max just establishes the largest percentage the trim number can be.

Look at the trim table to see what adjustments the autotune has made before you accept them.

the only time I have ever seen the autotune lean the mix out too far is at low speed cruising throttle

after I got the fuel right at this range I set the target AFR to 0 to tell the autotune to not adjust these areas.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/15/2016 @ 6:44 PM *

Looks like we were typing at the same time, IMO, running the bike on stands (safety aspect had been debated in another thread :) will give you a good starting point as there is virtually no load on the engine while doing this.

Yeah. Romans suggested to run bike in N (at least I assumed it was N) to tune 0-10% TP/idle-whatever rpm 10% TP causes. NO load at all in N. Perfectly safe. No wheel spinning.

In my experience as I mentioned just above, you could see improper fuel trims during low load low RPM riding that isn't good for high load low RPM.

Edit, Rook: The tuning I did in Neutral did seem to be rich when i ran the bike. Autotune' not only suggests trims, it actually corrects fueling on the fly. This is called closed loop tuning and it seems to keep my AFR where it should be in the cells that were tuned in Neutral.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/15/2016 @ 6:48 PM *

So if we select 20% max enleanment, that will not subtract 20 from the current number in any given cell. It will subtract 20% of the number in the cell? So if the number is currently -5, the most that could be subtracted is 1% (20% of -5 is -1)?

No, if the min/max are set to 20% in the autotune config, then if the cell is at -5 it could go anywhere from -25 to +15 (the percentage in the autotune is the percentage from the ECU fuel map). Of course, as you mentioned you can watch the LCD to see why the autotune would take away or add fuel. If your target AFR is set and your fuel map is close, the autotune may only make minor (1-2%) changes to the map despite what the min/max settings are on the autotune.

I've read on a few other threads where people suggest keeping the min/max at 20% each for the first couple of times you accept the trims then drop it to 5 or 10%. The idea being is if the base map is WAY off you can get it closer to correct quicker with large changes, and then restrict the autotune to make only small modifications later.

As a side note, took the bike to the other side of the mountains and spent the weekend camping. It's about 700' lower there than Calgary and I noticed my bike was running lean (I target 14.7:1 in the low to mid RPM and throttle ranges for fuel economy).

Normally the autotune and the vehicle's MAP sensor (the zx-14 DOES have a Manifold Air Pressure sensor doesn't it...?) should have adjusted the fuel table for me but I set the min/max to 1% (lowest possible) so as I was manually adjusting the fuel map the autotune wouldn't readjust those settings and I didn't have to delete my target AFR table. I think what I will do when I'm done fiddling with the map is probably set my min/max to 5% and disconnect my LCD so the autotune can adjust the fuel map based on temp/air pressure.

No, if the min/max are set to 20% in the autotune config, then if the cell is at -5 it could go anywhere from -25 to +15 (the percentage in the autotune is the percentage from the ECU fuel map).

Edit, Rook: not to worry. 5% is not a big deal. If you are concerned, watch your AFR gauge.

I've read on a few other threads where people suggest keeping the min/max at 20% each for the first couple of times you accept the trims then drop it to 5 or 10%. The idea being is if the base map is WAY off you can get it closer to correct quicker with large changes, and then restrict the autotune to make only small modifications later.

I think what I will do when I'm done fiddling with the map is probably set my min/max to 5% and disconnect my LCD so the autotune can adjust the fuel map based on temp/air pressure.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/15/2016 @ 6:52 PM *

Like what you are doing Rook with the tutorials.

Initially I was surprised to see how rich my bike ran and to see higher lean numbers on lower throttle. After following the tutorials from Romans flash thread and also adding the POD 300 in I got a much better idea of what the AFR's actually are.

The neutral low throttle tuning was a little scary. Be careful at 10% throttle you are already into 6000 rpm when it changes from 5% column. Put some pedestal type fans to help keep the engine cooler.

To get "better" numbers I log data on the POD300 and then compare that data to the autotune suggested trims. It also gives an idea me when I have "fuel dumping" whilst riding. Or poor throttle control. These numbers I can then manually change. If in doubt I rather make the number smaller or zero trims in those cells and do another run. If it still asks me to trim in those cells then I know the numbers are right.

I did my original tuning at 20% and then set it to 10% and then when I'm getting mostly small or no trim suggestions I adjusted to 5%. I don't accept trims anymore just let it run. I do occasionally check them. If I go down to the mountain passes I set it back to 10 % for that week-end but don't accept any trims. Afterwards I bring it back to 5%.
I never thought of trying a smaller number. Woudnt it just as well be the same as turning autotune off? The map is already loaded into the PCV with the relevant fuel trims.

