My ECU appears as though it may have failed. My bike gives a constant FI Code 53 (Stick Coil #3 not sending required number of spark pulses to ECU) even when the bike is not running, which is odd to me.

I have the Power Commander Ignition Module and wonder if others have had any issues with it? I removed it and the PCIIIusb too, but still get the Code 53 when I turn the key on.

Question: Why do I always get the FI Code 53 when I turn the key to on and do not start the bike? Seems like the ECU would need to have the bike running in order to determine that the spark pulses are missing?

What I checked:
-I have metered out the wiring harness and all the continuity checks pass.
-I can swap stick coils #2 and #3 around and the FI Code remains #53.
-Disconnecting the stick coil harness connector on the top of the engine left side (connector for all 4 coils) still results in FI Code 53. Shouldn't I also see codes 51, 52 and 54 too?

Suspect that what ever the Power Commander IM does to the ECU input signal for moving timing around has biffed it?

Starting the bike results in Cylinder #3 not firing at all. Guess I'll have to pay the $$ for a new ECU? Any suggestions appreciated.

What is the compression in that cylinder? If #3 is still not firing, follow that wire to the ECU, back-probe that wire out against the other 3 stick coil codes coming out of the ECU and if all 4 wire outputs are the same, then check that wire out of the ECU and that has to be clean all the way to the stick.

Cover your 3 ass is and that 4th variable is compression:

1. Is my wire out of the connector(s)?
2. Is my connector not connected?
3. Do I have a ground from that wire is two grounds? One a short, the other wire is the ground wire. So hot wire is the code.
4. Compression is who knows why that cylinder signed off?

You have spark to #3 if you ground the plug to the engine and watch the spark jump? It says it will shut the injector down. It said nothing about the spark. So, I am more looking for a spark, compression, then I reinstall the plug, light off the bike; feel #3 cylinder's header pipe and if it is cold?

It says the ECU is working correctly. So, do you need a new ECU if it reads what it says it will do in the manual? I would look someplace else or see if dealer level has a bulletin or they know that a stick coil does this to do that and that variable was not the ECU is I have no clue?

I'm just saying that if you have compression and a cold pipe = ECU is not it, is my guess. And you know how hard it is to diagnose over the net.

* Last updated by: Hub on 4/29/2009 @ 8:47 AM *

Hub, thanks for the assist. [Comments inline below]:

[Done. All continuity tests pass on wiring harness.] What is the compression in that cylinder? If #3 is still not firing, follow that wire to the ECU, back-probe that wire out against the other 3 stick coil codes coming out of the ECU and if all 4 wire outputs are the same, then check that wire out of the ECU and that has to be clean all the way to the stick.

Cover your 3 ass is and that 4th variable is compression:

1. Is my wire out of the connector(s)? [No. Wire & mechanical connection for ECU pin #45 checks good.]
2. Is my connector not connected? [No. Connector seats properly.]
3. Do I have a ground from that wire is two grounds? One a short, the other wire is the ground wire. So hot wire is the code. [No. Tested for a short. Not there.]
4. Compression is who knows why that cylinder signed off? [Don't have that tool, but I get FI Code 53 even when the bike has not been started. Just turning the key to on position throws this code.]

You have spark to #3 if you ground the plug to the engine and watch the spark jump? It says it will shut the injector down. It said nothing about the spark. So, I am more looking for a spark, compression, then I reinstall the plug, light off the bike; feel #3 cylinder's header pipe and if it is cold? [Cylinder #3 never fires the spark plug.]

It says the ECU is working correctly. So, do you need a new ECU if it reads what it says it will do in the manual? I would look someplace else or see if dealer level has a bulletin or they know that a stick coil does this to do that and that variable was not the ECU is I have no clue?

I'm just saying that if you have compression and a cold pipe = ECU is not it, is my guess. And you know how hard it is to diagnose over the net

Buy one new spark plug. Or, swap a plug that can jump a spark. See if that plug signs off = Spark plug is fouled; grounding and not jumping the side to center electrode. Kind of finds a ground back up the wire and amps it a little to mother ECU and throws a code?