I got to the track (rode 114 miles one way) and unloaded my gear. Let some cars put rubber down and then made my first pass.

I am not even going to say what my best et was because it was silly stupid. I will only say my best mph was 142.99.

I got one run down that I had the tire up in first and second. The rest of the runs I was setting the front tire down around the 880-1000 mark. It was skipping from the 660 to 880-1000 ft mark. The front end bounced A LOT! I was trying to keep it down hence the bad ets.

So just to say I was utterly disappointed in every run. I just gave up and went home.

Sunday I lowered the rear 1 1/2". Set the front suspension a little and took it for a spin. 3/4 quarters of my wheelie problem gone! I was launching harder on the unprepared street than at the track. I am going to slip the forks up a little n possibly but behave to machine my risers to let me do so. And remove a bushing in the handle bars as well. I might just strap it for now and machine a new set of risers myself.

The bike is totally different with the rear lowered. WAY more stable for me. I am now on the balls of my feet instead of tip toes. Once I lower the front u think I ll be closer to flat foot and that will help out more.

Todd

* Last updated by: customizedcreationz on 4/14/2014 @ 7:48 AM *

If I look at the leg it has a taper from bottom of the lower triple tree on down.
If that taper moves up past the lower pinch bolt, did you not try to tighten a V at those two pinch bolts?
That's about as low and you can go, you still pinch the machined straight cut to the lower bolt, yes or no?
If I drop the back, I step out the front like a chopper with extended fork legs.
If I drop the front, I am back to half the chopper look, still kicked out with the back lowered.
If I stayed stock in the rear, dropped the front, I have a shopping cart kind of handling. Wobble me a ____ Fill in the blank.
If I keep the back lowered, pinch the forks so they II, not V the lower pinch bolt, I am still kicked out... Only my 100% cotton briefs knows for sure.

You would have to see my bar risers to understand what I am talking about. I am unsure who made them. The bike is still higher than the back by naked eye view.I will keep the factory rake by lowering the front the same amount when I can machine the risers or when I strap it down.

Todd

He isn't down to the taper yet Hub. I'm not even down that far.

I have quite a bit of room before the taper. The forks are at stock height right now.

Todd

I have no clue where you guys are taking a measurement, but I'm getting about 4 tapers no including the pinch area I can't measure. But I could see me moving the fork up about less than a 1/2 inch and that's counting half of the pinch bolt's center for max drop. See where I am? I'd have to drop the taper under the lower part of the pinch bolt itself so the bottom pinch is all the way around it, not cheating at 1/2 of the bolt's diameter? That's half a squeeze missing at 1/2 the bolt diameter. See it?

Think of it like this. You can grip your dick and that's a solid pinch around the tube with your fist. I want to see you have the same grip, go take your inner elbows and hold your dick: where are your hands? In a V = Yes or no? That's a pinched penis go extend your whatever drop it down.

Do this backyard move. I do not have a shop manual, nor the internet. But I sure did pull the fork down and there is only one taper for the bottom triple the fork centers to, give or take a mm or about there. So, I push my fork up the lower crown, go past the flat, now I see shadow under the lower crown's pinch area. I see taper entering.

I now drop that one fork down and low and behold, the fork took up the gap is that flat machined spot for the pinch. There is my stock position at the very shadow of the taper, meaning, it stays outside the crown or just below it. I now have my other fork to go up the other side. I've torqued the lower pinch bolts on the one fork. I now have axle in hand.

There is a stationary fork and a floating fork. I am going to X the Y to the axle to the forks. This move means that I can spin the axle in both forks, I made the floating fork line up the X to Y is the front wheel is so easy to slide the axle thru? Like butter. Show me the A-hole with the hammering in and hammering out, it's not as close as a float to fit in perfect static, no top fork measuring each one at the upper crown from the book shit. Not in my pit.

Hub I understand some of the things you say, but damn.... pinched penis, sometimes I am totally lost LOL.

