Here is a short youtube video of my rod bolt clearance after filing the rod bolt down.

https://youtube.com/shorts/D7KfaQSo7Zc?si=KlqUCj1KEYxU7fnJ

I didn't know they needed to be replaced. Hmm. I have a titanium nut as a part of my slipper delete. I hope it's reusable since it cost $80.

Technically speaking, any torqued fastener is supposed to be replaced if removed. The hub nut has that flattened spot on the threads so maybe the self locking reduces after a single use. One bolt head on my Tundra's engine skid plate broke off after it was reused 7 times. That was an M8 thread. I torqued it to 20 ft lbs as specced and found the head missing the next time I changed oil. You'd think I'd have felt it twisting off since I recheck torque a few times while installing.

I am wondering if my rod nut contacting the basket also played a part, but 100ft/lb is a lot of torque to just get vibrated loose.

Could be. The basket turns in a counterclockwise direction which seems like it would tend to keep the hub nut tight. If there were to be a repeated, rapid impact against the rotation, that would seem to do the opposite. That might crack it loose and then you have engine back torque that might loosen it further.

Here is a short youtube video of my rod bolt clearance after filing the rod bolt down.

I doubt any of those parts (input shaft, crankshaft, rods, clutch basket) flex much under load but if you hear something, that would be it. It would be good if there were some way to test if there is enough flexion for the bolt head to hit the basket after filing...like if you could stick a wad of wax on the bolt head. Maybe paint? Take it apart to inspect for paint rubbed off the bolt head? Evidently there is some flexion under power because the bolt head cleared the basket before it was filed. I suppose you would see wear marks on a brand new basket but the one you are using already has some wear from the bolt touching it.

* Last updated by: Rook on 10/4/2025 @ 2:05 PM *

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I was thinking about that. shoving some play-dough on the bolt and turning everything over 5-10 rotations. my snake camera showed it clearing with a few mm of space. but it couldn't hurt to paint. both parts get very hot and are very oiled. Not sure if paint would stick to anything well enough to test it while running. Maybe I can paint the bolt head some. Once i get it back together you can feel a distinct vibration that i believe comes from the basket being hit.

My tuner is coming to the DFW Metroplex a couple times this month. He vowed to clean my tune up this upcoming thursday if I could meet him. That's my plan. The tune is 90% okay. But some cruising fuel and all WOT fueling needs to be changed, or I am going to get a tune from someone else so the bike is street-friendly. I spent too much time and money to not be able to twist the throttle and the bike behave perfectly.

My new oil pickup tube is arriving tuesday. Tuesday will be reassembly and testing day

Not sure if paint would stick to anything well enough to test it while running.

An acrylic paint should be less soluble in oil than lacquer. Maybe an epoxy paint? The camshaft sprockets have paint markings from the factory and that seems to stick.

* Last updated by: Rook on 10/5/2025 @ 10:05 AM *

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Besides a flat front tire and dying battery- the bike lives on!

I reassembled everything. New Oil pickup tube and all the previously mentioned parts scrubbed and chemically cleaned, as well as torqued. I noticed my voltages were hanging pretty low. I doubt it is the stator/rec wearing out since they are new. I am planning on going to a Lithium battery and Rick's rectifier to hopefully move past the need to replace these things as much. I am back to OEM wiring so its not like parasitic draw or anything is killing my battery. Its more than a year old and was some Duracell battery from Batteries Plus. Bought it when I was first getting the bike to run after I had just bought it.

The bike has a pretty obvious hole in the front tire. Bummer. Otherwise the bike felt very solid. Engine vibrations are minimal and it idles clean (besides a really rough start and the voltmeter going down to 10V). It certainly isnt a cold-weather bike as its only 84 degrees and it didn't like starting up. Though that may have more to do with the tune....

I am still planning on driving to XRP in Ennis, TX this Thursday from Granbury to meet with the tuner and get my tune cleaned up.

