I finally found an affordable mod.. Tygon tube + cap I hope the 8mm will fit the rear master. I know the tubing is available for less, and I think I have some left over from the last bike, but it's handy to find a kit with hopefully the right tubing and a cap at one shop.

The master cylinder has a fairly large diameter fitting. Hope that fits. I also planned to do a similar mod using Tygon tubing and an aftermarket reservoir instead of a cap. Please let us know how/if the 8mm fits. If not, i know at least one member has used an aftermarket reservoir with the OEM tube cut to length. Tha would not be much of a weightloss mod though. Going for ultimate weightloss??? Good for you!

Well, the goal is to get over 200 in the mile without losing much weight myself. I figure I'll try to follow Shane's later build with a little more weight loss and a couple more little bolt-ons, like a quick shifter.. I'm not as small or experienced as Shane and Rachel, will need all the help I can get.
Plan to follow your weight loss tips and replace some of the metal brackets with carefully cut carbon fiber braces.
Probably the most important part of my plan is practice, but until my job gets straightened out and I can afford to replace major components and insurance I'm stuck window shopping and trying to find cheap ways to lose a little weight.
Plus it annoys me to see the large rear reservoir every time I take the seat off.

will need all the help I can get.

Plus it annoys me to see the large rear reservoir every time I take the seat off.

May be able to stretch it... but I'm thinking 8mm (5/16) isn't gonna work.
Find some 9 or 10mm and a/some cool cap(s)... Valve stem cap(s)?... and make your own kit($).

This is what I'll use. Motomummy only has 6mm and 8 mm

2475 Tygon Tubing in all sizes

They also have 2375 if you think that might be better but 24 sounds best to me.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/10/2016 @ 8:27 PM *

Great link... but shipping cost from them seems high, IMO.
I hadn't done much research (see any) on different grades of Tygon... but 2375 is what everyone, including myself, uses for brake hose.
Quick scan of specs looks like 2475 is a little more heat resistant, but less chemical resistant... I'd stick to the 2375... even it gets a bit "squishy" over time, IME.
What did you see about the 2475 that makes you think it would be better?

* Last updated by: DogoZX on 6/13/2016 @ 10:21 AM *

From the description on the site's Tygon tubing page

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/default.aspx?catid=864&parentcatid=856&clickid=topnavmenu

Tygon® 2375 Ultra Chemical Resistant Tubing
This tubing offers an unequaled combination of chemical resistance, clarity and flexibility. It is virtually unaffected by acids, bases, ketones, salts and alcohols, enabling it to meet the requirements of many applications, from filling battery acid to handling hazardous material.
Non-DEHP & plasticizer-free
Will not prematurely embrittle or crack
Exceptionally smooth, inner bore
Reduces the potential for contamination
Non-DEHP & plasticizer-freeInhibits particulate buildup
Durometer hardness (shore A): 75
Temperature range: -103°F to 130°F
Meets FDA standards, EU & NSF 51 compliant

Tygon® 2475 High-Purity Tubing
Ideal for handling sensitive fluids such as pharmaceutical or biological solutions. There is virtually no absorption of key fluid constituents into the tubing material or fluid absorption onto the tubing walls.
Plasticizer free
Virtually no extractables
Extremely low sorption to aqueous fluids
Unaffected by sanitizers & cleaners
Durometer hardness (shore A): 72
Temperature range: -94°F to 125°F
Biocompatibility to the ISO 10993 standard
Meets FDA & USP Class VI standards

I know brake fluid will break down ABS plastic and paint films so that is why I thought the most chemical resitant Tygon would be best even if it was more likely to allow contamination. If you used 2475 and it was not deteriorated by the brake fluid, it must be chem resistant enough while having the lowest contamination risk.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/13/2016 @ 1:54 PM *

Quick scan of specs looks like 2475 is a little more heat resistant, but less chemical resistant.

Looks like my quick scan skills need more work.lol

Anyhow, I see the logic... Particularly since most are not likely changing fluid as often as is done on a race (only) bike. Give it a shot. YOLO... just keep an eye on it for "sweat".

I just picked up some clear fuel line from the auto parts store to replace the 2375 that went all limp noodle on me my last time out (it was freeking hot out!)... if it works, sweet... If not, I'm out a few bucks... literally.

So Dogo, do you think the rear master cylinder nipple is 9-10 mm? If it looks like the kit won't fit I'll probably just trim the factory hose and use the fancy cap that comes with the kit, hope its large enough to fill the old hose at least..
I know its easy to put together the pieces, but still nice to have an all in one kit (that hopefully fits). Seems like a lot of people use bolts and the factory hoses, but if the point is wait loss its nice to have a chemically resistant light plastic cap.
On my last bike I have two kinds of tygon tubing. The clear hose I used to mount a smaller reservoir with a little aluminum mount on the front master. It has worked well and doesn't seem to have changed consistency or sweated at all. On the back I used a yellow tube because it was a larger diameter. The rear rez seems to have sweated a little and doesn't look as good as when new. However the 10 had underseat exhaust that sits a few inches away from the rez, the heat might be partially to blame.

Starting @ 12 o'clock and going counter clockwise:

Honda cap
Zx14 (from '06) brake line
8mm tygon (post limp noodle)
Zx14 resi

Cap is gonna be loose on factory line, or tygon is gonna be a stretch on the MC... Sometimes it works just to spit on the tip, though.;)

I was thinking about placing a step-down on the MC fitting so the tygon tubing would fit. It doesn't look like it was stretched much in the pic above though. The problem seems yo be the heat from the exhaust melting the line. Dogo has a Hindle that looks just like a Brocks A-head. I bet any shorty will have the same effect.

Where abouta was the reservoir mounted? exhaust hanger bolt?

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/13/2016 @ 7:55 PM *

Sry Rook... on an r6 this season... stock exhaust... heat from cat, riding 40 min sesions (20 off then back out), and 100° weather all contributed to the excessive heat... actually melted the soles off of my boots that day too.

* Last updated by: DogoZX on 6/13/2016 @ 10:49 PM *

Totally forgot this site crops large photos... nonetheless, that's kinda cool. Ha!

That's extreme conditions, alright.

Great pics Dogo, thanks.
Hmm, Looks like I'll shoot for the tygon and a lot of spit. The double thick stock lines were too heavy anyway. Honestly it is nice to be able to easily check the fluid level in the tygon tubing though.

Great pics Dogo, thanks

Yw

The Honda kit does fit, although its tight.
Rear reservoir hose clamps, bolt and hose weigh about 218 grams.

Thanks, Cool. What diameter is the tube and is it log enough that you might be able to attach it to an external reservoir located below the bottom muffler hanger bolt?

The Honda racing part is almost as long as the stock rear hose to the reservoir (I think I ordered two feet just to have a little extra. Should be plenty of length to reach the passenger peg and muffler mount.
Hose is approximately 8mm id, and 11mm outside.

* Last updated by: CoolBrzBlu on 7/12/2016 @ 11:33 PM *