Pretty sure I read on one of the forums about a guy who had one of these and got it to work.
Hopefully, you can too...

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Untamed I Brought this over from E-Mails as others are asking as well. Because your asking and you have the interest I know you can do this.

Your Exhaust leak will play some role in scavenging on decell. With Forward TPS should have little effect on our numbers but let's please start over from map attached above.

Guys this is not a closed discussion and will start very Basic, jump in if you have something you want to ask or add.

Ok, Subject, best way to build a Map using Auto Tune Software. Lets Begin.

First, open the PCV software, go to top left heading options, Now Click, Environment options, Place check in Table Cell Tracer. Single Cell.

Under box map preferences, place check mark in show Auto tune tables. Then close.

Now go to power commander tools, configure, Features Enables And Input selections, Now place Check in Auto Tune and click on configure. Now we set Max Enrichment and Min Enleanment. Make this # 20% in Both. For now,,,, We will come back to this. Big Subject.

Now Open AFR table. Place 13.5 in all cells. AFR Table now built. (This is only a place to start, more on this later).

Make sure AFR Table is 13.5 in the 1000, 1200, Zero TPS

Start Bike, insure cell tracer is active moving through the fuel cells.

(Watch You Bikes Temp, DO NOT REV BIKE TO REDLINE !!!! If you have a fan place it in front of Rad until you become faster at this.)

While bike is at idle your AFR should be displayed on your Laptop screen, Right hand side. Study and listen closely as your bike speaks to you. You will hear AFR auto adjusting. AFR will now show 13.5

Now rev the bike up really slow. Letting Cell tracer sit in each window long enough to make changes and create your desired AFR from table.

Now cell tracer will jump to the 2% Row as you very slowly twist the throttle

Repeat the move up in RPM Slowly until cell tracer jumps to 5% row

Now cell tracer will move up to 10% TPS row.

Now allot just happened. You will have noticed cell tracer skips from one TPS to another not touching all the fuel cells. This is important to understand how forward movement of TPS affects the map. As will become clear later on in this discussion.

Now we study,,,, AFR in those cells touched should have all moved to 13.5 AFR Correct ?

Once that step in completed We must now go back to Trim table and study. What We are trying to learn is what does "Your" bike want for fueling. Auto Tune tells you exactly what #'s to add or minus. To see these numbers Click Get Map bottom left, click on Trim above. All #'s should be visible.

How am I doing is this making any sense ? I keep thinking I am missing something.

From here all should be ready to move forward,, Yes ?

That's one hella Chinese music ya got goin on there.Were those ducks in there?.I trust you ran those files(in the folder)through your antivirus program first.And also the unit files...after you connected to the computer.

Your instructions sound very good...I don't have one...but I'm likin your tutoring;)

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 9/9/2015 @ 8:21 AM *

That's one hella Chinese music ya got goin on there.Were those ducks in there?.I trust you ran those files(in the folder)through your antivirus program first.And also the unit files...after you connected to the computer.

WTF, hey green are you seeing my post in Chinese spam ??? All looks good on my End

Your instructions sound very good...I don't have one...but I'm likin your tutoring;)

I hope so, if anything stops making sense please point it out. The job at hand is to teach the members they can do this all on their own. Dyno-Jet just ride the bike instructions does not give them much of a fighting chance.

Romans check your email inbox, sent map.

How am I doing is this making any sense ? I keep thinking I am missing something

All makes sense. Loaded map did as instructed. I'm a bit wary at idle on 10% throttle so I didn't stay there long.

* Last updated by: untamed on 9/9/2015 @ 9:25 AM *

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Ok, now bare with me. First time doing this Print screen pics

Test Pic

All makes sense. Loaded map did as instructed. I'm a bit wary at idle on 10% throttle so I didn't stay there long.

Nor should you. Well done. The job is to see what your bike wants, your air your fuel your elevation. Currently numbers point to your bike is running Real Rich.

Now what I need you to understand is the numbers seem very odd to me but they do indeed tell a story. What I'm finding odd is your needing to pull 20% fuel to get a 13.5 AFR at idle. So now I must ask why ? Where do you live ? What is your elevation ? Did you bike have soot on the tail pipes before you started ? Air filter clean ? You 100% for sure have your Air injection hose removed correct ? Also thinking 20% number we placed in your Max Min is the only reason numbers stop at 20,,,,, For me Alarm Bells going off. I'm only at 70 meters above sea level. My numbers are -2 % Also asking my self what did I miss ????? Was your bike warmed up, was it on the choke fast idle ?

Sorry but if we are going to make perfect I will be asking what seems like silly questions. But I have too.