Key on, engine off- 12-12.3V
Engine Running in Nuetral- 12.2-12.8V
Engine Running in Gear above ~3K RPM- 13.5-14V

Left battery on charger for 6 hours and no improvement when battery is taken off of charger. On the charger the Voltmeter shows it is charging. Right back to 12-12.3 when you unplug the tender.

* Last updated by: danmin on 10/7/2025 @ 6:48 PM *

Key on, engine off- 12-12.3V
Engine Running in Nuetral- 12.2-12.8V
Engine Running in Gear above ~3K RPM- 13.5-14V
Left battery on charger for 6 hours and no improvement when battery is taken off of charger. On the charger the Voltmeter shows it is charging. Right back to 12-12.3 when you unplug the tender.

In bike or on charger then back in bike, those numbers sound exactly normal. I never checked the voltage of my batteries while they were on the charger but noticed it always brought them up to 14v only after I ran them in the bike a short time. Never see 14v when I turn the key. It's always 12ish and starts a stock engine just fine. As far as I can tell, what you're describing sounds completely normalin the bike and on the charger, tyey probably design them to not exceed 80% full charge. I know my Shorai charger even said that on the charger. Maybe you need something a little beefier for the turbo application.

only 84 degrees

That's one of the hotter days of summer here! If it gets into the 90s, that's a heatwave! Those are the days I trust the asphalt most though and the deer mostly stay in the woods.

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Sometimes the asphalt gets so hot here it'll melt your tires on contact. You end up with a bunch of rubber stringy goo all over your car and it really decreases tire life, as you might expect... You have a point though. Hot roads feel good on a bike.

New battery in and new tire installed. Funny to see how much space is left in the battery box with the lithium. It also only weighs 2 pounds versus 11 or so on the lead acid. I didn't want to wait for Schnitz to order a battery from manufacturer and then ship to me. Picked up an X2 battery from Batteries Plus. Battery + charger totaled $130. Also this is a non-ABS bike so with no battery installed you can see a huge chunk of the frame does a whole lot of nothing. Bike sits at 13-13.2V now when key-on engine off. I need to set up relays to power my AFR Gauge and water pump. They both power on at key-on. Definitely not helping the starting situation. I am thinking I will tap my headlights to trigger a relay for power, since those only power on after the bike has started/attempted to start.

My old tire had worn a little more than I realized. Got the same tire as last time. Some Dunlop SportMax or something. $135 installed and balanced after tax. The battery pic also shows off the new injectors nicely. Supposed to meet the tuner soon. Hopefully the bike rides and runs right afterwards.

Also this is a non-ABS bike so with no battery installed you can see a huge chunk of the frame does a whole lot of nothing.

You can put something cool in there. I was thinking a small nitrous bottle for my Gen1.

I'd like to delete the ABS on my 2024. I'm not against having it. I believe it'll stop you faster in an emergency but if you ride a lot and really know the bike, you can do a little better without ABS. If you simply ride too fast to make a corner, ABS isn't going to save you. It's best for poor riding conditions which I avoid. It's gotta add a couple pounds to the bike. Great for touring but not something I feel I need for my riding.

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A little nitrous bottle in there would be pretty sweet. just hard to refill and work the valve on it. unless you rigged up some kind of remote filling and valve

Top: My bike being flashed in the pits
Bottom: I believe Chris Boomstune's personal bike

* Last updated by: danmin on 10/10/2025 @ 10:41 AM *

Met Chris Boomstune at XRP in Ferris, TX yesterday. Coordinating when/where to meet was more time-consuming than expected. I also didn't expect the need to pay $70 to get into the pits so he could tune my bike... He did 5-6 revisions on the tune. He plugged in a woolich data logger and AFR setup to my bike and had me take a few drives. The bike isn't perfect still. It is a lot better than before, just not perfect. Still pops and bogs for a second before taking off when you open up the throttle. He did make changes to the tune everywhere though. From the moment he plugged everything in and me taking a 100 yard lap around the pits to verify the data logger was recording- he admitted that the tune was far too rich. At the end of the night, I know for a fact it wasn't for a lack of trying that the bike is how it is.

