I guess this would be about the least of our worries but just thought I'd post in case anyone has new info to ad.

I definitely have some seepage from bleeds. No damage to surrounding paint or plastic but as you see the paint around the front master cylinder bleed has melted away some. I noticed the clutch master cylinder has the same problem and there was even a bit of moisture under the bleed valve cap retainer.

I torque my bleeds a bit less than spec to avoid thread damage. The torque value is very low for bleed valves anyway. Just about hand tight is enough.

I have bleed my fluids often. All the turning open and closed may have worn the threads down and now they do not seal. I have a MityVac vacuum bleeder now so that should avoid this problem in the future. I have sand paper and semigloss black rattle can paint. Also have a shwingin' set o' gold finish ProBolt Ti steel bleeds that need to go on. I think I will be able to rectify this right away without so much as going to a hardware store.

Are bleed valves normally a replacement part? i mean is it normal for then to ware out?

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/23/2013 @ 2:30 PM *

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Bleed bolts do not wear out. However, if you open and close, this could stretch the threads in the aluminum and stretch the bleed nipple threads having a hole down the middle, yes, a leak that has been barked down too many times it's possible they cannot be replaced, because you took the other taper out at the master. So new barked down onto a half damaged other side, you see that interference egging so no seal is possible?

I do not need nor use mightytitty tools. I open the bleeder once and close it. The bleeding is at the lever/pedal. Keep pumping unit the final squeeze and hold/tighten bleeder. If you are open and close every move... Bad Move. If your nipples keep weeping and this is eating the finish, that's one thing. If you didn't wipe clean, the residual is now showing you your last bleed.

So yes it leaks or weeps now or we are looking at a long ago chemical reaction bleeding at that area a lot. Which is it?

* Last updated by: Hub on 9/23/2013 @ 5:46 PM *

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If you are open and close every move... Bad Move.

that is the way i have always heard it was to be done. If you just keep pumping with the valve open, there will be no pressure after fluid is expelled. I wouldn't think any more fluid would come out after the first pump.

No matter. I will be using the MighttyVac from here on in.

Could be BOTH! I bled the mastercyilinders not long ago and i did NOT wash down with water after as was my usual practice.

I rather doubt the threads are damaged as many times as I opened and closed those things. It does not take much torque to just close the valve to do a bleed pump. ...and as a matter of course, I always under-toqued the bleeds because they have such delicate threads. I could try torquing them to spec.

I will try the new bleeds I have and keep an eye on them. If they still weep....I guess I need a whole new MC. Think I'll get a Brembo!!! (I almost sorta hope they don't stop weeping).

Thanks Hub.

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The front brake MC bleed is dry. HAs been for weeks....before that, I noticed a bit of dampness and then the paint scaleoff like picture above.

Clutch MC bleed was damp. I washed it down with water and dried. Still my clutch bleed gently weeps. dampness still there around th erubber ring and it has a sour taste like brake fluid so I am inclined to think we def have some seepage weepage here.

PLAN: water douse test --failed.

next replace bleed valve and tighten to spec, repeat dousing with water and inspect.

If it still weeps after proper torque, how about teflon tape to seal threads? I know this sounds bad but have to ask anyway.

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Teflon Tape...you know Rook...that was exactly my 'answer' to this deal....I just didn't post cause I didn't feel I needed to get flamed;)But yeah...a small cut piece of that tape...enough to go around that nipple thread a couple of times...yet cut so it won't get down far enough to be in the brake fluid stream once tightened.It will work...I've done it.No problem.You will most likely need to replace it however at every brake bleed session...to keep things nice and dry between.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 9/25/2013 @ 1:19 PM *

OK Teflon thread tape will be the last expedient. I have to put in the new Gold Ti bleeds I bought some day so might as well be now.

You didn't happen to do a soak test with the teflon tape in brake fluid did ya? If that thin stuff holds up as good as the plastic bottles brake fluid comes in, no problem! I think it is still wise to wrap only the top few threads to keep any debris from entering the system.

If all else fails, I could drill and tap for the next bigger sized bleed valve....or just get a whole new brembo which sounds best to me. BREMBO CLUTCH MC ZX-14 $360

MC FAILURE/REPLACEMENT THREAD

Here on in is MightyVac ONLY on the bleedjobs!

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/25/2013 @ 2:34 PM *

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You could find the same thread pitch of a bolt, run tef over the threads and you are done. To bleed the brakes up top, break the banjo bolt and squeeze out the air. No nipple needed.

You could bring water up to the top of the surface, you had a hose long enough to hit a water table. These are just simple water pumps: you just keep pumping away. Last pump, you grab that nipple closed before you release the lever. It was opened once and closed once.

1. To prime a master: Place master in a vice/handlebar. Hold finger over the banjo hole. Just pump away with fluid in the res, finger off the hole. Eventually the fluid begins to drip out. Hold finger over hole and keep pumping. Hey, your finger was blown off the hole = She is primed.

2. Install brake hose onto master with banjo/etc. Take two fingers and cover the banjo fitting. Pump the lever, just keep pumping and topping off what leaves the res going down into the hose. Hey, what? Day Ja Voo all over again here comes the fluid past the hangnail. Take the second banjo bolt and install that with said parts and bark it down clearing things, no kink and all that.

3. Open the nipple at the caliper. Start pumping away like hey, haven't we been here before? Look at that fluid appear out the tube you put on. That, and how you hardly have the threads turned so the fluid only leaves the hole, not the outside threads that can make air move back in you make the final close on that second move is you closed out all the bubbles = No titty tool, no might you vac that tool money for tires/gas/oil.

4. ASS Your FINGERS do the walking. I hear tittyvac, you guys are going to get my finger(s) pointed at CHOOSE!

Arrr, Arrr, Tim the Toolman says....