Untamed, go into Map Tools, Auto Tune Tables, Accept trims, Now send map, then click get map confirm Fuel Cells populated with Trim #'s. Confirm Afr is indeed 13.5 at 0% 2 % & 5% Send me copy of map. I want to see if your bike still wants to pull fuel

Now here is what the All your Trims look like added to my original map. Tells me your first runs compared to second runs are yielding the same Trim numbers to get same AFR in your new idle test runs. Let me guess you live at 4000 feet above sea level ?

I must be close. My OCD has gott me going through all the maps you sent me. I was thinking your 02 sensor but now I'm sure you live up in the clouds lol Help fill in the blanks

* Last updated by: Romans on 9/9/2015 @ 11:52 AM *

Romans - Sent map to your email

Now what I need you to understand is the numbers seem very odd to me but they do indeed tell a story. What I'm finding odd is your needing to pull 20% fuel to get a 13.5 AFR at idle. So now I must ask why ? Where do you live ? What is your elevation ? Did you bike have soot on the tail pipes before you started ? Air filter clean ? You 100% for sure have your Air injection hose removed correct ? Also thinking 20% number we placed in your Max Min is the only reason numbers stop at 20,,,,, For me Alarm Bells going off. I'm only at 70 meters above sea level. My numbers are -2 % Also asking my self what did I miss ????? Was your bike warmed up, was it on the choke fast idle ?

I live in Johannesburg - We are 5750 feet (1750 mtrs) above sea level.
Soot in exhaust pipe, however not excessive, no residue or anything else. No typical smell of fuel/running rich.
Air filter relatively clean. done 3000 km since changed. (Std air filter with metal gauze removed.)
Pair system definitely removed and blocked off at airbox and engine side. (resistor in terminal to eliminate error lamp)
Bike was warmed up properly before i started.
no fast idle (sent a pic of the screen before I started)

On a side note - After accepting trims the idling was a lot better.

* Last updated by: untamed on 9/10/2015 @ 9:44 AM *

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I live in Johannesburg - We are 5750 feet (1750 mtrs) above sea level.

Ahhh, 5750 now all is making sense,,, So my assumption that your Min fuel settings numbers were bottomed out was correct. This also tells me I should have asked you where you live First before Starting. We are both learning here. All Good.

Untamed, If you read any of my earlier thread posts you can clearly see that one Flash will Not work well in all Bikes in all locations. Nor will one Fuel map fit all bikes with the many different mods that are available. Important that all understand the bike can only adjust so much on it's own. My studies show these bikes do almost nothing are their own (Different topic)but that debate will live on.

On a side note - After accepting trims the idling was a lot better.

Now that you have the tools to make perfect For your Bike you are going to be amazed the difference of how your bike was meant to run. All internet Bull goes out the window. The Map you make will be your own. Share it with your buddies, they owe you a beer lol

I will study what you sent.

Ok the trim #'s show here copy paste into map I have posted above with your earlier Fuel Cell Data Logs or those 500 mile run info will be lost. No need to dismiss those runs. Small exhaust leak at wide open will not have made much difference. Also good place to log from.

After this is done I want to talk about staircasing in your AFR Table and how to avoid fuel dumping on decell.

Also need you to mark off your handlebars Throttle positions using Cell tracer. Should look something like pic below. Sorry its old picture quality is shit. But I hope you get the idea. If anyone else is reading this and does not understand how to do this I will explain if needed. Very hard to know what skill level the reader is at so please ask.

* Last updated by: Romans on 9/11/2015 @ 8:39 AM *

Rick, how about assuming most of us know little to nothing about the ecu's and are inquisitive and eager to learn.
Do you have the time to use this as a tutorial on ecu flashing?

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Added trims from 500kms and low throttle run. Some of the new fuel numbers seem big but if I understand correctly not to worry.
Marked off TPS. (2-10% so close it's just lines)

* Last updated by: untamed on 9/11/2015 @ 11:19 AM *

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Rick, how about assuming most of us know little to nothing about the ecu's and are inquisitive and eager to learn.
Do you have the time to use this as a tutorial on ecu flashing?

Of course Hank, I love teaching. Combined knowledge helps us all. Some students are always going to surpass the teacher and give back volumes of quality input. I expect that. And this what I've always hoped for.

Easy for all to look back in this thread and see where and when I stopped teaching the truth. I'm thinking now, after a couple of years of BS minds are now open once again. Those who want to learn will. Others will always be swayed by the belief of the Magic Pill. No snake oil for sale here, sorry. Hopefully we can bury that belief for some

Special Thanks to blkmisy for teaching me how to screen print. Cheers

Added trims from 500kms and low throttle run.

Great, send me copy.

Some of the new fuel numbers seem big but if I understand correctly not to worry.

Some numbers seem Big to the Minus for me too. Glad to see your thinking. Not to worry is wrong. Always worry, the bike is talking to you. You must listen.

Ok how to recognize Lean and Rich conditions is really important here. Especially if you do Not have a AFR gauge display.