We talked about MaxxEcu. Chris Boomstune explained the Stock ECU isn't as capable as the Maxx and struggles to control my injectors at their size. I also talked to Greg Smith, owner of Boost By Smith. Greg hooked me up with a discount for a Plug-and-play MaxxEcu and walked me through all the questions I had, then Boomstune confirmed my parts list on the Maxx. It is ordered.

I'm going to install it once it's too cold to ride. I'm also wanting to replace or fully strip and redo my existing harness. For the time being- the bike will be enough to ride.

I am really needing a rear tire. My current tire is extremely hard. Good for mileage but bad for turbos. HA! I think I'll grab a cheap Shinko. $130 and the lifespan of that tire versus something 2x the price is probably negligible.

A little nitrous bottle in there would be pretty sweet. just hard to refill and work the valve on it. unless you rigged up some kind of remote filling and valve

I wouldn't mind pulling the battery to fill it but yeah, never thought about how I'd open the valve. A lot of extra equipment for a small bottle wouldn't be worth it. I'll have to think of something else cool to do with that space.

I also talked to Greg Smith, owner of Boost By Smith. Greg hooked me up with a discount for a Plug-and-play MaxxEcu and walked me through all the questions I had, then Boomstune confirmed my parts list on the Maxx. It is ordered.

I bought ECU Editor for my Hayabusa from Greg Smith. Never actually got around to messing around with it. I'm curious what new discoveries you'll make with the MaxxECU. I might go straight to that with my turbo bike.

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I just shoved a quickshifter into the space. all the wires and the "brain" still tons of room in there. maybe An air compressor could fit in there... hmmm

I'm hoping to take the bike out tonight or this weekend to demo the new tune and new engine assembly. I'll be finished moving in about 2 weeks. Might not ride it a lot before then.

Why the rear brake deleted on a street bike? I see passenger pegs still in place...

I had a friend come over, who helped build the bike, and insisted on reinstalling the rear pegs. Still haven't taken anyone on the back of it.

Rear brake was removed because it kept getting air in the line somehow. I bled it to perfection and a month later it was full of air again. No leaks, maybe MC? I just removed it since it also makes removing and installing the rear wheel a headache. Its not like it was seeing much use or being very effective anyways. It is nice to have a rear brake on the street and I still have all the parts to install it again. Still running both fronts with EBC's, coremoto lines, and good brake fluid. My rotors are pretty warped though, hard to pick a set. I did get a set of Galfers... for the wrong bike

I always planned on running a rear brake. Just hate dealing with the alignment and install process. If my fronts get ironed out and I like how it feels, I might not run a rear. We'll see. 99% of my real braking comes from the front. I usually only use the rear for a very sudden stop. I used to use the front and rear with about a 80/20 split, but I started changing my riding style because my rear brake would make my wheel super dusty and gross before a bike meet, usually right after I spent an hour or two cleaning the bike too. I just keep a lot of space in front of me when I take the bike out. I know 5th gear goes to about 180mph... Verified it a couple times last night. Just not around anybody or any turns.

I do need an air-shifter or something on here. The lockup is kicking my butt when I ride hard. Can't pull the clutch in or anything at those RPMs. Have to unload the engine a little before the lockup lets me hit the quickshifter or hand-shift. I tried the quickshifter at 120+ms kill and everything... Maybe I'm just not forcing the shifter hard enough, but I am not going to test that theory.

Wringing out 3rd,4th,5th is still plenty of speed. But it would be nice to be able to shift into the next gear while making power.

* Last updated by: danmin on 10/11/2025 @ 10:54 AM *

I do need an air-shifter or something on here. The lockup is kicking my butt when I ride hard. Can't pull the clutch in or anything at those RPMs.

