Boys just a little Heads up for those of you planning on upgrading your Brake Lines on the New 14R ABS models.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!IT'S NOT A TWENTY MINUTE JOB !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have never so badly under estimated what was thought to be very a simple task. Could have cried. (Bet I could pull the motor faster). The bike basically has to be stripped. Had a little break down when even the horn had to be removed. Battery the works,,,, Big Job. If your going to tackle this one, Allow yourself lots of time. If your taking your bike to the dealer to get this done get ready to pay dearly,,,, As for mods Think this one out. Rant over. Just wanted you guys to know so the shock won't as bad for you. Hope this helps in some way Cheers.

PS, They Are Very Very Nice Though lol

Had mine put on by the dealer before I took delivery....he did mention that I made out dearly on the 1 hr quoted labor for the brake lines. Luckily the dealership stands behind their quotes and didn't try to charge me more.

Any pics of the after?

If one were to need longer lines for convertibars, would this also be an extensive job?

Crap!
Just saw this thread AFTER I ordered a set of front and rear Hel SS transperant red with black fittings brake lines for my ZX-14R.

"It's not a 20 minute job"
Romans, can i ask how long did it actually take you?

Now I'm really worried!!!

* Last updated by: yannih on 3/28/2015 @ 3:49 AM *

Yannih I was mad when I posted that lol. How long did it take ? Well longer than it should have. Best way to explain this is for me to tell you what you have to do. Knowing this will greatly speed up the process.

1. Remove Battery

2. Remove Gas Tank

3. Remove Front Fender

4. Remove Horn

Now that is only what I can remember.

If you were thinking 45 minutes,,, So Sorry. That is most likely not going to happen. My luck too the Gas Tank Was Full

Yannih I will say this just incase.

Tip.
When you remove the tank first remove those hooks for the helmet holder. If you have to bear hug a full tank of fuel those hooks will scratch the paint if your not carefull.

Pics are a 1000 words. I will Look.

I siphon mine just about every time I remove it. It'll take about 30 minutes to get it really low. Those rubber squeeze ball hoses at the auto supply work pretty good but they like to curl up and harden when exposed to gasoline. you'll have to pull it out to straighten it a few times. That will let you get it down to the bottom and drain almost all the fuel out. Place a rag or some smooth object between the siphon hose and the edge of the splash guard. That edge is sharp and it will shave the hose easily. Who needs anxiety about plastic flakes floating in the tank?

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/28/2015 @ 12:40 PM *

Yannih here is what I have for Pictures.

* Last updated by: Romans on 3/28/2015 @ 12:41 PM *

I siphon mine just about every time I remove it. It'll take about 30 minutes to get it really low.

Smart, I always say I'm going to, but my lack of patience gets me into trouble.

Hi Romans,
Thank you for the amazing detail.
This will make all the difference with doing the job.
Wish me luck.
And guess what?
My tank is currently 100% full!

Hi Romans,Thank you for the amazing detail.This will make all the difference with doing the job. Wish me luck.

And guess what? My tank is currently 100% full!

You're more than welcome. Hope I saved you some time.

Tank Full, Ugh! Isn't that always the case. sometimes can't catch a break.

Tank being full at the wrong time sure seems to be a common problem. I waited 23 days for a part (tank hinge) to get to me from 6 hours away. Of course the day it came and I wanted to put it on I had just filled my tank. Sure is a heavy bastard when full.

Let us know how your install goes. I was thinking of getting them a set of translucent orange ones as soon as CORE came out with a set for the ABS version. Not sure I want to go through the hassle now.

Quick question.
My new 14R is just coming up to 30,000kms and I know the valves haven't been checked. Service manual says check at 24,000kms.
So if I get a major service done including valves, the bike should be in enough prices to do the braided lines as well without too much issue?
Correct?
I know this is off topic but valves checked at 30,000kms or leave it till later on?

So if I get a major service done including valves, the bike should be in enough prices to do the braided lines as well

They don't need to remove the fuel tank to do the valve lash check. Everything with the valve check is under the air box. If the brake lines go there, it might be a good opportunity to do a valve check. ...but I think the brake lines will be mostly unrelated.

