Yep, I think you might check that. Since the OP says he can ride it around, bucks and such, is it spark or fuel? Only way to find out is to pinch the fuel pump hose clip up, then pull it off the bottom of the tank nipple. Throw a hose on the tank nipple end, run the gas down to an empty water bottle; turn the key on; watch the gas fill the bottle.

Let's put this way, it has to purge out the hose sorta fast, or it trickles out and now call it a fuel problem; not a spark [ECU-electrical] kind of spark dropout.

Do you think the valve adjustment would cause this issue or are they just worried about selling me?

Yes, I've seen it close and personal was someone hitting all the bases, popped the valve cover and there she was.
Fuel/Spark/Compression. They did you a favor if they set the valves. Yes, good call on their part is the very first move is check compression. Hot would have shown a tight valve... Cold would not. So to physically get in there, your neglect, clear the very first variable is the comp, they are chasing a phantom anyway.

This needs a jimmymac perspective, meaning, don't let this pass in the diagnostics... the shop didn't think fuel pump, but rode it anyway? Unless that gas cap is the next guess at it?

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Valves?...okay...well,I learned something again...thanks;)

the shop hasn't touched it yet, no test drive and didn't even hear it run or try to run. They just scheduled me to bring it in tomorrow(Friday 4 September! When I was in there I tried to get their perspective and they refused anything other than bring it in for a diagnostic and stating that it probably needs a valve adjustment.

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oh btw, when I went outside it started right up

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Doesn't sound like an ECU...sorry to say.Checked your PCV ground?

It's just like saying page 3 is more or less a back and forth guessing game without riding the bike to confirm the problem, then they can chase compression, electrical, aftmrk, etc. Do yourself a favor and have the valve set if not within the required schedule... it's due and not necessarily the cause of the stuttering.

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Grn; post # 1
"I also fully disconnected the PC5 just incase that was it as well."

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Okay...read that,but didn't remember...

So I dropped it off at the stealership! Come this Thursday it will be there for 2 weeks and they have not found the problem but have only test drove it once for 20 minutes.. So unfortunately there are new updates to give you all....
I did pull the fuel pump out and took it apart as best as I could and found nothing clogging it ....

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So the stealership, Cross Country Motorsports in Metuchen, NJ stated they couldn't duplicate the problem in the 2 weeks they had the bike and "THE SUPPOSED 2 HOUR test driving"...

I picked it up Tuesday, didn't ride it again until Thursday night(tonight) and within 15 minutes it started stuttering/bogging, and then did it approximately 12 more times until I made it to my destination.

On the way back home it did it again.... This time I wore my GoPro ... video to be posted soon

* Last updated by: mre14 on 9/25/2015 @ 5:04 AM *

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"I sent the ECU to Schnitz Racing to have it "REFLASHED" ;
Schnitz Racing offers ECU Reflashing for the Kawasaki ZX-14 that is restricted in the following ways:
ACCORDING TO THEIR WEBSITE:
Limited Hard Acceleration by Restricting Secondary Throttle Blade Opening
Reduced Peak Power Output by Limited Ignition Timing and/or RPM
Top Speed Limit or High Gear RPM Limits
These restrictions are used to control power output to allow easier control of the motorcycle for street conditions. However, these will limit the full potential of engine for racing use. Allow us to eliminate these restrictions and allow your engine to run the way it should.
Kawasaki ZX14 (06-11) Reflash Features:
Increased Rev Limiter to 11,500RPM (+500rpm from stock)
Top Speed Limiter Removed
Gear Based Fuel Trims Removed from Gears 1-3"

I think maybe that flash is the culprit.How about looking into that?IF you had a spare ECU...you could easily and quickly test this.I have an extra...unfortunately...it's for a 2013.It won't work in yours.

From another website...this quote from someone who got the Shnitz flash..."Seems odd since it has much more zip between 3-5000"...and you say yours is acting up in this range...IDK...something isn't working for ya in this low end area.Right where he states his increases the performance.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 9/25/2015 @ 6:51 AM *

mre, here's what I'd do... Go to NAPA, spark stick in hand, buy one spark plug wire with a narrow straight end so it fits [easy] into the head... note diameters. While there, buy a long thin screw so it can clip into the spark stick, snip the head off and grind the screw end to a point. Snip the end of the plug wire so this screw threads up into the middle of the plug wire. You just made a piggy-wire for a timing light.