Maybe I'm getting my wires crossed but I could swear I remember you saying you got a great deal on a Pingel electric shifter in just the last couple days. I was trying to run my foot quickshifter at 60 mls. It often missed at high rpm. If I recall, 90 mls felt jerky and I can shift smoothly with the clutch in 90 mls so why bother with a quickshifter? If your lockup clutch is making it hard to pull the clutch lever, you need something to shift. I remember Romans used a shifter and he made it fully automatic with the use of some other small electronic device.

Maybe I'm just not forcing the shifter hard enough, but I am not going to test that theory.

I think what will happen is you'll stick in false Neutral if the shift isn't completed. DO NOT try to shift back down and start over. Just shift up again using the clutch. You can't loose if you just roll to a stop and get the bike back in first gear. That's what I'd do. Yep, the gear dogs will chip if you put it in the previous gear at that speed unless you know how to match your gear/rpm/wheel speed pretty close. Personally, I would be leary about shifting up after coasting in false neutral a few seconds but I'm told that should be ok. I busted my gear dogs off a couple times with the quickshifter. It shifted fine with the clutch but the heavy load, high rpm quickshifts actually became dangerous. It no longer stuck in false Neutral, it kicked back down to the previous gear on its own and that was at WOT bouncing the rev limiter.

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Unfortunately no Pingel electric shifter for me. I can't justify the price just yet. Looks like someone else got it. I am getting an air compressor kit from BoostBySmith.com. Supposed to plug right into the factory harness. Just need to buy a shift ram and solenoid. I saw Schnitz Racing has a new shift ram unit with a different style air solenoid. Looks serviceable and apparently performs better. I had issues with the standard solenoid. Moisture and too high pressure would always kill the seals or something and so they leaked like crazy.

Take a look at this front sprocket cover. Looks kinda neat. I haven't seen or heard of a single bike running this though. Idea seems solid. But I am not sure if it is needed.

Air Shifter:
https://store.schnitzracing.com/rsr-direct-shift-air-cylinder-assembly/

Weird Front Sprocket Cover:
https://www.agmotorsports.net/product-page/zx14-billet-case-savers-with-bearing-support

I've been using that Schnitz air ram for a few years now. I use Co2 for the pressure source and regulate it between 100-120 psi and it's been flawless. The Busa right from the start had issues with the output shaft twisting and sheering off. That cover looks like a version of the original cure before they developed the billet output shafts available now for the Busa. It's a good idea in my opinion though I hadn't heard of any 14 failures.

Glad to hear you use that shifter ram. I was starting to lean away from it since I couldn't find any forum post or review of it anywhere.

Yeah I know the Busa and GSXR-1000 have issues with output shafts. I guess this cant hurt, but I don't feel like shelling out $650 for it if plenty others are making 500hp +/-, without issue.

Weird Front Sprocket Cover:
https://www.agmotorsports.net/product-page/zx14-billet-case-savers-with-bearing-support

That is a weird sprocket cover. There's some little bells going off in my memory bank about output shaft flexion. Do your homework on that one.

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The other thing you have to consider as I am it may be a good investment. Not only does it support the output shaft it protects the cases from being destroyed by a chain failure which can happen if the chain wads up. I have always run a billet cover on my Busas without the shaft support. I see they also offer that version without the shaft support for $450

That is true. More insurance never hurt anything, besides my wallet... My only hold-up is that I see all kinds of extreme horsepower bikes (500+hp turbo bikes) and extreme torque bikes (nitrous drag bikes) but none have had this. So it must not be necessary on this platform. But like you said- it may be a good investment in the event the chain snaps or there is some kind of output shaft flex.

Now that Fordtech mentioned it, I believe it was concerning the Hayabusa that I had done some reading on output shaft support. That was probably over seven years ago.

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https://youtube.com/shorts/HxR3OplyhQA?si=YtFNhVWpKIuHK4Ez

Incredibly cool. I shared on FB. Dammit man, you even have girls behind you! GIRLS!

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