"By following the hash marks. If they're not perfectly perpendicular to the front, that's out of alignment".
Yep...I get that.BUT...don't you think Kawasaki designed the bike to be 'in alignment' from the getgo?Look at brand new bike there,sitting...0 miles.Look at the hash marks.Are they or are they not aligned equally.The manual says,"kick tire forward'...then adjust the bolts 'the same'(hash marks)(my words)...look in the service manual,PG 2-31,drive chain slack adjustment.Any mention of a 'tool' or eyeballing a chain run?What's it say there about hash marks.Not trying to be argumentative about anything...but this idea that the factory didn't know how to stamp hash marks into their Flagship motorcycle just is...well...silly(to me);)
I'll say again(from my own trying)...using an 'eyeball' method for determining a straight chain is fallible.Getting a perfectly correct view at the rear sprocket and looking down to the countershaft gear just isn't reliable.It can appear to be straight when it's really not at the adjuster marks.
Honestly...and I've done it(tried adjusting equally by looking off center of the axle.Misalignment will occur)...the key here is to kick the wheel forward first...THEN position yourself looking through the axle.Adjust the bolts(hash marks) to were you want them to be.Recheck before tightening axle nut.Tighten axle nut gently but firmly.Recheck alignment marks.Final tightening...cotter pin.It will NOT be off doing it this way.EVER.You don't need a tool to confirm anything with this.
This whole mention of 'off alignment at the hash marks' is common.It's not the marks that are off...it's the way guys are looking at the axle at an angle when they're trying to align the marks.
Get the rear wheel on a stand.Off the ground.Use the screwdriver handle deal in the chain/sprocket method if you're more comfortable with that.You have to get the wheel firmly placed against the adjuster blocks.Remove screwdriver.The wheel will not move away from the blocks.Now adjust bolts.Check hash marks...snug axle nut up.Check hash marks.If good,slack is correct,tighten nut.Hold the adjuster bolt with an open end...snug up the locknut with an open end....You're done.
There's no marks on the Rookmiester's axle there.Personally,I wouldn't use any axle that didn't have a mark stamped into it(Or tapped with a chisel) at the top there.And on the swingarm.It looks to me like it has to be checked with a caliper or whatever to get the correct alignment.That just sounds like too much messing with it for me.BUT..it will work for sure.
* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/6/2015 @ 8:57 AM *