I did change my riding style slightly when building the map so as to get more of an even throttle. Also no "blipping" the throttle when gearing down.

Rook - if I may ask a question. How did you choose your starting AFR target. Something to include in your guide maybe is how to establish the correct AFR target in the first place. It was something that I battled to get info on when I started. I found a lot of "cookie cutter" maps out there. I.e. Power commander. How do I know which is the best for my bike rather than going through the whole tuning process with each map and then having to find a Dyno to measure etc.
Or Maybe I'm asking for the impossible lol.

* Last updated by: untamed on 7/26/2016 @ 12:32 PM *

The neutral low throttle tuning was a little scary. Be careful at 10% throttle you are already into 6000 rpm when it changes from 5% column. Put some pedestal type fans to help keep the engine cooler.

I plan to remove fairings and get a fan or two pointed at the engine.

I never thought of trying a smaller number. Woudnt it just as well be the same as turning autotune off? The map is already loaded into the PCV with the relevant fuel trims.

Edit, Rook: I believe untamed was talking about trying a smaller adjustment than 5% and wouldn't this be about the same as turning Autotune off. Now that i know more about this, I'd say less than 5% trims probably are not going to affect AFR significantly so YES, that would be almost the same as turning Autotune off. Autotune is a good thing to have on all the time though. AFR changes so often for so many reasons, I see no reason to disable the systems ability to correct for all of that. Tailor your map to your needs and leave Autotune on to make the temporary changes. Closed loop adjustments do not get permanently applied to the map. They change every minute or less.

Rook - if I may ask a question. How did you choose your starting AFR target. Something to include in your guide maybe is how to establish the correct AFR target in the first place.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/15/2016 @ 7:02 PM *

Which leads me to this question: AFR table. Is there a way to save the old AFR table that was already in the PCV? I highlighted the whole table and replaced numbers with 13.3 Of course, I took a screen shot of the old AFR table but there aught to be an easier way to save and reinstall if desired.

Edit, Rook: Yeah, just save the original map to the desktop. Resend the whole map or just the original AFR table any time you want.

Also, to verify what I am understanding from Romans thread: I do want to have 13.3 in every cell of the AFR table righ?--Even the the entire 0% throttle column?

Edit, Rook: Yeah, Only cells that really do not need to have a target AFR are the cells where you are decellerating. You can tune those manually if you have decel popping problems.

Thanks a million for fast replies from you guys. I'm going out to just have a look see at what happens. No ACCEPT TRIMS today.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/15/2016 @ 7:07 PM *

Is there a way to save the old AFR table that was already in the PCV?

I was expecting the AFR table would never change once you set it. I think I see now what the AFR table is. It is set to a target number and then Auto Tune generates trims to come as close as possible to that target. If you accept the trims, the AFR table will now show the AFR that is produced with the trims. If the trims did not all achieve the target AFR, you will see numbers other than the target AFR you programmed in.

<<EDIT 07/27/16: This is incorrect,AFR table should stay as set.

There is no reason to save the old AFR table. The current trims are going to produce whatever AFR numbers they produce. Ideally, they would stay at your selected target AFR once the map was finished. That's just one number. No need to save that.

Right?...or wrong?

EDIT: 07/29/16 the old AFR table will be in the map file saved on the desk top or wherever you have a copy of it saved.

hooo-boy, do we need a tutorial on this---

yeah, we sure do.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/15/2016 @ 7:09 PM *

I saw the cell tracer flutter back and forth between cells as the rpm was transitioning from one to the next. I guess the rpm was in between the rpm increments of the table. Is this ok or will the flutter cause Auto Tune to screw up the trims for these cells?

Edit, Rook: This does not really seem to be a problem. Sometimes while opening the throttle slowly, you are not really in one cell or the other but sort of in between. The trims still seem valuable when this happens. I have seen cell tracer jump between cells that were a thousand rpm apart when the throttle is first opened and those trims, I am not so sure are reliable. they can be manually edited later if the AFR is found to be off.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/15/2016 @ 7:15 PM *

I was expecting the AFR table would never change once you set it. I think I see now what the AFR table is. It is set to a target number and then Auto Tune generates trims to come as close as possible to that target. If you accept the trims, the AFR table will now show the AFR that is produced with the trims. If the trims did not all achieve the target AFR, you will see numbers other than the target AFR you programmed in.

There is no reason to save the old AFR table. The current trims are going to produce whatever AFR numbers they produce. Ideally, they would stay at your selected target AFR once the map was finished. That's just one number. No need to save that.

