Really nice lookin.(don't wanna sound ignorant here Dogo...but your "last" 14 gave up the ghost,yes?)That was the one with the hole in er belly?

Yep. Last one was a blue '06. Blew it up at just over 13k on the odo. New one is a silver '08 with a whopping 90 miles on 'er... so far.

Just wanted to thank Rook for this thread. Just what I needed to get my fender eliminator and led plate light installed! Also just because Im a bit anal and there was a pic missing from step 12, I took one.

Glad if it helped you retsam .. Thanks very much for the pic. I edited it into the tutorial at step 12.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/24/2011 @ 11:07 PM *

thank you men you save me a lot of time

Cool. This info pertains to the 14r too, hey? I am glad. Actually, I have wondered how much of this stuff would be useful to owners of the new bike. Hopefully, most of it.

What is that you used for the bracket?

* Last updated by: toledoUPSguy on 7/15/2012 @ 10:02 AM *

^^^That was DogoZX's pic. He used the OEM bracket that is attached to the rear fender. I do not know how he has it attached to the undertail. I would PM him for info if it is not included in this thread.

What is that you used for the bracket?

For the "L" brackets I cut the factory brackets that were for the front reflectors (on the forks). I just cut them down... and the bracket bolted to them that holds the license plate is factory.

very nice, thanks for the reply.

YW.

"Rook I dont understand why you tore apart the whole back end to do this job? all you really need to do is remove the tool box and move ecu outta the way. like the how to pics but imo you took it much further than you needed to for this mod lol i think you just like undressin the old girl lmao"

Yeah, you're right.

The brake light and sides of the tail need to come out in order to get a wrench on the last nut that holds the fender to the underside. The front two bolts (under the ECU) that fasten the fender have threaded sleeves that remain stationary but the back one has a nut and washer instead. When I turned the bolt under the bike, the nut rotated so it was necessary to hold the nut with a wrench. It was also a lot easier to pick the nut and washer out of there after the bolt was removed. Maybe some people are lucky enough to have that nut stick while they turn the bolt and they don't mind leaving the nut and washer in there to bounce around until it falls out. I am a bit of a perfectionist, I guess.

Rook you do some excellent tutorials here that many appreciate but in this case I have to agree with Scottjykl. Alot of those steps are eliminated if you simply just lift the hole ECU/relay box right off their mount.

I believe there is the screw that your removed everything to find

and one of these makes it easy to pick up those loose stray nuts and bolts so they don't have to rattle around and fall out.

I can't take credit for any of this. I forwarded this thread to my friend bigbore when he bought his blue 14r and our friend dave (an aircraft mechanic) looked at it and did it this way in about 15 minutes total including the bolt light. Me, came off great but couldn't find a bolt light locally today.

Thanks again for all the effort you take doing these.

I'm also thinking about skipping the brackets all together and just bending the plate and bolting it on that way.

edit: will take a better picture tomorrow in the day light

* Last updated by: toledoUPSguy on 8/18/2012 @ 11:24 PM *

Rook you do some excellent tutorials here that many appreciate but in this case I have to agree with Scottjykl. Alot of those steps are eliminated if you simply just lift the hole ECU/relay box right off their mount.

Thanks for the post, toledoUPSguy. If you can remove all the bolts, then leave the tail fairings on and et yourself a magnet pickup tool. Whatever works for ya!

I updated step 4 to indicate that many people skip steps 4-10.

I'm also thinking about skipping the brackets all together and just bending the plate and bolting it on that way.

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/20/2012 @ 3:21 PM *

Thanks for this thread!

Here's my take. I had an LED tag light laying around and decided to put it to use.

works much better that way than as a bolt light, i'll bet.

I have bolt lights that attach the plate to the brackets on my busa and I had to shim them out a bit so the shadow was not so extreme. It was very hard to read the #s on my plate with the bolt light situated at such a sharp angle/// \ \ As you can see, there is a ribbed plastic endcap I used as a spacer to hold the boltlight out another ~3/8"

one advantage I see by going with one of these bolt lights (which will be plenty bright without a second one) is that you have a longer threaded piece than the tiny LED light I got. Even with the spacer and the bracket and the lic plate, you still have some enough thread to fasten it with the nut. There would be anice little stump sticking up inside the 14s tail so you can slide a shrink wrap on there or some other protective tubing.

Looks good, jt.

Mocked up before paint.

From behind.

I'll have to grab a finished pic with the light on. It looks much better.

Looks like you used the lic plate bracket off the fender and bolted it under the the tail to the holes just ahead of the ones I used for my setup with the L brackets. You have a section of aluminum angle molding ...easy to drill and cut..to bolt the plate to.
Nice reuse of OEM parts. Like that... and I'm sure it's a bit more sturdy than my L brackets. Bit convoluted though, IMHO. Your not achieving anything more than the L brackets.

...except you will not need to run to the hardware store to get them.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/12/2013 @ 1:56 PM *

My choice in lighting made everything harder.

My tag light solution isn't that great either. It only lights the top half of the plate. No big deal; I usually just skip the lighting, so it's a lot more than I typically have. There happened to be a hole there and I happened to have the LEDs, so I went for it.

I was going to use both LEDs as plate bolts, as they were intended, but if I did that I'd have to pull the wiring every time I changed plates. Too much hassle.

* Last updated by: jtemple on 5/13/2013 @ 11:51 AM *

No plate lights here...If I do ride at night...any Highway Trooper is gonna be close enough to see it clearly anyway....

Brightness isn't an issue. Hahahaha. I had to get the picture from an angle otherwise it was just a white fireball.

That's what mine looks like lit up from a rear coming car;)

I considered using one of those LED strips for the busa taglight. They are about $16. Work well and def enough light.

Thanks for the write-up and subsequent revisions.

My butt will be naked soon, too

Without the seat cowl showing, these pics might look an awful lot like a Gen2. I would imagine the nuts and bolt holes are almost identical on the Gen1 and gen2 so hopefully this tutorial will work for both. Speaking of revisions, I better add a title identifying this as Gen1. Thanks for the reminder, extrap.