Front and Rear Brake Disk Removal

Brake discs are removed mainly when they are damaged or worn out and need to be replaced. It’s also one thing I have done to be extra careful when replacing tires. I suggest that you mark all parts fasteners, bolts and bolt holes so they can be reinstalled exactly as they were removed. This will maintain wheel balance and established wear pattern.

Tools:
wheel chock (optional)
Sharpie marker
6mm hex tool
3 inch extension
ratchet
new rotor gaskets
nonpermanent thread locking agent
torque wrench

Removal
1. Use a Sharpie marker to mark all bolts to their bolt holes in the wheel and both front rotors right to right and left to left for exact reinstallation. Also mark the sides of the rotors that face out so none will be reinstalled in reverse.

2. Be careful to lever the wrench at a safe angle so you do not roll or lift the bike off the side stand. Use a 6mm hex tool, 3 inch extension and a ratchet to break free all rotor bolts with the wheels on the ground.

Rotor bolts can be hard to break loose. They have thread locking agent applied to them and they are torqued. Be careful not to strip the hex. You can leave the rear wheel on the floor to break the bolts free. Whichever procedure you use, be very careful to not lever the bike over.

3. Remove the front and rear wheel (see Wheel Removal, steps 1 through 7 and steps 20 through 30).

4. Remove the rotor bolts from the front and rear wheels.

Remove the rotor being careful to not drop it.

The rotor gaskets are supposed to be replaced if the rotors are removed.

There should be no problem reusing a rotor gasket a few timers as long as it is not cracked.

Just leave the rotor gasket in place if it sticks to the rotor or wheel and you would like to reuse it.

The rear rotor gasket is delicate.

Installation
5. Install new rotor gaskets, front and rear if you are replacing them.

Aligning the marked rotor bolt holes to the marks on the wheel, match the rotors left to left, right to right and with the proper side facing out.

Use nonpermanent threadlocking agent on the rotor bolts and install the rotors, snugging them up evenly according to how they were marked to the bolt holes in the wheel.

6. Draw up all front rotor bolts evenly.

Draw up all rear rotor bolts evenly

7. Install the wheels to the bike (see Wheel Removal, steps 10 through 19 and steps 33 through 44).

8. Apply non-permanent thread locking agent to front and rear rotor bolts.

Tighten the rotor bolts evenly with a torque wrench.

Torque - front disk mounting bolts: 20 ft pounds.

Torque - rear disk mounting bolts: 20 ft pounds.

Parts Weight

Front OEM Rotors, 5 lbs, 5.8 oz

Rear OEM rotor, 2 lbs, 13.2 oz

Front and rear OEM rotor bolts, 7.55 oz

Total OEM weight, 8 lbs, 10.55 oz

Front Carrazzeria 13 inch rotors. The bolt pattern is for a Carrazzeria rim but just for comparison, 4 lbs, 12.8 oz

Caliper spacers to accommodate 13 inch rotors, .55 oz

Galfer rear rotor, 2 lbs, 0.0 oz

Probolts m6 x 1.0 x 12 mm Ti steal flanged hex head screws for front rotor bolts, 1.15 oz

Probolts Ti steal rear rotor bolts, 1.05 oz

Total aftermarket parts, 6 lbs, 14.55 oz

NET WEIGHT REDUCTION, 1 lb, 12.8 oz

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/3/2017 @ 9:16 AM *

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Hey Rook,i'm modding my old HF tire changer so as to once again to change my own tires.My question concerns the loctight on the rotor bolts.Should I first remove loctight from the bolts and next when preparing to put the rotors back on,should any loctight be used? I remember when I done the rotors on my ZZR that I cleaned the threads and used a small amount of blue locktight.I also would use a small extension on a ratchet,insert it into the eyelets after spraying some wd-40(rotate bac&forth) so as to help the rotors "float" better.Anyhow.....whatca think about the locktight?

* Last updated by: HoltFF1074 on 4/17/2016 @ 12:33 AM *

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Should I first remove loctight from the bolts and next when preparing to put the rotors back on,should any loctight be used?

If the factory lokTite is still on there, I'd just leave that. It's reusable if it's still there. I've used blue lokTite with the factory Lotite and it seems to work fine. What I don't like about the liquid loktite is that it can get to be really tight when you thread the bolt back in. It is really hard to tel if the threads are damaged or if it's just built up loktite. I usually don't reapply loktite if the build up feels real tight. The old stuff is often worth a couple uses.

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Thanks Rook.Appreciate as I'm trying to see others results as I move forward doing maint 1st timers on the 14 since I've owned it.Hoping my mods to my HF changer work out as I also bought the No-Mar mount bar/paste & their "Yellow Thing" to make things a little easier.

* Last updated by: HoltFF1074 on 4/17/2016 @ 12:15 PM *

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I bought one of No-Mars Yellow Thing even though I don't have one of their tire changers. Definitely helpful preventing chasing the tail.

I've changed the rim clamps on my HF changer and also modified for breaking the tire loose by cutting the rise from the bottom and built a wooden frame covered with rubber.Plan to give it a try soon.

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Nice. That Harbor Freight stand was recomended when I got my tire changing equipment but thet were not available. Cheap and works nice.

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It'd be real nice to have a setup like that. I don't have the room and I don't change enough tires to really justify it. Just using spoons and my homemade stand overall it's a lot easier than I thought it would be.

I started out with the HF but got to doing it more for the sports bike guys so I bought a NoMare. Say what you want about wasting money but it beats the hell out of the HF. Change and balance 16 tires on a Saturday so they can play Sunday then 3 weeks later do it again.

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lytnin I thought about the no-mar units myself,but I wouldn't be changing a lot,well maybe more now since I got the 14. I believe the new rim mounts and the no-mar bar may help.I even decided to start raising the clamps about 1 1/4" tonite,so a lil more mods before using. I must say I do get tempted for one of their changers. Never say never I suppose!

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Lytnin was kind enough to change a pair of tires for me once. Watching him convinced me of the real economy of the No Mar rig compared to cheaper types. So some friends and I threw in and bought a No Mar Classic. I was changing all their tires (and mine) with levers and sweat before and now it's a breeze. By the time you get finished welding the H-F unit and adding all the No Mar accessories to make it work, you could have had the real thing.

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Danno,i bet you prob made Big O (aka Mike) chip in his $5 for getting that changer! lol,couldn't resist saying that.You may be right as I may eventually move forward for the No-Mar,But currently I just thought I'd give it A shot modifying my HF unit as I'm tryin to prep for the Ky ride taking place in May,But even with the total cost of the xtras and the changer I've less than $300 tied up.Of course my own time of welding and use of some scrap metal.If this thing works out I will continue to use and maybe make me a better center support bar of about 1.25 dia instead of the 5/8 bar I now have that I fab some centering pcs for so as to keep movement a minimum.I do like how portable/storage friendly the unit is as my garage floor is prep so to bolt it down when needed.Good as my garage is small and needs for all the space I can save! Danno,you need to ride on over to KY with us as I've not yet had the chance to meet you yet.Suppose i'll be stuck seeing Mike again though! Later,DeWayne

* Last updated by: HoltFF1074 on 4/22/2016 @ 11:20 AM *

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