The AFR table doesn't change. Its the fuel cells that change. So in other words if the the target is 13.3 at 5% TPS and 3000RPM. The AFR would still stay at 13.3 the corresponding fuel cell will change in the fuel table after the trims are accepted. Your AFR will then stay at 13.3, Trim table will be zero and fuel adjustment table will do its work to get you to the target AFR.

I keep a "simple" system of saving maps before and after in date order and numbered runs so that I can always revert back to a map in case "something" happens.

As for the fluttering of the cell tracer its because the movements are so fine/slow on the throttle. It should however only flutter between on or two cells. As you practice it gets better. Just don't roll back on the throttle and open again. You will have to start that run again from start.

Rook Looks to be a great tutorial is about to grow. Very nice.

Also, to verify what I am understanding from Romans thread: I do want to have 13.3 in every cell of the AFR table righ?--Even the the entire 0% throttle column?

Not exactly right but we all have to start somewhere with the use of our new software tools. Learning to use these tools is the Key to a perfect running machine. From here no one can tell you how your bike is working as you yourself can see it "Live" as you ride.

Remember all the old rules still apply. Rich best torque, lean best power. Once the user gets use to using Auto Tune he or she can custom tear the AFR table to suit the rider's needs. Make sense ?

For example, if you're a touring guy, running your bike at 70 mph across the country for long periods of time 13 AFR is a waste of fuel. With that being said this user of Auto tune makes his AFR Table 13.8 to 14 in the 5% to 10% throttle range at 3500 to 3800 RPM. Now Your Auto Tune software running in the closed loop will always make perfect while you ride no matter the elevation. Side effect less fill ups. Very nice.

Even with my Turbo bikes that's how I run. Scaling the numbers down from 13.8 to 11.8 in Full Boost. It kills my riding buddies at the gas pumps when I take less fuel than they do. Especially considering Bike sits 346 hp for street use.

No matter what your riding style is building a perfect fuel map is not that hard as many would have you believe. You just have to jump in and spend some time with the software. The results of a perfect running bike are your reward. No longer will you have to go on the blind faith of others telling you this is a good map(ugh!). Let "your" AFR guide you.

The AFR table doesn't change. Its the fuel cells that change.

Keep watch for some real questions but for now, I just have to play and observe.

Thanks for answer to cell flutter question. That was a real question.

Not exactly right but we all have to start somewhere with the use of our new software tools.

Gotcha Romes. I'm less concerned about having the ideal target AFR for performance right now. I really just wanted to make sure 13.3 throughout the entire table was going to be safe for the Gen1.

I noticed you were telling untamed to use 13.5 for his target AFR on his Gen2. Why such a rich number if the Gen2 can take 13.7~13.9 for an AFR?

You just have to jump in and spend some time with the software.

The AFR table doesn't change. Its the fuel cells that change.

Click Get Map.

YES!! Hooray! I see my last test run from idle to ~3500 rpm did make at least one trim change. What I find strange is that ALL of the other numbers that were previously there in the trim table ---all the way to redline----are still there!?? I thought I zeroed those out.

I guess the previous numbers just stay there unless AT changes the trim? Seems like they should go away if you zeroed them. i don't want to accept those numbers in the upper revs where I'm not tuning yet.

Now I click the AFR table again. It's back to the old AFR table. That must be Romans' table for his map, I guess? My 13.1 is erased.

If I wanted to make the AFR table stay on 13.1, would I have to hit Send Table? It's kinda bugging me that I have to reset it to 13.1 every time.

Edit, Rook: This was me not understanding how to use the buttons in the control panel. Hit Send table wit table open to send the table on the laptop to the PCV. Hit send map with the map open and the whole map is sent to the PCV. If the table or map is not visible on the screen, it is not open and Send Table will send whatever table is open instead

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/15/2016 @ 7:22 PM *

What I find strange is that ALL of the other numbers that were previously there in the trim table ---all the way to redline----are still there!?? I thought I zeroed those out.

If I remember correctly. Once you accept/delete trims or zero them manually and you don't send this map to PCV. It will revert back to what was there before.
I found also if I made changes to trims and before I sent map, clicked on "get map" or "get table" it would pull up the original map with the trims before changes, and discards any changes I might have made. You end up having to do it all again.
Always remember to send map first. In other words make your changes in trims, accept trims and send map. Then it should add all the changes in the PCV. Now if you click get map or table it will come up with your new changes in.
You can also make your changes in the trims table, send map and then only accept trims? However you will then have to send the map again to accept changes in the PCV.

