I'm starting to wonder what the life of a ZX14 fuel pump is?Today my bike was cutting off intermitally.Cruising at 78-80 at 3800 rpms.I've delt with this for almost a year now.Kawi said check the conection at the fuel pump to the wiring harness and it looks good.WTF???

I thought you got that sorted out Ninja.....now it's happening again?

Seems like it getting worse!Alot of it was yesterday!!

Well I unhooked the PCIII,still the same.Going to turn the Atre off next.I do have a fuel pump coming too!!

Just got the fuel pump today and put it in.Will go for a ride a see what it does!!!!

Okay Ninja....How's she doin?

Don't throw it away if it works; the pump was the problem that is. Sell me the base with the connector fitting. That is all I'm really after for are fuel end fittings for more injector routing into the ram chamber.

Amazing!!!I get it in and the weather turns to S#@t!!!!!Wind blowin',cold front movin' in,JEEZ!!!!

I would not rule out a electrical problem, fuel pumps usually go bad and that's it.
I would look at the harness; look for the wires to lay on something sharp enough to cause a grounding issue. I had a ZX9R that blow fuses to the headlights. Turned out to be the harness was getting cut into with just a sharp bolt head boring through the wires.

Well...nothing!Still doing it.I even borrowed a friend of mine's fuel pump relay out of his 06 10r(part #'s were the same)Still doing it .I don't know what to think anymore.I've looked at wire connections,looked to see if anything is squished,nothing!I even checked the killswitch.
I guess start testing componets.Yea!!

Wire dropout. Something is rubbing? Pin is loose at connector?

It's like if your riding along and just hit the kill switch real quick.But if it dies completely,bike in nuetral,hit the starter button,nothing.Turn the key off then on,starts right up like nothing happened If it was a loose connection,rubbing wire or something else why would it just start right up again?I'm begining to think it's the ECU.A glich or something from when it tipped over.The tipover sensor is new and tests out just fine.And after reading thru the service manual and the codes of whats what nothing makes sense except maybe the ECU.Everthing you read about in the service manual on page's 3-43 to 3-44 lead to the ecu.Can I borrow someone's???

Don't you have your powercommander connected to the subframe?(underneath where that small bolt goes in by the harness)I just posted up about my bike's starting problem.Worked fine until I removed the subframe arm,then re-installed.She fired-ran for about two seconds..then died.Turned key off.Back on to start-worked fine.Turned key off,back on...started...ran about two,three seconds,died out .Did this several times-sometimes,she just cranked with no coding at all.It ended up being the subframe surface paint interfering with a good ground.I filed off the paint(on the subframe arm) where the mount bolts go through,into the frame(back and at the engine).Fired right up perfectly and has stayed that way since.Ya...so the ground worked intermittently...Had me worried there for a minute.Lucky it didn't do this out riding...might have had to get er towed.It was just by accident I put two and two together,cause I'd only done so much on replacing the plugs-couldn't have been too many things I figured.Just happened to notice the PC ground wire on that subframe.... Then it came to me.When I looked at the bolt holes-they were covered with the factory paint.I tightened one down,then tried the starter again...she fired right up and kept running.Kinda strange she didn't give me a problem before.You know if it's making an electrical contact,there's a small amount of "bonding" of the metal surfaces at the short.So it may work and hold temporarily,then when ya cut the power(or it breaks the contact)that bond is broken,until she fires again and rebonds.Could be what's going on.IDK-but mine definitely was losing the ground,then re-establishing it.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 5/4/2010 @ 12:36 AM *

RSVR and my ECU got a deal. There's a 'Cougar' in your wire harness on out. Phantom shit will drive you nuts, you better read that manual again. It says, no codes, I'm wasting my time sending black boxes unless I can pull this one off one time for you. And to seal the deal, I install a new set of tires so you don't see what I...

... Think you better connect and disconnect like 4 ways you yank on her hair strands. Pins corrode in that air I'm looking at is more snow now, but change in weather or wherever that bike is stored, I can't see how it could look like a battery post 5 years old looking at the connectors. That kind of mis-diagnosis.

Maybe you get lucky with a strand and it comes out? Brush new metal contacts between connector ends? What would be a cool tool is a darning needle. You have that hook you wrap around a wire and tug. You would be surprised how rugged a tug you can pull on a wire. I mean, not enough to pull the wire off the connector end, but say if one is loose, it will be pulled out with that needle with some pull behind it.

This is more a darning needle in the haystack find anyway. Get the ohm meter out, pull the sensors off that are the drive-ability wires like sensors and spark coils, etc or the whole harness if need be. You are going from ground to ground wires and read one is off it's junction, etc.

Better yet, you can start at the ECU wires. Pull the battery out of the loop so you can turn a key on so you can start at the key switch on out to the ECU wire ends. You have the input/output/grounds and their grounds are separate from say the brake light, tail light grounds. Those 3 are the main wires for the drive-ability you want to chase after.

Did you tell Kawi you had the PC hooked up when they said check fuel pump? I mean, you had this before the mods and I'm guessing no PC was installed. You had this glitch from day one?

Double check that ground wire from the battery to the frame, I think that there is a lighter wire shared there as well, with a connector right in the same area. Take it apart, just don't check for tightness, could be corroded, or similar issue like Blue had. There maybe other ground wires here and there, got to check them all.

