haha, yeah funny how every time I kind of wince a little bit
going into first, sometimes I pedal it like a scooter
if the there's any kind of slope, to 4 to 5 mph
(easier said than done :smi) really softens it up.
I really like the high idle, I think you mentioned
below 900 rpm it will just stall, well someone
mentioned it.... I can start out idling out and
it almost seems that the ECU helps out a little
when if feels the load coming on when starting out,
especially when it's cool in the am.
----
What do you think the 'lugging' threshold might be,
for just cruising down the hwy at 45 in 5th or even
6th, is 2500 way too low, 3000 too low. This would
be flat, level road with no wind resistance , just
a ballpark.
When I'm at about 3k I'm showing 47 to 50+ mph
in 6th and pretty close to that in 5th, pretty amazing
mpg if I'm not putting undue pressure on the crank.
---
Installed shorty levers today , will try them tomorrow,
the look so much better and I like to use 2 fingers
clutch and one finger brake when possible, this way
I can have more fingers wrapped around the bar.

I really like the high idle, I think you mentioned
below 900 rpm it will just stall, well someone
mentioned it....

What do you think the 'lugging' threshold might be,
for just cruising down the hwy at 45 in 5th or even
6th, is 2500 way too low, 3000 too low. This would
be flat, level road with no wind resistance , just
a ballpark.

How low of an rpm is healthy and how low is possible are interesting questions. When I was AFR tuning my Gen2, I got it to accelerate smoothly at WOT from 2000 rpm in 6th gear. I don't see much reason to run the engine at that low of an rpm at WOT but it's possible. Kaw might neglect refining the fueling that low for a reason, they don't want you to run the bike like that.

My opinion, 2500 ok but not optimum. 3000 to 6000 best for engine life and more than enough power for any normal street riding. 6000 to redline, you need to do it occasionally and the bike was made to do it.

Installed shorty levers today , will try them tomorrow,
the look so much better and I like to use 2 fingers
clutch and one finger brake when possible, this way
I can have more fingers wrapped around the bar.

I like shorties too. They look cool. You can't beat the stock levers for weight but aftermarkets add a touch of style. I think I'll go with ASV this time. I always loved Pazzo levers but I don't see them for sale anymore. I still see plenty of Pazzo knockoffs from Asia.

I'm headed out the door now to try my new shorty levers,
it will be interesting......
Thanks for the other info, shall return in a couple/few hours...

* Last updated by: Stratovarious on 10/25/2025 @ 6:12 AM *

Thanks for helping me sort some of
these issues out, I'll repeat some of
my reply here in the other posts for
future readers that might stumble upon
the same similar issues.....

Short levers, yea brah, winners, at first
though, I was a bit spooked looking for
the front brake ,ackkk.... where is it??
So I'm staring to get used to it now,
they're really made well, but could stand
to be a tad longer, as mated with
the 10'' grips (including the bar weights)
they should be a bit further 'out'.
Good though, super quality at a very 'friendly' price.
------
NIGHTMARE is gone, the (burning oil) smoke is gone,
the bike is my best friend again lol..
I think its likely that the time it spent
on it's right side, almost a full minute
(long enough for me to finish swearing)
had something to do with oil getting somewhere
where it shouldn't be.
----
Shifting;
I spent a good amount of time this am shifting
from 1st to 2nd, briskly on a back road seems
to have paid off.
I'm finding a shift-point for getting into 2nd
and 3 of about3600-3700 rpm, a suitable opportunity
to get into those gears smoothly, where the 'emissions'
program, having time to abruptly drop-out the throttle.
I can get fairly quick and smooth enough shits.
I'll keep working on it for a couple more days.
Downshits; Definitely not happy with them, but
not as big a deal as upshifts.

I can get fairly quick and smooth enough shits.

Downshits; Definitely not happy with them

quick and smooth is the best way to shit whether it's a downshit or an upshit.

''quick and smooth is the best way to shit whether it's a downshit or an upshit.''

