I installed new front Brake Lines today. I have a Shop Manual and a Mighty-Vac. The Shop Manual said to bleed the Master Cylinder first, then go to the Calibers. I used a Pint of fluid and still no lever firmness. I came into the house and used our site Search and found HUB's recommendation-BINGO!

These type radial masters are common doing this so there is a nipple at the top of the master. Use a closed end 8mm wrench, a paper towel on top of the nipple; open nipple; pull lever to grip; close nipple before you touch the grip. If not once then twice is the charm the lever comes back.

This should be a STICKY.

Do the M/C bleeder LAST.

Thanks HUB!

Thanks HUB!

Guy taught me everything I know... Aint much... But still.

Hub can you do a how to for the motorcycle biathlon? Never heard of such a thing but it looks really fun!

Vic, are you suggesting a 'Meat Puppet' video? I have the bike on the rack. That's the only way I roll.

Well I saw trophies, medals and firearms and figured it must've been a biatholn except stupid skiing 150 mph target shooting... sounds like a blast!

So was this a thread at one time and got deleted. Was hoping to fing some info on this topic.

why what's up stig?

Well I have a leak somewhere in my clutch system and needed to add some fluid as the reservoir was completely empty....again....anyways I figured I would have to bleed the whole system and thought I could find a little info in this thread about bleeding. I wasn't sure whether to bleed at both bleeders (the handle and down below by the engine) and which one I should start with. I ended up bleeding at the top one first and then moved down to the bottom one. Not sure if this is the correct way to bleed a clutch but it seemed to work. I hope.

Best find that leak.How about down below where the slave is at.That black plastic spacer will crack over time.Or from overtightening.Any fluid underneath that slave?Or under the motor there?If it was a line leak,you'd be able to see it coating somewhere along there.OR...possibly at the res cap.Any residue up there?You can follow that line from lever to slave easily.If you remove that cover,be very careful to realign that black spacer exactly as you take it out.In fact,the manual says REPLACE if removed.I didn't.It still worked okay.Check for cracks(has it ever been opened?If so,it may not have been reinstalled correctly)(cracks around the bolt holes in the spacer).It's obviously seeping pretty good.The service manual is your friend;)Bleeding won't help with fluid loss.Clutch chapter in the manual.You DO NOT want to overtighten those bolts...you WILL hear a nice sharp.."CRACK".I think that's why they say 'replace'.They get brittle...so ya gotta be careful if ya reuse it.

This is a suspect part...92049 "SEAL-OIL
92049-0086".This may be allowing fluid to seep past the piston.You would NOT see any leaks anywhere externally.Sounds like this could be your issue.Open and secure piston just as the manual says.If you allow that piston to be pushed outward(which it WILL do if you simply remove the slave cover and just leave it hanging there),you WILL get fluid coming out...that's a no no.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 7/21/2017 @ 11:54 PM *

OK thanks Grn14.....I will have to read that a few more times to absorb it.....But I really appreciate the response and the time you took to post....

Hey...it's okay.Sometimes I go overboard on my posts.Just tellin ya what I experienced with mine.I did crack a spacer...twice.

I have a bleeding tutorial but the pics are out because of photofuckit. I can put those pics up if you want.

Spacer like Grn said or clutch plates worn way out, possibly but not if you have been refilling the reservoir and seeing it go down. I just had my clutch out and the reservoir went from FULL to the bottom. Without the clucth in there taking up space, the slave extends as far as it will go. Seems like that 1/8" thick spacer could cause the same effect almost....but once you fill, should stay up, shouldn't it?

I think a leak most likely at a banjo bolt or a bleeder. If you have good cluch tension at the lever you don't really need to bleed but it won't hurt. I'd make sure the banjos and bleeders are tight. Be careful with those bleeders. Don't over torque them. They can strip. You should see corrosion of paint if there is a leak. If you don't find a leak at a banjo or bleeder, it could be a hose. Otherwise, the master cylinder or slave cylindder seals. Hard to believe that would be the case on such a new bike but possible a seal got pinched, I guess. Sorry no info on replacing seals. I never have rebuilt any of mine yet.