PCIII ground behind anti-freeze tank on left side,good metal to metal ground(plus I disconnected it and same)Grounds all look good,all metal.Been checking connections and pulling on them.I found a ECU for $80,I figure it's a cheap way to find out(plus it's nice to have extra parts around)Been taking a break on it and working on my Ducati!!

Oh, ninja? "I removed my ground?" Would you like to try that one more time? WATT were you thinking?

Disconnected the PCIII completely at the connection by the throttle bodies.

That tells me nothing about that (+) you need to remove. See, when the hot wires to the injectors are still in the loop, this still has the grounds bleeding that (+) as if you never took ground off.

Got to have a fuse in line on that hot wire so you can base connect back to your bike. The ground wire is ground. It has no current to complete the loop, now try it.

Hi ninjamaster I used to have the same problem on my zx14, I would be in 6th gear and around 2,500-3,600 rpm and the engine would jerk like if the fuel pump was cutting off and when I opened the throttle halfway the problem went away and then it got worse and worse,the bike ran great as long as it was cold but once it warmed up the pulsing came on and even shutting the engine off, When the engine shut off the fuel pump sounded like crap and made a gurgle sound with grinding noise so I would let it cool off for a minute and I was good to go again. My fuel pump only lasted 4 months on my zx14 then I replaced it with 3 others that did the same thing :( after about 1 month of messing around and getting no where I installed a new 90 psi fuel pump that goes on a chevy truck with a vortec engine and it took me to California and back but then I got back the problems came back :( .... So I looked at my fuel assembly and noticed that the rubber seal where the fuel pump slides in was getting pushed out so I replaced it and the same thing happen I even jb welded the damn pump in there and the jb weld blow out grrrr. I took a look at the fuel regulator and it looked perfect and still does , I shoved a thin metal punch inside and tried moving the plunger inside but it was stuck as if welded so I replaced it and never had anymore troubles I even got more power because I decided to leave the gm pump inside lol . The problem was the regulator was stuck and fuel back pressure was pushing the rubber seal out at the pump, When the engine cooled down or I open the throttle the pressure would drop and the rubber seal would pop back in place, The fuel pump keeps the rubber seal from coming out all the way and it goes back into the plastic assembly when low pressure is present

It was all my fault , I removed the fuel tank and drained the gas for winter storage and since the tank was dry for about 5 months the insides of the fuel regulator corroded and the spring froze :(
I was blaming the power commander for the longest time checking the harness and pump relay for damage , Everything pointed to an electrical problem ... A small particle could be clogging your regulator ???

PS keep a regulator and rubber seal on hand all the time ready to install in case you get stranded It takes about 30 mins to remove and install the parts , if you don't replace the parts soon one of these morning it wont start at all.

Sounds like a winner NinjaRay! You can always use StaBil in yer tank Bro!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 5/11/2010 @ 7:58 AM *

So the regulator is in the fuelpump assembly?

Yes Sir its inside a plastic cover located on the plastic assembly right above the fuel pump connector it is round and held in by 2 tabs, it will pop out revealing the regulator I got my regulator and parts from other assembly I got for cheap on ebay I don't think you can buy these new, Kawasaki makes more money selling you the whole assembly for like 290 bucks.

My future fuel pump
I am going to switch to an 08-09 fuel pump assembly because of the different configuration and more compact design I hear the pump is better on the 08 model. If I were you I would just buy a whole assembly in good condition from ebay off a newer model zx14 and throw in the new pump you bought, The mounting holes on the assembly are the same, The connectors are the same along with the low fuel pressure switch.

Thoughts & Extras
A couple years from now I predict kawasaki might end up recalling the 06-07 zx14 to replace the fuel pump assembly or they might not because they don't want to taint the zx14 image with more recalls like the whole frame recall awhile back, I love my zx14 but I think the pump assembly suck , I suspect they knew about this so they changed it in 08 As for other problems with zx14's the headers also suck the clearance of the oil pan and header collector has to be like 1 inch or less and the engine tends to run really hot causing the oil to brown out sooner then it should, just now the complaints are coming in about how the engine is running hot and over heating in traffic or on hot days but there is a remedy for that like wrapping the whole header with exhaust wrap or just the bottom exhaust section , I find that fiberglass cloth soaked with heat paint does the trick too lol but shhhh its our secret don't tell anyone let them keep giving there money to muzzy for bigger fans

I would not hold my breath about any recall on the fuel pump issue, unless it is deemed a safety issue. It took several frames to show cracks before a recall campaign started.
The overheating has always been a issue for some but not all. I had to replace my cooling fan on my 08, and when looking up the part the dealer discovered that the part number had been changed from the original, if that tells you something. They may down the road make improvements to the parts, but doubt that recalls would be in order.
I have not read that the Muzzy fan are any better in cooling, so I would not waste money on that part. What does help is a full exhaust system, most all people have reported.

I had a ZRX1200R and most everyone had a fan issue with them. The brackets that held the fan on the radiator mount would break, and had to be re-welded to fix. Kawasaki never made good on that one either.

Well,got the ECU put in and.........so far so good.Rode it last nit for about 75 miles and no shut downs I'm keeping my fingers crossed.