I checked my Gen1 valves at 38,500 km which was overdue. It was time to adjust. Most of the exhausts were tight but none seemed dangerously tight (then again, how do I know?...1/100 inch might be dangerous). 20,000 miles later, the valves were all exactly where i set them. So, I'm saying you probably need an adjustment to be in spec but they probably aren't going to get any worse than they are now. I guess I'd do it now while the bike is out. ONLY if the shop lets you come in to view the inspection and the adjustment if that is needed. It would be too easy to say the procedures were done without ever removing the head cover. If necessary, I'd pay extra to view if I had a shop do the work. There is no reason they should not oblige you on this especially if you flip them a few extra bucks for taking up a few hours of shop space.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/29/2015 @ 6:27 AM *

I'd also make sure they change the head cover gasket and the ringos below the the valve cover bolts. The Gen1 had leak problems with those parts even before the cover was ever removed.

Rick, did you leave the metal hoses in place and replace only the rubber hoses or did you replace the whole system with braided hoses.
I want to put some on my bike, but didn't quit see the point in replacing the metal hoses, unless it's recomended. I want braids hoses more for the looks than the functionality.

Rick, did you leave the metal hoses in place and replace only the rubber hoses or did you replace the whole system with braided hoses.

Replaced All. Below Lists what is included in the Spiegler Performance Brake Line Kit. Also Not listed was the Clutch Cable. Very Nice.

Product Details
Stainless steel braided brake line kit for ABS version.

This kit includes all stainless steel braided brake lines to replace all 8 rubber brake lines and several steel lines. Our Spiegler brake lines are running in one piece from the ABS unit to e.g. the front master cylinder, no more manifolds and multiple connections. We also cleaned up the stock brake line clutter with all their manifolds and several more brake lines. You will have a much better looking and functioning brake line system than before.

Our Spiegler brake line kit will save you 1.6 lbs over the stock brake line kit!

Mounting instructions are included

Check out the images in the Gallery!

Product Specifications
Quantity: In Stock
Manufacturer: Kawasaki
Model: ZX-14R
Year: 2012 - 2015
Remarks: 5 line kit for ABS model
Position: Front/Rear
Number of Lines: 5
Brand: Spiegler

Click Here

Thanks for the info, I will follow it up. Did it make it neater and look better?

2 Hour job.... I have the Spiegler lines also. Very nice product and I like that I was able to order black lines & gold fittings!

I like that I was able to order black lines & gold fittings!

Very Nice indeed. Seno lets see some pics of that New Ride. Black Lines with Gold banjos will Look sharp for sure. Congrats on the New Bike

G'day Romans,
Just got my front and rear braided lines installed.
Just had a major service done and while the bike was in pieces the boys did the extra work.
Not too bad on the dollars side in the end.
Next question please.
I take it installing clutch braided lines is fairly straight forward (no different to Gen 1's)?

* Last updated by: yannih on 4/22/2015 @ 5:38 AM *

I take it installing clutch braided lines is fairly straight forward (no different to Gen 1's)?

Yes, very straight forward. Any pics ?

Going to zombify this thread to ask (again sorry) if you just need to replace specific lines with longer ones needed for taller bars, can that be done without the difficulty described above?

After talking to Rook I'm not sure that Spiegler is the best option..
Fren Tubo has carbon wrapped lines with aluminum fittings. This seems to be the lightest possible option for brake lines.
One of the main questions is how long does unprotected carbon/kevlar last in the sun?
Carbon and Kevlar disintegrate under exposure to UV light, especially in S TX with all of our heat and sun I'd think this would be an issue over time.
I oredered a set of spiegler ss lines to simplify all the hoses/manifolds on the bike, and since I chose custom colors I'm sure I can't return them.
Spiegler saves 1.6# off stock, I wonder how much lighter the Carbon lines would be?

For Gen1

OEM rear brake line, retainer brackets, bano bolts and gaskets: 11.65 oz
Goodridge kevlar rear brake line, aluminum banjo bolts, gaskets, P-clip and aluminum screw: ~2.5 oz

OEM front brake lines, brake line block retainer and bolts, banjo bolts and gaskets: 17.90 oz
Goodridge kevlar 2 line front brake lines, gaskets and banjo bolts, plastic retainer and bolt: 4.8 oz

OEM clutch line, rubber mount, banjos and gaskets are 9.7 oz
Don't have a kevlar line replacing that but the Spiegler SS line with banjos and gaskets is 3.75 oz + one zip tie. I think a kevlar would be about 2.5 ....your talking a few ounces dif comparing all kevlar to SS and I am sure CF can't be much dif and if it is....maybe an ounce lighter. I change brake lines like I change my underwear. They get old and dirty and dingy if you buy bright colors...you decide you want a different color or the same color with diffrerent banjos......you'll change them. Put the Spieglers on there, I say.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/29/2017 @ 11:01 AM *