If I wanted to make the AFR table stay on 13.1, would I have to hit Send Table? It's kinda bugging me that I have to reset it to 13.1 every time.

Exactly every time you make any changes, to make them permanent in the PCV you have to hit "send map" it will then stay as you entered it. E.g. 13.1

* Last updated by: untamed on 7/27/2016 @ 1:24 PM *

If I remember correctly. Once you accept/delete trims or zero them manually and you don't send this map to PCV. It will revert back to what was there before.

You were right. 10% is well over 6000 rpm. Kind of hard to hold that.

You end up having to do it all again.

Exactly every time you make any changes, to make them permanent in the PCV you have to hit "send map" it will then stay as you entered it. E.g. 13.1

EDIT: 07/29/16 all you need to do is click send map with the map that you want to send open and the whole map gets sent from the laptop. The fuel table with last accepted trims will replace the old fuel table. The target AFR table is the same as the one in the PCV so no problem replacing it. The Trims table will be zeroed after accepting trims so no problem sending it to replace the old trims table after accepting trims to the fuel table---which was sent to the PCV too. Sending your adjustments can be done just the same way you would send a new map.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/15/2016 @ 7:31 PM *

Here's what has my curiosity piqued: Why are we revving the crap out of our engine in the garage at 10% TP/~7000 rpm when we will be tuning on the road starting from 0% TP/3000 rpm? I don't see the reason to do it in Neutral if we will do it on the road again anyway.

Edit, Rook: We will not do it on the road again. Tuning the fuel dump zone on the road in gear will cause decel popping and have very rich exhaust and that is why we tune it in neutral. I still am uncertain as to why either decl popping or fuel dumping would happen as long as you were using only forward throttle movement. Hope I get an answer to this because it's a biggy.

Here's my trims from 0-10% highlighted in dark grey zone. I saw 7600 on the tach. Yeah, hard to hold it there long.

I've done this a couple times and seen that 20 at 10TP/27500 rpm so I guess it's legit.

This might not be a good tuning day. 76 F and rain. Good learning day though.
EDIT 07/29/16: This is a picture of a trims table that has not been cleared. You should not accept trims from a table like this. It is the old table before ANY of my recent trims were made with my new AFR table. I had not yet figured out you need to send map to get the cleared table into the map.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/15/2016 @ 7:41 PM *

Here's what has my curiosity piqued: Why are we revving the crap out of our engine in the garage at 10% TP/~7000 rpm when we will be tuning on the road starting from 0% TP/3000 rpm? I don't see the reason to do it in Neutral if we will do it on the road again anyway.

Rook please don't rev the "Crap" out of your bike. This is what turned me off the last time I tried to explain how to use Auto tune.

As you learn it will become clear how hard it is to tune the "No Load" Area of the map. This is why in the lower TPS, RPM columns you start off in N.

Please Remember this is My little trick to get the numbers that are most affected by fuel dumping from cycling of your wrist in the TPS.

Try and you will see even leaving your driveway you will be over 3000rpm and your wrist will be moving constantly. Now when you let off the throttle your AFR sees rich and makes a mess of your bottom end fueling.

This was very hard for me to explain. I almost wish I never mentioned it,,,,, but I had too. Make sense now ?

The interpretation of what is written by the readers is very hard to control. I think this is why the only explanation Dyno-Jet gives you is to just ride the bike.

Please Remember this is My little trick to get the numbers that are most affected by fuel dumping from cycling of your wrist in the TPS.

This was very hard for me to explain. I almost wish I never mentioned it,,,,, but I had too. Make sense now ?

I think this is why the only explanation Dyno-Jet gives you is to just ride the bike.

So I'm guessing the next step is to zero all the trims outside of the 0-10% TP 1000-7500rpm range then Accept All Trims?..then do a second run watching the AFR, especially in that cell where I have the 20. Check what the trims look like after the run? Hopefully all will be 0 but that cell that had 20 will probably be asking for a little more fuel. Sound good?

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/27/2016 @ 8:37 PM *

So I'm guessing the next step is to zero all the trims outside of the 0-10% TP 1000-7500rpm range then Accept All Trims?.

NO-- wait. cell tracer surely did not hit all of the cells within the dark grey zone. Some of those cells must be from old trims. If the only way to make all old trims go away is to accept them, that's what i need to do and then reinstall the base map to start afresh. Shoulda done that from the start but didn't know.
Infact, that 20 at 2500 rpm is probably an old trim. probably a good sign if it's not a current trim.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/27/2016 @ 9:52 PM *