Has this ever happen to anyone? I was two miles from home after putting in about 300 miles on some back country roads, and i hear a loud pop that comes from my engine, then loud a hissing sound, engine knock and loss of power. I was able to make to a gas station about a quarter mile away. A freind came and towed the bike home, im thinking i just blew my motor that i just put in with only 1800 miles on it. Before the motor install i did a vin check and had the mechanic do a compression check, all came back ok. The mechanic said this was one of the best use motor hes installed. So im thinking the worst." my season done and i aint putting no more money in this bike". When i get home i pull off the left panels and see the first coil stick is off, when i pull it out the coil stick and plug come out together, i tighten the plug and popped the coil stick back in, turned the key and she fired right up.. Im thinking maybe when they did the compression check they did not tighten the plug enough.. any ideas?

Im thinking maybe when they did the compression check they did not tighten the plug enough.. any ideas?

I haven't heard a good wrenching gone wrong story like that in a while. Glad you got it figured out.

Before installing the spark plug, did you checked all remaining plugs to make sure they were properly tighten? Maybe they helicoil the plug and it came out loose?? lol You are lucky it didn't do any major damage. Why did you replace the engine?

I've always installed plugs by feel. For like 40 + years...
Thought I'd go to the source, the NGK website and see what the manufacturer says.
Guess what? They have torque specs for different plug designs.
ZX14 style plugs are 8 ftlbs.
Never to old to learn...

Thanks for the input, i checked the other plugs , all loose. I dont know how i was riding like that...that means the mechanic never tightened them after the compression check.

I bought a car once where the previous owner paid a shop for a tune-up prior to me picking up the car. A day or so later, it blew out a spark plug while I was going 80 MPH down the freeway. The plug proceeded to get sucked back into the hole over and over, thus hammering all the threads out of the socket in the engine block.

Said shop paid for the helicoil job and I never had another problem with it.

that means the mechanic never tightened them after the compression check.

MOST of the maintenance on this bike only requires commitment.If you feel you can do it....then go for it.Not everyone can be committed to working on their bike....and learning...'s okay.Good on you for checking those other plugs....once you begin work....you learn the in's and out's of your machine and how things go together.Working on your bike becomes a satisfying thing...you KNOW things are right...definitely get a shop manual.....

I have to say here...I NEVER use a torque wrench....haven't had any issues NOT using one.You just have to realize than certain fasteners are threading into 'soft' metals....and tighten carefully and STOP when it feels right.That's how I do it.I also mark certain bolts(like the axle)in particular with a sharpie...and tighten to the mark on the axle and Nut.It always will be the same....no guessing;)

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 6/3/2014 @ 9:17 AM *

I decided years ago to NEVER to bring my bike to a shop

I try and do all my own work , but puting a motor in is out my league for now. I called the shop and told them what happened. One good thing was they admitted to the mistake, apoligized and offered me a free oil change.

I agree on the commitment part. I do all my own maintenance and probly could remove most parts on my bike with me eyes closed. i just wasent ready for the motor swap.I have the shop manual on cd with pdf format, that has helped me alot,and working on my bike myself, not only gives satifaction but save a boat load of $

I haven't done anything like valve checks or motor swaps....everything else....I'm comfortable with;)I'll leave the valve checking to my friend and Kawasaki mechanic.Owns his own shop....knows Kawi's inside and out;)

A motor swap would be really major for me. It would take me months, I'm sure.

Working on your bike becomes a satisfying thing.

@*$$#*&$... &**/#!... $#&?

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/3/2014 @ 9:35 PM *

I just had an idea so I had to come back online.

I try and do all my own work , but puting a motor in is out my league for now. I called the shop and told them what happened. One good thing was they admitted to the mistake, apoligized and offered me a free oil change.

I don't blame anyone for letting the pros put a new engine in a bike. An oils change, you can do on this bike pretty easy if you have a little experience. How 'bout you ask the shop how much an oil change costs and then tell them you would prefer to have an equal amount in oil and filters? Then you just do it, thereby eliminating the possibiloty that they have the same monkeyboy that put the plugs in change your oil.

+1.

Yeah, I was gonna say, How do ya feel about going back there for the "free" oil change?

"Do you feel Lucky? Well, do ya??"

NEV-R-SEIZE on the plug threads and some electrical grease on the coil boots will pay dividends when it's time to change them next time....Yep. Finger tighten and then half a good turn with the ratchet.

Anyone who leaves spark plugs loose enough to blow out isn't a mechanic, he's a HACK! If you're smart, you'll never let him touch your stuff again.

NEV-R-SEIZE on the plug threads and some electrical grease on the coil boots will pay dividends when it's time to change them next time....Yep. Finger tighten and then half a good turn with the ratchet.

Been searching and I can't find the thread that I asked this question on but I know I got some answers (maybe it was PMs) --so sorry for asking again--

Do you like to use high temp anti-seizing agent on the plug threads?

I'd greatly appreciate if you'd answer a second time or state your opinion even if you have not talked to me about this recently.

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/1/2015 @ 2:39 PM *

Go dry. The plug's outer coating is used so the dissimilar metals will not bond. Anti-seize was more or less; solving the problems of the old style coated plugs. Plug manu's caught up with the metallurgy.

Pg. 5-2; part number 14 is the spark plug. Note references at the bottom of page 5-3, which states letters next to a part that needs a grease, silicone prep before assembly, etc. Part 14 showing nothing needing addressing when installing. Follow book - Eye rest my case go look.

What I understand is you should only use anti-seize on our plugs if they're being reinstalled. So first time, no, subsequetn times yes.

Thanks. I can't remember if I used anti seize or not. I don't believe I did or else I'd remember for sure. Using some before reinstalling sounds like a prudent measure but I doubt it matters much one way or the other. I reinstalled one of mine without applying anti-seize and it still came out very easily years later. ...but just for the OCD factor, I wanted to know.

Any other replies, welcome. I'm still listening.

"I can't remember if I used anti seize or not. I don't believe I did or else I'd remember for sure". Yer too young to b going there Rookster.Those seats are reserved already!

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/1/2015 @ 7:26 PM *

Part of how a spark plugs works is it's heat conductivity and using anti-seize may insulate it or change the amount of heat the plug can shed. For this reason, I've never used anti-seize on a spark plug.

Guess you learn something everyday.

I've always used anti-seize, dielectric grease and torque to spec.

But.... I guess I'll not be using anti-seize any longer.

NGK

Anti-seize

NGK spark plugs feature what is known as trivalent plating. This silver-or-chrome colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize. NGK tech support has received a number of tech calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage.

Torque

Torque is critical in the plug’s ability to dissipate heat and perform properly. Always follow the manufacturer’s recommended torque specification. An under-torqued spark plug can lead to excessive vibration and improper heat dissipation, causing spark plug and/or engine damage. An over-torqued spark plug may cause thread damage or breakage, or compromise internal seals within the spark plug, leading to improper heat dissipation or exhaust gas blow-by.

Anyone who leaves spark plugs loose enough to blow out isn't a mechanic, he's a HACK! If you're smart, you'll never let him touch your stuff again.

1+

Shit happens tell him. Don't be upset with the guy. Let him know what happened. He'll appreciate it. If he wasn't on top of plugs, he'll be now.

"I can't remember if I used anti seize or not. I don't believe I did or else I'd remember for sure". Yer too young to b going there Rookster.Those seats are reserved already!

Thanks for the info everyone. Looks like most feel use of anti=-seizing agent on plug threads is not a necessary thing. I might rub a little on if the plug was removed but as stated, if it's tightened properly, it probably won't ever seize. The torque spec for plugs is not real high.