Excellent point!

My chain easily pushes up to the bottom of the swingarm
when on side-stand. This is probably way too loose?
Since the book tells me to find the tightest segment
meaning it needs to be on the paddoc-stand to do so,
is 1 to 1.2'' chain-play measured underneath the swingarm
still a valid speck if I keep it on the paddock stand?

EDIT; Am I better off ordering the shallow 32mm for my
rear axle nut for better torque-action fit, or should
I go with the deep socket?

* Last updated by: Stratovarious on 10/28/2025 @ 11:24 AM *

I find I can miss-shifts with a tight or spec chain adjustment.
I shift without the clutch lever. I do use the clutch from 1st to 2nd, but the rest no. Downshifts no lever as well.

Right Hub,
I can do the same, (miss shift or shift well regardless
of chain issues)
I'm not equating chain issues
with shift issues right now, just addressing all the things
I'm looking into with my bike.
On the shift issue though, yeah I find that no clutch
upshifts are nice leaving 2nd, I don't do it much
on this bike yet, cause I'm so focused on getting around
the shtyy throttle cuts that make clutch shifting
period an issue with me.
When you're going up through the gears here, it sounds
great, are you just jamming as quickly as you
can into each gear, once you reach your desired torque,
not worrying about the dogbones,
jamming into each gear doesn't really
cause any excessive wear to them?
It's gotten really windy here all of a sudden but
I want to try this, without thinking about the
what I might be doing to the dogbones, I may
go out and try it.
I also am going to try to do a throttle reset right now
as well, I saw a Conquers video fix, it might not be
fix the throttle drop out issue I have but, I'll try it
anyway, can't hurt.

* Last updated by: Stratovarious on 10/28/2025 @ 11:18 AM *

I'm ordering a 32mm socket right now,
so I can adjust my chain.
I just looked at he guide marks,
the left side is about 1/8th mark forward
compared to the right side,
which way should my bike be veering off to
like this, barring any other issues,
cause it does tend to veer in one
direction.

My chain easily pushes up to the bottom of the swingarm
when on side-stand. This is probably way too loose?

No, that's normal for a properly adjusted chain. I can't understand why Kawasaki diagram shows the chain slack measured on one run, it's not possible to do in real life.

Pull on the bottom run, measure. Push on the top run, measure. Add both together for total chain slack. It's probably necessary to remove the chain guard if you're going to push the top run up. Chain guard deletion is one of the first things I do to a new bike so I don't have to deal with it.

https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=6AE7FFEE-D56B-84E2-15072A3BDDB69729

Since the book tells me to find the tightest segment
meaning it needs to be on the paddoc-stand to do so,
is 1 to 1.2'' chain-play measured underneath the swingarm
still a valid speck if I keep it on the paddock stand?

You might not detect any pronounced tight spot in the chain but you should check for it in case the current sprockets create that situation. Yes, a rear stand is the only practical way to search for a tight spot in the chain if you have one.

If you own a Gen1, the spec is 1.3"~1.5" I would shoot for 1.5"

You can look for a tight spot in the chain with the bike on the rear stand but in my experience, it's not possible to measure the slack accurately unless both tires are resting on a flat surface. Lifting the rear off the ground seems to compress the rear suspension more than when both wheels are on the ground on the side stand. The bike's weight is also pressing straight down instead of at an angle. You're likely to have a quarter inch more slack with the bike on the rear stand than you will have with it parked on a flat surface on the side stand. Some people have disagreed with me on this but I've noticed this phenomenon repeatedly with both my Hayabusa and my ZX-14. Refer to the 12th comment below my tutorial. ...so if you adjust the chain slack with the bike on the paddock stand, go for 1.75" slack. I predict it will be 1.5" when you put it on the side stand.

Am I better off ordering the shallow 32mm for my
rear axle nut for better torque-action fit, or should
I go with the deep socket?

