Has anyone changed front crankshaft sprocket to at least -1 tooth? Would like to give up some top end speed which I never see to gain some faster lower end forward acceleration. Has anyone done this....and if so, how was the ride?

Did you get the low end performance you wanted?

Ninja

It's a simple swap. Its roughly the same as going up 2.5 teeth in the rear. Noticeable? Sure. Mild to Wild? No. My recommendation? Try it and see. You can grab an aftermarket front sprocket for $25 or so and give it a shot.

Some theorize that smaller sprocket up front is harder on the chain. I'm not sure I buy it particularly, but a lot of 650R people believe that bike is hard on chains from having a 15 tooth front sprocket. I tend to think more along the lines of it being lack of chain maintenance as is with most people that think 10k-15k miles chain life is normal.

-1 doesnt mess with the tc?

I swapped out my front and noticed immediate lugging, lurching and hesitation in the lower revs. It pulled harder after 3K, but the problem was so annoying from low RPM that I just took it back off.

Well today took the plungs.....-1 on the front.....WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Should have done this long time ago, unbelievable acceleration....so if I lose 10 mph at the 200 mph mark so. what.....normal driving is way less than what this bike can do...so taking advantage of lower end torque to get thru these mountains without lugging or having to downshift so often....

One of the very best upgrades so far on this bike...it should come this way out of the box!

Ninja

Good to hear! Been thinking of doing this to mine for a while, just didn't want tot deal with the potential low rpm stutter issue.

I did this on my 2012..no stutter from the KTRC.Some did say theirs stuttered.I may have had my KTRC turned off however.

I don't get it, why do some stutter and some don't?

I've never seen that question answered.

ninjawarrior I'm sure there are gains with this one...increasing the engine's mechanical advantage would defnitely make a difference that -1 up front is a pretty big difference.

You didn't by chance do any sort of before and after numbers did you? To see what the actual difference is?

I don't get it, why do some stutter and some don't?

* Last updated by: Hub on 8/29/2015 @ 9:12 AM *

So what about going +2 or 3 in the back and buying a new chain?

So what about going +2 or 3 in the back and buying a new chain?

Final drive ratio is final drive ratio. The only difference is you can't actually reproduce loosing a tooth off the front by adding teeth to the rear. 16/42= 2.625 17/44= 2.58 17/45= 2.64 Perhaps the stuttering only surfaces at that exact final drive ratio.

But will that reduce the chance of TC interferring?

And this will mess with the speedo correct?

"But will that reduce the chance of TC interferring?"...turn KTRC 'off'

"And this will mess with the speedo correct?"...yes...it's already 'off' by about 5%...this will take it even further out.Fuel mileage will also drop...but not terribly.

A very good combo is 1 down on front,1 up on rear.No chain link changing with this one.Ran this for a few years on my 07.Very fun.Ran this on my 2012...for a while...also very fun.

It's possible that these 'stuttering' reports were the KTRC activating.No one that I ever heard said anything about whether or not they had their Ktrc on.If it's turned off...it won't activate...no matter what the gearing.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/29/2015 @ 2:31 PM *

"And this will mess with the speedo correct?"...yes...it's already 'off' by about 5%...this will take it even further out.

Not on the 14R. Speedometer input is derived from the tone wheels, not the counter shaft nut as in the previous generation.

It's possible that these 'stuttering' reports were the KTRC activating.No one that I ever heard said anything about whether or not they had their Ktrc on.If it's turned off...it won't activate...no matter what the gearing.

I put a SupperSprox 45 tooth on. The ECU misbehaved <2500rpm in gears 1-3 regardless of KTRC mode. "Off" is off only up to a point... not truly deactivated.

-1 is so fantastic on the front, can't imagine what going +1 now on the back would be like.........just did this to my new 10r last week...-1 front, +2 on rear and man what an unbelievable positive move that was.

So, if I am bored one day maybe add +1 to the rear and add a seatbelt to the 14r!

Ninja

When I had my -1 front on, it was with the KTRC in the OFF position. I never ride with TC on.

I spoke with Cblast about it a bit, and we theorized that the ECU is unused to load in previously unused load ranges and automatically triggers the KTRC, regardless of setting.

I'm stock up front and -2 in the rear and can light up the rear tire at will. How the heck are you getting any traction to use the gearing change?

Can anyone relate to this if i do it on a Gen 1, 06, -1 on front,, Rear is OEM Teeth,
Flashed ECU, Full exhaust?

Never tried -1 on front but from what I recall, it can cause a slight whining noise from the chain turning a smaller radius. Some people claim the old Zephyr sprocket is quieter for a 16 T because it has a rubber damper. -1 on the front should be about the same as +2 on the back. I'd just go +4 on the back. That's what I did. It's like one gear lower. 60 mph in 5th gear is about 3400 rpm. +2 on the back won't make much dif IMHO.

...and -1 on the front will wear out faster.

All my bikes get re-geared as soon as i can, -1 front and +2 is what i run on my 2013 zx14r at stock length, also added a quick turn throttle. Throttle control is your friend, takes some getting used to. Great excelaration and also great for
track days as the gearing helps to not have to lug gears. On the road the tach will be normal riding around 4k-5k so bike stays in the power band sweet spot. Haven't noticed any real difference in gas mileage diffrences unless really riding hard on the track

havent had a problem with the stutter issue. some bikes do it some don't. Gauhl says he now has a flash fix for the stutter issue

* Last updated by: Blkcasper on 1/22/2018 @ 5:47 PM *