It seems like aero is very important around standing mile speed. Does anyone have any advice on;
1. front fender.
2. extended windscreen.
3. more aerodynamic 'busa like tail?
Airtech
Tiger
I'm impressed by the aero on this 'busa.
I realize the 14 can't be that aerodynamic/slim with anything close to a stock gas tank, but a few little pieces like fender and longer windscreen would help.

* Last updated by: CoolBrzBlu on 1/27/2017 @ 5:11 PM *

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Depending on hte organization, you may want to stay with stock body work..Look up the event you are going to plan on attending and then check their rules.. and some of them include a LOT of rules!!

I am working on results for you from my Mojave event..

Plan on going to the TX mile. I think modified bodywork is allowed. Seems like they want a crankcase breather catch can though. I'm not trying to stay in a particular class, Just want 200+ without too much money/internal mods and trying to maintain the streetable nature of the bike.

* Last updated by: CoolBrzBlu on 1/25/2017 @ 6:19 PM *

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Agree with Chrly, read the rules very carefully. Changes from stock other than gearing and a wind screen may put you into a different category with very specific do and dont's compared to a stock ride.

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I believe the catch can is if your bike does not run a line into the air filter intake.we shud be ok on the stock 14 setup.
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Of course I already changed the crankcase breather setup, now I need to buy a stock setup again.

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So has anyone changed the front fender to help with aerodynamics? Cricket? :/
I don't see any different requirements for fenders and windscreens in TX at least. Is there something I'm not seeing?
Is there a minimum thickness for a metal chain cover?

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I have heard of people swapping out the ZX14 fender for a ZX10 front fender, I think the main purpose was for aesthetics though and perhaps conceptually increasing airflow to the rad.

Here's a pic I found with the zx10 fender on a 14. I suspect that this would probably be worse aerodynamically than the stock fender.

The 10 fender looks lighter and more aggressive. :)

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This is probably the best picture I have of my Busa from Loring July 2011. Aerodynamics is THE most important thing you'll do far exceeding weight savings. The frontal area of the 14 isn't user friendly in the LSR world, the Busa'a almost comes to a point below the headlight. Think small, low, narrow, clean lines and tape if needed. If my picture came through you'll see the Tiger racing front fender and lower belly pan which extended to 1/2" of the rear tire after being trimmed. I bought shorty levers to get them inside the fairings etc. One thing most commonly overlooked is a NON o-ring chain EK drz is lighter than the drz2 and plenty strong enough for LSR. I'd also suggest bringing your stock windshield just to try if you get multiple runs after licensing. I mounted a Garmin gps with the screen covered except for a hole over the mph for my license runs. At Loring it was required 125-150-175 successive runs and all had to be within a 5 mph window or you had to do them over again. Your physical size will cause some issues in trying to get low and narrow on the bike, helmet touching the tank, knees and elbows trying to push hard against whatever they contact. My data logger showed I was in 6th gear at wot for 37 seconds in the 1.5 mile. Your only indicator of speed will be your tach, try moving your body slightly, knees, elbows to find what works. Tach gaining 50 rpm good, lost 50 rpm bad etc. I'm by no means an LSR expert but I was able to run 198.9604 on a totally stock motor Busa on 87 octane Irving pump gas and did obtain my AA license by running within 1% of the 200 mph requirement. Hope this helps, Aloha! Rick B...

Loring is a beautiful place to go for any that have the chance. It was a former B52 site and was a viable emergency landing site for the space shuttle. 14,300 ft. long, 300 ft. wide with a 1000 ft. concrete pad on each end that was 8ft. thick to get below northern Maine's frost line. Would suggest a couple of different fuels to try as High octane isn't always the fastest. Good luck and feel free to ask if I can help you in any way. Aloha...

