So I am almost done with this. Killing me to have to wait to hear her run. Have to extend the Autotune wiring for the more rearward placement of the o2 sensor bung in this fat ti pipe on the Brocks.
I was running a stock head pipe with 2Bros m2 carbon slip ons and loved the sound and performance just fine. The weight loss and cleaning up of the left side was too much to resist. I tried that titanium look DEI volcanic material exhaust wrap on the head pipe of the stock setup thinking insulating the radiator from the heat cant be all bad and they say it helps scavenge exhaust gasses as well. Soooo, I went ahead and did my new Brock's setup as well all the way to the end of the collector. Might help speed the cool color change of the TI pipe right before the can.
Question: has anybody else installed this setup on a gen 2?
I found the spigot pieces to be a bit long, not alowing a full nut on the exhaust flange studs.
That troubles me a bit. Also the instructions say to use some ultra copper on the INSIDE top 1/2"
Of the head pipes to hrlp create a high temp seal, which makes no sense as the top ends of these pipes fit INSIDE the spigot pieces held against the motor by the flanges... anyone else find this puzzling?

* Last updated by: ironheadmike on 1/30/2018 @ 12:18 AM *

I don't have one of these exhausts but...

I found the spigot pieces to be a bit long, not alowing a full nut on the exhaust flange studs.

Also the instructions say to use some ultra copper on the INSIDE top 1/2"
Of the head pipes to hrlp create a high temp seal, which makes no sense as the top ends of these pipes fit INSIDE the spigot pieces held against the motor by the flanges... anyone else find this puzzling?

Makes no sense to apply that inside the pipe anywhere. I used Permatex copper spray-a-gasket on all the joints of my pipes. I used it on the head pipe gaskets and probably the end of the head pipe that goes in the manifold. I don't believe Brocks pipes are supposed to use header gaskets so probably that was a typo. they must have meant outside top 1/2".

I'd call Brock's about both questions.

Also, ask about the impact of gasses released by fresh copper sealant on O2 sensor readings for AutoTune. I noticed nothing strange but my sealant had been cooked by the time I used AutoTune.

I have a hunch your wrap will cause a mess. I hope not. Probably it will act like an outer ceramic coat but I have been told the performance gain comes mostly from an inner ceramic coating. It's a small gain for the $ but if you ceramic coat, might as well. If I were you, I'd probably coat only the inside and leave the outside Ti patina. What if you need to scrub remnants of that wrap off? Will that remove the colored patina, too?

BTW, lots of weight you could loose off that coolant hose setup. Brackets, hooks, spring...you might get by without the whole oil cooler if you don't ride in traffic. They make oil cooler block-offs. Take the whole damn coolant reservoir off and run a tube out of the fairing. If you don't see the level change, you won't spill more than a couple oz of coolant. They make steel band hose clamps without the bolt. You can only use once and then need to cut off. Also heat shrink collars that secure water hoses. The stock clamps weigh a quarter pound. Spring, hooks and heat sleeves, over 6 oz. Samco makes silicone water hoses for the 14 if you need to replace your stockers.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/30/2018 @ 7:12 AM *

horn and steering stem cover! 3/4 pound the horn wires have contacts---DOn't cut! Check out my tutorial.

Kevlar brake lines. Two line setup. Three line probably lighter and easier but just doesn't look like a race setup.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/30/2018 @ 7:10 AM *

Those flange nuts are on there right.Mine are exactly the same...the flange does not sit flush with the head.I used 'copper' permatex on the outside of the pipes when installing.They've been fine in 25K miles.I also used a small dab of red loctite on the studs.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 1/30/2018 @ 8:04 AM *

No locktite on mine and they have never come loose after torqued to spec. I have heard of them coming loose though....also heard of them being very hard to remove so locktite at your own risk. Red should soften up when hot so that would help in removal. I used copper permatex on my studs. Hope it comes off ok...I want a CT meg someday or the new one Brocks has or a Akrapovich.

Yeah,the loctite is optional.Maybe blue would be a better choice,though I've had no problems removing those nuts.Your pipe is totally cool Daron.I think some of the aftermarket ones are a bit overrated.Your permatex should allow removal nicely.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 1/30/2018 @ 10:21 AM *

Thanks, Grn. I'm getting a little sick of it. I like the noise but I always thought a shorty looks best on the 14 so I'm hoping for a CT meg. The Cannon works good for the busa though. Just a bit on the heavy side. But they were cheap on closeout.

ROOK!!
Did you paint that pipe? I think it is totally badass as well... is it ti?
Thank you for all the lightening intel btw.

I had the stock head pipes wrapped for the last 5k miles... the main motivation for me is insulating the radiator a bit from the heat. Cant hurt right? The wrap on my chopper was done after melting some hide offf my hand and it really made a huge difference! You could accidentally touch the pipe 2" from the head and not get burned. A side bonus if it speeds the patina of the pipe right before the can.
I have my wite extension kit in hand and that little project is about to get prosecuted.

ROOK!!
Did you paint that pipe? I think it is totally badass as well... is it ti?

No, Not Ti. Stainless and about 17 lbs for the whole thing. Thickass pipe walls though. They'll never dent and might just withstand a good blow that saves my motor or oil pan. Tsukigi is qualitry and performance but quality comes at the cost of weight.

I'd go with the wrap as long as you're sure it won't stick. Might be interesting to see if you notice any increase in engine temps when you remove it. I doubt you will notice any but good to conduct these kinds of tests.

BTW, I think you need one of these!!!

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=016872A8-1B78-59F6-028A875C2271CBA2

So the Rook inspired AT200 pigtail cut / solder/ splice project went down today. SUCCESS!
This of course enabled hearing the Brock's CT Single system for the first time. WHOOOO HOOOOOO.
Man that thing barks. A raspy note that howls; "tuning run under way please do not call police"! Bwahahahahaha.
The tank happens to have a healthy dose of 100 octane oxygen added race fuel so the tuning run will have to wait a bit. The map I am running now with the auto tune left on seems to be eyeball flattening already. The thought of improving how this thing runs is funny & fascinating. Can't wait.
Oh yeah, all the ct single buzz helped me overlook the gel channel tech seat that arrived and is now installed.
Rook everything you stated about yours is true on this gen 2 as well. I trimmed the rear most foam block back a bit just to get the cowl to bolt on. The rear of the cowl also sits up 12mm or so ( mashes down a lot when seated)
Trimming the rubber bushings under the seat might be the ticket.

I was thinking of titanium hose clamps? What's the source for one time use hose clamps?