I will start by asking everyone to have a little patience. I no nothing about the tuning of these bikes. I did a search trying to understand why the fly removal does'nt make much of a difference on the 08-09 14s. The only explanation I could find was that the ECU (mapping) was set from the factory so the flies would open quicker on the newer bikes. If I go with a full race exhaust and remap the bike. Will it change how fast the secondary flies open? Should I just go ahead and have them taken out or not?

The only explanation I could find was that the ECU (mapping) was set from the factory so the flies would open quicker on the newer bikes.

That's why. They are 100% open at 3.5 K rpm and you aren't riding hard if you are at that low of an rpm anyway. As you get more used to the bike, you will feel a spike in power at 3.5K and that was flies openning. They are partially open almost as soon as you roll at a low speed. Always full open in higher gears. Always open on fast idle before warm up. Ride the bike cold once (not good to make a habit out of this) and you will see the flies open doesn't improve a whole lot on our bike.

I do not recommend taking them out because it makes so little dif on a G2 and it is a fair amount of work with a bit more risk than most other procedures. All other G2 owners will tell you the same thing. You won't notice any change down low but you might feel a bit more power in the power band above 3.5 K where the flies are programmed to be open. I think this is due to a bit more spool up below 3K or maybe because all you have in there to obstruct air is the shaft after the flies are pulled off of it (the flies probably obstruct a little even when they are open). In any case, do your other mods first. The flies are no big deal on a G2.

You will not be able to find as close of a map for your full system if you pull flies. Most people leave them in. I am running a flies in map for my flies out 08 and it runs good and does not get hot at all. See - no big difference. The two maps i have tried both seemed to smooth out the little jump in power at 3.5K but not totally eliminate it.

If I go with a full race exhaust and remap the bike. Will it change how fast the secondary flies open?

The shaft the flies are conected to will always turn the same number of degrees at the programmed rpm. A map will not affect the ECU except for fuel/air ratios. The full system will not effect the rpm at which th flies open either but you will be able to accelerate quicker so you will be out of the 3.5K range faster. Again, if you are riding on the street, this isn't much of an issue. If you are doing serious drag racing at a strip, you would probably be revving past 3.5 for the launch anyway.

If you go to a full system, you may want to do the airbox mod pretty soon because you will get backfire on decel. The airbox mod can be done very simply once you locate the clean air hose under the airbox. It just pulls out and you can secure something in it with a hose clamp and stick it back in. There are more thorough procedures but not necessary just to get the bike running.

Here's more info on that

http://www.zx14ninjaforums.com/messages.cfm?threadid=D4561935-D56B-84E2-13B10310B67CBDB1

Daron

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/11/2009 @ 11:26 AM *

OK. I guess I should just leave them in. Great and thanks ROOK for the speedy reply. On to check out the airbox mod.

No prob. I think it is more commonly called "disabling the clean air system." I have to do that to my bike soon.

what is this airbox mod!?! Is this that mod to kill the popping!?! I freaking love that popping! My bike sounds awesome in tha washburn tunnel and under overpasses now! Love that decel pop!! Sup neighbor I would say avoid the flie removal on your bike since it wont make much difference and is a major PITA I dont care what they say! Full exhaust is a must!

* Last updated by: Sambeaux on 11/13/2009 @ 7:34 AM *

Air box mod is the PAIR sucking in fresh air. The control gate that is at the forward part of the valve cover, plumbs those out into the exhaust ports to refire the unspent gas.

This moves the air, which is a performance helper plus an emissions side show. Cool air comes in through the exhaust outlet. This air pressure of 14.7psi always wants to fill that pulse pressure out of the pipe.

So when you back off the throttle in the tunnel, the 14.7 rushes inside and like two thunder clouds of cold meeting hot, they pop!

If you clog the one hose with a glass marble, you will have the hardware still in place. But you will have to close the ram chamber hole where you pulled the one fresh air hose out to plug it up.

Others will tell you to plug up two hoses at the T-fitting branch. I think one closed hose will have the same effect and be a lot easier to get at. Either way, the effect is the same.

Thanks HUB. Thats some good shit. Hey Sam I've got to look you up one day when we are both off work and take a listen to that new exhaust. I'm leaning towards the Brocks CT duals. I know they cost more than they are worth but those sumbitches sound good.

^^That's a very nice zaust. Worth the extra clams. On sale now. Personally, I'd go with the CT single for ultimate weight loss. Just 1 hp less on top.

Thanks a lot HUB!!! Good Gawd man you know your shit!

No I don't, Sam. I've been snowing you guys since 1999. But thanks anyway.

hUB WROTE:

Air box mod is the PAIR sucking in fresh air.

Is PAIR an acronym? What does it mean?

Pulsed Air Intake Reed = PAIR

Thanks. ;)