Those hard break-ins really chapeth thine ass huh Hub? I think I've seen you mention them in each thread that you've posted in. It's interesting you mention the crankcase pressure. I'm working on a project of my own. It's definitely not a new idea. I just haven't seen it done at this level of racing.

If you do not try to blow a rod out the case, 'you hurta engineer's feelings.' They built this to haul a big fat ass like myself... WOT, me worry?

Ok I'll take the bait. What was that video about? What are all the extra gauges you've got going on? Your new nickname is Shortshift.

Left gauge is in mmHg = Vacuum to rpm.
Right gauge is in AFR = The decimal count of rich/lean/accel pumping.
Hand sigs is to show what the AFR does in L-1-2-3/F-1-2-3-OFF.

The short shifts are twofold: to see the plunge into accel mode and how short or deep the AFR goes? Plus she goes light so I shift out of the front end from coming up.
The hand codes show what effect the AFR does against the map I made.
The short shifts show a 12.8 or .9 say is this one map in the high 12 AFR range. I have a toggle to set one at 13.1 or there about.
The short shifting showed me what codes were doing WOT? I edited out more hand code settings. You just saw the one so I can see who changes AFR, who detunes and the plunging heads where? I've already changed that accel number to go deeper into the 11's.
The study is to watch the AFR meter rather than the road. You're looking at the tach, the AFR, and listening to the note of the engine sound.
The assfactor is now feeling/seeing the AFR head leaner on the L-3 code. Looks to me it aborts the accel mode and AFR moves in the 13 range.
The study showed my installed accel numbers and which way to go on that? My map and how fat/lean I made that? I watch my lines as a sideshow. I get to see what the codes do as they reset the AFR at _______ Fill in the blanks. I get to listen to the feed on acceleration and watch L-3 headed for lean, aborts the accel and now see if it explains watt I see and all that.

Pop?!

Yessir! Makes perfect sense to me.

Arrgh, 2013 zx14r with 7k miles & I have a spun bearing,have a 2k busa w/25k & no issues,talk to my engine guy & he says $2800 for rod,bearings etc. save 500 if I take engine out,warranty is expired so I gotta eat the cost,is this a design flaw,kinda worried to fix & get rid of it or keep & be nervous about it happening again & costly??

This is rare but I've heard of it. Bummer. Sorry. I don't know what to tell you. You could check into a ported crankshaft to increase lubrication. That should give you better peace of mind. I guess I would think it quite possible it would happen again if the only thing that changes is the bearing.

I had a 2010 ZX14 and no problems. I have a 2013 ZX14r and no problems. I think it is one of the best engine / transmissions out there. Especially considering the hp / torque stock, not to mention the modified bikes.

pabusa, be honest... how did you break-in the bike? I'm just guessing, but it could take that much time on the engine to take out that bearing.

Yep.Agree.People(some)ca-ca the break-in.Kawasaki does warn the owner.

BAH break-in my patooty!

If I was a race tech in a shop and I was "brake"en in your bike I would do it exactly like it says on the internet. My bike, the 1st new bike ever, was by the book cause I want to keep it till I'm so old I cant see to drive anymore then give it to a grandkid or a neighbor kid who wants to rage against his parents ...... and I can laugh all the way till my end about it

Gonna be a helluva gift tell ya that;)

sometimes wheelies can bring a lack of lubrification on engine parts , if your an adept of it ?