2007 zx14 iv had for a few months now, within the past few weeks i started to notice that when coming to a stop the idle would drop below 800rpm, didn't think much of it until it stalled at a light, started up and ran good for another week or so. it started to have an issue with low idle that has progressively gotten worse. The past week il start it and after warming itll drop below 700rpm and stall, if i rode it id have to keep it above 1k to not stall, now when it does stall sometimes itll just sit and crank without firing until battery gets to weak, let it sit for a day or so and itll fire back up. Found the idle adjustment on the left side and adjusted it to just above 1k started, let it run for about 15 min sitting then it died on me and would no longer start again, just crank
come out the next day fires up and i shut it off, went to start it again and just crank until battery gets weak. Any ideas? Its progressively gotten worse lol. I dk if a weak battery even while running may cause it to stall and crank but not fire or not. Thought plugs but iv read on here ppl going 20k on plugs and im only at 11k.when it starts and runs, very throttle responsive and what not,acts like usual just doesnt enjoy restarting i guess when hot. Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks

Did you try a fuel system cleaner?

I doubt an air filter could get dirty enough to matter at idle but check off the most obvious.

Could do an engine vacuum sync test but I also doubt that could cause such a sever problem even if way out of whack.

All plugs in snug? All stick coil wires conected?

I say not the battery or charging system. That would cause stuttering at higher rpm and get better at idle.

Power commander has bad fuel at idle? Probably not or it would be all the time.

FUEL FILTER!

Today's gas goes stale in 9mo or less. Used to be longer as I recall, but we are looking at 1.222k miles a year. Battery keeps coming back to restart so it's not that or a charging problem, nor the electrics. Charge the battery or lose it. You're going to have to change out the plugs. You're going to have to make a few days of riding count. That means to empty as much gas out of that bike and keep adding fresh. If you want to clean the injectors, run 2oz to each 5gal or full tank.

I'd start there first since it seems to keep starting?

Seafoam fuel stabilizer and fuel system cleaner. IDK what the recomended dose is but it's on the can. I wouldn't go heavy on the recommended dose with that stuff. Run a few tanks if you want.

Are you still running stock battery? If so I would definitely change it...+

Could be the battery or charging system, couldn't it. Charging is weakest at idle. But why would it start later on if it died while the bike was running? Next time you notice this, look at your voltmeter and that should tell you if it's a dead battery.

I agree with Rook. The battery may have an intermittent short in a cell. If the battery has ANY problems on this bike it can cause all sorts of wacky stuff to happen.

Mad

Change the plugs my bike was doing same my plugs had 3700 miles my #1 plug was dead also changed fuel pump filter
Check ground if you have PCV

* Last updated by: miket on 8/26/2016 @ 7:02 PM *

Definitely check your grounds, battery and if you've got a power commander. Make sure you don't keep cranking the bike otherwise you'll burn out your starter motor.

The next thing I would check is to see if you're a spark at the spark plugs. Then, check all of the connectors above the engine by pulling on the connectors or better yet, disconnect and reconnect (making sure to fully seat the connector and listen for the click). Some of them (like the cam position sensor) will cause an error to show up on the dash but I don't think all of the connectors will set a code if they're not connected.

Thanks for the suggestions, iv let the battery charge on the tender for 4 days now, finally came back with a solid green light which indicates its fully charged, ran all the gas out of it and put fresh in as of today. As of now it seems to start up and run fine...let it run for about 15 min shut it off and on 4 or 5 times, fires right up. Go inside for a secomd come back outside try to start it and it just cranks for a while. So the odd person i am, i started digging in and testing different theories. Found a wire taped together on the killswitch/starter button near the throttle. 2 wires twisted together and taped, red/white to thicker black, saudered them together abd retaped, not any noticed difference but hey,at least its somewhat correct now. What i did learn is that with kickstand up 100 percent of the time when i would lean the bike to the right and try and start it, it started. I could crank it starting from leaning left and slowly straight up then to the right and once it reached a little lean to the right boom, fited right up... i have no idea lol i have a broken bike that works now though so im somewhat happy now.. according to my bikes battery Guage when running its right around 13.6v and if let sitting with key on it drops lower to 9v, once started it cranks back up to 13+. Soo any new ideas on that lol.thank you to everyone whos replied

13.6v is no good. My battery is going on 4 years, within yards of starting and looking down at the voltage, 14.6v on warmup, 14.7v as I ride. Key on, I see 12.8v.

I have a BS type battery. BS means Battery [acid] Supplied.
I pour the acid in the battery, wait over an hour so it saturates the pleats fully.
I run a car battery cable jumper [heat induced] off the battery to a remote high beam and taillight.
I first charge the battery when the soaking has enough time to penetrate the battery fibers, etc.
I hookup the light and tail and begin to drain the battery to 1 or 2v.
I charge the battery up to a full charge and repeat 3 times as per instructions from {techline).
I now install the battery for service.

The aprilia received the initial charge sequence and that batt lasted 6 years with minimal charge. 2009 ape with under 5k miles, do the math, the bike started every time as the new owner was hearing it start, took a ride {cash in hand] and tell me that was not impressive as an initial prep no one does at the dealer level, nor when you buy a battery and install it yourself.

Signed,
NOLTT

New day new news, so roosting down the road all is good, bike dies, still can crank and what not but never fires. Notice the temp guage flashing high then low. Look it up on line sais could be battery related, so figure that seals my issue, go buy a new battery hook her up same thing, temp light flashing crank and no start/no fuel pump,check pcm, ignotion fuses, all good, found a fuse behind the battery, good. Think maybe the fuel pump might have a fuse, so some on the side of the road remind you, i take my tank off to find it has no fosse under there lol. What i did notice os that at a certain positing when arching the tank the fuel pump would kick on and the bike would start again untill i lowered it... got to checking wires, turns out there's a big cluster of wires that runs to the left of the tank to start i would guess is the ecm. I push the wores to the left and hold ot starts, telease it dies, woumd up using zips on them to creat some sort of tension where it would stay running. Now im about to cut into this mess and try to search for a broken wire, am i on the right track lol this harness runs under the tank up the left side of the bike just about every electrical component in the front.

I forget where/how I found the short, but I take small pushes from the starting point A. I inch up on the pushing. In other words, I'm holding a foot of wire harness to be stable, the other 11 inches I am pushing/tugging to see who is broken at the middle, who is loose at the connect point? That's key on, charger on the battery so when the light is on at the headlight, I'm not draining battery.

I either have the harness at the pump at some failure point, or the main harness. Main would be, I lose (+) or do I lose (-)? So at the connectors main harness, I find the hot wire to the pump, set the meter to 20v DC, wiggle the main and see if the (+) drops out?

For the ground, I set the meter to ohms/infinity, then connect the ground out of the main's connector at the pump. I now wiggle the same main harness, see if (-) drops out?

Or, I start at the pump's connector, set the meter at ohm/infinity, try and loop the ground to the hot and wiggle to see if the pump's wires dropout in that loop? I ground the pump with the black meter probe, touch the (+) wire going in, know I'll have some resistance thru the posi wire, but I want to wiggle and see "dropout."

* Last updated by: Hub on 9/5/2016 @ 8:52 PM *

Did you fully charge your new battery before you installed it?