I got your tool hanging!

* Last updated by: Hub on 9/25/2013 @ 4:35 PM *

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You could find the same thread pitch of a bolt, run tef over the threads and you are done.

Already got the fancy Ti bleeds so they go in if only for looks. Sounds like you are sorta endorsing the teflon tape idea.

To bleed the brakes up top, break the banjo bolt and squeeze out the air. No nipple needed.

Well I'll be damned! Why the f&*^k does nobody tell me this sh!t 'til it is too late?

You could bring water up to the top of the surface, you had a hose long enough to hit a water table. These are just simple water pumps: you just keep pumping away. Last pump, you grab that nipple closed before you release the lever. It was opened once and closed once...... you hardly have the threads turned so the fluid only leaves the hole, not the outside threads that can make air move back in you make the final close on that second move is you closed out all the bubbles

I'd have to try that. Sounds like the bleed must be loosened just enough so that air does not get sucked back in when you release the lever with the valve left open.

4. ASS Your FINGERS do the walking. I hear tittyvac, you guys are going to get my finger(s) pointed at CHOOSE!

Already own the breast pump. Payed $80. Must use to bleed brakes.

Thank you for all the tips.

I will follow through on this right away and link this thread to my Brake fluid bleed thread.

SO, how do I go about changing the bleed valve? I want to get that nice Ti goldy I have on there. Can I simply unscrew the OEM bleed all the way and then screw in the new one (doing a bleed to eliminate the air that gets in afterward)? ...or do I need to bleed all fluid from the master before removing the bleed valve completely to replace it?

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/25/2013 @ 5:57 PM *

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Rook I took my sons medicine syringe and some pvc tubing small enough to just get over the nipple and used that to push fluid up to the top of system pushing out any air bubbles and such, then I pumped the lever back and forth a bit to watch the fluid move through the system and make sure no air bubbles were still present, closed off the nipple and pumped 3 times, cracked the nip and nothin but fluid no air, close nip pump up pressure and your ready to go, mityvac-$80, medicine syringe-$3. just my 2 cents. How's that sound Hub? sounds stupid but it works.

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The nice goldy Ti is going on the top nipple?Just the one?

As far as the teflon tape deal...the fluid will melt that shit(which will contaminate your fluid over time).That's why you cut the tape for the width of the threaded portion of the nipple...a bit less that the length of the threaded portion so you can get a few winds on there.Then carefully put it on that nipple thread...but not all the way down to the opening part where it's contacting the fluid...gotta kinda 'imagine' where the end would be inside that fitting.

Not sure here...but as long as you don't squeeze the lever in any way...you can pull that nipple out(the bottom slave one)...and install the new one with a very minimal amount of fluid coming out.You have to be quick though...gravity's working against you.When you open that bottom one...crack it open first with a bleed line on there...let it bleed out a bit...it may actually stop for ya...then you remove all the way.IDK...I've never done it before...but that fluid isn't pressurized in there...it's only 'taking up space'.With the top one closed...it should stop flowing at the slave once it drops a bit and starts creating a vacuum in the line.It may not even do that.Then you'd just need to add some more to your res when done.Long as you don't open that top one...you should be fine.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 9/25/2013 @ 9:19 PM *

The nice goldy Ti is going on the top nipple?Just the one?

I think I have a set of three. One for front brake MC and one for each front caliper. I think I have one for the rear caliper as well. IDK. There are two dif threads among the various bleed valves. I do not know if I have the right one for the clutch which seems to be the weeper. Whatever-- I might as well replace all that I can since those little Ti deals were so expensive they might as well have been genuine gold plated.

Thanks for inputs there Grn. I guess it will do no harm to just take the OEMs out and replace one at a time. No harm can come as long as I have plastic protecting everything and I wash everything down with water afterward. I probably will have to bleed some air out even if I loose just a few drops.

Rook I took my sons medicine syringe and some pvc tubing small enough to just get over the nipple and used that to push fluid up to the top of system pushing out any air bubbles and such, then I pumped the lever back and forth a bit to watch the fluid move through the system and make sure no air bubbles were still present, closed off the nipple and pumped 3 times, cracked the nip and nothin but fluid no air, close nip pump up pressure and your ready to go, mityvac-$80, medicine syringe-$3. just my 2 cents. How's that sound Hub? sounds stupid but it works.

Thanks Bobby. Too late, i already got the mityVac. If you don't have access to medical syringes, you might pick up a bottle of Cajun Butter injectable marinade (about $2.75, delicious and 0 g of fat) and use it on a big pork tenderloin. Grill that with your rotisserie and then use the 5" x 1/2" syringe to do your brakes.

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Thanks Hub. Yes, looks like you are bleeding without the open/close routine that is often recommended. Have ti try that.

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Any time, Rooksteer I bucket listed that off the want list. You know what's funny? If you think about it, you are pumping at the bottom to suck it out. I'm at the top making the same moves as the mighty nice talk'inn to ya, Rook.

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yep thats how I do a full system and fluid change, thats a cool vid Hub.

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Thanks, Bobby. I tried to find me throwing a brake line on one of the choppers. With an index finger I prime the master. I bolt on the hose to the master, cover my index an thumb over the banjo hole, I pump away. Once I have pressure, I install the hose to the caliper. Pump away, and for grins, I purge the master at the banjo bolt. Fast work.

Buy the time someone hooks up all the titty hoses and that catch tank to the pump, I'm half way done. That's part of the fun. This brake bleed stuff is like an oil thread, a tire thread, like one of those. Slow if you think I'm going to wait for someone to hook up all thisuck on onend, me pushing the time it took your bike is on the clock sorta speak.

Does the make a reach around sound like a duck, quacks like a duck, and all that suckamuck?

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