Folks, attached is a picture of my rear sprocket 2006 zx-14 with 28Kkm on it. chain tends to loose a bit. Should I go for the fence and change sprockets and chain ?

thanks
André

You need to go for the whole tamale and replace both sprockets and chain. Kinda looks like your cahin is dry, eating up everything!!!

1+ 'go for the whole tamale' = She's done.

nah man ur good, just clean,lube and adjust ride then buy your parts

Count the 3rd tooth down from the right. See how that has a hook to it? Not a uniformed U = Sweeper, you run that puppy then.

Replace all three..and stop letting that chain get so damn dry will ya?LOL!!!

Goood eye = hub I sorta caught that two. Agi that sprockets egged out man. You should run for the border,jump the fence and pull the trigga on that whole tamale homeboy. Then join the 14 NATION.

Count the 3rd tooth down from the right. See how that has a hook to it? Not a uniformed U = Sweeper, you run that puppy then.

I thought the sprocket looked ok too but maybe a little uneven wear. It doesn't look terrible but why let it get that bad? If the rear is looking worn, the front will look a lot worse. You could measure the chain stretch for kicks but I'll bet that is about at the limit as well. Change all three. They will wear in together and last a lot longer than if you change some and not all.

Pull on the chain about the mid point on the back sproket where it is in contact
with the sproket, I'll bet it has play in it, if so replace all three ...

If the rear sprocket is worn...will that way of checking the chain work okay?Also...does the chain slack need to be at spec to get a correct measurement of chain 'wear'...and will it be valid with a worn sprocket on there?

I guess what I'm asking is...with a worn sprocket(including the front one)is it possible to get a non-valid measurement of chain play when checking it?(I don't mean 'slack' adjustment).Could the chain be actually fine...?Or would tightening the chain to spec(slack)on a worn set of sprockets be a valid check.

From what I understand about the chain measurement(s)...it has to be along the run and a certain number of links...and their overall length measurement...to actually determine an unserviceable chain. Regardless of how far out a guy can pull the rear of the run along the sprocket.IDK how you'd measure and compare that(to anything) anyway.It would seem to me that pulling the chain away from the sprocket would be more an indication of slack adjustment?I'm probably very wrong?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/20/2014 @ 10:35 AM *

I guess what I'm asking is...with a worn sprocket(including the front one)is it possible to get a non-valid measurement of chain play when checking it?

..the sprockets have nothing to do with the measurement so they could be worn out or new. All that matters is that they hold both ends of the chain while you measure.

weights hung on bottom, ruler laying on the top run.

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/20/2014 @ 6:29 PM *

Scrap pile.

You asked what I think of your sprocket.

Based on your snap your rear sprocket is entering it's last 25% of life. Based on that your counter sprocket is rightly fooked in it's hookage. The chain is probably the best of the three final drive members but is scrap nonetheless.

High you to SuperSprox for a delightful sprocket/chain combo.

What's that? You don't own a chain rivet tool? Borrow or buy one.

thanks for all the info guys. I guess you gave me the last push I needed to change all three. I will look into this this weekend...there is 5 inches of snow on the ground here...I'll have time I guess.

dont have a chain tool, was thinking of using a master link with the clip thing...

JT sprockets, DID xring

André

Apparently..the clip type master CAN be used...I wouldn't...but I've read IF you apply some silicone sealer to the 'open end'...having the clip opening facing to the rear of the link(chain moving forward on top run)it'll be fine.With this much force from the 14 motor...I wouldn't feel comfortable with that link in there...but maybe someone will chime in and talk on this who knows for sure.The rivet/breaker tool isn't that expensive....now that I think on this...I can't remember the 'endless' chains I've bought having that type of link packaged with the chain.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/20/2014 @ 7:55 PM *

Two things can happen from using the banana master:

1) the banana splits and the chain envelopes the rear wheel in a loving embrace essentially locking it. You lose control after high siding and die. You go to heaven.

2) the banana splits and your counter sprocket shoves ever increasing amounts of chain through your engine case summarily ruining your Ninjee. Whether you die on the spot or 50 years from that point, you're going to hell.

Use a riveted master installed properly and live forever.

KTRC/ABS won't correct this?...I want my money back.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/21/2014 @ 10:23 AM *

I was also advised to NOT use a clip master link. Those were for dirt bikes but not a safe choice for a road bike.

I'd invest in a chain tool.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=4A368DF7-B2F6-BCEF-33AC15ECB00D9E10

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/21/2014 @ 2:22 PM *