Rich Extreme.
your bike will chug, lumpy rpm roll up. Blk smoke, plugs go out etc.

Lean Extreme
Your bike will fall forward, will feel like spark went out, pushes forward but power feels weak. Some describe this as smooth but bike is slow...... Danger Danger.

Bare with me guys, I'm just very worried I miss something that I think of as common sense that may not be that way to the reader.

I will come back to this. The Newest Romans Family addition is pissing on my floor. Too cute to get mad at

Ok, now we have map below installed into the PCV I want you to take note of the AFR table. Take a close at how the numbers you made using cell tracer. Do you see how they Staircase in the lower RPMs ?

This is the area where you ride all the time. In town leaving a stop light whatever. This is also the area where unburned fuel dumps from quick throttle movements. You know fast forward throttle then quickly let off. That quick squirt of fuel makes a absolute mess of your bottom end when you let off. 02 sensor smells it and sends signal to lean out in your trim file based on misinformation. Because TPS is always moving back and forth here impossible to leave AFR Auto tuning Turned on. Make sense ?

We Do Not Want this slamming Rich Lean, Rich Lean. So,,, I want you to go in your AFR table and remove that area which is our fuel dumping ground for 95% of our daily driving. Adjust your AFR table before heading out for street tuning.

So once again with cell tracer on, have AFR table up on your screen do slow throttle ups. Cell tracer will show you where we run and what to turn off. Skip this step and your map bottom becomes a mess. 0% 2% & 5% really important to make perfect. If forward TPS cell tracer did not touch fuel cell we dont want it.

Now once this has been done. I want you to remove completely the 2% and 5% Rows in the AFR Table. Keep only 0% column at 1000, 1200 RPM.

Now we are ready for street tuning. Let me know if you have any questions up to this point.

Also please confirm on your lap top AFR is indeed 13.5 with fuel numbers shown at idle.

* Last updated by: Romans on 9/12/2015 @ 9:07 AM *

I already have a couple questions about terminology (which I think best to save for later) but so far this is very easy to understand. I've been waiting for this. Carry on gents!

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Thank you Romans and your right, the little guy is much to cute to get mad at.

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Did someone say, "lil' beasts!?"

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Growing fast, from this pic of 7 weeks old. 9 weeks now, he's all growed up lol

I already have a couple questions about terminology (which I think best to save for later) but so far this is very easy to understand.

Hey Rook fire away if you have any questions. Now is the time. Afterwards you can do a proper write up. I suck at this sort of thing. Getting my point across not always easy for me. Trying

Again forgive my simple questions.

So once again
with cell tracer on, have AFR table up on your screen do slow throttle ups. Cell
tracer will show you where we run and what to turn off. Skip this step and your
map bottom becomes a mess. 0% 2% & 5% really important to make perfect. If
forward TPS cell tracer did not touch fuel cell we dont want it.

Now once
this has been done. I want you to remove completely the 2% and 5% Rows in the
AFR Table. Keep only 0% column at 1000, 1200 RPM. So once I've done the low throttle run I clear/zero all cells in the AFR table ( not fuel table) that do not show any trims?

Do I then accept trims for those that have got numbers in?
What happens to the previous fuel cells that we had numbers in but we're not touched by this series of low throttle runs? Do I zero them to?

Simple questions are the ones I like the most. Tells me where you are in the understanding of the tool we are using.

Best answer I can give is to repeat the low idle runs on top of what you have now. Accept the trims if you have a AFR readings of 13.5 Then delete AFR rows as instructed above. From here we can move to the street tuning.

Study your numbers. From what I can see thus far any Numbers that pull more than 20 to 25% look closely at. Use your idle numbers as your guide(after you accept the trims) When Auto tune stops adding and taking away your in the Zone.

Another note Run one kind of fuel to keep all things equal.

Let me know when this is complete so as we can move forward.

* Last updated by: Romans on 9/12/2015 @ 6:11 PM *

!!!! If you have a fan place it in front of Rad until you become faster at this.)

IDK if anyone else was confused by this but now I get it. Romes is talking about a window box fan or something similar to help cool the rad. LOL I thought you meant 'move the bike's rad fan to the front! LOL WTF?

If you read any of my earlier thread posts you can clearly see that one Flash will Not work well in all Bikes in all locations. Nor will one Fuel map fit all bikes with the many different mods that are available.

I never knew enough about this to really press the issue but I sure as hell have brought it up in PMs and even on threads. The whole issue was swept aside. Hopefully now, we get a real understanding of how important tuning STILL is, even if you have a flash. ...your engine is unique. It's not the engine the tuner used to make his flash and he may not have had your exhaust and other possible mods.

Do you see how they Staircase in the lower RPMs ?

I understand the explanation of on/off throttle at low rpm and how that is useless for mapping but I'm not sure what you mean by "staircasing" of the fuel trims in the table.

