I've removed the lower rails of the tail subframe and I want to remount the rectifier bracket. I could make a bracket that would mount securely to the tail frame with one screw but I think I should go with a bracket that attaches to the frame with two screws like the OEM bracket does. A single screw bracket might let the rectifier vibrate under its own weight too much.

If I make a rectifier bracket that has two screws I could use the stock hole in the frame and drill a second hole in the tail frame a couple inches back. Is this advisable or would the frame be weakened too much? I also may need to drill a couple more holes in the tail frame to mount my nitrous bottle brackets. The only thing I can think of to avoid drilling holes would be to make brackets that clamp onto the tail frame.

Clamping is the least invasive, could use some simple rubberized P clamps to strap it on and have some isolation as well. Like the ones you fabbed for the vent line.
Since the subframe is a square tube, I wouldn't think a couple small holes would affect it much, so long as they dont pass through both sides of the tube and you space them away from the existing holes?

The idea is to go light, yes? Drilling says I need Hardware. Gluing says I can place anywhere. I don't care how heavy those bottles are, it's how the mount is glued and I do not alter the OE but the aftermarket.

Amazing Goop glue.

Since the subframe is a square tube, I wouldn't think a couple small holes would affect it much, so long as they dont pass through both sides of the tube and you space them away from the existing holes?

There might be a problem with spacing the holes since this is just a small bracket. How close together is too close? Maybe will I make the bracket hold both the rectifier and the nitrous bottle. That would save drilling two holes for the NOS and two more holes for the rectifier bracket.

Gluing says I can place anywhere. I don't care how heavy those bottles are, it's how the mount is glued and I do not alter the OE but the aftermarket.
Amazing Goop glue.

These are smaller bottles (20 oz), about 3" OD x 12" high. I'd say each will weigh 1.5-2 lbs with bracket.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/28/2015 @ 12:10 PM *

Amazing Goop

...but does it come off?

E6000

IDK, Hub, not being able to remove something is altering OE. ..unless you are willing to cut and grind it back to stock. Looks like a good option if you are willing to go permanent.

If I go the drilling rout, the main ? is spacing the holes. My judgement is telling me 2" is ok as long as we are just going through on side of the frame and not all the way through. Anyone second that?

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/28/2015 @ 12:03 PM *

When you go to their website, the crane cable swings out and you see a short flash program with a TV-Bowling ball-Brick-You name it; holding that kind of stuff onto each other. So your tiny tanks are not even stressing the glue. Wherever your straps lay, dab some glue behind it and zip-tie it in place and let it setup for days. Lay more on behind the strap to frame if you want more bonding effect, but the longer it dries the harder it sets up the stronger it is.

Take a needle nose pliers, pull on a piece and it stretches. Wind the harden glue around the needle nose tip and it follows off and away from the frame: no marks left. The vid says to try some so you work with it to see I run it exclusively and no hardware; no drilling; anyplace I want; where no drill can get into; or angle a good shot at destroying the OE? The bike then looks cobby, not clean and custom.

Don't go by me. I'm fit and function and could care less how it looks. If you were looking for a used bike, would you buy a drilled out, cut wire harness stocker or a clean, no drilling, no cutting, but a well executed show bike to own?

ok, Hub. You made me a believer. I've always gone to any length to avoid permanent mods but after 7 years of ownership, I feel the 14 and me are partners til death due us part. I'm starting to loosen up on the "return to stock" idea as you can tell by my choice of orange painted engine covers. However, why burn your bridges if you don't need to? I'm going to try this Goop. If I can peel it off like you say with a needle nose, that sounds like a perfect way to test the setup. If I feel it's necessary, I can drill holes later. Thanks.

Take a needle nose pliers, pull on a piece and it stretches. Wind the harden glue around the needle nose tip and it follows off and away from the frame: no marks left.

If I Amazing gooped a 3" angle iron to an anvil, could I hit it with hammer hard enough to break it free?

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/28/2015 @ 12:36 PM *

Pretty cool vid hub, and colorful. Hell that stuff is pretty impressive. Is it the kind of stuff that one day you're riding and it pops loose so it needs occasional maintenance or is it glue-it-and-forget-it until it's removed by force?

Rook, That bike is as colorful an accent as me mixing up mine with a few OE colors. Still, not a mother tea tamper once it's back together; with the plastic or without. This glue is more like the, 'go around the drilling problem with a dab.'

Vic, It is the most... glue-it-and-forget-it-until-it's-removed-by-force... kind of glue I've come across. The last timing light setup was on the gen1: checking hack moves. This time around I now glued a gopro to watch the timing change. The other vid will walk you to how many I can toggle, pull over and swap more map and flashed boxes. I'm going to attempt a pig[pc] over a pig[pot] over a flash is one combo.

To video the gen1 timing, I glued a length of bar stock that was square stock so you could slide&clamp the next arm off the bar stock. Also, I chose the head as a heat test and a testament to the glue. So, go for it and by force it still took that tip twisting to dismantle.

