No, not while riding. I want to get the oil to drain backward.

I need to install an adapter at my oil pressure switch port down by the oil filter. Problem is the oil is still dripping even after the bike has sat for a couple months. I really think it's best to use the sealant as directed by the SM but I don't think that would be wise if the oil creeps back into the hole ad I'm tightening the fitting. See how it pools in the port? How can I get the front up about 10-12 inches while leaving the rear low?
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I have thought about cribbing or making a ramp that a front stand could be set atop. Ant other ideas or precautions? I don't have a crane or any strong overhead structures where I am working.

First thing I need to try is my vacuum pump to suck dry that back channel that crosses the oil switch port. If that doesn't remove enough oil, 3/8" rebar through the axle lifted with a floor jack on both sides, rear supported on a rear stand? Any better ideas?

Wish I had an Abba Skylift.

Use your pivot stand, remove rear tire, secure pivot stand so that it can't "de-pivot" and then jack your front wheel up.

Yeah, two guys could actually lift the front when it's on the pivot stand. Only problem is I don't have two guys.

I am a little leery about lifting the front above level with the bike supported at center. I could do the same thing with my rear spool stand and I wouldn't need to remove the wheel...but no way would you lift the front by hand.

I probably could empty a lot of the oil out of that hole just by setting one side of the pivot stand on a 2 x 4 and tipping the bike to the left. After it drains for several hours, put the 2 x 4 on the other side. Now, all the oil left in there runs to the RH side. Wipe out the threads and install the adapter. Hope that works otherwise I'm stuck with jacking or building a ramp.

I'm getting a Skylift someday.

2 ladders and a 4x4 and rachet straps seems like the standard McGiver rig

Last time I changed tires I did what I'm suggesting you try with my Abba. I was rying to save some time without removing the front fender. I figured once I had the rear wheel off, if I put a couple 2x4s (or whatever it end up being) under the rear lift bar (the bar you strap to) it would prevent my Abba from depivoting and then I could jack the front end upward and slide the front tire out without having to remove the fender.

It worked OK and i probably did save a few minutes but it definitely wasn't 100% savings probably more like 50%... so ended up not really being worth it. With the stock 14 fender I still had to wiggle it out, and it was also more difficult getting everything remounted because now it's all higher. As a concept for raising the front end probably a ~foot above the rear it worked fine. It just isn't worht doing to save a few extra minutes with the front fender.

Basically it worked somewhat like you see with the Skylift where the front end was much higher than the rear.

Just a suggsetion. I don't think i'd try it with a rear stand... So much more weight involved than the pivot. Probably looking at trying to lift 500 lbs vs. 200.

Two good ideas. Thanks. Looks like this is going to involve some work no matter what I do.

The pivot stand will need to have weights put on the feet. rear wheel off. I guess i could strap around the top fork clamp. Throw a cinder block under there after it's up.

I would use the ladder technique. I'd think you'd just be able to use some compressed air (I know you're limited) to blow out the threads for enough time to install the parts.

I pushed a 2mm allen wrench with a cloth over it all the way to the back of the hole. I turned it counter clockwise over the threads to remove it. After doing that routine a few times, the oil is gone. The front wheel is down and I checked a few hours later. Still dry. I can wipe some alcohol or brake cleaner in there and it will be degreased and ready to seal. The sealant sets slowly but as long as no oil seeps in before it does, it will be fine.

Thanks for the suggestions. They might come in handy until I get my Skylift.

...just one more detail: when I removed the oil switch from this hole, all the oil ran out of the main oil passage. That was about 3 or 4 oz. I tried wiping it out of the threads in the hole after it dripped a few days but more oil just kept creeping forward. I guess with the warm weather, all the oil finally dripped out.

Well I do believe lucks on your side Rook... no nails no oil forever brother!

Yeah, I guess so. Let's hope it holds out!

So before my lovely wife bought me stands for my birthday this year I used to ratchet strap my bike up using the rafters of my garage when doing wheel work.

If you have a rear stand you could secure the bike with it and strap up the front. I use a huge 4 inch strap from work and could probably lift the front a foot or so if I kept cranking it.

Yeah, projo, I have done that strapping under the air box. I didn't actually lift it up with the ratchet but I took the front stand out snd let the front hang to test steering play. Make sure you have strong rafters if you do it and it's best to hang close to a wall rather than in the middle of the rafter.

I don't have rafters in my storage unit but as someone pointed out, I probably could set up a 4x4 across a couple ladders. It was not necessary though. That job is done, I'm very happy to say and no oil leaks. If you move slow enough, all the oil will drain out before you get to using any sealant. lower the front and let it drain, raise the front on a stand and anything in there will run back.

I actually ended up not using any liquid sealant anyway. I used teflon tape.

Good call on the Teflon tape. I have had bad experience with liquid sealant.

Not with oil systems but I used to build custom trucks and did a lot of air suspension. When I bagged my first S10 I thought liquid sealant would be a good idea for the air fittings. A week later I was tearing apart ALL EIGHT of my air valves to clean that crap out.

I imagine it wouldn't be good for engine oil either!

I think the recommended liquid sealant would have worked well and probably have been more durable if that is even a factor. ThreeBond 1211 gets high praise. The thing was all 3 of the sensors were very small in thread diameter for the holes in my multi-port adapter so I had no other good option but to fatten them up with the tape. I used medium density high temp. Also, IF/when any sensor needs to be removed, I guess I would rather deal with cleaning tape out of the threads than dried sealant (although that is exactly the reason tape is often not recommended for oil fittings). Also, I'm sure the tape is a lot less harsh on the threads if anything needs to be removed a few times before I get it working right. So far, no leaks so all I have to worry about is a sensor burning out.