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Cracking little addition Romans.
The missus and I will also be getting a pup and kitten when we get to Queenstown...

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!!!! If you have a fan place it in front of Rad until you become faster at this.)

IDK if anyone else was confused by this but now I get it. Romes is talking about a window box fan or something similar to help cool the rad. LOL I thought you meant 'move the bike's rad fan to the front! LOL WTF?

Ahh see what I mean Rook I need this kind of input. I know I'm going to have trouble getting my points across. Should be you doing this. You were born to teach. Please Help when you can.

Yes you are correct A fan in front of the radiator. If the member spends to much time playing after operating temps are reached.

If you read any of my earlier thread posts you can clearly see that one Flash will Not work well in all Bikes in all locations. Nor will one Fuel map fit all bikes with the many different mods that are available.

I never knew enough about this to really press the issue but I sure as hell have brought it up in PMs and even on threads. The whole issue was swept aside. Hopefully now, we get a real understanding of how important tuning STILL is, even if you have a flash. ...your engine is unique. It's not the engine the tuner used to make his flash and he may not have had your exhaust and other possible mods.

Yes you got it. If you think about how simple this is, why is it so hard for the masses to understand No going outside the science. In this case we all have the same bikes, with the ability to take in the same air, the same amount of fuel. How we burn that fuel is and can be the only discussion. I must admit I do shake my head when I read one bike made 190 hp and the other made 213 with the same mods same flash. Hurts my head.

Ok, how we burn the fuel Credit goes to the Drag Racer. He alone gives us the AFR numbers needed to make the fastest back half mile per hour. In the case of the 14R she wants 13.7 to 13.9. Gen 1 bikes 13.1 to 13.3. So if these guys are making the real world numbers here, we must tuners listen. Or be slower ?? To many tuners are using the Gen 1 #'s and not listening to what's important.

Now here is a question for all of you. What is your bikes running AFR ? If you don't know well,,,,, here is where the work needs to be.

Do you see how they Staircase in the lower RPMs ?

I understand the explanation of on/off throttle at low rpm and how that is useless for mapping but I'm not sure what you mean by "staircasing" of the fuel trims in the table.

Ok, staircasing is a term we use when laying hardwood floors. Sorry, maybe I should not have used that term here. The term is used to describe a visual effect.

When you open Your Throttle, the forward motion of the fuel cell tracer goes down the stairs in the fuel table as well as the AFR table. This is under normal riding conditions. This is the area that tuners most often Neglect. Now if we stab the throttle the cell tracer will jump quickly to the corresponding rows. With that being said we must leave those AFR tables turned on for tuning. Make sense ?

As you can see more to this than just ride the bike as Dyno-jet tells you

Table shown is just a example

* Last updated by: Romans on 9/13/2015 @ 8:58 AM *

Romans - check mail box.

With pic above I understood better what you were saying as far clearing AFR numbers. What i sent you looks similar.

!!!! If you have a fan place it in front of Rad until you become faster at this.)

IDK if anyone else was confused by this but now I get it. Romes is talking about a window box fan or something similar to help cool the rad. LOL I thought you meant 'move the bike's rad fan to the front! LOL WTF?

Ahh see what I mean Rook I need this kind of input. I know I'm going to have trouble getting my points across. Should be you doing this. You were born to teach. Please Help when you can.

Yes you are correct A fan in front of the radiator. If the member spends to much time playing after operating temps are reached.

The fan is understood, every bit of cooler air on the radiator is good. very important as temps can go up quickly especially when its 30deg celcius outside.
What I do want to ask is how many runs are needed to get accurate information or is one run enough?

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Should be you doing this. You were born to teach. Please Help when you can.

haha--a teacher has to have knowledge of what he's going to teach before he can teach it. With your know-how, you're doing just fine. This process is a lot more detailed than how to change oil or tighten a chain. There's a lot of questions about WHY as well as the usual HOW questions. It's mighty convenient that this is almost entirely digital instead of the greasy, sometimes painful wrench work we usually do. So far, it appears anyone who has a PC5, Autotune and a laptop can follow this. I doubt most would get a solid concept without hands on experience but that is the case with anything. ..so, you lead, we'll follow and if there's need for a separate tutorial with some more step by step illustrations and peripheral info, Id love to write that up. ...maybe go right to the beginning and talk about how a map works, how a PC/flash works, what AFR is, how is it effected by elevation and mods, what is lean, what is rich, how do those effect engine performance.... yada-yada.

For now I'm getting the procedure but will get the laptop out there ASAP....about time I finally put those fancy blinking electronics under the seat to use. It will be interesting to see how the current map compares to the one you sent me.

Just to get us back on track...
untamed:

What I do want to ask is how many runs are needed to get accurate information or is one run enough?

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/13/2015 @ 9:52 AM *

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