Confirmed. the 1:1 regulator is not sufficient for stock injectors on a turbo setup. I knew that but I was hoping the tuner would've mentioned that before having it for a couple weeks. I'm a hair jaded, but he could've had worse news to be fair.

He's throwing ID1050x injectors in. I usually hate to pay for labor. but the bike is 4 hours away from me. im not going to double my trip to save pennie's after cost of gas, food, sleep. Adding 8 hours to my overall trailering time to this bike is just out of the picture at this point. It's been on a trailer probably 500x longer than it's moved under its own power.

I'm moving away from the Microtech. For later E purposes. makes more sense to just bump up injector size now and sell the microtech to pay for them. If anyone is interested in the "Stage 2" portion of the RCC Stage 2 kit, I will be selling it for probably $1,000 + shipping. It's perfect. It's been tuned to perfection. Just need to tune your ECU through RCC (or have a local dyno tuner just tweak your tip-in fueling and part throttle fueling between 0-15% as well as pull 1 degree of timing for each pound of boost on the top end) and install this kit. You would need to ask RCC Richard for the Stage 2 airbox port, rubber hoses, 1:1 regulator. Saves you a few grand. I've probably invested 3-4k to get the MicroTech configured and well. Wish someone had warned me I was cornering myself with it...

Kit is perfect for anyone looking to only run a single fuel. As pump 93 is limited to 300-350whp (varies by tuner recommendation, Richard says 400whp)

* Last updated by: danmin on 9/15/2025 @ 7:06 PM *

I'm curious how much of a handful it is to ride that bike all out at 316 hp. I'd want to go for 550 just to have it but I'm looking at videos of turbo busas and 14s crossing the finish line over 180 mph in sixth gear and still on one wheel. Of course, the swing arm has to help a lot but at some point, if the clutch is holding, the tire's going to spin and maybe you still wheelie at the same time. Too much is still not enough! I guess it would be fun to find out and there's always the option of turning the boost down, right?

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/21/2025 @ 4:26 AM *

316whp made me shake from adrenaline and the terror of wondering if the bike was going to fall apart or blow up on its inaugural rips. It's certainly not a beginner bike. But I would happily twist the throttle and feel the boost build any chance I could (I also had to because my tip-in fueling was wonky). If ~200ho to ~300hp felt this fun. Makes you think about 400/500+ho. I would think at those power levels you would need to review if your suspension and frame are in perfect shape. Also the more you milk it, the shorter it lives. Horsepower comes at a cost of wear. Though I did see some old forum posts of someone running a turbo zx14 for many many many miles. I gapped my rings with a little extra room just as a precaution, but that doesn't mean they'll last 100k miles at high power. I'm not even sure if I'm gonna last 100k miles on this bike with the way local drivers behave

He offered to seal up the airbox. I couldn't say "no". I've been worried about sealing it up. I bought some fancy bolts with machined channels in the head and o-rings that were going to seal the airbox from the old injector rail holes. I guess if his solution (whatever it is) doesn't last, I can always revert back to the bolts.

It's officially been at his shop for more than a month.
I'll post here as soon as something changes.

500 hp is what you need to beat Art Papikyant. I just saw a video of a turbo busa laying a smackdown on him. They claim it was a 525 hp bike.

Remove the upper rail???? Where did that come from? You need the upper rail to add extra fuel for turbo, don't you? ...or are the new injectors going in the throttle bodies and they will take care of all fueling?

Seems like welding would be the best way to plug air box holes.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/25/2025 @ 6:51 AM *

500 hp is what you need to beat Art Papikyant. I just saw a video of a turbo busa laying a smackdown on him. They claim it was a 525 hp bike.

The last ZX14R to beat him was allegedly 525-550hp. Not sure if that is true since dynos can lie. But the Bike that beat Art was set up just like mine. Except the swingarm brand, MaxxEcu, and maybe a valve job.

New ID1050X's will give me all the fueling I'll need on pump gas or E85. Dyno tune will make them flow correctly.

Microtech controls the upper rail in the airbox. no more microtech- no more upper rail needed. I'd rather have it out so I can sell it, plus I need it out so I can access my velocity stake intake tube thingies.

Welding would be ideal. Hard to find a good welder around me to do it.

I move in exactly 1 month. If he isnt able to plug the holes by then, I'll be able to find a welder easier in the city.

Bike is ready. Picking it up today

Less HP than I ever wanted, but I am happy as long as it is safe and reliable.

I can turn it up when I go MAXX. If I ever.

Bike is finally back home. It was an 11 hour turn around getting the bike. Chris warned me that the injectors are pretty big for pump gas. That it runs pretty rich down low. Also I noticed that the bike is either experiencing the same spark-cut as before when the plugs fouled, or is just running way too rich on tip-in.

