I have had plans on doing a bit of mods over the winter and was planning on buying an abba stand. Today I went and winterized the bike and installed battery tender connectors to the battery. I took off a bunch of the fairing and then looked for a bit staring at the bike.... damnit. My faring covers cover the damn pivot holes that the abba stand uses. They are a pain to take off having to take off both rider and passenger peg brackets.

I like them and would like to keep them but don't want to have to take them off every time I want to lift the bike. Sooo anyone think it be feasible to cut a hole in them. Any ideas how to make the hole look nice?

pics of the bike can be found here. http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=A65EE696-9387-4676-A7128A1E9EAFD02E

* Last updated by: Eternal on 11/15/2014 @ 12:22 AM *

I can't see why a hole would hurt. Maybe stick a paint marking pen centered in the swingarm hole so it puts a spot inside the cover for your drill point. Place the piece on a soft, non abrasive surface and slowly (plastic will melt when you drill) drill a hole as close to center as possible. File it out with a rat tail or rounded mill file and finish it with sand paper. There is chrome paint Made by Duplicolor in an aerosol can. You can get it at many of the auto supply chains. I've been told it looks just like the cap.

http://www.carid.com/dupli-color/dupli-color-specialty-product-4014581.html

Sounds like you could make it into quite a project. A simple hole would be enough work but pretty cut and dry as far as the method goes.

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/15/2014 @ 7:41 AM *

Although not intended for long term storage, check out the Rear Swing Arm Removal Kit. It's $25, plus shipping probably. I ordered mine along with the original purchase, just in case I'd need it.

At BlueStreakRacing.com you can order the Swing Arm Removal Kit for $25.00 with the ABBA stand package.

The instructions do say they prefer if you're not removing the swing arm to use the Pivot area. However, I don't know why this is. It doesn't seem to me unless it's something like fatigue on the screw, or the frame boss it should be an issue.

Contact Blue Streak Racing or ABBA directly to see if they can help resolve this issue for you. If you find out it's ok to store the bike long term with the Swingarm Kit, please let us know. Frankly, I can't see why it's an issue but it's just what the instructions say.

* Last updated by: VicThing on 11/15/2014 @ 8:16 AM *

How bout a REAR stand then?And a front stand?(steering stem pivot hole type).You wouldn't be able to check stem bearings with the front stand...but you could do everything else...remove wheel,forks...all that.

Well ordered the abba stand and going to wait to get it to see the big picture. Thanks for the tips Rook think I am going to go with the hole and some PVC pipe. If it doesn't work guess I saw some frame covers with holes in them already. Don't want to spend more money though cause my purchase list is already quite long.

Well Grn14 I just want something that's easy for one person to do. Bike is kept in a garage across town and its a pain trying to get help. From what I have seen rear wheel and front wheels stands are kind of awkward and sketchy by yourself.

"Well Grn14 I just want something that's easy for one person to do"...yup...I hear ya.

I've been using a Pitbull front steering stem pin stand now for...at least a year...more I'd say.It works really good...for getting the front off the ground...and removing the front wheel...it will not however allow the stem bearings to be checked....that's the downside.In the rear...I use a Pitbull forward facing handle stand.It works great...although I did have to cut the handle end off and install a cheater bar to make the lift...it's very easy once you do it.They're both very safe and work fine.

The Hiendle I got because I wanted to be able to not only remove frontend parts...wheel and forks and such but work on the rear components as well in one sitting.It works fine...very stable...no probs.I will not be using it to clean the chain or lube or anything related though...the Pitbull's much quicker to just lift the rear of the bike with...with no drama.I'm so used to doing it...it's like second nature.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/15/2014 @ 2:25 PM *

Eternal, I also have the frame hole covers on my bike, the covers fit snug but with a little wiggling they come right out, I am assuming your covers are rubber like mine since that is the only type I have seen. Once you see how the ABBA adapters fit in the swing arm pivot you'll see that you would have to drill a sizable hole for them to fit. As is the case a lot of times there is a trade-off. Let me correct myself, I thought you were talking about the rubber hole covers, you must have the large chromed covers which would be more difficult, follow Rook's advice.

If you're lifting the bike by yourself you will be happy you have the ABBA. When you get the ABBA set up for your bike you'll see it is SUPER easy and stable to take on and off the stand by yourself.

* Last updated by: Rktsled on 11/15/2014 @ 4:28 PM *

I've been using a Pitbull front steering stem pin stand now for...at least a year...more I'd say.It works really good...for getting the front off the ground...and removing the front wheel...it will not however allow the stem bearings to be checked....that's the downside

A swing arm pivot stand is the best thing to support the back when you check steering play. I just that and lift the front with a fork lift stand, then strap under the air box (yeah, you should remove the fuel tank) and over a ceiling joist. Then remove the front stand. I have a tutorial on that. A spool stand puts a lot more leverage against the rafter. Not real safe anywhere but right next to the wall.

I thought you were talking about the rubber hole covers, you must have the large chromed covers which would be more difficult,

If you make you own, I'd suggest the firm sculpy for a geometric shape. SOfter sculpy clay gets too soft when you work it with your hands. The firm stuff is great for making uniform surfaces and sharp edges once it warms up in your hands.

http://www.sculpey.com/product/super-sculpey-firm/

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/15/2014 @ 5:36 PM *

So thinking I am going to go most of the way you said Rook. Use a piece of pvc pipe. Was thinking maybe a bushing type. Drill hole and place it in.. maybe glue it. There is a shop here that does spray chrome plating and I'll get him to touch them up. Hopefully works going to have to wait going back to work so ill start it next days off.

* Last updated by: Eternal on 11/16/2014 @ 1:14 PM *

"I just that and lift the front with a fork lift stand, then strap under the air box (yeah, you should remove the fuel tank) and over a ceiling joist. Then remove the front stand." ...sheesh Rook..you do this everytime you need to remove the front wheel?Or check stem bearings?I don't quite follow why you would do all this...but I guess it works for ya.Kawasaki suggests using 'the jack'(mentioned in the service manual)....just something to lightly lift the wheel off the ground(placed under the frame there)....nothing about strapping the bike to a joist....it won't fall with that jack under there.The pivots are holding it securely.My Tech/mechanic friend simply raised the front by using a floor jack under the exhaust...while the bike was secured in a bike stand(lift).Whatever ya call those things;)Hydraulic.Maybe it was Pnuematic...One like the shop guys use at the dealers.I never really looked real close at the attachment points he was using to hold the bike in that rack...but he wasn't raising the whole weight of the bike by just jacking up the front under there.Only the frontend weight...which isn't much compared to the rest of the bike.He may have had a pneumatic pivot deal attached to the pivot shaft holes????

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/16/2014 @ 4:18 PM *

...sheesh Rook..you do this everytime you need to remove the front wheel?