There may be some obscure connection between that 'dead' pit...and yer....'custom' bolts...????J/K;)

Actually, Grn, the bolts I am using are from ProBolt. They are Ti steel. That had me very concerned at first because Ti is not only lightweight, I think maybe it is supposed to be a tougher metal than ordinary steel. Well, turns out tougher metal holds up better to tapping and grabbing which is the approachI am going with first. If that doesn't do it, this stuff does not seem SO tough that I cannot dremmel and drill a vertical axis pilot hole. ....makes me wonder if a soft aluminum bolt shank would be easier to extract or more challenging?

The problem is that these are NOT really rotor bolts. Rotor bolts need to have a shoulder to prevent stretching the threads in the wheel (which I think I did do) and also to better hold and center the rotor in position. CZ really should have designed the front brake rotor carriers better. The rear has larger shoulder bolts. Front to small IMO and should really have a shoulder. I will most likely mod the rotor carrier holes in the future to accept a shoulder bolt or some kind of sleeve. but tghat is for the other thread. This is just about bolt extraction.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/31/2013 @ 6:21 AM *

Looked to me in that last pic there...you could maybe,possibly have enough sticking up now to get a'smallish' pointed tipped vise grip on there,and turn gently?Lock er down real good...then turn?NOT from the top pointing down...from the side.That's what I'd be doing.???Just get a hard bite on there...might work?Won't harm anything if ya scratch the face of that land a bit....gonna be covered with the rotor.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 5/31/2013 @ 8:33 AM *

I may try a vise grips. I think it's best to use something that I can feel the pressure through. Already used a ordinary pliers pointed straight down but that seemed to be crushing the outside diameter. Good point about using the pincher tool on its side. The teeth will grip much better that way.

You know...the pointy ones...not the big thick 'gonna tear shit up' kind;)Get em really tight on there...it should work.With that short amount of shank showing,the big ones would most likely 'crush' the shank at the break before you could get any real turn on it.The pointed ones will allow you to get more bite,yet not go past the break spot(the jaw width).

The pointed ones will allow you to get more bite,yet not go past the break spot(the jaw width).

ah yes, needle nose vise grips. That seems as though that just might be delicate enough for the job. I may head back to HF to find one if the soldering iron doesn't get 'er done for me.

(BTW go to HF just to look at all the stuff. I see tools I never even knew existed. i.e., plastic welders....now that might come in handy.)

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/31/2013 @ 5:12 PM *

I used the soldering gun on the shank. Seemed to help a little. You can see there is some white crud in the threads. That is the locktight. I got it to turn about another 180 degrees with the scribe and hammer and then I used needle nose pliers. I just squeezed them real tight and watched closely to see if there was a grip or if it was slipping. No sense in letting it grind away. If it slipped I tried another angle.

Glad this is over....knock on wood i hope it is over. I'll be putting the CZ screw in the hole for the meantime. I will order another $8 Ti steel bolt from ProBolt but from now on, they all go in about 5 foot pounds. I can't see stressing aluminum like this and obviously these bolts are too small to torque as high as an OEM bolt. I'll just locktight them all and let it go at that for a buck fifty-five.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/31/2013 @ 6:44 PM *

Alright!Congrats Rookster...glad THAT's over;)

You are one determined ____ fill in the blank.