A self powered timing light is taped to the fairing. The trigger is taped over with a nut to trigger the light on. As I ride to tell if I am spark or fuel. I know I am heat related, i.e., fires right up cold, but when running???:

1. Am I a system?
2. Am I fuel?
3. Am I spark?

Spark: Since my setup is [chasing a spark] for shutter, I can watch a clean spark stick, I jump my piggy-wire from stick to stick.
Fuel: Since every spark is clean, no spark drop in shutter, has to be fuel related is pump filter, pump itself, pressure drop... are just a few thoughts.
System: Since heat is a factor inside the ECU or its sensors, there is so much heat until breakdown of flow, jump in flow... only your timing light knows for sure.

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So I just watched the video and the camera isn't close enough for you to clearly see the gauge cluster and the stutters aren't pronounced enough to really be able to see them in the video

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In case anyone is still following this thread and wants to know what the outcome was.....

The wires to the Bank Angle Sensor or Tip Over sensor had gotten frayed and were shorting out ... only found this issue bc I was going to change the wiring harness and after removing all fairings under the upper I could see the wires....

taped them separately and then wrapped them together, bike is running fine now!

Hope everyone has a good season

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Great! And thanks for posting the solution.

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Wild. Interesting. Who woulda thought? ... Oh, and a shitass placement is they might be peeking in here and finding out a field fix is needed.

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There you go... bumbling binary. It's tied in with the ign/fuel/pump no doubt. Man, if that's not salt on the pee tear, I'd be

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I have the same problem and I can't fix it by 2 years... Hope his details will gonna help me. Thanks guys!

* Last updated by: Ajba on 2/8/2021 @ 3:59 AM *

Aj,
1. Connector not connected ~ Obvious, right?
2. Wire out of connector ~ Same here... but...
3. Jobber is shorted(no)-comes back on. ~ Pins breaking-making contact(yes) ~ Frayed wire at the pin's wire insert end(yes).

Notice how key off, key on and angle sensor act like a key as well. Thus the cutout. So the idea is to remove the plastic off the bike; expose every connector and begin to look for frayed wire ends vibrating and/or breaking their strands one at a time. To me, it sounds like the vibe was so centered in that area, it could(?) walk the pin loose and pin to pin is lost/comes back on kind of scenario. Wire strands are still a connection, but could be a resistance factor too(?)

WATT are the odds you look at the angle sensor wire ends to the jobber-(angle sensor). And since the nose is off or you took enough off to get at the angle sensor... don't touch it, but start the bike, let it idle and do the old middle finger under the thumb and whack it hard to see if the bike cutouts. Aim for the connector wires just under the connector itself; so you upset both pin wiggling in the connector to the jobber's pin, and/or wire end in the pin is that integrity... or you see the same frayed wire at that pin.

Say no joy at the angle sensor. Next we look for main ground wires all connected to one large eyelet crimp-connector. That's located by the back of the tank, right side, bolted to the frame. Bike is running, index finger goes piano drag across the keys, but these are wires and that kind of move over the wires for integrity, or kills the ign/kills the spark scenario.

No joy there, feel your way up the main harness, right side, begin to feel a 'joint connector' or a square that protrudes out of the wrapped tape of the harness. No need to pull the tape back, or cut the tape. Same aim-game is to have the bike running, then twist the square at both sides that come out of joint box.

I think we are talking a ground lost, but it narrows down to how many jobbers need that ground, and we are talking ign/spark/loss only.
a. Kill switch is a scenario.
b. Kickstand is a scenario.
c. But grabbing all those grounds at one time; engine running... looking for a pin in a haystack scenario.

* Last updated by: Hub on 2/8/2021 @ 11:05 AM *

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Bogging, Bucking or Stuttering

Sounds like what my Gen1 did once in it's life. The speedo went up to 100 to and I was doing about 35. Then the speedo went to 0 and the bike ran normally a short time later but the speedo stayed on 0. I shut it down and when I restarted it a few hours later, it was fine and has been ever since.

I had chalked it up to wet speed sensor connectors since I had washed the bike just previous to this incident. I wrapped the connectors in tape and never had a problem again.

Last winter I changed the sprockets for the second time and found the countershaft sprocket nut only about hand tight. One of the points on the nut caught on the bent lockwasher. The nut must have turned about 20 degrees before the lockwasher caught it. I had changed the sprockets for the first time a short while before the wacky speedo event and I now think the bucking, cutting out and crazy speedometer may have been the result of the speed sensor getting off time with the countershaft sprocket nut.

Just thought I'd mention that. If anyone experiences that on the Gen1, all you need to do is pull the speed sensor and peek in the hole to view the nut. Gen2, I guess you'd need to take the sprocket cover off.

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/8/2021 @ 8:14 PM *

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