Thanks for your advice Rick. I'm going to run one of the two fenders I listed above, thinking about catalyst bodywork as they have a solid bellypan that's smoothed and extended.
Weight loss, I think, will help with accelerating close to top speed, but anything over 180 seems to be more aero than anything else.
Wish we had a runway that long for the TX mile. Id be a lot more confident with 1.5 miles to work with.

Where did you find your extended windscreen?

I think the licensing is the same for the TX mile. On the gen 2 the speed comes off the front wheel so it should be pretty accurate even at higher speed. Figured I would be able to judge the error after the first run and be close enough to qualify for the rest. Might have to get a ram mount for my phone, GPS would eliminate the guess work.

* Last updated by: CoolBrzBlu on 10/14/2018 @ 12:03 AM *

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I'm thinking of trimming the ends of my clip ons so they are flush with the grips, then putting a custom bar end on the outside to smooth the airflow and for protection.
Still havent settled on what clutch master to run, made an offer on one today, once the masters match I plan on using short CRG carbon levers to keep them out of the wind and lose a little more weight.

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Cool Pics Rick, kinda makes me wanta get right back out there..:)

Really cool pics, Fordtech. I must do someday.

The 10 fender looks lighter and more aggressive. :)

I have a Yana Shiki which is an inexpensive (about $60) alternative. It looks very similar and is EXTREMELY light but I doubt it improves aeros at all. Have done almost 180 with it and no problems tearing off even though it has a crack at the screw hole I mended. I said this thing is cheap but oh is it light and looks cool with a little paint. Have Yana Shiti rear hugger for busa and it is the same cheap construction. Lightweight though.

One thing most commonly overlooked is a NON o-ring chain

I was told--you do not want for the street. Fine for racing where you can oil it every mile but this will be a rattle trap for the street and probably not real safe either if you don't constantly lube.

My data logger showed I was in 6th gear at wot for 37 seconds in the 1.5 mile.

I must do some day!!!

but anything over 180 seems to be more aero than anything else.

My experience is confined to street hooliganism but video confirms for me, my acceleration drops off at 150 and after 160 it is climbing kinda slow. I think those aeros start to come into play at around 140.

GPS would eliminate the guess work.

Yes but remember you have almost a 1 second delay. GPS works great when you can hold your speed but I'd trust a digital speedo more for perfecting body position aeros.

then putting a custom bar end on the outside to smooth the airflow and for protection.

You could cut down some aluminum bar ends or get those flat motor cross bar ends. I want to go with aftermarket bars and cut them shorter too. Weight loss and aeros. I don't think the stock bar is aluminum. Get rid of pods and place switches you need for street riding elsewhere. You could take 2 inches off each bar.

Another good thread.

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The windscreen was a standard double bubble though I've recently found the stocker faster in the 1/4 mile on my 14.

Rook: you're correct you DON'T want a non oring for street use.
The factory bars are aluminum, I had to relocate the right switch housing and throttle to get my tether mounted and drilled new locating holes like butter.

I did the GPS thing just to be sure, the Busa speedo came off the front sprocket and with multiple gearing changes I didn't want to have to recalculate my speedo healer each time. The 1 second delay for the GPS was a non issue with 37 seconds plus to be accurate. The 37 in 6th was on full runs, slower qualifiers took a lot longer, the 175 was the first one to get my adrenaline going...

Another good/cheap thing to consider is a 18t front sprocket, the larger the radius the easier the chain goes around it. Vortex on Amazon for $22.91

I've just removed the entire ABS system from my 2015 turbo bike. HCU/ECU, lines, hoses, hardware etc. was 7.6 lbs. plus all the extra fluid it has to carry that I couldn't measure.
As a track bike only the left caliper, rotor and crossover hose was another 5 lbs.+
Final tally 12.6 lbs. plus for a days labor and $100 front/rear Goodridge lines and fittings.

chrly: I still want to get to the salt some day...

* Last updated by: Fordtech58 on 1/29/2017 @ 10:12 AM *

Goodridge lines and fittings.