She[bar] stuck out past or up to the fork legs so I could mount the camera and the timing light off that siding in the air[2nd] bar. Two heavy guys floating up and down; filming that advancer at any speed I wanted. I am back to gluing that timing gun maybe off the top of that gopro cage? I then mount a tripod leg that is adjustable and attach that to the top of the gun. The other end snaps down into a gopro hing and that will steady the gun at two points, the camera will be more steady at that point: kill two birds. I thought that all out as I typed. And now that is one more 'go around the drilling it' taken care of. How fast was that, not a mark on that gun, the cage when done. First keep the gun-pro there for the adjustable advancer. I see where the stock setting is and then if I can improve it, I work the that leading edge to where they line up. Though stock is statically damn close, I wouldn't bother if I see it with the timing light and it was that spot on statically as is running.

I had the timing light plugged into the second cigarette lighter jack. So, a jack for the timing light, a jack for the camera. The timing light needs any old plug wire off the spark plug so I saw the light flicker, but without that plug wire in between the plug and spark stick, I'm back to pulling a stick out when I get around to it. First I aim the timing light and glue it for an overnight sitting, then take it off the mount when all is said and done. A lot easier than that stick I used to use as a doggie bag carrier. Had a roll of tape slid down the bar. Ordered lunch and took the rest home taped on that bar. I taped so much shit off that bar, if I wasn't bringing something home it was taking something someplace.

Here is what you can do with the vo/reg. There is so much swing you can arch off the wire harness and plant the vo/reg fore or aft. There is so much crunch to the harness and you bunch it in closer to the wire harness or zip-tie it along the harness. There is the wheel that is making wind under the wheelwell and you can let the air hit it that way, rather than out the side like they have it. Glue the back at a few corners and tape it up so it initially sets up.

Test:
Painters left a few paint spots on the sidewalk when they touched up the house trim. Enough goop over the paint spot; left an ice cream machine curl of a drop; waited a few days. Got the little guys out I work with, began to pinch that curl piece, started rolling the tip, paint came up; left just shadows of specs. And if I dabbed again, I'm going to try that and find out if it will collect them all, or get the spray washer out and quit dicking around. The goop is one more test counting up many things it can do it's like competing with Watta Dabulldueya 40.

Rook, I don't think 6000 and goop are the same. Goop is very workable but not like that unless I try that parchment trick. With the anvil hit, if say the metal was clean, the bar was set with a good covering and waited for a few weeks, I'd guess with one hit you'd bend the bar first.

Thanks man. I'll have to keep some of that around.

Yw Vic: it's got a short shelf life. The longer it stays around the thicker it becomes. It comes out like a putty ball and still works. Say a year and a half shelf and better if it stays cool.

At $6 a tube, I wouldn't worry too much if I had to buy a new tube every year.

http://www.zoro.com/i/G6213383/?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&gclid=Cj0KEQiA0aemBRC8p87zv_mc5qYBEiQAiEEMQY63JQ4KbwLfcEEoUsF5D3tZUz1glqd9ABDSf7_aiKcaAuEQ8P8HAQ

Good tip. Thanks Hub.

I looked at the bike last night and I think I can use this stuff. I'll probably try a rubberized clamp but if it proves to be too time consuming to bend a good square clamp, I'll goop it. I can use the rectifier screw to fasten on end of the RH nitrous bottle bracket and clamp or goop the other end. There is a screw on the LH side that holds a small bracket for a fuse. I can relocate the fuse and use that screw for the LH nitrous bottle, then clamp or goop the other end of that one, too.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/29/2015 @ 3:07 AM *

You have the screw already fastened on one side, that should keep it fastened to the frame, the other other side needs to be fastened so it doesn't vibraye loose. How big is the gap between the Frame and the other screw hole? There are some really good double sided tape manufacturers around. That's another option if you are worried about using the glue. I've never seen the goop stuff over hear, but will investigate.

How big is the gap between the Frame and the other screw hole?

"I can relocate the fuse and use that screw for the LH nitrous bottle, then clamp or goop the other end of that one, too"...TWO nitrous setups?Sheesh Rookster...you seriously NEED to get a video up here when these deals are installed..and yer rollin;)This I gotta see.You might want to invest in a KTRC for yer machine there...God knows it's gonna flyLOL!!!

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 1/29/2015 @ 9:12 AM *

It's just 2 twenty oz bottles. The typical DynoTune setup for the 14. You've seen that. Bought mine from Somefun last winter. Yup. He topped 200 with that and no spraybar. VBideo and pics, you can count on it. Gonna be one SICKass 14. Ohlins, NOS, CZ wheels and don't forget the orange covers!

SWEET!!!;)wonder what my H2 will do with some NOS?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 2/5/2015 @ 11:24 AM *

flip you on yur @$$!

LOL I've heard of people going with both turbo and nitrous. You could do it but it would be crazy.