I only remember using a deep well for axle nuts. If a shallow is deep enough to accept the depth of the nut and whatever amount of axle that's protruding, that would probably be better for keeping the socket on the flats of the nut squarely. I've never had a problem using a deep well though, just be careful to put the socket on all the way to the bottom of the flats and test it to make sure it is on the nut square and not tilted before you wrench.

I would suggest using an impact socket. A 32mm is a pretty big socket but regular sockets can split on highly torqued fasteners. It's happened to me at least once....not on the axle nut but smaller ones. That axle nut is one of the tighter fasteners I've dealt with on the bike. Be extremely careful you don't tip the bike over while wrenching. You'll need to turn hard but apply increasing pressure very gradually. If the bike tilts, release pressure immediately.

I just looked at he guide marks,
the left side is about 1/8th mark forward
compared to the right side,
which way should my bike be veering off to
like this, barring any other issues,
cause it does tend to veer in one
direction.

I'd say if your rear axle is turning the rear wheel to the right (left side cocked forward of right) that should steer you to the left if it's doing anything at all. Same principle as the front wheel steering-- steer to the right, bike goes left, steer to the left, bike goes right.

Some people have claimed the swing arm marks aren't accurate. I've always relied on them. There are special tools to inspect axle alignment but the swing arm marks have never failed me. In my opinion, the axle adjuster should be set at the same position on both sides. I have threaded the adjuster bolts all the way in on both sides and then threaded each out the same number of rotations to ensure both are the same length. Then when you adjust the chain, you know one flat is equal to one sixth of a turn on the left and you do the same on the right. The axle maintains alignment throughout the life of the chain as long as you always adjust the same amount on both sides. Use a sharpie to mark the outer flat on both sides. ....just remember that turning counterclockwise on the right, the flat turns upward and counterclockwise on the left, the flat turns downward.

* Last updated by: Rook on 10/28/2025 @ 3:44 PM *

Thanks, and excellent tutorial (your linked chain tension tutorial).
-
The 'castle nut' looks to be part of the
32mm nut, if so, how do we get 93.7 lb ft
torque spec without twisting off the cotter pin?
--
Veering off to one side;
Yeah, not sure on this, if standing up on the
pegs, no hands (20mph, parking lot for eg),
I need to lean to the left to keep bike from
veering to the right, I wasn't sure since
the front wheel is free 'turn', that maybe it would
do something else depending on the physics/geometry.
My 32mm impact socket (long) should be here
friday, I'll adjust my chain tension then
and see if anything changed.
--
'Veering' Recap for readers; My left side axle block is
slightly forward by about an 1/8''
as compared with the corresponding block on
the right side, so rear tire is possibly
out of alignment, oriented slightly to the right
and causing the bike to just slightly want
to veer right, as it seems that on flat
surfaces, If I'm standing on the pegs
I need to lean left to keep from veering right.
--
The chain is the tightest when the shock is
bottomed out, when the wheel is jammed up
under the seat? So if the bike went over
a small jump and the wheel extends downward
to its lowest point while airborne, is this
also more or less equally the same 'tightest' point?
Hence the middle point of travel would be
roughly the point where there is the most-slack,
and sitting on the side stand should be
close to that point of 'most-slack'.
--
I lowered my bike 1.25''-1.5'', not sure the exact
distance, it hadn't occurred to me until just now
that I might need to adjust the 'book' spec
of 1'' - 1.2 (or even 1.5'' according to your findings)
to something else?
I believe the lowering link is compressing my
shock, and pushing the wheel up a bit...
So, maybe my spec should read or show a little
tighter, when measured on the side stand,
1''?

* Last updated by: Stratovarious on 10/29/2025 @ 3:51 AM *

The 'castle nut' looks to be part of the
32mm nut, if so, how do we get 93.7 lb ft
torque spec without twisting off the cotter pin?

You must remove the cotter pin. Unbend it and straighten it as much as possible with a pliers. Don't try to pull it out, you'll strike the exhaust or frame with the pliers when the cotter pin comes out or if the pliers slip off. After straightening the cotter pin, grab the head with a needle node pliers and tap on the pliers with a hammer or something. The cotter pin will pull through the holes after a few light taps and there will be no sudden release of tension that will cause accidents.