After about a half second or full second of any throttle above ~80% it "stutters" and does what sounds like 2-step, it builds boost then takes off like a missle.

Feels quicker than before, despite there being less power. it even tried to wheelie on me a few times (including while I was leaning (scary).

I'm disappointed that the bike still isn't running quite perfect. Only solution left is to go to MaxxEcu or just live with it as-is.

After about a half second or full second of any throttle above ~80% it "stutters" and does what sounds like 2-step, it builds boost then takes off like a missle.

Haha having a bike that can make 550 or so and beat Art would be pretty cool. I'd be more comfortable with that power level on a busa since it is more serviceable, but I am pretty married to this bike already. I think I'll pinch pennies for the next 2 months and pull the trigger when it's too cold to ride (unless i do something stupid and expensive car-related or girl-related. Or maybe just decide I don't need another $6000 bill.). Plus I'm sure his shop will be nice and dead so he can get to it faster.

The sooner Rook or anybody else buys the MicroTech Setup is the sooner I go Maxx ;).

Here is my breakdown of parts needed for MaxxEcu:

MaxxEcu- Full Plug and play kit with added sensors for flex fuel, intake temp, wastegate pressure, oil pressure, fuel pressure, oil temp, etc.
NOS Bracket- Holds the CO2 bottle on swingarm
CO2 Kit- Motion Raceworks full CO2 kit. Comes with 2.5LB bottle, lines, fittings, pressure gauges hi/lo, valve on bottle.
Maxx Tune- I asked Boomstune and he said it was $1000 flat. Includes flex tuning and everything. As well as a year of remote support.
Travel/Commute- Costs of gas/food to get to Houston and back twice. About $150 each way.

CO2 system needed with MaxxEcu for boost pressure control and also auto-shift. I can also go with an air compressor. But I despise those setups after my latest experience.

Gotta get used to my increase in rent and gotta buy some new furniture as well as pay off all of my credit cards before I buy the Maxx. I'll consider it a treat for myself for financial discipline. LOL.

* Last updated by: danmin on 9/27/2025 @ 9:41 AM *

Haha having a bike that can make 550 or so and beat Art would be pretty cool. I'd be more comfortable with that power level on a busa since it is more serviceable, but I am pretty married to this bike already.

I do like the ZX-14. Just barely scratching the surface of the research I'm sure could be done, it looks like the the 14R outdoes the Hayabusa even when it comes to comparing the two on boost. The TTS supercharger produces more power on a 14R than a Hayabusa and that was even with air box leaks on the 14R. With the RCC kit, the 14 makes boost right off of idle where the Hayabusa has lag up to 6000 rpm. The 14 might be a PITA to work on but I'm kind of thinking it responds to boost better than anyone might hope for. Stronger stock has always been a good indication of which will be stronger modded. ...of course, the sky's the limit when it comes to improving the stock features but as already mentioned, the less you need to change, the less headaches you have and the less money you spend.

The sooner Rook or anybody else buys the MicroTech Setup is the sooner I go Maxx ;).

(unless i do something stupid and expensive car-related or girl-related. Or maybe just decide I don't need another $6000 bill.).

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/27/2025 @ 10:48 PM *

Please don't take offence to what I'm going to say here...
The story of the young bull (danmin) and the old bull (rook) comes to mind. You see they're standing on a high mountain range looking down into the valley at 500 beautiful cows. The young bull says to the old bull "I say we run down there and f$%k us a few of those cows"! The old bull turns to the young bull and says "I say we walk down there and f$%kem all"!
danmin you rushed into this project questioning a long proven reliable combination looking for more. I don't fault you for that however I've been running RCC's stage 1 plus with stock pistons and rods on pump 93 making 299+ proven hp flawlessly for years now. No need for the Microtech yet but when I do install my new race fully built motor I'll add that system and not think twice since I have full trust in the tuner that developed and programmed it to my application. Granted I'm not looking for 550 hp on E85 but 400 on pump and 440 on C16 will do just fine. Understand I'm on a M/T 7" slick and can have traction concerns on a prepped track. On the street with a street tire all bets are off. Being able to use anything more that 225 hp requires suspension, chassis and clutch tuning, tires and an array of additional knowledge which I don't protest to have. Just my 2 cents and not meant to offend, Rick B...

No offense taken. For me, this whole thing has been an expedition into a world that was completely new. It’s full of mixed reports, mixed parts, and mixed results. Some guys, like you, run a Stage 1 and make the same power as my more involved setup.