Reminds me Cool, i was calling my lines Lockhart Phillips but they are Goodridge. Purchased from lockhart Philliips.

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Rick if you like to read, this is pretty good ..SPEED DUAL , The Inside Story of The Land Speed Record in the Sixties. (motorcycles)
Talk about trials and tribulations !!!

* Last updated by: chrly on 1/29/2017 @ 12:31 PM *

I have thin bar ends like these for the 10 and 14. On the 14 the clip on bars are thick and heavy. Would be nice to run carbon fiber clip ons. In order for them to look ok though I think youd need a custom triple clamp?
Maybe I'll copy Rooks write-up after he does it for next year..
I know I could take off some weight and resistance with a chain and no abs, but I'd like to preserve as many of the stock features as possible, like the abs and power modes (My first new motorcycle, still not paid off). I'd much rather open up the engine or change the bodywork for now at least. If I'm still not close to the goals after bodywork, wheels, race gas, and tuning I'll have to get more creative.

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I have thin bar ends like these for the 10 and 14.

Those do not look like they would fit the 14's bar end. We don't have any well in the end of the bar for that tube to drop into...but i suppose they make something that fits Kawasaki.

Would be nice to run carbon fiber clip ons. In order for them to look ok though I think youd need a custom triple clamp?

I think you would need custom clipons. Normal clipons clip onto the fork and that's all they mount to. Our clipons are more like "boltdows". They bolt down to the top triple tree but they don't cliponto the fork at all. Loosen the bolts to the triple tree and they will spin free around the top of the fork. It's the triple tree that clamps onto the fork. So if you could get those handle bar holders (i think that's what they call them because they aren't clipons) in CF you could bolt 'em down just like the OEMs.

If you get rid of the top triple tree all together, you could use true clipons. You would then be depending on your lower triple tree to hold all of the weight. I would be a little cautious with wheelies if I did that. Nice weight loss though. You would need to wire up an ignition switch somewhere other than the top triple tree too. A better course may be to cut an appealing hole design through the top triple tree and make lightening holes in the handlebar holders. They make aluminum top triple trees but they are for strength. They are not lighter than stock. Have the same handlebar holders. Apparently the manufacturer felt strength was important here.

Maybe I'll copy Rooks write-up after he does it for next year..

Have you been combing the archives? I planned to do a modded triple tree a couple years back but i never got the part. Buy a used top triple tree off of Ebay and dremmel away at it.

If I'm still not close to the goals after bodywork, wheels, race gas, and tuning I'll have to get more creative.

Nitrous! 3-400 bucks will get you started down that road. Safe without backups if you are careful. Probably would not try to drag race that way but you have time in LSR.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/29/2017 @ 6:24 PM *

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Thanks chrly, love to read, I'll check it out. Me like I think so many people got interested after seeing "The fastest Indian" Loved the outtakes and actual footage of him with some of his hand made engine parts, massaging them like a fine woman. Was truly his life's passion.

I was going to enlarge the hole in the bar ends and use a countersunk bolt to attach it directly to the clip on. I've already replaced most bolts with aluminum, but I wasn't able to remove the bar from the bracket so I didn't replace the largest bolt on the clip setup yet.
I have a used/damaged triple clamp on the way hopefully. Should be part of the ignition delete. There's no way I'd run the bike without both triple clamps, although the majority of the strain is focussed on the bottom clamp. I wonder how a normal set of clip-ons would feel with a lowered tank?
I might try cutting the raised sections off of the triple clamp, might look ok without the raised sections with normal clip ons.

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Rick, agreed on the Fastest Indian. I had people who are not of the motorcycle community tell me about that movie because they knew I was into motorcycle. That it reached so many people in a positive light was fantatstic.

01/25/17 6:14 PM
Plan on going to the TX mile.

CoolBrzBlu

Are you going in March or October?

* Last updated by: 1wheelpeel on 2/1/2017 @ 10:40 AM *