Get a good torque wrench to make the 93 ft lbs. You don't need to spend a hundred or more dollars, but don't get a cheapie. I bought an inexpensive torque wrench calibration tool and it also turns any tool with a square drive into a very accurate torque wrench. A 30" breaker bar works well to loosen the axle nut in a controlled manner. Don't try to use a wrench with a normal 8 to 10" handle, you will not have enough control.

Not saying you should under-torque this important fastener but, I had aftermarket wheels that required about 32 ft lb on the axle nut. I never used a cotter pin. The axle never moved and I did wheelies on occasion. The adjuster bolts hold the axle back, the chain holds the axle forward. The nut is there to prevent the axle from sliding out but if it's torqued a bit less than spec, you should have no problem. 93 ft lb is a failsafe and the swingarm legs need a certain amount of compression so they are drawn in fully against the wheel spacers. Adequate compression of the swing arm also effects the chain tension -- the swing arm legs compress, the wheelbase increases ever so slightly. This also amounts to about a quarter inch of chain slack taken up.

The chain is the tightest when the shock is
bottomed out, when the wheel is jammed up
under the seat? So if the bike went over
a small jump and the wheel extends downward
to its lowest point while airborne, is this
also more or less equally the same 'tightest' point?

The chain is at its maximum tension when the rear shock is bottomed out (fully compressed, no more travel remaining).

The chain gets looser as the rear shock extends. If your rear shock is at maximum extension (I guess you'd say it "topped out"), the chain is at its loosest. If you ever are on the brake so hard the rear tire lifts up, the rear shock extends fully. You will probably also hear the chain lashing against the swing arm because the chain is so loose with the swing arm at maximum extension permitted by the rear shock travel.

You are probably correct that the chain is at about medium tension when it sits on its side stand with only the bike's weight on the suspension. The chain can only get looser as weight is taken off the rear wheel...until the shock reaches its full extension.

it hadn't occurred to me until just now
that I might need to adjust the 'book' spec
of 1'' - 1.2 (or even 1.5'' according to your findings)
to something else?

The chain slack spec for the Gen1 is 1.3" ~ 1.5"

My 2012 ZX-14R (Gen2) service manual says, 1 inch to 1.2 inches.

Sorry, I thought you had the Gen1. Haven't adjusted the chain on the Gen2 yet so I can't comment but still encourage you to go on the loose side. You don't want too tight. If you overtighten a little, the chain will loosen itself by stretching after very little use. This can be hard on the output shaft bearings if the excessive chain tension is severe. Obviously it wears the chain and sprockets too.

I believe the lowering link is compressing my
shock, and pushing the wheel up a bit...
So, maybe my spec should read or show a little
tighter, when measured on the side stand,
1''?

A lowering link is longer than stock links. It should tilt the back of the swing arm up a bit compared to stock and the rear wheel goes up with it to produce a lower riding height. Seems to me, if the rear wheel goes up, this is the same action as putting weight on the rear suspension. Yeah, I'd say the lowering links probably are compressing the rear shock more than just the weight of the bike. I think you just stiffened your rear shock, it's "preloaded". So what happens if you sit on the preloaded rear shock? It compresses but less than it would if it were not preloaded. Sit on the bike and the rear shock will travel less than it would with stock links. Some of that travel is already taken up by the lowering links. True, if your rear suspension compressed enough to lower the tail one inch with stock links, that would tighten the chain slack. I don't know how much you should reduce the specced chain slack to compensate for the fact that the rear shock is preloaded. I would try 1" chain slack and see how that goes. If the chain stretches, you know 1" slack is too tight. If the chain slaps around or the final drive feels jerky, you know 1" slack is too loose.

Thanks.

Sure, no problem.

Oh, since it's a Gen2 you own, you probably can get a new lower fairing in your exact color.