I’ve talked to people all over the spectrum. One guy made around 400 wheel on stock rods and turbo pistons in a Gen 1, running C16 and big boost for years. Black Widow in San Antonio pushed a Gen 2 with a Stage 1 RCC to about 16 psi on E before melting stock pistons. On the other hand, Chris at Boomstune won’t tune a ZX14 past 250 whp without rods, swearing the block will split if you try. Power Proven Cycles in Tampa and RingTuned echo that belief. Richard at RCC sold me the Stage 2 Ultra kit, assuring me 400 whp was safe on pump 93. Chris Huckeby in Sherman told me 350 whp with 32 degrees advanced TDC timing would be fine. Roman had a Stage 2 like mine but only saw 311 whp at 11 lbs on pump gas. Carpenter Racing told me APE products would blow up my bike, while APE told me Carpenter wouldn’t last. And RCC—best known in the game—mostly just sells kits designed by Scott Davis, his old employee.

It’s been a journey. I made some friends, got scammed, got lied to, and spent a small fortune on something that could end me if I lean too far over grass clippings. I just wanted to share a window into what it feels like stepping into this world with so many voices promising the moon but often delivering “meh.”

That said, I never dismissed your input. What you’re doing just seems like another way of making the same sausage. Honestly, there are only a few truly “wrong” ways to go about it. If my build doesn’t progress much beyond its current state, I can’t complain too much. At least I might’ve helped someone else in my shoes, and I believe the way I built mine should give it a long life—hopefully.

You also made a good point about traction and the bigger picture. It takes more than an engine and fuel to make the power useful, and I liked your analogy. I’m planning to post a comprehensive parts list later—what I’d do differently if I started over, with power goals in mind. My goals this time were immature: “How fast can I go on the street with what I can build in my garage?” Most of the hardships came from not trusting enough at times, and trusting too much at others. I tried to follow the consensus of who I thought were wise leaders in this niche. But that involves trusting some stranger with all my money. While someone else with the same credibility assures my I will surely blow my engine and money for no good.

It’s been fun and frustrating to say the least. Seems to be a similar experience to my dating life… Maybe I should call my shrink and see where else this pattern shows up. Or just let my right hand and the turbo noises be the therapy.

Today's church sermon about the 9th commandment. Hearing it made me realize how much of my experience has been shaped by other people’s words—sometimes honest, sometimes not, sometimes a mix. In a way, this whole build has reminded me why honest testimony matters so much, both in faith and in life. It's a tricky world.

* Last updated by: danmin on 9/28/2025 @ 2:32 PM *

That was masterly use of a great a joke along with a cold dose of reality Fordtech. It was a few months back but I remember thinking these things: this is my first (and possibly only) turbo project, I don't know what I'm doing, why not just pay for the whole kit which I trust, learn some things, and maybe move forward to something better after I actually know what "better" is. danmin, if I'm really ambitious, I might get to the stage of mechanical and turbo knowledge you now possess in a couple years. I just need to get my hands on the stuff. ...so right now, I'm looking to you to pave the way. I like your style. You're checking all the blind alleys and leaving no stone unturned. You're actually learning a lot about what doesn't work and you need that if you want to reach beyond what's provided in the RCC kit. The other side of the coin is, Richard has already tried every avenue conceivable to achieve the greatest horsepower. That's obviously a main selling point of the kit. He came up with this kit which he can sell to the public because it's relatively bolt on and go and it's reliable. It's practical, it works. Sure, it could make more hp but then it would be less reliable and not something he wants to deal with trying to support after the sale. Great business defines what the product can be.

I would hang onto that truly unique Microtech you own. If you decide it's the best practical option, you'll be going back to the fuel rail too. Don't weld those boltholes up just yet. I greatly admire your extremely creative thought process and I'm sure there are a lot of things you can learn from your tuner to get you where you want to be with this bike. If that were practical for a street bike, I think RCC would be selling the kit to do it. Get your injector situation figured out. If you go back to the Microtech and the fuel rail, it's actually making more power than it is right now without. If you can't solve the initial pause over 80% throttle with the massive injectors, then that is just something cool and unique about the bike. I think the Maxx might solve it because it can be tuned for boost pressure and that's what you're lacking without the Microtech. Maybe you'll get the bike to 400 and 500 hp with this route. I think it will be a process though and as Fordtech mentioned, require a lot of other upgrades to make usable under perfect conditions.

I'm in favor of the MaxxECU though. Worse case scenario is that it does the same thing for your injectors as the Microtech did for your fuel rail but it will have a lot of added capabilities. However, will the MaxxECU work for the fuel rail if you decide too go back to that? If not, I'd hold off.

