could it be a bad regulator rectifier? If so, how do I narrow this down?
Sequence to narrow it down goes something like this:
1. Charge battery overnight. If it cranks the bike over you had the 'push' (amps) out of the battery. I have eliminated 1 of 3 components that completes the charging loop. I look at it as if the charge could start the bike, then I created a load test showing a good battery.
2. Vo/Reg acts the voltage limiter. It only works one way and if any of the 3 movements fail... cooks the battery. So as AC builds as the crank spins, the VR captures the full wave of volts. Then turns it into DC or captures the one wave so as it can't return back (it does reverse but gets complicated). So think of a 32amp stator a harley uses. Think of the sweep as North has 16a and South pumps out 16a thru the 2 wire ends. That btw is 1 single wire wrapped around those legs and you now have 2 wires pumping out a constant 16a. The VR has a capacitor filling up that voltage being made. The integrated circuit breaks down DTT as: the 'Threshold' it captured in the capacitor. If that part failed, E would run over that capacitor, not into it. That means the VR is junk and over-cooks 16v into the battery. There is a 'Trigger' point where 2v or less is grounded, and the rest you watch the 14+v 'Discharge' into the battery. If the trigger wire was separated from the chip (IC), there goes the 16v not regulated and cooks the battery. The discharge would not head partially to ground and the rest grounds into the battery. No, it is the full 16 or so volts (for argument sake) that keeps boiling the acid into big bubbles, not small size champagne bubbles off a glass>>> being more regulated. This is the full wave from stator to battery. So it separates the plates inside the battery from the boiled liquid bubbles. Therefore, the VR can still ground the 16v of the remaining good wire(s)... It's not the DTT machine.
3. Stator/rotor is the last part of the charging loop. The rotor is a rotating magnet and hardly fails. The stator remains stationary. There are 3 yellow wires going to the VR. This connector can be found under the seat, where the VR is bolted to the seat-fender rail, right side. Those 3 wires are looped to each other so each wire should show the same resistance between the 3 wires at the connector.
So the test would be:
a. Set mulit-meter to infinity or where the horizontal 8 icon is somewhere on the meter's face.
b. Place and hold + probe on one of the yellow pins and leave it there.
c. Probe the - needle or alligator clip to the other 2 yellow wires.
Good = All yellow wires have the same balanced resistance number between them.
Bad = One yellow is going to read different then the other 2 yellows... It's the stator.
Recap:
Batt - Shows it can push the starter over with amps. Surface read 12v means jackshit. It's all about 'load test.'
V/R - E finds the shortest path and it jumps over the surface of the regulator from the yellows directly to batt.
Stator - It has to push volts in a constant N-S pulse so no wire inside the wrapping touches each other or goes to ground or the pulse is not balanced out of each wire.
Good stator pulse = 00000000000000000000000.
Bad stator with pulse drop of 3rd wire = 00-00-00-00-00.
* Last updated by: Hub on 2/27/2018 @ 12:57 AM *
Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time
Different thread but thanks for the inputs. I'll be checking that soon.