Good idea, I hadn't thought of that,
both sides are cracked inward, I thought
I might take a heat gun and try to push
the pieces back together. :shrugs:
The bike came to me with one side
having been in a slow lowside, and then
I dropped it on the same side after I
installed frame savers, doing parking lot
drills, then the right side when I had
the scary oil burn incident.

There are plastic welding kits available online. I never tried one. Epoxy won't work for fairings. It vibrates loose in no time. I've heard PVC pipe glue suggested. Think I'd try the welder but the best solution and easieast is new lowers. Unfortunately, that's going to be expensive.

I found a video a few months back about welding or
actually bonding damaged fairings using
ABS since apparently that is what they are made of,
some people were using fiberglass and epoxies, but
they eventually fail since there is no 'real' bonding
taking place.
I think it might have been Scott with Gold Wing Docs
that did the video.
I just looked on ebay, 'lower fairings zx14r' ,
from as low as about 100 to 300 something bucks,
gloss black, so that's not bad, especially
the $111 set, carbon fiber, not that I care
whether that or ABS.
I got my 32mm socket today may adjust in the am.
What I was wondering regarding the Castle nut,
was , if we're to go with 93.7 lb ft or whatever,
how can we possibly meet that speck if we have
to back off or advance the nut in order to accomodate
the slots for the cotter pin..... :shrugs:
I don't think there'd be a fail though whether it's
85 or 100 ft lbs, I now for a fact that 10's of
thousands of riders don't even know what
a torque wrench is, and I assume a lot of them
are still around.

:smi

I just looked on ebay, 'lower fairings zx14r' ,
from as low as about 100 to 300 something bucks,
gloss black, so that's not bad, especially
the $111 set, carbon fiber, not that I care
whether that or ABS.

The CF ones are nice. I just had a peek at Ebay. I'd be a little careful with inexpensive CF fairings. They might not fit well and any aftermarket fairings are extremely sus if you're going to go fast. I've heard a number of stories of cheap aftermarket fairings flying off at speed. I knew a guy who had that happen twice.

Bestem is the gold standard for CF fairings. They're not cheap. I saw them on Ebay. $350 and I don't know if that was for a single side or a set of two.

I'd look up the price of a brand new set at a Kawasaki parts supplier online. Prepare yourself, I replaced the RH grills on my 2024 and it was almost $300. I bought the fairing through the dealership I bought the bike from.

I'd keep my eyes peeled for any color used OEM lower fairing on Ebay. Get them painted someday. Ebay is good about showing damage because they pretty much have to accept damaged stuff back if rejected. Paint scrapes and scratches is okay. Avoid any used fairings with cracks and missing tabs.

I got my 32mm socket today may adjust in the am.
What I was wondering regarding the Castle nut,
was , if we're to go with 93.7 lb ft or whatever,
how can we possibly meet that speck if we have
to back off or advance the nut in order to accomodate
the slots for the cotter pin..... :shrugs:

LOL well, I said I never used a cotter pin at all. It's not a bad idea if you do. I remember having to line the slots on the nut to the holes in the axle. I would loosen the nut achieve this but I wouldn't tighten it. The book says to torque the nut. If the slots and holes don't align, tighten to the next alignment, then loosed and re-torque. ...that's going to put you back to where you were with the slots and holes not aligned, isn't it? I'd probably go with looser or maybe just a bit tighter if it's real close to aligning. You'll see, this nut is tough to crack. I never liked over-torquing it because I'd eventually have to loosen it the next time I adjusted the chain in 600 miles. It was no problem with the Carrazzeria wheels because the torque spec was only 32 ft lb. With OEM wheels, I guess I'd go close to spec but I think 80 ft lb would be as good as 93.7. Go ahead and try the book method but IDT it works very well.

This topic has come up many times but never any reports of damage or failure if the axle nut is tightened as close to spec as possible within a range where the cotter pin will fit. That nut's not coming loose with the cotter pin in there.