I'd also leave the option open to go back to the original kit like Fordtech's suggesting. 316 hp is damn good and you already have it perfected.

You can use the secondary fuel rail on a MaxxEcu.

I would've kept the Microtech setup if I could. I just needed the low throttle %'s cleaned up and my previous tuner stopped replying to my texts or calls. So I took it to BoomstuneHQ. Boomstune told me he could tune the bike without the microtech turned on. He also mentioned that he had never tuned a MicroTech. He said he was willing to try but I wasn't super happy with the idea my bike would be his guinea pig.

The Microtech Injector rail largely stops me from performing maintenance of the silicone velocity stacks. Something that if left unchecked could result in a bolt falling into my combustion chamber. I had to order a super long 7/64" hex tool to try and tighten down the bolts on the stacks. Not a preferable or efficient way of doing things. It would take me about an hour to get to most of the bolts working around the injector rail. I liked the idea of no rail in the airbox. That would make FAR maintenance easier. Also knowing I can get a real good torque on each bolt is comforting. The 11" hex tool I used was hilariously weak, since it was only 7/64ths diameter, often twisting and bending as I tried to tighten things up.

Anyways, after telling me I could just use the stock injectors, he backtracked that statement saying I would need larger injectors to just use the stock ECU after he put my bike on the dyno. He was aware of my contemplating MaxxEcu down the line and sold me on the idea that I could have e85-ready injectors installed for future use while maintaining drivability on pump 93. Now I am mailing the ECU to him to clean up some of my tip-in.

With Microtech- 316whp (questionable reliability due to very advanced ignition timing)
With No MicroTech- 297whp (Less timing and less boost due to an uncapped top nipple of wastegate for consistent boost behavior and peak)

With the 316whp setup I was running up to 12 PSI peak of boost (capped wastegate nipple causing higher peak boost but inconsistent curve). On the 297whp setup I am running 10 PSI peak consistently. I will say that I can do a rolling burnout anytime I twist the throttle with 297whp and I couldn't do that with the 316whp setup. Could be the dynos were slightly varied, which is normal, showing different power numbers on the same bike.

I wish he had just cleaned up the off-boost fueling and maybe the timing, but he offered something I sort of always wanted. Even if it is a loss, I'd eat a 5% difference in power for peace of mind and less complexity.

I had some older guy who owned a bike shop and owns a handful of real supercars and race bikes tell me that these turbo bikes, when pushed, are like classic hot rods. Expect to always tinker on something. I am trying to take all these issues with that concept in mind. You don't increase the expected output of something 2-3x reliably without hiccups.

* Last updated by: danmin on 9/29/2025 @ 10:21 AM *

Took the bike out yesterday. Ran and sounded great. Something funny happened after about 150 miles. I started losing my clutch lever resistance and I could feel the clutch wasn't disengaging when the lever was pulled. I was still about 40 miles/1 hour away from home. It was a random issue where some moments it would feel normal and other moments the lever functioned as if it were a display piece.

I split off from the group I was riding with to begin my trip home and after about 1 mile I try to stop at a red light (right before my highway home) and I have no power over the clutch engaging/disengaging. It's stuck rolling at 30-40mph in 3rd gear. I hit the brakes and squeeze the clutch lever. Then I try to downshift and work my way to neutral without success. I was able to stall the bike thankfully. But not before a terrible metallic screeching noise from the clutch cover area. Loud enough to have everyone nearby watch as I try to control this bike. Once stalled I was able to shift it into neutral and roll it to a gas station to wait for someone to drive my trailer to pick the bike up (as well as myself) and take it home. If I left the bike in the part of town it was in- it might not have made it through the night without getting picked up.

On the ride home 4 of my 5 ratchet straps snapped. A pretty wild situation. I used those exact straps in the exact same way and tension to lug the bike 4.5 hours without needing so much as a tightening of the straps. The bike fell to its side on the brand new fairings and the handlebar poked a hole in the door of the trailer. It was a pretty crappy night.

I am going to pop the clutch cover and investigate the damage tonight or tomorrow....

Otherwise the bike performed great. Some of the cruising and WOT fueling was wonky. But perfect in most driving. I achieved twice the highway speed limit a handful of times with ease and without any hiccups.

No dash lights or anything when it made the noise and stalled. Fingers crossed things aren't totalled in there...

* Last updated by: danmin on 10/1/2025 @ 3:34 PM *

Did you mention something about a clutch fluid leak early on? I remember suggesting to someone that they check the plastic spacer between the clutch slave and the sprocket cover. It'll crack if over-torqued. Maybe a clutch fluid leak that let air into the system?

