The easiest way to do it, is to tap the red wire at the battery and the black ground wire too, and run that up front and put a 12-volt outlet up on one of the ram air covers. Make sure its the kind with a waterproof, spring-loaded, cover of course. Also remember to wire a 10 amp fuse inline on the positive wire. You could use a smaller fuse, too, like my gps has a 2 amp fuse, and is still wired into the fuse block I put up front under the ram air cover (double fused).

You could tap a screw into the frame for ground, but since you have to run positive anyway, might as well run negative too. A side benefit, if you ever want to add a gps or something, is you can use Posi-Taps to tap your negative and positive wires as long as you used a fairly stout wire gauge. Just remember to fuse every positive lead you use.

If you want to be able to remove the ram air cover completely from the bike, just wire in a quick disconnect like the ones used for trailers and boats. Waterproof, reliable, easy to connect and disconnect. I have a led on my tank cover which flashes when the alarm is armed. It has a quick disconnect underneath so the cover can be removed from the bike.

I would not tap the headlights for positive or negative. Those wires are just big enough to handle the headlamps with a little bit of slack, if you put more juice on them you are just asking for problems.

I may be tapping my high and low positive to get switching current for my Denali 2 driving lights (they will switch high and low intensity coordinated with the headlights). Those taps will draw way less than 1 amp. Even that makes me nervous.

Despite what Edgecrusher wrote elsewhere, taking the easy solution is very seldom the best solution, and quite often not even a good solution.

Somebody nuke this fucking gold spammer.

Best thing to do is to wire directly to the battery and use an inline fuse to your r.d. power source. I also wired in a switch, but most detectors have one of their own, either on the unit or on the plug connector.