Todd

Using parts of the human body vs a bike part does meat in the middle sort of speak. I've got a really obnoxious, off the cuff, take one, and package it kind of video. If it passes the 'sensors,' I mean, hurry and watch it before the penis police... comes and slaps my movie for censorshit penalties. Oh, you two guys are going to gethe WATT4 for dis!

but damn.... pinched penis, sometimes I am totally lost LOL.

I'm thinking, how can I get this across to someone about pinching air? How can I explain the loss of one full length of a fork pinch. If I think about it, I raise the fork half way up the lower crown's full distance. You add up both bottom fork pinch sides = Zero pinch on 1 fork vs full surface pinch length ~ Wobble of the loose kind.

To me, that sure looks like the bite is gone from one fork bottom side. Will it work to move the forks up half way? Sure it will work. They are still pinched some. How do I lock that air gap of a taper with the lower pinch bolt? I've got to shim it then. That's my only way out I go messing with wheel snap hitting the ground and what are the odds the wheel is pointed straight or do you leave a white smoke patch before it straightens out again.

Now, did the bars move to one side like you crashed it? Then the lower tree did too. That's the pinching odds you play with. I won't, you can. If everyone is doing the air pinch and it's fine, fine by me. That won't fly in my pit. I'm just saying. I rather cut the springs internally and drop it that way. Springs are cheap. Machine shim a sliding collar up that gap? Who is cheaper to do?

Then I thought... How high can I come out the top crown before I hit taper there and have to stop?

That was some funny shit!

Todd

You can push them through until the fender stops downward progression. I have removed the pinch bolts completely and have been unable to move the the forks up or down. As far as I'm concerned this is not a safety issue. Been there... Done that.... Still racing

custom, I guess you understand my humor.

The front end bounced A LOT!

Beats me? This stiff is an art in itself. Brock has that rear end squat adjustment video. There is something to that rebound theory. The faster you can get that thing back down on the ground, the more contact feel and all that up the bars.

I've got seen your moment written all over my bike. I'll write down the torque values on the lower pinch so I know both upper and lower pinches. I've got a 4 written in a top fork and I know that's the rebound number, added a 3 for the compression number a few days back: after I banged on something too harsh for that base comp number. So this is a bang setting waiting to happen.

Don't follow my numbers because I'm aiming for a plush number, not a race number. But the more comp I add, I can tell that 3 is a bit hard, but any harder and I'm going to like it too much and step it up to feel the change. I rather not go there. I have too many tickets piled so I'm coasting for now.

I don't know if there's a rebound adjustment try in your next run, but bounce is in the forking, and bounce is in the rearing. It's a balance thing or a rebound thing. It's more of an art ending the bounce A LOT.

Bouncing is also throttle adjustment errors. Smooth application of power is a way to counteract a wheel stand. Ask me how I know?

Hub that video had a creepy rating of 10/10. Also, why does your bike look like you're doing R&D for nasa?

Hub that video had a creepy rating of 10/10.

Also, why does your bike look like you're doing R&D for nasa?

I can understand that sir. I'm more of the reactive type rather than proactive. Both ways get the job done, although your way is faster in the long run. Thank you sir!

Don't worry about your ET yet.
These bikes are one of the hardest things to get going quickly with all the factory enforced interference.
You work on one thing at a time and watch the ET come down and the MPH go up.
For me deleting the safety maps and the slipper clutch got me heading in the right direction.
Logging data is also starting to get me onto what's happening and why.
The 60's and first 330 are what I'm attacking now.

* Last updated by: 1400R on 4/18/2014 @ 2:05 PM *

There you go R. Get those short short times down and the rest will work itself out.

Thanks Mav.
You have been a big help.

There it is what you are saying about rebound hub. Go two clicks LESS out from full stuff in the front than comp...
Tell me you don't smile right.
That rear needs 1/2 turn more comp than stock and a 1/4 on the reb. Once done and in, you won't come out agin!