The screech .....all I can think of is gears not messing. It seems doubtful that would be the clutch planetary gear since that is in constant mesh. Maybe the gearbox gears from trying to shift under load? That screech might have been teeth grinding but probably not extremely hard at the speed and gear you were in. You got it to shift after it was shut down so there's reason to not be optimistic.

The worst thing is the bike falling on the trailer. Sorry about the rotten luck you had yesterday.

First thing is check if the clutch lever is still soft. If so, that must be an air bubble. Seems unlikely it's been in there without showing any signs after all the dyno runs and the riding you've done. That seems to point to a fluid leak. If fluid leaks out, the volume has to be replaced by something and that would most likely be air. If the bubble finally got large enough to rise to the master cylinder, that could cause an instant loss of clutch fluid pressure.

* Last updated by: Rook on 10/2/2025 @ 12:12 PM *

Clutch assembly was removed and torn apart. Clutch Hub Nut had backed itself almost entirely off the shaft. That is the nut responsible for keeping the entire clutch assembly in place. Not sure how it loosened besides it not being torqued enough. I have a new torque wrench I can use now that is probably more accurate than my last.

The screeching noise I heard appears to be from my clutch cover and 2-Stage lockup making contact while the basket had moved further away from the case. My clutch cover has an almost perfectly machined ring on the inside now. There were also strings of aluminum inside the case and resting on the oil pan in a manner to support that the noise heard was indeed from my lockup machining itself into the clutch cover.

Pulling pan off today to clean it and check for any other damage.

I will need to file the bolt head on my connecting rod #4 because it is still making contact with my clutch basket.

I ordered a new oil pickup tube which I anticipate will be the biggest holdup to getting the bike back on the road.

Fairings are missing paint unfortunately. ~$900 feels wasted. Oh well. I'm going to try and salvage them or just not care enough to notice the scratches.

I haven't inspected the clutch cable and slave yet. I removed the clutch cover and the basket assembly nearly fell out of the bike. My focus has been on that.

* Last updated by: danmin on 10/2/2025 @ 9:15 AM *

I forgot to mention-

I am less worried about the oiling system being contaminated or major failures in the engine.

Appears any concerning vibration I felt would be from the clutch basket being impacted. Any concerning oil contamination would be stopped as the basket would've immediately stopped its contact with the oil pump gear as it moved to the clutch cover. So for that fraction of a second I might've dropped oil pressure, but saved the oil system from picking up chunks. I am going to look at the oil pump gears now to see if they need replacement. Thankfully it's only $50 and pretty easy if they do need it

* Last updated by: danmin on 10/2/2025 @ 10:39 AM *

MyGen1 ZX-14's clutch is the only one I've ever removed in my life. I remember the hub nut was very hard to break free, probably the tightest fastener I've ever removed on the bike including the rear axle nut. The torque spec for the Gen1 is 99.6 ft lb. It's a special nut with a flattened spot in the threads to self lock on the input shaft. The SM recommends replacing the hub nut if it's removed. That's what I did. The torque wrench I used was cheap. I think it's kind of accurate. There are torque adapters that will turn anything with a matching square drive into a torque wrench. They're available in various ranges of torque settings. I think this is the exact one I own and I have trusted it over and over.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/adt-arm602-4a?seid=srese1&ppckw=pmax-tools&gclid=CjwKCAjw6P3GBhBVEiwAJPjmLsJ9SlLdng1MLOxBCb7adcDw8p5S1M5pw1gSwX8nW5bgPS4R-9mPahoCuooQAvD_BwE

I'd get a fresh new hub nut though. Leave nothing to chance.

I didn't know they needed to be replaced. Hmm. I have a titanium nut as a part of my slipper delete. I hope it's reusable since it cost $80.

I am thinking I trusted my giant MATCO impact. It's rated for 180ft/lb. Double checking with my torque wrench made it appear as though it was torqued well enough. I have since bought a new fancy digital torque wrench. To replace the one of unknown age annd origin. I am wondering if my rod nut contacting the basket also played a part, but 100ft/lb is a lot of torque to just get vibrated loose... Gen 2 calls for 100ft/lb flat.

Looks like my oil pump is okay. my pickup is toast. i took it off and looked inside. went straight into the trash. my parts arrive over the next 3-7 days. I am anticipating a return of the bike. Everything looks and feels good now. I deep cleaned everything in the engine. no more flakes anywhere.

In other news, I sold my entire Microtech setup. Someone offered $800 and they are now the proud owner of it.

Cleaned and clutch back together. Torqued to 100 FT/LB. Doubled checked it too.
Attached are new photos of everything cleaned and reassembled. I also included the clutch cover damage